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A lot of people add the inner strip, I do to all of the builds I have done, shins do get a lot of flex over time opening and closing so extra support can help prevent cracking. You don't have to add them if you don't want too

Doing the last abs paste touch ups today. Noticed there is some cover strips I would like to redo due to my first build and being excessive with the e6000. Lesson learned from gaining experience.

Are you new to the FISD and wondering what the heck all those abbreviations and strange sounding terms mean? To help you along, I have compliled a list of the most commonly used ones that will give you some insight. If you have ANY questions about a particular term that is not listed or suggestions for new ones please ask! TK Glossary located at bottom of post Entries marked with blue asterisks ** are our "vetted" (tried and true) armorers. More information on them can be found here Acronyms A ABS- Acrylo Butadiene Styrene is a highly durable lightweight thermoplastic used by most makers of Stormtrooper armor. More info. here AM- Armor Master- U.S. based maker of ANH Stunt/Hero style armor ** (See DDD below) ANH- A New Hope (Star Wars episode IV) 1977 AOC- Attack of the Clones (Star Wars Episode II) 2002 AP- Authenticprops Canadian based maker of ANH Stunt style armor ** ATA- Affordable Trooper Armor U.S. based maker of ANH Stunt style armor ** (Sadly, no longer available) B BFG- Big Freakin' Gun Larger style weapons (T-21, DLT-19 etc.) used by HWTs, Sandtroopers and certain other TKs. C CFO- Cast From Original- UK based maker of ROTJ armor** CO- Commanding Officer CRL- Costume Reference Library List of all 501st costumes with a detailed description of each. Link here. CS- Command Staff D DO- Deployment Officer Responsible for approving troopers at higher levels (EI and Centurion) DD- Doopydoos UK manufacturer of various SW props, including resin weapon kits. UPDATE- No longer selling resin E-11 kits DDD- Dave's Darkside Depot Maker of AM armor (see AM above) DCA- Detachment Costume Advisor Offers advice to GMLs for approving various 501st costumes DCOG- Detachment Captain of the Guard Responsible for interpreting/enforcing rules, mediation and disputes. Also oversees disciplinary hearings and moderates FISD elections DF- Detachment Founder Paul (Daetrin) DL- Detachment Leader Elected head of a Detachment DMBO- Detachment Merchandise Branding Officer Responsible for all items pertaining to FISD logos and branding DPRO- Detachment Public Relations Officer Social Media, Newsletter, Publications, Photo Editing, Diplomat, Trading Cards, Content Editor etc. DWM- Detachment Web Master Systems Administrator/website gurus DXO- Detachment Executive Officer (XO is commonly used) Second in Command of the Detachment E EI- Expert Infantry Optional second level awarded for a more advanced screen accurate TK build. More info. here EIB - Expert Infantry Badge Official FISD logo used for the above rank. ESB - The Empire Strikes Back (Star Wars Episode V) 1980 EU- Expanded Universe Older term use for non-canon items/characters not seen in the existing SW films (books/novels/comics etc.) Currently referred to as Legends F FISD- 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment FO- First Order FOBG- First Order Battle Group. Area of the FISD dedicated to all things FO related. Link here. FOTK - First Order Stormtrooper FX- Older brand of TK armor. Armor is acceptable for approval up to EI with modifications. Helmet is not accepted for approval at any level. G GML- Garrison Membership Liaison Responsible for approving costumes at Basic level GCO- Garrison Commanding Officer Elected head of a Garrison GXO- Garrison Executive Officer Second in command of a Garrison H HDPE- High Density Poly Ethylene A petroleum based thermoplastic polymer used to make the 50 original Stunt helmets for A New Hope. HIPS- High Impact Polystyrene Used by some makers of Stormtrooper armor. More info. here HWT- Heavy Weapons Trooper As seen in the Battlefront video game series. More info here I IA- Imperial Attache FISD Extended Staff Officer. More info here IAA- Imperial Attache Ambassador- Staff Officer in charge of the IA program ILM- Industrial Lights and Magic Special effects company founded by George Lucas in 1975 for SW IPM- Imperial Propaganda Machine Pertaining to the monthly FISD newsletter/Facebook/Twitter/Discord accounts L L1- Level one Basic 501st costume approval