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Everything posted by TheRascalKing

  1. Welcome to the forums! I'd check out this thread of someone who recently found themselves in your situation and it may help you to know what you're in for, as well as this one with some info on that maker. Good luck and let us know how we can help!
  2. Many of us reinforce our shoulder bridges with an additional strip of pre-bent ABS underneath (and copious amounts of E6000 to bond it). This adds strength at an extremely common fail point and gives the bottom a smooth surface that would likely velcro better... if it doesn't eliminate the need entirely - no velcro should be needed, just a little loop of elastic. Hope that helps!
  3. Just little chips of your same ABS (or scrap/dust, but CLEAN... like I wouldn't get it off the floor) and stir in an appropriate container (I use a tiny glass/metal mason jar) adding acetone until you hit your desired consistency. Once mixed and smooth (avoiding whipping air bubbles in) slather it on where needed. You can use it as a glue as well, but 2part epoxy will hold better. You may want to do some body filler or glazing putty on top, but always use as little filler as possible to avoid it cracking under your paint when flexed.
  4. Double check the spec sheet of the ones you get, but I wanna say the organic vapor catridges do just fine. The fumes are bad but the dust when cutting is awful for your lungs. It absolutely is affected by temp and humidity - don't let them get to hot and warp by applying too much resin at once (thin layers) or letting them sit in the sun, most importantly. Mix your resin thoroughly (I double cup) and precisely according to the directions and apply to a clean, lightly roughed up (maroon 3M pad?) surface for best results. I tried putting resin over paint once and failed haha
  5. Alone? Not really - you don't want to use it as filler since it dries so hard. But it'll help get your gaps tight so you need minimal filler, which is ideal. Most guys use Dynatron or some use ABS slurry. Assembly will probably be more like an ABS FOTK than ANH in many ways.
  6. +1 to Q - this stuff specifically does very well. Just mix thoroughly and be careful with the excess, as sometimes it dries HARDER than the materials you're bonding and can be tough to remove/sand back away. A light scuff and surface clean before gluing can help promote adhesion, as well as clamping (though it does fill gaps pretty well). Just go easy so you don't get warps. It's important to use the right tool for the job for each stage forsure - I found myself using very little E6000 compared to an typical ANH kit.
  7. Just bought a freshie today actually. The Pro version's elastic is of higher quality and didn't wear out like my last regular one. You could get away with the dust type filters for the fiberglass, but the P100 and Paint filters are pretty multi-purpose and the Pro seals well around your face. Anything is better than paper masks/nothing. https://a.co/d/0f1OgYx
  8. Justin has thought about it, but Justin is burnt out. And would need access to a 3D printer.
  9. I used a vinylester marine resin when coating mine. It still adds strength, but has some flex. Ensure you have tried on/mocked up the sizing on the suit and cut anything down that you need to first! The back of the ab, cod, butt panel, and underarm connectors required fitting for me. Wear a ventilator.
  10. I'll take the moderation if I have to. THE PEOPLE DEMAND THEM lol bf8d13f3-f0bd-4dcb-aee2-cd3989979fd3_text.mp4
  11. Awesome to see you moving forward and these are several of the EXACT fixes/upgrades I want to do to mine soon as well! Great post. That back panel is one of the least accurate parts of Jim's otherwise generally excellent sculpt, and yours nails it now and it looks very functional. Kudos.
  12. I haven't had much luck with bending ABS, but have found these work well to accomplish the same thing and with a little dab of epoxy on the butt plate side only, are now a standard addition on suits for me! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07793L26V/
  13. Hahaha thanks. I went a bit overboard. YES THO. Many things I still need to change. Namely my solution for the shoulder bridges. I used ONLY magnets to secure the chest plate and bridges to the back/sides and they failed when I leaned forward, causing the chest to fall off and crack at the front shoulder tabs. I need to do a pretty significant repair there and will likely be utilizing a new set of flexible bridges made by @BigJasoni who is also a big ROTK guy. I'd recommend using magnets as locators but maybe some velcro in a few select places to really secure things in place. I'll get back to this at some point and post some additional updates, but I have some stuff planned that's still in the works!
  14. 63. Father's Day Empire Strikes Back Showing at The Frida Cinema - Santa Ana, CA - Sun. 06/19/22 (ANH-S TK #36) First official troop in my new TK and my first in a while! Fun fact, this is actually the non-profit community art house cinema that my (now) wife and I had our first date at, so I try to come out and support whenever they request us!
  15. Hey Frank, I'd recommend starting a thread in the New Member Introductions section to introduce yourself and engage with some of our members to unlock access to the sales thread. I'll leave this up in case Johnny is interested but please ensure you're not hijacking people's threads either. Thank you!
  16. You'll find the requirements for all 501st costumes posted in their respective CRLs. It depends on what helmet you're talking about, but you'll find the list of FISD CRLs here, including the most popular, which is the A New Hope Stunt Stormtrooper variant. I don't believe there are any requirements as to the inside of the helmet (other than lens material and the frown mesh) as it is not visible, but I would recommend some fans in there! Hope that helps!
  17. This isn't a cheap hobby to look good in, but you can get a lot done if you research, research, research - and you're in the right place now. I'd suggest starting in the... Getting Started section? https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/
  18. I added several pics from the Celebration exhibit if they help and have had some 'experience' with the kit...
  19. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/243-anthology-variant-incinerator-and-artillery-build-threads/ A CRL for the live action Incinerator has not yet been created because no one has built and submitted a decently screen accurate version, though I know a few are underway at the above link. It should be noted that this costume uses the New Generation/Rogue One style armor, so it would likely not be approvable with an ANH conversion. The one from the games can be done with OT armor by changing it more to ROTJ style. Good luck!
  20. It is indeed! It's been slow going, but E-11s should be all caught up or darn near it. Happy to see these out in the wild again, and paired with some BEAUTIFUL armor no less! Great work Matt, and this should be a slam dunk!
  21. Mike @TK-4510 makes MTK armor as part of his TrooperBay business and is in Poway, if that helps! Unsure he (or really anyone anymore) does like direct sales, but you can always reach out! Lots of other good options to explore here as well. Research is key, but please avoid making multiple threads for the same question.
  22. Congratulations to you both, and I was happy to nominate you for your hard work that certainly doesn't go unnoticed! THANK YOU and keep it up!
  23. People are starting to receive their soft goods after all... Man I hope this is for real FINALLY, but things are looking promising with Denuo! Boots and gloves look great, just a little more textured of a grain leather than Imperial Boots' offering, but hopefully they start offering the soft goods separate (and delivering them) as well. Would be nice to have more options! Photo credit to Javier if he's on here!
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