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My design has 2 variations - a regular solid coin and a coin with a cutout - of course the cutout would require a different back. Both feature enamel with glitter in it - something with a celebratory feel. I loved the fact that this is the one time where the number 15 can be found in FISD (with the right font of course) so that was really the basis of the idea, as well as including both OT and FO TK's. One that note I focused on the 3 colors found in the respective FISD logos - Clasic FISD Blue and Yellow, First order Red and Yellow - with Yellow being the unifying elements between the red and blue. Ive updated to include the word ANNIVERSARY. Here is the first version of the coin Here is the alternate design featuring cutouts around the troopers.

Ok, you can blame @Frank75139 for this... one more entry. This one includes a patch version too. and the patch...

Absolutely - I think this will be only the second New Generation suit you guys have looked at after Jeff's, and the first under the new CRL he helped write, so I'm happy to be patient. Just since I'm suiting up an additional time to finish this out, it would be great to know if I have any Centurion changes to make (other than showing the tabs on my trauma plate) or fitment issues to watch for. It's kind of a whole production to get the suit out, put it on, and have my fiance take pictures, so any efficiencies I can create are appreciated. Feel free to PM me if/when you have anything, and thank you!

BBB day, finaly ! 107 euros for customs, I expected much worse.

alright, but I'll just try shaping it first. here's my strapping system in case anyone wanted to see

Looks much nicer

OUTSTANDING post, Jason and very much appreciated. Your info and pics make the picture very clear, so mostly to recap: "Remnant" Troopers are distinctly different than any New Era stormtroopers we have otherwise seen in any of the new properties, and are acknowledged by LFL as such through licensed merchandising. Is it a DRASTIC difference from the standard, cleanwhite New Era Stormtrooper? No. But is IS clearly and consistently different. And should be accounted for in a CRL somehow, once someone builds one. I don't know how this process formally works, but we would propose a new Mandalorian "Remnant Stormtrooper" be created. However, suits which should be noted that are NOT substantively different are the "Rogue One"-style suits from Solo and the Mandalorian thusfar, and I think it is extremely likely that we will see this same style armor as the standard depiction of OT-era stormtroopers moving forward in all LFL productions. ANH is VHS, New Era is 4K BluRay. These suits also need to be accounted for - and I would second Jason and strongly suggest/propose doing so by renaming the Rogue One CRL something like "Non-Saga", "New Era", or "New Generation" Stormtrooper to include these other properties, as the IOC did to cover Staff Officer costumes from these properties with their Non-Saga Staff Officer CRL update. I believe the only change to the CRL (other than the name) would be adding optional accessories from the other properties (SE-14R and E-22 blasters to start, as there is clear reference). We believe there is enough reference material to support these proposals and people willing to create the new Remnant costume and separate CRL. So what else do we need? Let's make this happen, @Sly11! *Another note - the weathering on the Remnant is distinctly different than those for Sandtroopers - notably the black chipping seen. Also, no backpacks. MEPD can't have it

Ben, it sounds like you are on the correct path. Jason is correct that there is no one answer, as long as everything is proportional to your build, you will be fine. In the end, the overall look of the armor and its correct appearance in proportion to the wearer is what matters. Jason, on the rubber belt idea, I know that a lot of the clone trooper have rubber belts, I am not sure the rubber would look "shiny" enough to blend with the armor and then there is the how to keep it clean. I have had to deal with these issues with my urethane shoulder straps and just about all the flexible materials (rubber or urethane) attract stuff to them that seems to stick to them like static cling. These are not really issues for the clones since their armor is based on animated or CGI armor. I do know that Smooth-On makes a glossy plastic like coating but I have not investigated if it would stick to the urethane or rubber or silicone and would not crack if flexed. Surely, this is something to investigate and possibly something to produce for sale. I would be interested to see what you come up with. I am slammed with project ATM or I would spend some time looking into this. Good idea.

Good stuff, Glen...I love it! Thanks!

Looks like you figured out how to post images, Romain! As long as you are using imgur or another photo hosting service, you don't have to worry about overloading the thread. We LOVE photos, and lots of them! Posting them up on your thread is especially helpful when/if you have an issue, as it's MUCH easier to help you if we can see the details. Looking forward to following your build!

