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Name: Colin Adams TKID: TK-25622 Forum Name: OddViking327 Garrison: Golden Gate Garrison Height: 72.5” Weight: 198 lbs Armor Maker: AM 4.5 - Dave’s Darkside Depot Helmet Maker: AM 4.5 - Dave’s Darkside Depot Blaster Type: Imperial Arms 3D - E-11 V3 (with modifications and improvements) Boots Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: Rob Kittell Hand Plates Type: Flexible Silicone by Just Joseph Electronics: Speakers and SHA by Ukswrath, fans by me Neck Seal Type: Imperial Boots Holster Maker: Darman’s Props EIB approval thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/50259-tk-25622-requesting-stormtrooper-anh-stunt-eib-status-1007/ Armor Build Thread (page 3 shows my Centurion updates): https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49991-oddvikings-anh-stunt-build-am-45/ Blaster Build Thread (the last half details a modification for Centurion): https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/50223-imperial-arms-3d-e-11-version-3-kit/ Photos Full Body: Helmet: S-curve: Details: Blaster: Thanks for the consideration, and the very helpful suggestions in my build threads that got my kit to this point! For the Empire!

Hi Ken, and THANKS for submitting for Centurion! You went above and beyond on those fixes, brother, and the seams look fantastic. Unfortunately, there are 2 issues that we noticed... one that may need to be addressed and one super quick fix. It may very well be the photo angles, but your ear screws really appear to have a convex curve on the tops (Truss head) as opposed to the flat, counter-sunk type required for Level 3. Can you post up some close-up/side views for us? Reference images If they are indeed the Truss head type, you can find the correct flat-head, slotted countersunk style at ACE hardware (link here to ones in SoCal) or any specialty hardware store (Lowe's or Home Depot do not normally carry them). Alternatively, I can shoot you a set (no charge) if you pay postage (about 4 bucks). PM me if you need this option. As Glen pointed out, as per the CRL for Centurion "The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt" We see this on occasion, but you are fortunate in the fact that you have enough material at the ends to effectively trim them without going too close to the button plates (exactly as he has shown in his diagram). EASY fix with a pair of tin-snips or a couple of careful cuts with a razor knife... should take you all of 5 minutes! Reference images Looking sharp, sir, and I look forward to seeing the updated results soon... you can do this!

