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REAPERofDAISYS

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Posts

    171
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About REAPERofDAISYS

Member Title

  • Position
    Expert Infantry

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    ieatsoda@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wa
  • Interests
    All things Star Wars
    Snowboarding
    Motorcycles

FISD Info

  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    John
  • 501st ID
    87667
  • 501st Unit
    Midwest Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

648 profile views
  1. Getting the thighs and wrist glued and put together, for now I'm just doing cover strips on the inside. I think I'll put gorilla tape over it to ad an extra layer of strength and flex. Still not sure how I'm going to do the shins. I need a lot of flex to get them open so they will fit around my daughter's legs. I'm honestly thinking of just using gorilla tape for the front and velcro the backs. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  2. That's a good point. I might give E6000 a try first Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  3. Finished sanding and got a couple coats of Grey primer on it to smooth it out, and get a smooth base coat. I now got to figure out how I'm going to stick the few pieces together that are split. I think I'll try using super glue or jb weld with cover strips on the inside to hopefully get a seriously strong bond. Seems like nothing wants to hold to this plastic. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  4. Technically yes. I can unscrew it if needed. Not sure if I would or not. I'm hoping it's sturdy enough I won't have to. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  5. I'm hoping the wooden Dowell I put though this one is enough. But if not that is a good idea. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  6. Well I've now made 1 repair. My wife (who this is for) picked it up the first time and tried to rack the charging handle. So that broke clean off. I decided to redneck myself a fix. I hollowed out the changing handle where it goes into the body. Then I had to grind down a bolt so it would fit inside. Threw a bunch of E6000 to hold that in and screwed the bolt through the charging handle. Looks good as new and it should be a lot stronger. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  7. Finished! I used E6000 and glued it in sections. I did a final sanding with 400 grit to smooth out some of the scuffs from the clamps I used while gluing it together. Then a final coat of paint. It still has some printer lines visible. But overall I'm very happy with it. Both front and rear sight move. And the bipod is held in place with a simple pin. It's also super light only 2.5 pounds. So it will be great for trooping. Only thing I don't know is how durable it is. It feels pretty stiff and I don't think it's going to have any problems. But being a 3d print even if it gets cracked or broken, it's nothing glue and paint can't fix. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  8. 3-4 coats of black and I'm happy with the results. Had to give the barrel some extra shots to make sure the inner barrel didn't have any Grey spots. For assembly I started at the buttstock and used e6000. Gave it a liberal amount so it should hold well. The two body pieces don't interlock so I'm using clamps to make sure they stay aligned. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  9. Threw a couple coats of filler primer and sanded mostly with 400 grit (220 for rougher areas) After that I decided it was good enough. I'm not going for perfect. Especially since this will be for trooping. I'm going to get a couple coats of the flat black on there then give it a last sanding with the 400 or maybe even 1000 grit. Before adding the last coat and assembly. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  10. Put some glazing putty in the larger gaps left over from sanding. This stuff dries super fast. Like 2 minutes. So I had to do about 7 small batches to get through all the pieces. Now I just gotta let it set for a bit. It recommends about 15 minutes but I'll probably give it a bit longer just to be safe. Hopefully get started painting in a couple days. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  11. Did a test fit to figure out where all the small pieces go and which parts need to be sanded. Also happy this kit is made to have a 3/8" wooden Dowell through the entire body to give it that extra strength. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  12. Decided to make the holster somewhat usable. So I put some screws in the gun where it already had some dimples for it to "hook" onto the thigh holster. Then I cut the sides and back off the thigh holster part. Screws slid right in so it should work well. I did accidently drill too large of a hole for one of the screws. So I added a piece of cardboard and threw some super glue on it for good measure. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  13. Finished bondo and sanding with the body. So after a coat of filler primer I can now see areas that will need some attention. This plastic has a nasty habit of getting super buggered up when sanding. So I'll have to do multiple coats of the primer, sanding lightly with probably 4-500 grit sandpaper to get s smooth finish. My daughter did feel the need to point out that this wasn't the correct color for Phasma. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  14. Few more hours of sanding done. Still got a few pieces to go with the 120 grit. Then I'll hit everything again with 220 to get rid of the little fuzzies that collect from the 120. Then I'll do whatever bondo filler in needed from areas where the print layers didn't fill in smoothly. After it'll be on to the primer and 400 grit sanding. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
  15. I'll do my best to keep it real. I spent a long time looking around for these and I just didn't want to fork over the $$ for a finished one. This seemed like a good way to get a quality product that can hold up to the rigors of trooping, Without breaking the bank. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
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