Re-sewn for accuracy. Also shown, spring hook tool, to make the shins easier to fit Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Excellent but you have not added your image correctly. here is an easy guide on how to add them directly to your threads without just showing a link. Very excited to see you bring this build together. if you are the first then we will need to work together to create an accurate CRL so make sure you do plenty of research and have as many reference images as possible.

Well, further work on the ab's right side is postponed until I can get new snap pliers. Heads up, stay away from Hobby Lobby's heavy duty snap pliers. They have poor instructions that also refer to vague non-included attachments. They also break the snaps. So until amazon delivers me a new one, getting started on the belt will get me closer to finishing the ab plate anyway. I found it easier to score the ammo belt from its backside by following the edge of the holes' cusps. I found this nice diagram for reference: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160510/2146e2d88bd088c1ee23e84b539089bc.jpg Using my pre-built canvas belt from Steph's Imperial Outfitters (forgot to include in pic! But really nice. She also supplied my neck seal) I cut the corners off to match the edges. Finally, I marked where I will drill for the rivets/buttons. Ab button placement looks good. I'll be sanding the edges down flatter so it sits flush when time comes to glue.

The chest/ab straps look as if they could be reduced a little as they are quite long which may help, but side straps would definitely do the trick

There are also these images, 3D files are available for this too also here

Congratulations Jonathan and 501st centurion approval too, that's also awesome. PLUS, it's TK day 4-21 so a triple whammy!! Welcome to centurion rank

Wow, that is some serious detail Eric!

Congratulations Jonathan welcome to Centurion 501, won't be hard to remember that

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the Centurion ranks

Wow Jonathan !!! Congratulations for being the 501st Centurion of the 501st Legion approved on TK day 421 !!!!!

21/04/21, 501 Congratulations Jonathan!!! Great job!!!

On the advice of my UKG armourer I've removed some of the paint Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Hi Jonathan, Thanks for your Centurion application. It's so clear you've really done your research and have kept these L2 and L3 requirements in mind throughout your build. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Nothing more to add here other than what other troopers have pointed out. Again, an incredibly impressive application; you should be proud of your hard work. Finally, I want to point out that *not only* are you Centurion #501, but you were approved on TK Day: 4/21. On behalf of the DO team and myself, please accept our hearty congratulations on reaching the rank of Centurion!

