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All, thanks for the feedback. I figured it'd shake out that way, so no hard feelings. The original goal was to get my husband, Harry, kitted out and that order has been placed. So still making headway.

Congratulations @MightyAtom, and to all who have joined our ranks of Centurion, you are now... ONE OF US! ONE OF US! ONE OF US!!!!!

Hello from Sweden! Just getting started and have finished ordering a full commission build from RS Prop Master. Now the waiting begins :)

This is exciting!

Welcome to the elite Mark

This list is for Original Trilogy (OT) builds. ANH, ESB and ROTJ) For those who are about to embark on a TK build, in addition to the kit itself and the supplies you will need** to do that we are often asked about other items to complete the ensemble and get approved. These are known as "soft parts", and include the holster, under suit, boots, gloves, neck seal and canvas belt. Be aware that some armorers may include one or more of these items with their kit, but some do not. Also be aware that just because the seller includes them it does not always mean that they are the correct type/style and are eligible for approval (especially at higher levels). When in doubt, always ask your armorer which items are part of the package or feel free to ask here if you have doubts/questions. We are here to help! If there is a particular soft part you need, below is a list of "tried and true" vendors who have an excellent reputation, as well as suggestions for where to get other pieces or even make your own! NOTE: If you are a vendor and would like to add your sales thread here or you have a tutorial on how to make your own please PM me before posting here. **https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/page/11/ White Canvas Belt: NOTE: not all belts are created equal! The belts used in the films were firm and sturdy with no creasing or sagging. Vendor- Rob Kittel https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-sandtrooper-white-canvas-belt Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/665-howto-a-guide-to-making-a-canvas-bel Neck Seal: Vendor: Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/headgear-neck-seals/stormtrooper-neck-seal Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34548-10-diy-neck-seal-v1/ Holster: NOTE: Holster straps differ for various costumes. Please see the CRL for your particular style here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Vendor- Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16744-leather-e-11-holsters-35/ Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/ammo-pouches/stormtrooper-genuine-leather-blaster-holster Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23643-making-a-holster-for-anh-stunt/ Boots: Vendor: Keep Trooping https://keeptrooping.com/product/421-classic-white/ NOTE: Imperial boots are 100% approvable at every level, but they only open once a month for orders. They can run a bit small, so I suggest ordering a half size larger than what you normally wear. Vendor: Crowprops https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/jhodpur-tkclassic-short-boots NOTE: Crowprops are 100% approvable at every level. Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27565-how-i-did-my-boots-tkboots-alternative/ Under Suit: Under suits can be purchased from many sources, and you have the choice of one or two piece types. I have found Amazon to be among the least expensive sources. The easiest thing to do is visit that site and search for it, for instance "Mens compression suit top black long sleeve". Examples: Mens compression suit top black long sleeve- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+top+black+long+sleeve&ref=nb_sb_noss Mens compression suit pants black- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+pants+black&ref=nb_sb_noss Vendor Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-stormtrooper-sandtrooper-black-undersuit NOTE: While some prefer the one-piece type, the two piece tends to be better when you have to... uhhh, let's just say "answer nature's call". IMPORTANT! When ordering an under suit, be aware that many have printed logos, white stitching etc. These can not be visible while wearing your armor. Hand guards (Flexible) Vendor: justjoseph63 - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-fs-flexible-hand-guards-for-centurion-level/ Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/flexible-hand-guards-in-white-black-or-plain Gloves: NOTE: As per the CRL for Basic 501st OT TK approval, gloves must be all black with no visible straps/logos/designs and can be rubber, Nomex, leather or a leather-like material. For Level 2 (Expert Infantry) and Level 3 (Centurion) they must be made of rubber or a rubber-like material. I highly suggest finding ones with a long wrist, which prevents it from sliding out from underneath your forearm armor. Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/accurate-trooper-black-latex-gloves Vendor: justjoseph63- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49156-fs-rubber-gloves-for-expert-infantrycenturion-level/ eBay is also an alternative. Just search Black Nomex (or leather, rubber etc.) gloves. Be sure when ordering the rubber type from eBay that you are purchasing the heavier duty type and not the disposable kind. Thigh Garter system: Vendor: Pencap510 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29991-thigh-garter-system/ NOTE: These are not a requirement, but they are AWESOME! Pauldrons- (For Heavy Weapons Troopers) Vendor: Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/