L2- Level two Refers to Expert Infantry status. Please see EI L3- Level three Refers to Centurion status. Award for the highest level of screen accuracy for a TK build. LCO- Legion Commanding Officer Description here LCOG- Legion Captain of the Guard Description here LFL- Lucasfilm Limited Film/television production company started in 1971 by George Lucas. Now owned by Disney. LMBO- Legion Merchandise Branding Officer Description here LMO- Legion Membership Officer Description here LPRO- Legion Public Relations Officer Description here LXO- Legion Executive Officer Second in command of the 501st Legion M MEPD- Mos Eisley Police Department Detachment for Sandtroopers. Link here N NL- News Letter Refers to the monthly FISD online publication O OT- Original Trilogy (A New Hope / The Empire Strikes Back / Return of the Jedi) P PER- Personnel Officer In charge of various FISD administrative duties PM- Private Message PRO- Public Relations Officer Serves as the FISD's main voice on Social Media R R1- Rogue one: A Star Wars Story 2016 RL - Rebel Legion Info here ROTJ - Return of the Jedi (Star Wars Episode VI) 1983 RPF - Replica Props Forum is a non-501st forum for prop replication information sharing. RS- RS Propmasters UK based maker of ANH Stunt style armor** RT-MOD - Canadian based maker of ANH style armor ** RWA- UK based maker of ANH style armor** S SDS- Shepperton Design Studios UK based maker of ANH style armor T TB- Trooperbay Seller of various TK accessories. Link here TBA- To Be Announced TBD- To Be Determined TD- Thermal Detonator TD - 501st Costume designation for Sandtroopers TFA- The Force Awakens (Star Wars Episode VII) 2015 TPM- The Phantom Menace (Star Wars Episode I) 1999 TK - 501st Costume designation for Stormtrooper style armor TLJ- The Last Jedi (Star Wars Episode VIII) 2017 TM - Troopermaster UK based maker of ANH Stunt, ESB and ROTJ style armor ** T/MC- U.S. based maker of ANH Stunt style armor ** TROS- The Rise of Skywalker (Star Wars Episode IX) 2019 W WIP- Work in Progress WTF- Walt's Trooper Factory- U.S. based maker of ANH style armor ** Glossary of common TK terms A ABS Paste- Slurry made from ABS scraps and acetone used to fill gaps/seams. More info here Armor bite- Points where the armor (usually return edges) are too tight and rub against your skin or cut into you causing chafing/bruising Aurebesh- Writing system/alphabet used to represent spoken Galactic Basic (the most commonly seen form of written language in the SW franchise). B Brow Trim- Black rubber gasket with a U shaped profile located above the eyes that extends back to the center of the ears on a TK helmet Bucket- Alternate name for a TK helmet Butt join- As used in ANH and ESB armor where the seams on the biceps, forearms, thighs and calves are hidden with a cover strip C Cap- Rear section of a TK helmet Canon- For our purposes, as seen on screen or deemed a standard part of the accepted/sanctioned Star Wars universe Centurion- Highest level of FISD approval for screen accurate TK style armor Info. here Cheeks- Elongated semi-tubular areas located below the tears on a TK helmet Chicago screw- Fastener that has a barrel-shaped flange and is internally threaded. Commonly used for attaching the holster to the canvas belt. Classic (strapping system)- As used in OT armor, the torso parts are held together with metal brackets/straps in lieu of snaps/straps Cod- Lower tab of the abdomen plate that covers the crotch area Cover strip- Plastic strip used to cover the bicep, forearm, thigh and calf seams on ANH and ESB armor D Detachment- One of 16 specific factions within the 501st dedicated to researching, constructing and promoting a distinct group of costumes Double Cap rivet- Hollow bodied 2 part fastener with a dome on both ends used for attaching ammo thigh pack. Not screen accurate. (See Single Cap Rivet below). Double snap- The use of two snaps instead of one on the ends of a connecting strap, providing a more reliable/stronger connection Drop Boxes- Rectangular boxes located below the ends/tabs of the ABS belt on most TKs E Ear bar- The raised area in the center of the top (round) part of the ear on a TK helmet Ear bump(s)- The 4 raised ridges on top of the ear bar. Hero ear bars have 3 bumps Expert Infantry- Optional second level of FISD approval for screen accurate armor, given only after Basic 501st approval Info. here F Face plate- Front section of a TK helmet Fire Team- Although not officially recognized by the Legion or