Aight here it is, guys... took some time to lay it all out and triage the good, the bad, and well, the ugly! So if you don't already know, I'm in the final stages of wrapping up my ROTK build (I know, I know, I'll finish that before I begin any work in earnest on this one!) and I really like the way Jim's armor is made and was keeping an eye open for sales or discounts on perhaps picking up a set. I actually had purchased a B-grade set of KB Props armor super cheap, but wasn't too stoked on an ABS build in general and decided to give it up (and a few other things) in a little yard sale to go towards an FO. And wouldn't you know it, a fully painted and assembled suit popped up for sale here on FISD that was only about an hour's drive away to go get! I hit @Dynamic1 up and ended up driving down to swoop up his kit. I got what I felt was a pretty darn good deal, but there is of course a good deal of work to do to bring the kit both up to being in good repair, and further to my generally high standards. I'll go through all the things I'm stoked about, and the stuff that concerns me below (with some pics!) So strap in, here's another Rascal build (rebuild? upgrade?) comin' your way. The GOOD: - The kit is fully assembled, and Brian is about the same height and weight as me (though much more muscular, but FO's are kind of top-heavy anyways, and the biceps fit fine). - The kit was available locally and didn't need to be shipped (Orange County to north San Diego county isn't close, but definitely not far!). - The kit is fully painted!!! And pretty darn well, with almost all the pinholes and imperfections filled, and with a easily available Krylon rattle-can white... but there are some issues (see further below). - It included a set of boots (too small, but I can sell em and recoup some cost since I have a pair from Imperial Boots for my ROTK already), gloves (TrooperBay ones I may replace with EndorFinders), and even a blaster (3D-printed that I may replace as well). The Hengstler counter bit fell off but I have it somewhere, no worries. It has pretty bad print lines and I juuuuuust don't want to sand it, so it will likely be replaced, but is great for now! - It included a metal R2Dan holster already! It wasn't paint-matched very well, but I can respray it. - I stopped by @Oztrooper 's house to drop off some stuff for @equuspolo and he happened to have a fresh Anovos ABS FO helmet up for grabs and offered it to me at a reasonable price, so I grabbed it! Wasn't expecting to purchase it just yet, but it worked out. He had already done some of the mods I'd want to do anyways, including reshaping the duckbill a bit with heat, adding a rubber neckseal trim, and a metal aerator tip from VaderPainter (now no longer made?). Big thanks to him for the convenient hookup. I actually had an Anovos Premier that I got an incredible (eBay) deal on, but it was just too dang heavy. The BAD and the UGLY: - The kit did not come with much in the way of strapping and what's in it, I will likely replace anyways. Step one will probably be stripping the interior and hitting it with a quick coat of flat white touchup. It looks like it was a mix of velcro and snaps, but I've been messing with magnets a lot lately, hmmm.... - Severalll pieces of the kit will need to be sanded and repainted due to scuffs (like this knee that I already started sanding). Some other pieces may clean up with a polish. I would prefer not to have to repaint the whole kit, but I learned a lot from my last rodeo and will see how much it bugs me. - Jim's kit in general does not have a couple features that may hold me up for Centurion if I choose to go there (have you met me before tho? haha) - the forearm wrist boxes are molded in, as are the ab belt boxes. Perhaps I can add a small groove to simulate them being separate pieces? ( @shashachu @justjoseph63 @TKSpartan would that fly?) - All the small accent details are stickers - I will likely paint most them on and replace the chest/shin/bicep bits with the proper cutout/gaff tape combo. - The back yoke is cracked at the shoulders pretty bad, which scares me, but also makes it a prime candidate for @ukswrath 's shoulder bell bracket/reinforcement/support thing. I probably will NOT run the strapping THROUGH the yoke like you're supposed to, but fiberglassing the bracket in may be a good way to both repair and update its accuracy. - The ab boxes have some pretty bad cracks, likely from being flexed up while suiting up/down. These and the shoulders are the worst of it, but there are a few small stress cracks in other places that I MAY address... these I will for SURE. - At least one little greebly fell off, but they'd probably benefit from switching out the velcro with the new Ultra-Thin stuff I came across in my other build thread! - The belt is the proper sandwich of three materials, but needs to be reglued, as it has largely separated. Brian said the belt was a giant pain in the butt, like my RO, so I'm glad it's already pretty much done. I think that's all for now... just wanted to do some triage and get some pics up to show you (and myself) what I'm up against. I may be able to rig up some strapping and try it on in the next couple weeks, but this will likely be 2021's project. I'll post more once I've finished my RO (updates on that coming soon) and work on this begins! Thanks for stopping by and joining in on the madness once again!

Painted the grey on the ears and upper back areas. currently working on the teeth (which have been a pain to tape off), then to paint the brow and neck rims black (I'll post pics once both are done). Also, I'll be releasing the Rogue One inspired versions of the helmets for free, which were modeled for me by my friend Skylu3D. Use and edit them how you like, but remember to credit Once everything with my current helmet file is figured out, that will be released (either for buying or free). Phase 3 Rogue One v1: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hn6QW9nAtP4bhwhC6u8QJ_XPwJKvFmqX/view?usp=sharing Phase 3 Rogue One v2: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a0L2xgB-zXguqfX7KxO4bOqxAoYOJ2Lp/view?usp=sharing

Hi all, this week I decided to buy a RS Kit. I have ordered today. I was waiting for black Friday :). So the decision is finaly made

Thank you Glen. There’s no weathering on the E-11 grip. I forgot to update that photo when I corrected the weathering for EIB. Large Tabs Rrmoved Voice Coder Gap Filled Han Snap Ab Rivets Close Up (Front and Back) Sniper Plate Front The belt was a dressing issue. I most likely shifted the one side while trying to adjust something else during my photos. Should I suit up again and resubmit my 4 body poses? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you so much for making time for my review for centurion. I have already corrected the frown issue so we can start smiling again soon. Blaster is a non issue and the fault lies in the photo angle. I believe the Counter is placed in the correct place. Will upload those photos when I’m near a PC and can access my Imgur account. (Silly cel phone) Been in contact with RTMOD and I am waiting for cost of parts and shipping quote. A new ammo belt, button covers, and ab button covers will be obtained. In addition I gotta order a new belt from Kittell because the one that didn’t make the cut, has 5 years of troops on it and the inner parts that keep it firm have deteriorated. Yep, the whole thing is getting redone. I’m hopeful these fixes will not take very long, but I’ll get them corrected and knock this out of the park!!

I'd you cut the cover strip to follow the curve of the inner half of the thighs, then cut off the excess plastic on the outer pieces, it will make it more comfortable and look neater. Good job so far!

Just a suggestion from screen reference material not a requirement, I'm sure the DO's will pass as is.