I decided to work out a complete, comprehensive list for those about to start an OT TK armor build (ANH Stunt, Hero, etc,) to help get everything in place for when "Big Brown Box" day arrives! This list does not include soft parts, (neck seal, boots, etc.) but focuses on the hardware and supplies for building the armor itself. However, a list of soft parts can be found HERE I believe I have covered most items, but would appreciate additional suggestions/corrections to add, and will keep it updated as such. Yes, it looks a bit daunting, but some of the items you will already have, and the rest can be purchased at major home improvement stores, online, or borrowed from a TK friend! Plus, it gives you something to do while you "hurry up and wait" for your kit! This list is includes items used for the EIB and Centurion programs, (marked with double red asterisks)**. These items are not required for initial TK approval, but I encourage everyone to consider them as an option. Hope this helps, and best of luck on your build! PLEASE NOTE: Some kits come with all the hardware you will need to build to Centurion level, i.e. split rivets, ear screws, TD screws, etc., however, not all armorers supply the correct ones. If you are (hopefully) planning on aiming for level 3, please check with your armorer to see if they provide these. You can also reference the photos below to see if they are accurate. These supplies are based on using the snap method for connecting the armor. Example photos are shown at the bottom for many of the items, but not all. (Everyone knows what a hammer looks like). Items with photos have a notation. 1. E-6000 glue- Great for almost everything, and removable if necessary. Highly recommended. (Pick up some wooden tongue depressors as well, makes spreading it easier)! (Photo 1) (Please see updated information on E-6000 below, after #50 before purchasing). 2. Binder or notebook- To keep notes on your research. 3. Dremel or rotary tool- A "must have". (Photo 2). Be sure to get the sanding drum attachment and extra sanding drums (Photo 3). I suggest the 180 grit type. 4. Small plastic containers- Keeps everything organized. 5. Lexan scissors- Curved and straight, for cutting ABS. (Photo 4) 6. Small spring clamps- For holding things in place while gluing. You can't have too many! (Photo 5) 7. Line 24 snaps- For strapping. You will need at least 30, and do NOT "cheap-out" on these, but purchase quality ones. (Steer clear of Wal-Mart snaps). Tandy is recommended. Tutorial located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/ (Photo 6) 8. Snap setting tools- There are 2 types to choose from- One is a two piece set (requires a hammer) (Photo 7) and the other is the pliers style (Photo 8) 9. Hammer- For setting snaps if you use the 2 piece style of snap setter. 10. Pliers/vise grips- 11. Screwdriver- Slotted head. 12. Rivets-** 5/16 (8mm). (Photo 9) Round head bifurcated/split rivets with washers. You will need 9. (3 for the kidney, 3 for the ab, one for the cod piece, 2 for the thigh ammo pack). You will also need 3 speed (Chicago") rivets to attach your ABS belt to your canvas one. These are attached by hand and not to be confused with the aluminum ones listed below (#19). Some like to use the screen accurate single cap rivets (Photo 10) to attach the ammo thigh pack but these are not a requirement. 13. Elastic- 1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.) 2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps. 14. Nylon strapping- 1 inch wide black, at least 6 to 8 ft. long. 2 inch wide black (48 inches) for high tension areas if you are using the double snap method. (NP) 15. Exacto knife/extra blades- For cutting, trimming, cutting nylon strapping. (Photo 11) 16. Heavy duty razor knife/extra blades- For cutting cover strips and scoring around pieces that will be removed. (Photo 12) 17. Heavy duty scissors/tin snips- For (carefully) cutting large sections of ABS. (Photo 13) 18. Metal ruler or straight edge- (At least 18 inches long). For use as a cutting guide, especially cover strips. 19. Hand Rivet gun/aluminum open end blind rivets- For putting your helmet together. Available for about $10-$12.00, EASY to use! (Photo 14) 20. Metric Ruler- 21. 2 x 2 or larger piece of carpet- Protects work surface, keeps dust down, and stops small parts from rolling away. 22. Rags/paper towels- And plenty of them. 23. Blue painter's tape- 1 inch and 2 inch widths. For keeping glued parts in place and dry-fitting your armor. 24. China marker/pencil- For marking cut lines. 25. Sandpaper- I highly recommend Sandblaster Pro Flexible silicone sanding sheets from 3M, 220 grit. You will never use anything else, I promise. They last forever! 26. Sanding block- The sponge type, 120 grit. 27. Band Aids- You will need these. Might as well keep them handy. 