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Thigh system done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just had this made. Want to check with you about it before I finish it up.

More progress, all the cover strips are glued onto both arms. I saw on other build threads that people had difficulties gluing the front of the forearms due to the width of the clamp jaws, however, I have a solution that worked well: I cut 2 suitably sized pieces from an offcut of form plywood (that has a smooth, hard surface that concrete doesn't stick to, when constructing formwork for concrete buildings etc). That let me get the joint clamped correctly, and the E6000 that squeezes out on the inside, doesn't stick to it strongly...provided the surface is new and has not had wet concrete in contact with it--I found that out the hard way, and have some cleanup to do!

Great find on the rpf ,,,, this will be the start of my rotj blaster bluild

Using the 5th horsemans files, I printed the heavy blaster. Using XTC-3D filler, so far so good. Electronics on order and should be in hand within 10 weeks. Printed parts: It does a great job in filling the lines (basically it is thin epoxy) Shiny! Just use sandpaper to knock down the lumps and bumps Will still need filler primer, but this should take some time off the build

Awesome tip. Will do.

Done, all that above goes to the standard F-11D

Looking good, should be fine for basic approval, as always that is up to your GML (garrison membership liaison) If aiming for higher levels be aware of that your sides of the ab and kidney looked stepped in this image and should be level. For L3 you will need to fill the shim seams on both sides. Shim on your right side is overlapping Ear screws are protruding and should be counter sunk Using a bigger drill bit by hand you can removes some of the plastic Backplate over lapping kidney on rear To be picky the belt could come down a little at the front, L3 The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Hope to see you approved soon and submitting for higher levels, good luck

Looking good Tom!!! Welcome to the Empire. The one thing that stuck out to me was the Thermal Detonator. Your O is pointing towards noon, or maybe even a little past. The O should be more visible. The TD can also be a bit more centered on your belt. (images borrowed from @gmrhodes13 who shared the same advice with me in my own build thread. ) I literally unrolled mine a little bit to get the O at the correct rotation. Very easy to do.

Awesome and thank you for the replies. It's really keeping me motivated and working on things. Yes, I rough sand with 100 grit on both sides to help bond things. Thanks for the button clarification. I used some colors I had laying around and just now remembered I have a gloss paint I can brush on too. I'll look for a few scraps to cut and fit the back.

That should do it

This better fit for the ear screws? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like that weapon is going to turn out phenomenal! If you are anything like me, you want to see the finished product ASAP, but if I could make a suggestion it would be to let the silver dry for at least 3-4 days. I assume you are doing the silver so that you can use it as a base for the weathering, and although it may seem dry in a few hours, enamel paint needs time to cure thoroughly. Otherwise, when you remove some of the black top coat to give it that realistic appearance you will remove the silver as well, defeating the purpose. I sincerely admire your dedication to detail on this, Ben, and I can't wait to see the finished product!! This bin is going to turn out SO cool!

As Glen pointed out, the large ab button plate will need a rim, but the small plate should have zero return edge and lay flat (same thing with the small button covers). I would trim it down as seen below, and remember that the paint should not go all the way to the bottom of the actual raised part of the button. Fantastic job so far, sir. Keep up the great work!

PERFECT! Can I ask where you got the file for that? Thanks!

Personally I would take a touch off, if you compare with the reference images they stop just short of the base. Most use humbol paint so it's already glossy, as yours are flat in appearance you could go over with some gloss clear to give them a shine, would also help the acrylic paint from coming off as easily as the clear will give it a little strength. Oh and just in case you haven't should always try to rough up any areas with sandpaper before applying glue, will give the glue something to grip too Don't worry many of us made mistakes when we first started, but at least it's only a small modification for the ab plate well small to me

Thank you for the critical eye. I knew I'd fumble a few things soon enough. I hadn't done super in depth research until I had already crossed a certain threshold of progress, which points to the button thing. Looking into it today I noticed exactly what you mentioned. It's a clever idea to back it with scrap and fake it/rebuild it. I love the Level 3 mindset. Here are the buttons I painted by hand, didn't mask anything. I may need to dial the paint back a bit? Raise it further from the base? Or is that itty bitty left over at the bottom the dome okay? It's just acrylic paint so it chips off rather easy, which is also unfortunate. Do folks gloss clear coat these panels to protect the paint? Hoster: Copy that. It came with the raw straps attached and the black straps were separate, so I'll figure out how to swap them. Belt: Ah well. This got me confused going from the CRL to a detailed construction breakdown. I knew there was something behind the button covers and figured it was a permanent attachment, so just went with the glue. bummer. I'll make it work. The ends aren't attached so there's room for the rivets and the belt snaps should be in that gap next to it. I can figure out the center rivet. Truth be told, I have a 2nd belt coming in on order (I'd like to swap between ESB and ANH, so I'll get another crack at it.) Snaps on the suit to hold the belt! Wow! That's rad. I had no idea, but it makes sense. I'll see about marking this when I get to fitting. Going from casually seeing the costume to building one has it's learning curves, that's for sure. Thank you again for the guidance. While glue was drying I checked a few things off the list: Gloves and various snaps in the E-6000 queue. I did 5 inch elastic straps so it has a bit of grab when I put the gloves on. Feels good. I set the posterior and Han snap. Not pictured is the Boba thong and snaps being set on the lower cod plate. I'll have to determine the length of the 1 inch nylon tape I'd like to snap in using the existing male snaps. I've just received the split rivets and set one to the cod. I'll have to get to the torso/ab area later, but the ammo belt for the right thigh can be set and painted now. After tonights E-6000 is done setting I should be able to test fit everything minus an assortment of accessories. Hoping to be in the app process sometime in February then help a buddy build his TK since I've just stumbled through my own build, which is immensely satisfying as far as building Star Wars costumes go. Really appreciate the insight and tips on the build.

Thanks! Really appreciate the time and response

For E-11 lens and a cheap mod is use a CD for the relfective appearance and use the clear CD cover for the lens.

Thank you all! I'm feeling the love. But huge thanks to @T-Jay and @justjoseph63 . This blaster would be nothing like how it turned out without the two of you. @Scimitar is sending me his Quest Design E-11 for metal folding stock fitment. And I'll need a place to post pix. Might as well put them in here.

Thank you!!!

Looking sharp Merlin! Good luck, fingers crossed.

now the full body shots:

Updatet cod rivet:

If anybody was meant to have that MGC Sterling it's you Chris! This will be the beginning of another amazing blaster kit, and the whole entire community will benefit from that project!

Great buy! Glad you got it. Definitely in the right hands. Looking forward to seeing you make replicas of it.

Wanted to do a bunch of up close shots to show the details and the diff between mgc and the real sterling

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