FISD, these groups form a common identity and spirit of camaraderie among approved stormtroopers in the same geographic area/Garrison that troop together. More info here. Frown- The upside down V shaped opening (tooth area) located above the vocoder/Hovi tips on a TK helmet G Garrison- The largest type of 501st unit within a geographical region containing at least 25 members. Currently 76 world-wide Gaskets- Black ribbed rubber or shiny black coverings used to cover the shoulders, elbows and knees of FOTKs. Greeblie- A small part (usually plastic or resin) used to accessorize a prop weapon or armor H Hovi (mic) tips- Short round black plastic parts attached in the recessed areas on either side of the vocoder on a TK helmet. Note that the ones used in the original ROTJ helmets were metal. Hero- TK armor style as worn by Han and Luke in ANH. Differs slightly from Stunt. More info. here Hyperfirm- Maker of high quality rubber-type TK weapons/props. No longer in business. K Knee plates- Separate knee coverings worn by FOTKs which cover the front area between the thigh and shin L Legends- Please see EU in the acronyms area M Merch- Term often used when referring to FISD/501st branded merchandise Mobility cut- Arc shaped sections removed from the top rear of the calf and bottom rear of the thigh for comfort purposes N Neck Seal- Black ribbed collar used to conceal the entire neck and openings above the back/chest plate. Examples here O Outpost- The smallest 501st Legion unit containing at least 1 member, usually outside the borders of an existing Garrison/Squad. Currently 30 world-wide Overlap (construction)- As used on ROTJ armor, this is where one side of the bicep, forearm, thigh and calf connecting seams overlap the opposite seam, eliminating the need for a cover strip P Pauldron- Soft part used by Sandtroopers, HWTs and certain other TKs that cover the right shoulder Pull- Term used in vaccu-forming. Often used with "bad" or "rough" when the ABS loses it's intended shape in the heat molding process. R Rare Earth Magnets- Incredibly strong neodymium magnets commonly used for holding armor parts together during gluing. Info. here and here. Recast(er)- Person who steals someone else's original design in order to manufacture and sell copies, normally at a discounted price. Info here Return Edges- Angles on the edges of many parts of TK armor used for strength or to give them a thicker appearance. Info here S S-Trim- Black rubber gasket with an S shaped profile installed around the opening of a TK helmet Shim- ABS pieces normally used to extend the sides of the kidney plate, but can be used in other areas as needed. Single Cap Rivet- Hollow bodied fastener with a dome on one end used to connect the thigh ammo pack. Screen accurate, but split rivets may be substituted. Head diameter should be 5/16" (8mm) Sniper Knee Plate- Hexagon shaped piece attached to the top front of the left calf Shoulder bridge- Ribbed armor piece that connects the chest and back plate Spats- Circular pieces which wrap around the lower ankles of FOTK armor. Split Rivet- Round head metal fasteners with a split (bifurcated) shank attached on the left side of the kidney/abdominal plate. Head diameter should be 5/16" (8mm). Can also be used to mount the thigh ammo pack Squad- Subdivision of a 501st Garrison in a distinct region containing at least 10 members. Currently 78 world-wide Stunt- Armor style as worn by most TKs in ANH. Differs slightly from Hero. More info. here Swag- Alternate name for merchandise (coins, patches) etc. See also Merch. T Thermal Detonator- Elongated canister clipped to the rear of TK belts. Examples here Thigh ammo pack- Semi-round armor flexible piece with rectangular boxes, attached to the bottom front/sides of the right thigh Tears- Irregular triangle indentations located below the the eye openings on TK helmets. Pronounced "teer" Traps- The trapezoidal shaped indentations located above the rear of the brow trim on each side and on the rear of a TK helmet Troop- An event sanctioned by a local Garrison, Squad or Outpost. More info here Tube Stripes- Blue curved lines located on the upper section of the cheeks on TK helmets U Under Suit- Black (normally compression) garment(s) worn under TK armor to conceal all exposed skin Y Yoke- Extended tabs that are attached to the back plate and extend over the shoulder/under the armpits on FOTK armor. V Vocoder- The 7 raised black ribs located in the recessed area between the Hovi-tips