28. Rare earth magnets- (10 minimum) SUPER strong! I use the 20 mm x 3 mm round ones. Cover them in blue tape to prevent scratching your armor. You cannot have too many!!! Tutorial located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/ (Photo 15) 29. Butane Lighter- For sealing the ends of nylon strapping. (see # 44 below for a better option) 30. Large "half-round" file- For smoothing out edges before sanding. I used this a LOT, especially in the curved areas. (Photo 16) 31. Small "Needle file" set- Very inexpensive, comes in 6 different shapes, and is perfect for the teeth and eye openings on your helmet. (Photo 17) 32. Foam padding- 1 inch thick. Great for helmet and armor padding. Available at craft or fabric stores. 33. Velcro- 2 inch wide black (various uses) and 1 inch wide white, for calf closures (about 36 inches). Go for the "Industrial Strength" kind. 34. PAINT: Satin Black: Humbrol # 85 or Testors # 1747 for vocoder, trap/ tear drop/ear bar outlines/stripe(s), ROTJ and ESB frown, TD screw heads. Gray: Humbrol # 5 or Testors # 1138 for trap/tear drop/ear bar background, ANH frown and ab-buttons. French Blue: Humbrol # 14 or Testors # 2715 ForTube stripes/ab buttons. Mediterranean Blue Humbrol (Tube stripes alternative color) Testors: No exact match Gloss white for all rivet heads (excluding cod rivet). Mineral spirits for brush cleaning 35. Goo Gone- Citrus based solvent that will remove latex and enamel paint and NOT harm your armor. (Photo 18). 36. Small paint brushes- Assorted sizes. Try to buy quality ones.. Cheap brushes =cheap looking results. I suggest picking up a "filbert" (Photo 19) style brush (photo 5) as well, as it's rounded tip works great for painting the ab plate buttons and vocoder. Another GREAT way to get clean, crisp lines on the ab buttons is to use Testors Micro-Sponge brushes (Photo 20). 37. Wire or fiberglass mesh- (Window screen). For inside the "frown" of your helmet. A piece 3 x 8 inches will work fine, and you can trim it as needed. 38. Safety Glasses- It never hurts to be too careful, especially when using a Dremel type tool. For your Thermal Detonator, (TD) clips: (Note: There are some GREAT pre-made TD clips you can buy on this site, and some kits include them, but you can use the following 5 items to make your own. 39. Aluminum strip- 1 inch wide 40. Screws- Size #6 pan-head slotted screws **, 1/2 inch long, You will need 4. (Photo 21). NOTE: The CRLs have been updated and round head screws are permitted, but they must be the slotted (not philips) style. 41. Hacksaw- For cutting the aluminum strip. 42. Drill- Electric or battery operated, with various size bits. 43. Vise grip OPTIONAL ITEMS: 44. Heat sealing iron- For making return edges. Not normally needed, but there are some great tutorials on this here on FISD. Try it on a scrap first, though! 45. Soldering Iron- For making holes in nylon strapping and sealing the ends. Pretty inexpensive, and worth the cost! (Photo 22) 46. Plasti-Dip- A black rubberized coating you can spray inside your helmet, (also available in a brush-on). Or, you can use spray paint. Just remember to sand and prime first! 47. Heat gun- Not normally needed. For shaping ABS. Use this CAREFULLY, and practice on scraps first until you get the hang of it. These things can reach 1500 degrees and melt your armor. 48. CA (super) glue- Not recommended for first time builders, as it is PERMANENT, and you can't fix mistakes. Also, if it drips on your armor it is nearly impossible to remove. It can also become brittle over time, causing connections to fail. 49. Acetone- For use ONLY in making ABS paste for filling small gaps, (see tutorials). Do NOT put this directly on your armor, as it will melt it. 50. SUGRU- This is an easy way to attach the lenses in your helmet. Tutorial located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44593-how-to-attach-lenses-using-sugru/ 51. Respirator- An informative post was made by Clint, (cm325i) concerning the effects of E-6000 glue on some individuals. Definitely worth a read: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33347-e6000-warnings-read-them-and-wear-a-respirator/ 52. Cut resistant gloves- Especially helpful if you are prone to cutting yourself. Available online for about $12.00 (Photo 23) E-6000 update: Please note that there are certain online retailers (including those in Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000 or "knock-offs" like these: The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube. They do not sell to distributors in Asia, so if you try to save a few bucks by ordering from a seller there it is not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is garbage and will not hold up. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. IMPORTANT UPDATE! To make life easier, Ray (Dieltski) made this into an awesome Google spreadsheet, which you can download to keep track and add notes! Just click here. Thanks, Ray! .

