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Newly approved TX. Ready to take him for a spin.

Bought this from our local Spotlight store - it has the same specs as the no fray glue and should do the trick.

Here's one masterfully finished by Paul Prentice of Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build. And yes, when finished properly, I can say with some authority, having held a screen used one, that it is the most accurate currently available and absolutely worth a purchase if your goal is a Rogue One/New Generation suit. Jimmi's is excellent as well, but Nico's is truly impressive. More photos at: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008239635269&sk=photos_by

Hi, Got clearance for my first outfit (esb tk) a week ago, and signed up for my induction troop on July 11th. I'm a 46 year old (never) grown up, living in Cambridgeshire in the UK, working for the NHS, and I've wanted to be a part of the 501st for as long as I've known about it. First got into Star Wars around the time ESB came out (was a little too young in '77), and was an avid figure collector as a kid (really wish I still had them!). Initially couldn't decide on which outfit to build, but certain things led me to the esb tk. I'm vegan, which means for me I don't wear leather or animal products, and this makes certain outfits more difficult. Managed to find some tk suitable synthetic boots (from Asos in the UK), so good to go. I'm 6'4" (193cm) and at the time was at the start of losing quite a lot of weight. Did my research and found that RWA did tk armour in XL, so that seemed a good bet. As the build went on I found that some of the parts were far too big, so swapped some parts out for standard size (back and butt), and some I managed to trim more than expected and make them fit (thighs, shins and forearms). **Best advice I can give for those that may be a bit larger in one or more directions is to speak to the armour supplier before buying. You're not bothering them, and far better to take a bit of time and order the correct stuff at the start** Mostly the build went well. Had a great UK armourer in Dan (CableGuy), and awesome help from several people here (special shout out to Joseph and Mario for help with the sniper knee). Speaking of which, had the usual headache with the sniper knee, and throughout the build I never had enough magnets or clamps. My build took about 4 months, and about halfway through I started showing symptoms of work related stress, which has ended up in needing some time off work. Working on my armour (although stressful in itself at times) has given me something to focus on while at home, and has been pretty therapeutic. Got a little bit more stress at the mo as I managed to break my thermal detonator while upgrading for EIB [emoji2357], so little bit of panic that it's got to be fixed before my induction in a months time, but I'm sure it'll be fine, right!? Rich Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Hi everyone hopefully I will be able to join. I'm going to be building my own rs self build kit, if anyone has any advice please let me know. I'll be posting my progress with pics. Any help will be much appreciated thanks

I have a tk based on the kit from RWA. All great but the canvas belt frays a lot at the edges. I've just tried this stuff (from Dunelm, UK) and, touch wood, it seems to have sorted it without discolouring or otherwise negatively affecting the canvas Here's some pics of front and back of the belt. One edge is treated, the other not. I didn't trim loose ends before applying and smoothing the 'glue'. It's comes out of the tube like white latex glue, but dries rubbery and clear. I applied a thin coat across the edge and on the back side, but none on the face (just in case), then smooth and flattened with my fingers as it started to dry.

Well I called it Congratulations trooper and welcome to the TX ranks and Spec Opps

So as I said I was working on a connecting piece to make the bond between both ends of the gun stronger. Steve was nice enough to model what I had in mind and here goes the result of his work : Some more pictures here : https://imgur.com/a/HrwKyX4 I used a long aluminium rod (well a tube + a rod, because there was no rod big enough to fit). And now I have primed the whole thing, it looks pretty crisp. It's not perfect I know, but it's a first for me so I am quite happy

Thanks a lot bud.

Congratulations David. Nice shot !

Awesome!!!!. Congratulations!!!

Technically yes. I can unscrew it if needed. Not sure if I would or not. I'm hoping it's sturdy enough I won't have to. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Thanks for your pointers, I'll be adding some more pics asap, brilliant advice as always.

Yes sir. Please note that the original diagrams included an antenna, but those are no longer allowed at any level. (Those were crazier times, lol). BUT, as mentioned in that first post we do allow some leeway, as not everyone has access to the same build materials.

I noticed during my build that after dry fitting the pieces the entire thing was a bit wobbly. I drilled out the center of all the components and added a 36 inch long 3/8" aluminum rod (Lowe's) for stability.

Found some in Big W $5 I guess they are all pretty much the same, as long as they dry clear, are flexible and don't wash off when washed then you've got it made

Nice work, a few other things you could adjust: You could glue some pieces of ABS/plastic behind your kidney, they will sit behind the ab plate and help hold your sides in, at present you can see a large opening. Shoulder straps are sitting up on the back plate, you could heat and bend so they sit flush, can't see from the images if you have elastic there but that could help if you havne't You could also add a little white to the rim of you Hovi's (mic tips) And also match the outer curves on your vocoder, the one on the right is quite a bit lower Good luck and hope to see you approved soon

Finished! I used E6000 and glued it in sections. I did a final sanding with 400 grit to smooth out some of the scuffs from the clamps I used while gluing it together. Then a final coat of paint. It still has some printer lines visible. But overall I'm very happy with it. Both front and rear sight move. And the bipod is held in place with a simple pin. It's also super light only 2.5 pounds. So it will be great for trooping. Only thing I don't know is how durable it is. It feels pretty stiff and I don't think it's going to have any problems. But being a 3d print even if it gets cracked or broken, it's nothing glue and paint can't fix. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

To be honest, even after studying the pieces on their site I find their system really confusing as well. I can see a few items that I can recognize, but most are a mystery. Another issue is that like Anovos it utilizes Velcro. In my experience, Velcro can (and will) fail over time do to extended use from opening and closing it repeatedly. The snap system takes more time, effort and money but if done properly the connections will never come loose on a troop (especially the double snap system in the photo Glen posted.. I swear by it). If you are up to making your own, I have a tutorial here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/

Had a member tell me today they ran some super glue along the edge and that did the trick for them

Imgur can be glitchy at times, but I haven't had any issues for a while now. I only use it from my desk top though so yeah it could be the phone app.

Didn't even use one full bottle. Trooped with it yesterday, and no problems. Recommended.

Ok so all I had to do was uninstall and reinstall the app now its working. In case this was happening to anyone else.

Helmet fans are a must! You’ll definitely want them for those Summer troops especially. Mine are by ukswrath and they work great. There are other makers also like Troopacoola that other troopers swear by.

That looks really good! Is the material still flexible after applying the glue? (I know it said so on the glue itself, but that doesn't always have work out like that.)