This is a mini tutorial about the use of Neodymium ("rare earth") magnets. As you may have read here in different build threads, these little devils are invaluable when constructing a set of TK armor. BUT.. there are a few things to consider before purchasing and then using them... For purposes of this tutorial, I will be referring to magnets that are 7/8 inches (23mm) in diameter and 1/8 inch (4mm) thick, (as seen below) with a strength of N40. First, know that these things are STRONG! (Imagine a regular magnet the same size, but 10 times more powerful). This is a good thing for our purposes, but you should know a few quick facts first: 1. I mentioned that these are strong already, but know that the strength is such that they can (and will) jump up to 8 inches to reconnect with each other or another metal object. If your finger is between the magnets and this happens, it can cause injury, from bruising to serious cuts. They also can (and will) shatter if allowed to connect from a distance, and flying chips can cause eye injuries. In a word, be careful. I highly suggest wearing eye protection. That is up to you, but please read this post from Glen located below. 2. Due to the strong magnetic field, those with pacemakers or the like should take extra caution when handling these. 3. Whatever you do, keep these away from children. Now that I've scared you a bit, on with the show! When considering what size to buy for your build, I cannot recommend the 7/8 x 1/8 size enough. The reason being is that you will only need one on each side of the connection you are gluing, and they have a large surface area. Anything smaller (or thinner) and you run the risk of having to "double up" (stack) them to get the proper adhesion, and the thinner ones shatter more easily. When you receive them, they will have little plastic separators between each one. To get them apart, the easiest (and safest) way is to slide them. As you separate them, again, be sure to keep them as far apart as possible to prevent shattering or injury. (Save the plastic inserts). After separating them, I strongly recommend doing one of 2 things... 1. Wrapping each one in masking or painter's tape, (this will prevent them from scratching your armor) or 2. Making mini "sachets" for each one. The tape method is quick and easy, but the sachets are really handy if you have the time. To make them: Cut 4" (10cm) squares from a piece of fairly thick cloth, (not t-shirt type material) for as many magnets as you have. Place one magnet in each one**, and secure it with a zip-tie. (I used a rubber band for the photo, which will not work in real life). This gives you a "handle". NOTES: **Be SURE that you do half facing one direction out and half facing the other (north/south poles). Otherwise they won't adhere. Using a sachet will not prevent them from shattering. Cricket added a great example photo and tips in a post below. After you have applied the E-6000** to the seam you are gluing, place one magnet on the top of the cover strip, and carefully add one to the opposite side (inside). To keep the cover strip tight to the join along the entire length, I suggest placing magnets every 3-4 inches apart. If you see any areas where the cover strips are not flush with the armor, add more magnets. For the ends, you can use clamps as seen above. Be sure they have rubber or plastic on the ends, though. After the E-6000 has cured (usually 12-24 hours) it's time to remove the magnets! IMPORTANT! I have found the best way to remove them is this: First, remove the clamps. Then, using one hand, grasp the magnet on the top closest to the end. Using the other hand, SLIDE the one on the inside out, keeping them well apart. Stack them using the plastic separators they came with. Now, it's time to look at that perfect seam and think "Hey, I'm one step closer to approval"! NOTES: ** As the vast majority of TKs will tell you, E-6000 is really the best adhesive out there for armor. Unless you are an experienced builder, if you choose to use CA (super) glue, know that if it drips, you run the risk of it running onto your armor or causing the magnets/sachets to adhere to your seam. You have been warned. 1. There is no such thing as having "too many magnets". I know they are not cheap, but the more you have the more pieces you can glue at one time. I recommend having no less than 12. 2. There are many sources to purchase this size magnet, and the prices can run up to $3.00 each. But, you can find them on eBay most of the time for a lot less. This seller for instance offers them for $9.99 for six, which includes postage. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pcs-Super-Strong-Neodymium-Rare-earth-Magnet-Disc-for-sale-7-8-dia-x-1-8-thick/281060567507?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Another good source is here: https://totalelement.com/products/3-4-x-1-8-inch-neodymium-rare-earth-disc-magnets-n52-8-pack Tim (PICTreed) found a great site that is a fantastic magnet source here: https://appliedmagnets.com/neodymium-disc-magnets-1-in-x-1-8-in-w-countersunk-hole-p-601.html 3. When you have completed your build, please consider "paying it forward" to someone in your Garrison/Squad who is starting their build by selling them your magnets at a reduced price. "Troopers helping Troopers"!

Nearly finished, now. Currently, he’s “Mr No Stripes” AND “Mr No Lens”... ;-)

I'm jumping around a bit since I feel I want to move to another piece when I reach a slight obstacle impasse. Here's the left ab/kidney plate juncture where I measured out the rivet holes. Reference: Marked, drilled and test fit:

Got a tracking number !! BBB expected next tuesday !! Exciting !

Is it worth linking this thread via FB? I hate to admit it, but, I feel most people use socials more regularly than the forum. A little note with a link on the FB group might stir up some more entries. :-)

If you haven't 3D printed before I would suggest adding slightly thicker walls when printing, helps with strength of pieces, I find printed parts can be easily cracked.

I was hoping it would be more obvious.

This may be a little too abstract for most people (I know a lot of people usually want to see pics of helmets, characters, weapons and whatnot), but I liked how it turned out, so I figured I'd at least sub it. The first side takes some elements and colors from the FISD logo(s) as well as the back plate of the TK's. The second side has all the info. All using the colors and typefaces from the OP.

Thanks. That's a very nice coin. I was avoiding the 3D finish as I assumed it would bump up costs, but it is very nice. The buckets are negotiable - I have options I can switch out - with the concept trooper I was just going for something not commonly seen but yet visually distinct. Yes, I'm an OTTK as well, but the difference between a ANH stunt and Hero / ROTJ / ROTK or even HWT would be lost at that scale in the final production - so it would be a repeat of the front, more or less. I wouldn't mix the two tone metal (bringing in gold) with the coloured paints (unless you meant gold-coloured paint) - you would lose the effect of the different metals and the paints might look funny - I could change the front XV to gold but I would probably do the whole coin in black metal and gold or... nickel and gold/bronze with some black accent paint. If I got away from the EIB DLT-19 I would probably drop the Centurion laurels as well on the back. Here is an earlier version I did with the larger XV in two-tone metal (raised and recessed antique bronze with raised and recessed antique nickel and black paint). This is inspired by the ten year FISD coin but no large TK bucket.