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Like Chris says, the cost in material isn't that much. It's the molds that are extremely pricey. But we're talking about injection molds, so most likely two part molds that are CNC cut from aluminum. I also guess that all the stuff and equipment required to inject the resin is costing a lot too, so unless you're doing that as a bussiness and already have the tools, the set up cost for a propmaker would be far too much. However a regular mold would probably work fine too, you would only lose the inside details. But the issue with resin is that the more flexible it gets, the thicker (gooey) it gets too and the faster it kicks (start to harden) which makes it more difficult to work with. Because of that short lifespan it's more difficult to cast large parts, but also to obtain something that has a somewhat even thickness, and free of air bubbles. In this case the best way for us (one that doesn't involve a crazy amount of money) is to project it with a spraygun. But if you look at what MIMIC has done with his armors this is pretty much it (I'm not here to debate his reliability or else, I know he can't be trusted anymore). Flexible gelcoat on the outside for the shine and smoothness, and fiberglass to back it (done with a flexible resin of course) and you get something that is extremely close. Even what Jimmiroquai is doing is not bad. I only wish he'd spend the time perfecting his surfaces before molding.

The stuff is already outthere you know. There are countless of different kinds of resin available to buy, even if you're a particular. Some are rigid, but others are flexible (it's called shore index). In the end it comes down to the makers to research and use a correct PU resin. The only difference with screen-used parts is that they're injected instead of rotocast, or poured like most of our stuff is made. It allows details to be added to the inside of the parts and also insures an even thickness everywhere. But that's pretty much all. And in the end you can also replicate an injected part by making a two parts mold (one that captures both the outside and inside of your piece). However it costs twice the price of a regular mold, and it gets more challenging to assure that your resin is going to fill every part of your mold because as you're not pushing the resin (injecting) you can mostly only rely on gravity.

Very expensive and the process is complex, even more so with the Sith suits from what I understand. Most hobby enthusiast lack the resources to replicate screen suits. I also suspect customers being able to afford it would be limited.

That's one possibility, along with the manufacturing process used by the big movie houses. Extrusion molding of parts is prohibitively expensive to most, so vac forming or fiber glass molding or 3D printing is as close as we get. The ability to to use a vast array of materials , flexible and rigid is where the production costumes are at so there is a disparity from the start. Over time some of the makers have improved to get closer in design and measurements and there is certainly an abundance of reference material in screen shots and actual images of screen used armour in parts and from every angle, the rest I guess is up to the individual makers interpretation.

Yes same as any other EIB submission and you may be asked for some extra photos of details specific to that costume, ie boot stripes. Normally a blaster is required for EIB, I've checked the last couple of TKC submissions for EIB and Centurion and each has had a blaster and or a lightsaber as they are an option for TKC, but it's entirely up to the DO's.

Great news, move along, move along

The actual raw material for a single cast wouldn’t be too bad (can’t imagine there’s much more than 2 gals in one so maybe 200-300 in resin?) but the setup costs and running costs for mould up keep would be pretty outrageous. Also it assumes you have a good starting point to mould from, and you’d want to keep it around as moulds expire and need replacing. Maybe you you could replicate the injection process with syringes but the volumes would probably be a bit large for that. Really you need someone who knows what they are doing so you don’t waste money on badly designed moulds, short life moulds and poor castings. Material choice could be made with a few small scale tests before buying a bigger batch of something.

That’s a great feeling to be done trimming for sure. Have you given consideration to the level of accuracy you’re shooting for with your build?

Finally coming together!

Let's see some photos. The FISD is about sharing information. You say you have a kit or at minimal the material it's made from please post a photo with you holding it. That's not too much to ask is it?

Thank you. I have updated the post with new suggested photos.

No not at all, it’s what FISD is all about mate, we love photos, come on, I thought you would know that!! Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s just the reaction of doubters and naysayers [emoji1787] Next time you come down to Sydney Andrew I’ll happily show you first hand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cheers for the feedback, I've took the extra close ups asked for. Happy t9 take more if asked Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Welcome, Austin, and you are doing the exact thing I always recommend, which is asking questions! Although this site can appear a bit overwhelming with all the info available we are here to help guide you through. The link Mario gave you is where you will find many of the answers you need, but always feel free to ask if there is something you can't find. When considering an armorer, the ones in the "vetted" section are tried and true: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Note that depending on your body shape/size, some armorers have variations for taller/larger troopers. It's also important to know who NOT to buy from: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/ Again, we are always available for any advice you need so don't be shy about asking!!

I've been approved in both versions up to L3, one is cut out completely, the other the same with a black backing and the last other one is recessed and painted black. Here is the movie TLJ helmet which was up for auction not so long ago, looks completely cut through to me. Just note keep an eye on the CRL's because they are due for an update and could be very soon.

Awesome! Great job so far

Haha Im slowly getting used to the weight, ill be conditioning myself to carry it coming this convention Switching hands and putting it down like a DLT seems to work though if I get tired, nevertheless, its a beautiful addition to my HWT build, no matter the weight

No worries, thanks for giving me an update. I appreciate the feedback from Glen and Mario.

Good job there, looks a million bucks

I am signed up over there, but thought maybe someone might know that but of info. Can't seem to get logged into the Tapatalk page though. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Found the Specialist requirements but no mention of shoulder strap material https://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/3429-specialist-requirements-magma-trooper/ FWI there are 5 Specialist Magma's, the last January 2018, their build is here https://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/4032-am-20-magma-white-to-red/ and specials application here https://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/5359-tx-44701-magma-trooper-specialist-application-approved/&tab=comments#comment-76352

Yeah one thing I really love about it here at FISD is the higher activity and sounding board you get. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Looks good

Not a lot of activity or builds on some

Who is TROS ? Edit: Oh wait never mind lol my boyfriend just answered me lol ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, that’s what the leak suggests. It could easily be the new Biker [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

About 8.5 pounds

Hi Austin, Welcome to FISD. You may want to look at the following forum section. You can find so usefull info there. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/ Cheers

This must be so satisfying to build, i know it's been immensely satisfying watching it come together. Almost there Dan, remarkable work.

We don’t know for sure yet. Might be more new troopers in TRoS and/or more changes than we think to the FOTKs. If, after the movie comes out, it’s deemed that they are the same or mostly the same then we’ll probably merge the forums.

Thanks guys. I know it’s taken a while but the kit really is top notch. So much easier than a regular TK. Everything comes pre trimmed so it’s just a case of gluing it together. The Anovos instructions are awful. They say use Velcro almost everywhere like their OTTK. A bit of advice. Don’t bother with them. Make it up as you go along. In a few hours I’ve rigged the abs, cod, butt, legs and spats. Sure, there’s 2 seams to fill on the waist, and the yoke joint to fill, but my brother does car painting and said that it should be easy to paint match and feather in without painting the whole kit. The forearms aren’t great. The shape is a little wrong so I’m waiting on our GMLs input. All in all, it’s a great kit. Was I worth the wait? I’ll let you know when it’s finished. Would i pre order from Anovos again? No chance.

I've put a few WTF kits together. I went long on the outside short on the inside. Do what makes you comfortable. SHINGATE!!!!!!

Plugged it into my computer at work and the lights are on! Gonna try testing it again when I get home. Awesome, thanks for the tip! As obvious as that is, I never would have thought of it haha UPDATE: Somehow we're back up and running! It just seems that it only likes certain battery packs I have. Oh well, not the end of the world. Trooping with it for the first time tonight, so we'll see how it goes! Thanks for the help!