Hey everybody, Just dropping by to say hello, I've just joined the 501st Ireland Garrison Forums and now joined up here as I'm looking to start my first Stormtrooper build! I'm extremely excited and decided to join up to find the best and most cost effective way to put together the Stormtrooper costume!.. If you have any tips or tricks, best tools or best vendors and techniques to pull it off please let me know! I can't wait to get started. Cheers Ryan

Thank you Sir! You are truly a Scholar and a Gentleman. Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

This thread may be of help

Woo-hoo - down to the dirty dozen! Interesting to see the best of the last

Thank you TKSpartan!

OP (MV) Post #41: Testors Enamel Paint Finish Test, Vocoder Practice, & Teeth Sanding Question While painting the black trap outlines mentioned in my previous post, I couldn't help but notice the stark difference in the finish of the semi-gloss enamel paint and the gloss I used in my gray test pieces when attempting to color match my thermal detonator. A while back I expressed interest in painting my vocoder and mix tips with a matte black to add some contrast to the helmet, like Dan (CableGuy) has done on occasion. However, since I've been seeking L3 approval, I decided against it. As mentioned in Joseph's OTTK Quick Reference Guide and per screen-references, the vocoder should have a gloss or satin (semi-gloss) finish. Perhaps my discovery of the stark difference between the gloss and semi-gloss Testors 1139 paint will enable me to maintain a not-so-shiny vocoder after all, by using the semi. For your consideration and my own experience (practice) in painting curves, I painted three test vocoders onto some spare ABS from ATA. (Don't worry, I cut out all my exterior cover strips and still had about 70% of my spare sheets left; although I did consider painting onto the hidden insides of my rear drop boxes). First I took measurements of my actual vocoder on my helmet then drew scale (within 2mm) outlines on ABS scrap that was perfectly sized when scored and snapped into thirds. I then used a medium filbert (rounded edges for rounded paint lines) brush and stepped up through the paint finishes, starting with flat and ending in gloss. From left to right (or top to bottom) below they are shown in the order of flat, semi-gloss (satin), and then gloss. Do you vocoder veterans (haha) think the semi-gloss will pass L3 muster? I mean, it should, since it's the recommended paint and finish, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. Additionally, almost immediately after starting to paint I noticed that the more paint I applied, the smoother the surface would be, since the enamel would essentially "pool" together. So for the purpose of testing the paint finish, I took advantage of this and went heavy with my application, knowing that such a strategy would likely be impossible on the actual three-dimensional vocoder on my helmet. I figured, too, that I would still gain at least some experience in painting the tight, smooth, consistent curves of the vocoder, even if only testing on a 2D plane sheet. It does appear that I lost some of the crisp corners between the ridges on the full gloss iteration. I'm not sure if that's due to haste/sloppiness on my part, or any extra "pooling" qualities of the glossy enamel. The semi-gloss vocoder has some oily-looking textures on the surface, which I'm going to attribute to the mineral spirits that I cleaned my brush with and quickly reused after the flat paint. The 2nd and 6th ridges of my vocoder match the form of the actual ridges on my ATA helmet, and their heights are perhaps more similar to Hero lids than Stunt lids. I'm sure it would be mentioned, but would maintaining this height hold me back from L3 approval? With a successful paint test on a flat plane, I thought it'd be prudent to also practice on a sloped surface. For these next tests I used only the Testors 1139 semi-gloss black, and I implemented two techniques. First, I used the same thick paint method as before, and then I tried a thinner application, with the goal of seeing if any running would occur. Buried in my scrap ABS collection I found the two quarter spheres that were trimmed from my thermal detonator and I drew vocoder-like ridges in two different directions in order to test the pull of gravity on multiple axes. Nerd alert. As you can see, my thick paint application was very susceptible to running, and though not as discernable in the photos, even my thinner application had some "pooling," though it all remained within the overall bounds of the paint lines. I love the nearly perfect smooth surface that I was able to achieve with the thick gloss in my first flat test, but I've come to the conclusion that those same results will be unobtainable on my actual vocoder. I've even contemplated going heavy and only painting parts of the vocoder at a time, but the sacrifice would be seams between the paint stages, and that will be equally bothersome to me. Do any of you have any tips for getting a smooth, consistent surface finish on your vocoder? I also have another question regarding the very bottom of the vocoder that extends to the head opening. The first image of each set below shows my tentative paint outline pencil marks, and I'm wondering if I should keep the ridge curve as-is, or narrow it a bit (see second photos) to match the profile of the overall vocoder curve. I know, a tiny detail that I'm certain wouldn't make a difference for approval at any level, but I'm curious to hear your opinions. Lastly, I have a teeth sanding question which I'd like some input on. When using needle files on my teeth I tried to sand in a somewhat inward direction on the tops and bottoms to help hide the thickness of the cut/trimmed ABS, but on the left and right sides I mostly sanded straight back. My thought was that I'd paint those little 1mm edges and they'd appear to be a continuous tooth surface, but would that give each tooth too much depth? Do I instead need to keep sanding inwards at a tight angle (to match the colored lines below) to effectively remove those tiny tips from visibility? As my original tooth-trimming post images show, none of these tiny edges are visible from straight on. They can only be seen when looking down onto or from below the helmet, or from the left or right. Will the Testors 1139 semi-gloss black on the vocoder pass L3 muster? Would maintaining the shown height on my 2nd and 6th vocoder ridges hold me back from L3 approval for this STUNT build? Any tips for getting a smooth, consistent surface finish on your vocoder? I'm wondering if I should keep the vocoder ridge curve as-is, or narrow it a bit (see second photos above) to match the profile of the overall vocoder curve. How should I handle sanding and painting (on the teeth) the edges between each tooth (from the ABS depth/thickness)? Lens Installation Hovi Tip Recess Reinforcement Final Eye Trimming & Sanding Helmet Interior Painting Paul and Justin - Thanks for your thoughts! Your input is always valued and welcome!

Welcome to FISD Sebastian! I look forward to seeing your photos once the RS suit arrives and welcoming you to legion once you are approved. Your GML Daniel, will be your go to man for that application, he is very good and also was a Deployment officer here, so can certainly make sure you are ready to go for the higher levels of approval done here on FISD. Once again, welcome.

More progress.

Yes, the jewelry caps are not the best and require more tedious cutting and sanding to get the right look. Plus the walls are super thin so they don't nice used on the thicker 9.2mm tube. Visually not well-balanced. Thanks for your feedback. I feel better now going with the decorative screw caps. I just ordered more to work on over the holiday break. Good point about the tubes. Agreed, the ABS clear tubes are looking to be the material of choice if I make lots of these power cylinders. And those needle files will probably do the job better than me fussing around with my dremel. If I can fabricate some cheap jig set up to keep the tubes perfectly straight, then I think this will greatly increase my success rate and speed up production. Perhaps I can make the brass or aluminum ones as an upgrade if I solve the notch issue. Thanks also about the capacitors. Not sure they are perfect but hopefully they pass for replica looking capacitors. I have some really fine drill bits to make holes but would like to try your idea first.

Photos posted Took me a minute to figure out how to post from imgur, never used it before.

Putting some pressure on the tops then wrapping tape around can help pull in trouble areas

Okay, I've started using E6000 to glue the forearms together. It was a bit more difficult than I thought, but I eventually figured it out (with some minor overspill in places). I couldn't keep the thing together to glue it all at once, so I settled with gluing the coverstrips first, and then one side at a time. After having to redo the front strip several times, I finally got into a workable hold.

thank you so much. this is exactly what I was hoping to hear

mKing forward progress!!!

When you order a commission build from RS , they send you a sizing form . You take loads of measurements , fill in the form , and they make the armour to fit you . If you want armour that looks like it did in the movie, RS is the only choice . Every comission build is custom tailored to fit the customer .