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28962-thermal-detonator-screws-or-rivets/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28912-batninjas-mtk-helmet-build/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28973-inner-drop-box-requirement/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28879-white-elastic-for-free-floating-shoulder/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28649-rs-helmet-sponge/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28429-so-will-everyone-be-ditching-their-stormtrooper-outfits, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28764-how-many-is-too-many/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 50 complete https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28570-possible-screen-match-of-rs-propmasters-helmet/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28548-abs-scoring-and-snapping-vs-cutting/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28527-tk-build-tool-kit-list/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 51 complete https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26879-some-expert-opinion-please/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28385-build-question/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28360-its-a-rough-life-as-a-tkc/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28338-total-recall-mashup-with-new-helmet/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28327-what-helmet-is-this/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28229-what-glue-is-best-for-rubber-hand-plates-to-rubber-gloves/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28292-nate-d-sanders-tk-prototype-1976-lid-for-auction/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28248-paint-colour-or-paint-code-for-thermal-det-please/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 52 complete

I plan on keeping the roll of white gaffers tape on troops. Quick in the moment fixes.

I just ordered a set of handpainted templates from Trooperbay. Thanks again @CableGuy. I guess I better get busy on getting my ears on. I see the light at the end of the tunnel on my helmet though.

Ah, cool. I hope they’re helpful. :-)

Thanks @CableGuy. I'll check it out. I am actually watching one of your videos on the stripes for the tears and traps right now.

Hey trooper, Great to hear you are going for Centurion. As you are aiming high, I would avoid the supplied decals / stickers. As you suggested, the hand painted style paint templates from TrooperBay are a good middle ground. This link is handy before you start painting; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/ If you want to go the whole hog, you could try this method:

See!? this is why its always good to follow build threads.... I am learning something.. The shin guards I have from RSP crack and creak when I flex them to put them on. I think this is more of the shape and dimensions of the troopers leg. Larger body parts look like it would be more to flex, but I am seeing the opposite. The tighter the curl the more it needs to flex in a shorter distance. I know mine will eventually break someday, being a degreed engineer in plastics. I keep an emergency kit with me now which includes some ready made strips, extra snaps, strapping, glue, a little white touch up paint, batteries, etc. I will need to add something for the shin pieces. Any suggestions?

Great job Greg, if I had any advice it would be to remove as much of the return edge around the lower Ab/cod (groin) and posterior plates. These areas will chafe heavily when trooping, as well as it looks more accurate thinned out. That said, if you're very thin in stature then letting it remain will give the armor the illusion of thickness which isn't bad for thinner folks. Keep up the good work

Thank you to everyone that contributes to these, I am positive the membership appreciate the detail and information that goes into each edition.

Man, you are doing an awesome job of this upgrade. very impressed so far. I'm going to pin this thread so it's easier to find. looking forward to you next post.

Part 2! I was debating holding off on posting for another day, but I figured I had the time to post this tonight, so let's get into it! Modifying The Helmet Additional Items Needed: Spare sheet of either ABS or HIPS (.25-.5mm) Small File I decided to start with what I felt was the hardest part of this build, just to get it over with. This would be the grove that runs from the lower traps and goes around the helmet, parallel to the black strip. Start by measuring the distance from the bottom of the faceplate to the bottom of the small trap. This was exactly 1/2 inch on my tape measure. Then mark every so often with a pencil, a point where the groove will go (use the measurement to be as accurate as you can). To help make this guide more visible on the cap/back, I used tape to go between each point. Attach a medium size cutting disc to your dremel, and secure the faceplate so it will not move at all. Following your guideline, you should make a cut that looks like this on each side: Again, secure the cap/back so it will not move. Starting from the center and working your way out, make slots with the dremel, and leave some space between each cut. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE SCREW SUPPORTS! It should look something like this: You will notice that at one point, my hands slipped and it made a cut where it shouldn't have. This is ok as errors like this can easily be fixed in later steps, don't worry too much if this happens to you. Now, use the dremel to cut the rest of the slots out on the cap/back. Now to finish the cut, take an exacto knife and cut the supports by hand, while leaving the screw slots intact: One last time with the dremel, go to the front of the faceplate, and cut the loop around the aerator out This next part take some fiddling, but you want to cut out as much of the stray supports as you can on the cap/back. You want a clear surface on the edges where the cut was made. Then with some sandpaper, sand down the edges of the main cut to straighten and smooth it out. Start with 200 grit, and work your way up to 250 or higher. Also use the sandpaper and knife to do the same to the small slots on the face plate; this will be harder as you have to work inside of the cut as everything there should still be attached. Now with the spare sheet of plastic, cut out two small rectangles that are a little larger than the cuts on the face plate. Glue them in place Now cut a long strip of the spare plastic, and make sure it has alot to work with. I cut out major slots for the top part of the cut on the cap/back, and carefully made slots for the bottom half of the cut. These slots are for the remaining supports and screw slots. It's better to cut less than more, so slowly make these cuts deeper and wider as needed, bit by bit. you should get to a point when sliding the pieces together, the groove is the same width as the grove on the face plate, and they should line up. Glue the pieces together to finish the cap/back (do not glue it to the faceplate). Take the loop cut off from the faceplate earlier, and glue it to the neck/ring. While you are at it, glue the clip greblies and the button greeblie to their original position. Now Take the faceplate, and a small file. The file should be able to fit inside of the tube stripes. Use the file to shave off the tapered edge of each stripe. Here is a in progress pick to demonstrate what I mean: Once they are finished, take the file and clean up the edges and corners until they are looking very nice! Tomorrow's steps will be filling with Bondo and sanding, as well as a final preparation for painting!!! Until then, I'm signing out

