trooper96

Buckets off

Most of the long parts are broken down into sections for smaller printers. Barrel measures 7.80" [196mm] (I print horizontally) Folding stock rod measures 7.42" [188.44mm] (I print vertically) The longest part is the scope rail at 9.87" [250.69mm] (I print horizontally on my CR-10S, but I suppose it could be printed vertically)

If you are going to print an E-11, I highly recommend this one (shameless plug): Sterling SMG MK4 (L2A3) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566 and E-11 Accessories for Sterling https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3989097 There are lots of good entry level printers. Don’t spend too much unless you are absolutely sure you will continue in the hobby. Get something simple, of reasonable quality, and that has replacement parts readily available.

I recently modeled, printed, built, and finished my Rogue One E-11. Some time ago, I created a Rogue One accessory kit for my Sterling SMG model. I knew at the time that a true Rogue One E-11 was not built on a real Sterling , but an S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG (airsoft replica). I didn't have one at the time, so I created the kit to work with the model I had. It was good enough for basic approval, but not for higher levels. Not being one to leave well enough alone and move on with my life, I ordered the airsoft gun, an Evike Sterling 55 round (short) magazine, an actual Element Airsoft M300A Mini Scout Light, and an accurate replica of the required SDS power cylinders. I constructed my model using direct measurements from these items and built realistic functionality into the assembly. After much discussion with the experts here and fine tuning of the model, I give you a proper Rogue One E-11! Functional features include: Moving and resetting trigger Functional selector switch Functional folding stock Reciprocating false bolt Functional end cap latch Removable end cap Removable magazine Functional magazine catch/release Functional reset button on the Hengstler Hollow scope with clear lenses Removable barrel Provisions for mounting some electronic switches Accurate S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG replica Accurate 1943 M38 scope replica Accurate small eagle Hengstler replica Accurate SDS power cylinders replica Accurate Element Airsoft M300A Mini Scout Light replica Here are some pictures of the airsoft and flashlight I purchased. Here is the research and modeling thread. Here are some print/assembly progress photos. Here is the finished blaster. If you have a 3D printer or access to one and want this blaster, the files may be downloaded for free here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4941514 The assembly and instruction manual can be found at the link above under the "Thing Files" tab, but you can view it directly here. https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/36/7d/42/3c/c5/STAS.PDF If you want this blaster but have no way to print it, I have a few available.

Nice work, Joseph! Excellent tutorial!

They are identical.

Flat Black: Barrel shaft (step 2) Entire assembly (steps 1-6) Trigger (step 7) Trigger guard (step 7) Selector switch (step 7) Folding stock rod (step 8) Folding stock catch (step 8) Folding stock retainer (step 8 - top only) Folding stock frame (step 9) Folding stock pivot pins (step 10 - heads only) End cap assembly (step 11 - it may be easier to paint the d-ring before assembling) Charging handle (step 12) Grip pin (step 13) Magazine assembly (step 14) Hengstler assembly (step 15) Scope rail (step 18) Power cylinders (step 20) Gloss Black: Grip (step 13) Silver/Steel: Fire control group housing (step 7) Bolt (step 12) Spring (step 12) Gold/Brass (if you are weathering the scope, otherwise Flat Black): Scope main body (HLW1, step 17) Scope lens caps (HLW2 & HLW3, step 17) I accidentally discovered that clear coat is a good sandable filler. Maybe because it's thin and maybe it kind of self-levels. Not really sure why it works, but I got a really smooth finish. This is really for something that has already been made reasonably smooth but maybe still has some minor imperfections. Let it fully dry and hit it with some fine sandpaper.

The manual gives a suggested general order for paint, but I think I have a specific order of parts grouped by color somewhere. I’ll see if I can find it.

A couple of passes with a heat gun will make those strings disappear like magic. Not too much, though. PETG is very heat resistant, but it doesn’t take much to make the strings evaporate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! The sanding really is the only difficult part of this kit, and it’s not so bad. Excited to see it coming together! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can’t wait to see what you are able to do with this model. Someone just submitted one for Centurion approval, so the potential is there. Just take your time and enjoy the process. I am happy to help if you have any questions.

Congratulations! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glen is right. Things can be a little different with only slightly different placement of the ear. This trick doesn't give an absolute trim line, but does provide a guide line to start trimming. Really just takes the guesswork out of making the first cut. Here's a couple of pictures.

Looks like the scope on Han’s blaster also magically changed from a M38 to a M19. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk