Tray

What will you be doing in NYC? I haven't been up much since my sister moved to Kansas City with my niece.

I found mounting the shoulder bells a little more forward on the shoulder strap make them sit forward better without rolling back like they are in your photos.

It is looking great Barry. As pointed out though, you mounted the tube stripes on backwards.

Looking sweet Peter. Excellent work on the helmet.

Looks good so far. I would clean up the frown paint as well. The flat area of the teeth should be completely painted to the edge. I used electrical tape when I masked off the frown. It allowed for more give and shape the frown area better.

You are right Mathias. That's why I posted that it is very similar to the AP. IF you want different than what you already have I suppose TM or CFO would be your only other options.

$235 isn't a bad price for a fully assembled helmet. Because you don't know the origins I would hold off. Most helmets kits are about that much to you anyway but you would still have to assemble it. They would have a much better detail in the pull also. The helmet you posted looks to be a pretty soft pull. Usually happens with recasts.

I sell and wear the T/MC and love everything about it. What are your concerns? There are a few members that have build threads going and even more that wear it who didn't do a build thread here. It is very similar to the AP kit you already have.

Nice. Jason Romanoff used a can of soup when he was reshaping the forearms to be more rounded. He used the heat gun and put the can into it until it slipped through no problem. He said he went very slowly to not overheat it but worked out well. You have a nice start going Barry. Keep it up.

I used Dupli-Color rubberized undercoating for mine. I did mine exactly like Tsalagi did his. I trimmed and assembled my helmet, took it apart and then taped around the eyes a little to give a place for the hot glue to adhere to and also masked off the frown area as well. It works perfectly. Afterwards I used some headliner material to cover the frown except where the cutouts are. It looks very nice inside. The reason I did all of this is because it is embarrassing when I let people look at my helmet and it looked like crap inside. When it is finished it just looks better.

mask it off and paint it, and then weather it.

You just need a rivet deep enough to go through the 2 layers of the plastic. It honestly doesn't matter what material they are made of. They just hold the helmet together and are hidden under the ear anyway so you'll never see them.

Thanks Tony. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving with their family and friends.

belt corners are better. I did mine at 1/2" 45º angles as well. The thigh belt looks good now too. Excellent work Dan.

all I know is 12V fans are loud as heck inside the helmet. I use 12V fans with 9V battery and it is just quiet enough I can hear well.

I used chicago screws to mount my holster to the belt. They look great when on and it also allows me to remove the holster for those events I do not bring my blaster. --------- The screw head side goes on the inside so you see the riveted look on the outside. ---------

I don't either.

Sorry I missed the start of your build. Sounds like things are going great so far. I still love my kit like I got it yesterday. Hope you all love it as much as I do. Looking forward to seeing the completed suits.

I would never cut my cod no matter how comfortable it might make it. I've seen to many that flop around or don't sit right and it just looks silly. I just accept the fact I cannot sit down well so I just don't bother. Tough it out I say. Is being able to sit so important while on break? Sure, that's why I take it off if I take a break more than a couple of minutes. It takes me 2 minutes to put my kit back on so cutting it and essentially ruining the armor is so not worth it to me.

I also believe having just one costume that doesn't match all the others isn't enough to warrant it's approval. Movie companies sometimes don't pay attention and use the wrong parts. We as a costuming group must show consistency. Like the helmet without tube stripes. It's just a screw up on the movie production company. It isn't some special version of the Stormtrooper so shouldn't be accepted.

I used a washer. I pushed from the inside out so the plastic was touching the base of the mic tips. With a washer and nut it holds pretty well and have never had any problems with the helmet or mic tips cracking.

Mine are little more than 1/2" total. My boxes are 1/2" each and when put together the inside sticks out a little making it the slightly deeper.

Looks awesome. On your greaves. The right greave looks to be sitting lower on your leg than the left one. You can see it from the photo. The right one is down to the edge of the picture where the left one I can see the bottom of the greave as if it is sitting higher above the ankle.

I don't think there is any one right neckseal. Basically what you need is something that covers your neck. They should all work for any of them if I am not mistaken. Maybe one of the EIB or Centurion members can chim ein if they had to buy a specific one to get approved.

I have 2 fans in my helmet. I usually use one of them but sometimes if it is too hot I turn both on. It also lets me extend the time I can troop using one then as it dies I can turn the second one on. I have never put stuff on my lenses so I can't answer for those.