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44242-anovos-ot-tk-now-has-replacement-parts-avail/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44435-anyone-know-what-type-of-hero-helmet-this-is/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 11 complete https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27040-rt-mod-build/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39014-plastidip/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 12 complete https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43340-repairing-pvc-crack/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43372-rs-prop-masters-measurements/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 13 complete https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42556-after-two-years-of-waiting/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 14 complete https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40067-tkuk-armor-is-it-a-rippoff/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42173-rs-commission-approval-issues/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35214-anovos-belt-replacing/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42117-rs-propmaster-fail-in-bulding/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 15 complete

welcome. Your in the right spot.

The caps made from jewelry strap ends (A) look a bit off to me, while the decorative metal screw end caps (B, C & D) look like a perfect fit. Wouldn't worry about the tube material, as it gets painted anyway, like you already said. Go with what is easy to get and work with. Would suggest such a set of needle files for this (of course cheaper ones). The square and flat files will be good to use with the clear ABS tubes (better than AL or brass tubes). The capacitors, well, they simply look perfect. Grab a thin wire, heat one end with a lighter and push it into the melting plastic to get those wires for connecting to the base plate. Or pre-drill with a very small drill bit.

@justjoseph63 great eye. The Heavy Weapons Trooper CRL also explains the backpack, orange pauldron, absence of drop boxes and thermal detonator, and of course heavy weathering. I started reading Cricket's thread and especially like the diagrams. Living in a townhouse with a youngling makes a suit build or substantial mods a challenge, so TBD if we'll work on that suit for me or if I'll serve in a support role for Harry (aka Mr. Jennifer to @Harder) for a while. We're an easy drive to Dave's Darkside Depot, and we like his customer service and options so we're headed that route for Harry. @WhiteWalker, thank you for the warm welcome. I registered on the FL501st board and posted an intro, checked a few other posts. Just got my approval for the FB group. Didn't get the photos tonight, maybe later this week if I get off before 6.

Thanks, folks! It's an honor to be here! Sent from my Imperial Comlink

That's a plus 1 here, my backpack is pre updated HWT requirements and is long overdue for an update.

I did it!! I gotta tell you, I'm also finishing up my master's degree right now. I just submitted the initial draft of my thesis to my advisors. BUT...receiving my approval to join the 501st through the Golden Gate Garrison from @RickyBoyBlue made me throw my arms up in triumph!! My wife rolled her eyes So proud to be joining this fine organization. Thanks for the support!! Just waiting on that TKID...

So after working sixty hours a week I finally have some time. Vents covered and frown screen.