Glen thanks for the assist! As you can see I’ve been able to access and post. Danke Schoen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The kit fits you well, if you need more room around your inner leg just add some foam to the outer inside of the thigh, it might help your thigh pieces rubbing when you walk because they look like they might rub. Great job, basic should be an easy pass.

Congratulations trooper, welcome to EIB!

TK-60446 Requesting Stormtrooper Access. Dennis Mueller Garrison Carida https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=32825 https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=32825&costumeID=124 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Ken, good luck brother. You got this. Nice build. Glen has you covered on the changes or adjustments. But all in all really nicely done. Look forward to trooping again

Had to remind the youngling... “it’s that time of year, and Anakin is always watching!”

Congratulations Dennis

Nice work trooper, a couple of suggestions before the DO's get here: You could drop your TD down a little more on the belt Belt is drooping quite a bit at the back, it could be lifted a little to follow the angle of the plastic belt section You could remove the curved section from the sniper plate TD screws could be closer to the end of the brackets Belt corners should meet the width of the belt: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. Can't quite make out your ab/kidney rivets could you post a close up image of them please Good luck with approval

Psh, even I didn't necessarily know it was coming! hahaha I told myself I never wanted to mess with gaskets and that I wouldn't, but I was starting to run out of white armor to noodle with and I don't think people want to see an ROTJ as much as they do an FOTK! I came across this great deal when I wasn't even really looking and it was too hard to pass up. Hey, it's white and shiny... but I don't want you guys drawing colored lines on it and I think some of the paint is outside the lines :P

What if you apply your guitar for EIB and Centurion? Good luck mate!! looking forward for your advances.

Looking forward to see the progress

IT’S OFFICIAL! You know, by the time all this craziness is over you may even have had time to convert your ROTK to a Mimban, and then maybe this TFA TK to another variation as well. Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Also, as for the difference in the ridge height at the bottom of the thigh, I would like it up alone the top of the ridge, so that the cover strip can butt up against it evenly.

An interesting project for sure. Here is a little info on new to the legion costumes: New to the Legion Costumes (NTTL) Whenever you begin work on a “New to the Legion” costume, it is always best to connect with the Legion Membership Officer and relevant Detachment before proceeding. It is recommended that a “New to the Legion” costume is not kept a secret. One of the best ways to receive feedback on a “New to the Legion” costume is to make an account with the relevant detachment forum, and solicit feedback from the membership base. An ongoing and regularly updated info-page, New to the Legion Costumes in Progress is kept, listing out costumes with links to their designated Detachments. Effective January 2016, the 501st Legion requires that all “New to the Legion” costumes must have a CRL before being approved in the database. A “New to the Legion Costume” is a costume that has no CRL. Below are the steps for a “New to the Legion” costume and how it is added to the membership database. Contact [email protected] and ensure the costume is applicable for inclusion into the 501st Legion. Please provide the following information: Name (and TKID if applicable ) Name of costume Media this character (in this exact costume) is seen in Links to reference If contact with a detachment has already been made, and links to any WIPs The GML and/or costumer will be guided to the appropriate Detachment where CRL development will then occur. Once CRL development is complete, the costume will be entered into the Membership database, announced, and then the costume may be approved on current and prospective members. Notes to Keep in Mind Typically as much time will be spent researching and looking at reference sources as it will take to make / assemble the costume. Ideally, there are clear full body pictures of the front, side, and back. When in doubt, email and ask [email protected], providing all reference for the character in question. Understand that a CRL undergoes many revisions by many people before publishing and that it is possible that there are multiple people working on the same costume at the same time. There are no guidelines on creating a new costume aside from reference material, and a costumer may be asked to change things multiple times. Understand that a CRL is not intended to be a detailed how-to on costume construction; rather it is a visual guide to be used for 501st costume approval. Detailed instructions, designs, and specific measurements are to be recorded within the detachment forum’s WIP documentation. The costume will not be approved in the Membership Database until all of the steps to create the CRL are completed. The wait period from completion of costume to approval can be lengthy. Pictures of the costume being worn, as well as costume parts may be requested. The first completed costume is not always the CRL model. Sometimes multiple applicants images are used to complete a CRL. Images should be captured against a simple, contrasting background, at high resolution, with good lighting. The Detachment and/or LMO may ask for assistance in writing the text of the CRL, but this is not always the case. Before any CRL goes live, it will be reviewed, edited, and approved by the LMO Team. Once approved, the new costume will be added to the membership database, and the CRL published on the wiki (Databank).