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trooper96

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by trooper96

  1. No, it was just for fun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Head on over to the 3D Depository for a direct link to the files to print my blaster.
  3. I’ll start a thread in the 3D section with all the details. In the meantime, here are some pictures of the assembled blaster. Now for some sanding and painting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Not the finished product yet, but I was especially pleased with how some of the debossed text on the blaster came out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Left side complete. The pictures are just a mock-up held together with gorilla tape. No glue yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. It’s really my prototype for this model. I’ll see what came out good and what needs improvement. There have been a few details that need attention, but on the whole, I’m very pleased with the way it looks so far. I could definitely see myself trooping with this blaster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Left rear quadrant of the blaster on the printer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Right half complete! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I acquired a Creality CR-10S printer a little over a week ago, and started printing my model. I divided the main body into 4 parts to accommodate the printer bed size. I will print attachments and accessories separately. I’m printing on the highest resolution setting, so it’s taking a LOOOOOOONG time. Here’s a little progress... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Just got this photo from the guy printing the blaster for me. I’ve got a very good feeling about this! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks for the tip about the grip design. I did some work on the grip today. Actually, I started over because the rounded edges on the first model caused subsequent features to fail when I tried to suppress them. It’s all good, though. I’m much happier with the new model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I think I have an idea how to round out the front, back, and bottom surfaces of the grip. Stay tuned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. When I was modeling the grip, I used the largest radius could on the edge that still allowed the width of the grip texture to remain. I can take another look at it, but I’m not sure how much larger I can make it.
  14. Just for fun, here’s the blaster without the solid supports for the folding stock and scope rail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I made a couple of modifications to the model. I added a knurling to the front sight guard and a scope rail retaining screw. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Thanks. It could be done. My thought here was more to strengthen the fragile plastic arms on the folding stock. In this regard, the design intent was more to make a durable "trooping blaster" than the more aesthetically pleasing separated folding stock. You may note I did the same with the scope rail, adding a filler/support between it and the receiver body. I am not opposed to separating the folding stock in another version of the blaster. It would probably mean printing the folding stock separately from the main body and making a provision for anchoring the front end underneath the barrel shroud. After printing the prototype (which is now underway), I will have a better idea about what changes to make in the next iteration.
  17. Yeah, still trying to figure out how to make the modeling software wrap that pattern around multiple surfaces. I’ll try to add that feature later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. A few years ago, I bought a Sterling SMG Mark IV L2A3 parts kit. My plan was to create molds to reproduce accurate parts to build a few blasters. My efforts were only partially successful. Frustrated, I abandoned the project and set the kit aside. Fast forward, and last year a friend of mine bought a 3D printer. By trade, I am a mechanical designer with access to a very nice piece of modeling software, SolidWorks. I decided the way to move forward on my quest to acquire an extremely accurate E11 blaster would be to develop 3D models by measuring parts from my kit and having my friend print them. I researched information on the accessories that transformed a Sterling into an E11. Lots of good stuff out there. I bought a replica 1943 M38 tank scope and modeled that. Same for t-tracks and power cylinders. The only thing I couldn’t find a satisfactory level of detail on, was the Hengstler counter. In full disclosure, I borrowed one from Thingiverse. I am attaching some pictures of the complete model. I would appreciate any feedback you could offer. TK-14082 Carolina Garrison Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. I wish! The guides were waving everyone off. Still very cool to have seen him, though. I was seriously like 10 feet away from him! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  20. You will NEVER believe who I ran into walking through Disney Springs Friday afternoon! We spent Thursday at Celebration and were on our way to Disney's Animal Kingdom. We had parked in Disney Springs and taken a bus to Port Orleans Resort to transfer to Animal Kingdom. As we arrived, my wife realized she had left her ID and debit card in our car, which we would need to get our passes at the gate. We, along with our youngest daughter (21) reluctantly returned to Disney Springs. We decided to get lunch before heading to Animal Kingdom. After lunch, we were walking to the shuttle buses, when we heard some people talking behind us. My wife turned around and said, "Isn't that..." I said, "It certainly looks like him." At that point, I froze, completely starstruck. My wife had the presence of mind to snap a few pictures as he and his entourage went by. Yes, folks, this really happened. This is not a drill! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  21. Does it work? Yes, it does! This was done quickly with only a couple of areas that required minor trimming. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  22. This is really a hack for people who already have a helmet and are working on the next one. If you already have a helmet and are pleased with the way the ears look (even if there is still a gap), your next set of ears can come ridiculously close to perfect! 1. Tear a wide sheet of aluminum foil about square. Fold it several times (for rigidity) until it is a little larger than an ear cover with good margins. 2. Press the foil tightly around the ear cover on the existing helmet. Capture as much of the detail as possible, as this serves to index the position of the foil template on the new ear cover. 3. Take a narrow implement with a straight edge and really press the foil to the edges of the ear cover that mate with the helmet. Be careful not to tear or puncture the foil. The curve at the cheek tube may require a little extra persuasion to conform completely. 4. Press and shape a second time to ensure the foil did not shift. 5. Carefully remove the foil from the helmet and place it over the new ear cover. 6. Trace the trim line. 7. Be conservative and trim close to the outside of the line first. Make small adjustments as needed. 8. Rinse and repeat with the other side. 9. You should have little to no gap with the new set of ears. 10. You're welcome!
  23. While we're waiting for further developments... not related to the project but I just received the proofs for my Legion trading cards!
  24. With the bonding, thickness is a little over 1/8". I like that it retains the shape of the original. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  25. The trigger guard is a thin part. Perfect in steel but not so much in resin. I am attempting to beef it up by bonding a scrap piece of white armor to it. If that fails, I will form my own guard from 1/8" x 1/2" aluminum. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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