So, a lot of people jump in with both feet not really knowing the cost ramifications of going 100% complete on their TK. We look around at armor makers and get their pricing and think, "wow thats a lot, but ok." Then they realize there are accessories to add to the suit, and tools to build the suit and strapping, snaps, bolts and so on. So my goal here is to help people by laying out a general cost reference for the stuff they will ned to buy. This way you can make an educated decision about your finances how you will make a TK work so it does not break the bank and have you selling it a few months later. This will be a range type pricing. There are parts that are more expensive and some that are lower cost. At the very end, to help you with the accessories and armor, I have put links to the ongoing accessories listing and well as the approved armor vendors listing. These posts help compile ways to contact the sellers who have the required parts. One little tip as well, just because something is a different cost then another doesn't make it worse/better than the next item available. When you read through the sale thread for the individual items, you can also read the reviews to get a feel for the quality of an item. People with a bad history or a bad product aren't allowed to sell here. So do the research and make an educated decision. The FISD does not dictate pricing to sellers, so you are the only one who can decide what price is right for the item you want, thats why there are multiple sellers for most items. To start, the most important bit: The armor (with helmet) - The pricing ranges widely depending on accuracy, type of scupt (fan vs screencopy) and quality. Some of the lower end pricing does not include a helmet! Keep this in mind when you do the research on armor makers and make sure that you get a helmet with the suit as well. Price range: $550-$1500 Any set of armor that you can find here on the FISD through the approved sellers will look great if you build it right. The suits on the higher end of the spectrum are like luxury cars. Do you need them? Not really, but it's so nice to have them and the attention to the finer details really sets them apart. The Rest - This is the part that people sometimes forget about. These are pieces like the boots, the cloth belt, holster and so many other little things that help you to complete the suit. These parts I am detailing aren't optional (with the exception of the blaster) so in order to get approval from the Legion and join us, you will need every single item I am detailing. Many of these prices do not take into account shipping fees, since I can't detail them all and they vary wildly between sellers location and your location. Most are very fair here on shipping costs though. I will detail the expected pricing for these parts and then will recap everything at the end. Boots - There are several options for these. There are sellers who have white leather bots that are made especially for stormtroopers. These are the accurate style and the leather is dyed white so you never have to worry about chips to the paint. The other option is to go with black Jodphur boots, get some white leather paint, prep and paint the boots. This is how they did it in the films and is likely to be cheaper then the white leather route, but involves more work, up front and in the end. So you have to decide on if you're willing to trade ease of use for film replica style. Price range: $60-$100 Neck Seal - This part is generally custom made to order from a few different sellers to fit your neck size. Zippers, velcro and other closure types are available. Price range: $35-$80 Rubber Gloves/Hand Guards - This is one of those parts that isn't 100% required. The gloves yes! However they do not need to be rubber for basic approval, they can be black form fitting gloves, just check on the CRL for the specific requirements depending on the level of certification you are aiming for. Most armor vendors will include a set of ABS plastic hand guards with the armor, so unless you're going for a higher level of accuracy certification with the FISD, the ones with the armor will do. On the other hand, if you want to get centurion LV3 certification, you will need to get rubber gloves and latex/silicone handguards. Price range: $25-$50 depending on options Undersuit - Easily overlooked, this is one of the most important parts of the whole setup! You will want a plain black suit either 2 or 1 piece construction and it should be form fitting with no excess fabric hanging around. The best is any type of compression wear made for under sports clothes/suits to keep the wearer cooler/warmer based on the weather and construction. The best place to find these are at any general department store like WallMart (US) or a sporting goods store. If you decide on a 1piece suit, make sure there is a zipper to go pee. It's hard enough to get out of a 1 piece without having to worry about bathroom pressure. Price range: $30-$120 for the top and bottom. Holster - Most times these are made from leather, but can also be imitation leather. Price range: $30-$70 Cloth Belt - This is the belt that the ABS ammo belt attaches to and goes around your waist to connect at your back and you hang your TD on. Price range: $30-$70. E-11 Blaster (Optional) - The blaster is optional for Legion acceptance. Not all countries allow for even toy weapons so the legion does not require them. The price ranges widely here because you can get these as kits or fully built. Most kits are pretty easy to put together and paint yourself if you have the time. Price range $80-$800 Tools - Now this is a hard to peg hole. You will need curved scissors for cutting plastic, a drill/hole puncher, a rivet tool, tools for setting snaps. Price range: $20-$100 Strapping supplies - You can go with screen accurate brackets, or you can use straps and snaps to put your armor together and hold it in place. You will need some skinny black elastic, skinny white elastic, wide black elastic, wide white elastic. For details on how skinny/wide and so on check out the replica section. You will need snaps as well. Price range: $20-$100 Recap! Here is the pricing once again, in one place with no descriptions: Armor: $550 - $1500 Boots: $60 - $100 Neck Seal: $25 - $80 Gloves/handguards: $25 - $50 Undersuit: $30 - $120 Holster: $30 - $70 Cloth Belt: $30 - $70 Blaster: $80 - $800 Tools: $20 - $100 Strapping: $20 - $100 In total: $870 - $2990 For my knowledge, most people will be right in the middle, around the $1200-$1500 range for a fully complete wearable Stormtrooper costume. Now here are a couple of this that aren't included in this list... Time required to build. Time is money. Time building it time away from your friends, family, dog, work and so on. Unless you find a way to include them! But it's not like you're working, it's a hobby and you're having.. at least you should be! You can bank about 40-50 hours of build time for your first build. This does not include time spent researching on the computer, waiting for glue to dry and so on. This is purely time sitting on front of a armor piece working. There are people who offer a build service for a price. Average cost.. ??? Not cheap. Lets break down these costs a little. An experienced builder will take 20-30 hours to build your kit, and make sure it fits to your body as best as possible. This is a specialized skill, in a niche market which means there aren't so many people doing it. If they were being paid by the hour... say $20 a hour, which should be a good rate for a specialized job. $20 per hour for 20 hours is $400 bucks. However, a builder who gets a kit done with a high level of quality and workmanship in this time frame will ask for a bit more, more like $30. Now these are just estimated. If you have questions about a builder for your armor, post on the forums, or do some research you'll find people who do builds for you and they can answer your question directly. Links: Combined on-going accessories listing Various types of armors and where to find them Good luck with your build and have fun!