Jump to content

trooper96

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Posts

    702
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

3 Followers

About trooper96

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ninety Six, SC, USA
  • Interests
    Model Aviation, Backyard Astronomy

FISD Info

  • 3D Contributor Award
    3
  • FISD Supporter
    No

Standard Info

  • Name
    Bryan
  • 501st ID
    14082
  • 501st Unit
    Carolina Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

1,863 profile views
  1. Thank you for using my model. I am honored to play a small part in your creation. It’s even more meaningful since you will be raising funds for JDRF, and as we discussed earlier, my 2 year old grandson was recently diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes. God bless you for what you do, and good luck with the auction! The blaster looks stunning!
  2. You did a great job on the printing and assembly of the blaster! Thank you for choosing my model! A little more work to remove the remaining print lines, and you'll be set. I recently found a handy tool to save my elbow and fingers some wear and tear during sanding. It's an attachment for my Dremel called a buffing wheel. I do a rough sanding first, then use the Dremel to smooth it out. If you try this, set the Dremel to the lowest speed, apply only light pressure, and keep the tool moving. Too much pressure or dwelling can delaminate the surface layers.
  3. I looked at the photos, and I m not sure what to make of it. The trigger group looks like a C1, but the grip doesn’t. It’s a little like the E-22, not a Sterling but not an L2A1 AEG either.
  4. Wow, I really need a resin printer now! Incredible details that FDM can’t resolve. Nicely done!
  5. Thanks! I am both honored and humbled by your kind acknowledgment.
  6. If you're looking for a screen accurate Rogue One E-11 replica, I have one kit left (see link below). If you're looking for an actual airsoft Sterling L2A1 (pictures are also in the link below), I have that, too. I also have an actual M300A flashlight and metal SDS power cylinders replica. PM me for details.
  7. Have you seen this template for the receiver/shroud? I used it for reference when creating my model. PlayfulWolfCub’s 1.5” diameter (38.1mm) Sterling receiver template https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=24156
  8. I recently completed a build of a 3D printed ANH E-11 which I modeled and printed myself. I used PETG filament and printed all the parts on my Creality CR-10S printer. I picked up some good pointers from justjoseph63 and his excellent tutorial on smoothing a 3D print: PETG is a wonderful material and sands beautifully. Yeah, it was a lot of work, but not as hard as you might think. I printed my parts a standard resolution (0.2mm/layer) which is already fairly smooth. I sanded with 100 grit followed by 220 grit. I used putty to fill in any blemishes or scars left from support attachments and sanded again with 220 grit. Instead of using the XTC-3D epoxy in the tutorial, I used multiple coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear spray enamel, which I sanded to a very smooth finish. For the topcoat, I used Rustoleum 2X flat black on the sterling barrel and frame/end cap. I used Rustoleum 2X matte black on the scope, Hengstler, and grip. I also sprayed the grip with clear coat to give it a glossy finish. I painted the fire control group housing and bolt with Testors steel enamel and used a flat black acrylic paint and water mixture to tone down the steel color and add dimension. I used a formed metal spring instead of the printed spring. I highly recommend doing this. I did a bit of light weathering on the finish. I used acrylic silver to touch the edges of the Sterling and dry brushed sparingly on some of the flat surfaces. I blackwashed over this and used a paper towel to get the finish I wanted. On the scope, I touched up the edges with acrylic antique gold and used a white crayon to fill the text on the eyepiece. On the Hengstler, I painted the logo window acrylic antique gold and blackwashed over that until it was nearly hidden. I also painted the number display. Functional features of the blaster include: MOVING/RESETTING TRIGGER INDEXING THREE POSITION SELECTOR SWITCH REMOVABLE END CAP FUNCTIONAL END CAP RELEASE RECIPROCATING BOLT FUNCTIONAL MAGAZINE RELEASE REMOVABLE MAGAZINE FUNCTIONAL FOLDING STOCK REAR SIGHT FLIPS BETWEEN 100M AND 200M APERTURES GRIP, FIRE CONTROL GROUP, BOLT, AND CHARGING HANDLE ASSEMBLES/DISASSEMBLES LIKE A REAL STERLING SMG MARK IV (L2A3) 1942 M38 HOLLOW SCOPE WITH CLEAR LENSES HOLLOW HENGSTLER WITH FUNCTIONAL RESET BUTTON Here are a few photos of the finished blaster! If you want to print this blaster yourself, click on the links below for the FREE STL files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3989097 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5139600 If you would like this blaster, but have no way to have one printed, check the Ongoing Sales and Project Runs section on this forum. From time to time, I will make a limited run of blasters and post there. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/16-ongoing-sales-project-runs/
  9. i noticed the rear sight is flipped to the 100m aperture. If you will flip that to the 200m aperture, the rear tab of the scope rail will sit a little higher and level that Hengstler. If you like the way it looks at the 100m setting, just shim underneath the scope rail where the screw attaches, until the Hengstler is level.
  10. You are quite welcome! Thank you for printing and building my model. It looks fantastic, and I’m glad you are enjoying the functional features! Nice work!
  11. Most of the long parts are broken down into sections for smaller printers. Barrel measures 7.80" [196mm] (I print horizontally) Folding stock rod measures 7.42" [188.44mm] (I print vertically) The longest part is the scope rail at 9.87" [250.69mm] (I print horizontally on my CR-10S, but I suppose it could be printed vertically)
×
×
  • Create New...