I have 2 small (2 or 3 inch) fans that run off a small USB power bank. They're not enclosed, but my plan is to mount them down low. I don't have long hair or facial hair so that isn't a problem. Also they're very quiet. I'm also reseearching audio options, hoping to use some off the shelf stuff when needed, and cobble the rest together. I really want everything to run off USB to eliminate battery issues. 2 fans for $11. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0821YC2NW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also, props to UKSWrath... I ordered Hovi tip speakers from him earlier this evening, and I already have a tracking number for it. That's fast!!

Stunt version ANH blaster has the counter and power cylinders on the opposite side This version ANH blaster was for Hero's, also used in ESB (Empire Strikes Back) so you would have to add pieces to it Luke Hero ESB (and even then there where different versions) There are differences so research is advisable

You're doing loads better than me, I got my 2 boxes in December, and.... consolidated it into one box. I built the thermal detonator and it turned out okay. I've been in too much of a panic to cut much of anything else, all the videos seem to contradict each other, or just be vague on certain subjects. I started a build thread yesterday and will probably tackle a lot of it this weekend, with support from this forum.

they should get back to you rather quickly, albeit a day due to the location. However, FYI, I also had a fit issue with RS. They are true to their reputation and corrected it and sent out new pieces in just under two weeks. I am positive you will still have a very nicely made set.

Hey Christine, I can’t thank you enough for posting this. I received a full commission ANH TK from RS about 2 1/2 months ago. It will require quite a bit of tweaking and trimming to get it just right. I’m a little short for a stormtrooper as well, about your height at 5’4” so this post and all the other input from the great folks here is much appreciated as I begin the alterations. Wish me luck...I am one with the Force, The Force is with me...

Color matching the paint will be the problem, I prefer using automotive acrylic paint, dries quickly and can be sanded and buffed/polished. I would suggest getting it professionally color matched as least then it won't look out of place Many have used Krylon paints and seem to have no issues (as long as you aren't too heavy) but we don't have that down under so can't comment further. We do have Rustoleum and I'll never use that again, some cans can be great but others spurt and come out in blobs no matter how long you shake them for

Very nice, getting there

Congratulations Josh!

Hello and welcome to the FISD, Joseph! You should start by reading through the Getting started section to gain some basic information: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/ The most helpful thread in here for Anovos kits is @ukswraths buildthread:

Thanks for the Welcome everyone! I should have mentioned at first. I already have an Anovos Kit that I picked up on FB marketplace. Of course I bought it without really knowing where to start, but this site, and some local guys, have already been extremely helpful.

Thanks again for the feedback. Progress on the helmet. I spent a lot of time on the vcoder. Overall I'm happy with the results. As usually, any feedback on them is appreciated. Next I moved onto the lens. I liked how others have used some type of post to mount them too. I created a bunch of different sized hex setoffs with an angle on them and 3D printed them out. I used Sugru to secure the mounts. I did go with only 2 per side, but was strategic in placement to ensure minimum to no gaps. I might go back and Sugru the lenses to the helmet for extra reinforcement. Again, I'm happy with the results. Helmet is together below with just the initial bolts. I still have to figure out the bottom. Again, any feedback is appreciated. Next steps are the hovi mics and the dreaded ears. I have the hovi mics painted and screens installed (failed taking pictures of them, so to come..).

The merch item will be in the form of a pin to match the 1000 EI pin in the same or similar dimensions. Gold plate with the centurion maroon colour

Yes, thank you! Put in my order to RS so now I prep all the tools and wait for that BBB!

As Caleb mentioned, the paint on the tops needs to be dialed back a bit (this includes the bottoms if needed). Many GMLs miss this requirement, but as per the CRL for Basic approval the paint "...does not leave the teeth area". To remove it, I suggest Goof Off or any NON-ACETONE paint remover, a few Q-tips and tooth picks. It's easier than you think!

Hey Martin I have a ShadowTrooper at the Specialist level. If you have any questions I'd be glad to help.