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Star Wars Show, TROS props piece, SONN-BLAS at end,

First off, nice work, looking good, just a couple of tweaks you could address. Notice your left shoulder is sitting up more than the right, is should also sit over the bicep, not quite correct on the right either, just compare to the CRL image below, you may need to shorten those straps. Also the forearms need to rotate inwards, the cover strips should line up on the biceps and forearms. You have one drop box being pushed backwards. Slightly different gap at the top of the thighs, rotate the right thigh inwards. Left shoulder strap on rear sitting under back plate, could be the issue with your shoulder sitting up high Everything else looks pretty good to me, trying to get the correct look while wearing the costume is hard and does help if you have someone on had that knows the costume. A couple of tweaks and you should be ok, good luck with approval.

Thank you, I’ll see about modding that at a later time. I also checked the CRL and it says that separate wrist boxes are for Centurion, so it shouldn’t be a problem for basic approval. I would like to go for Centurion, but I’m not sure if it’s my goal at the moment. If I were to mod it though, I would maybe 3D print another forearm box, and slip it on overtop.

The pre approval threads are an excellent resource. I only found them after I was finished building and stumbled on them and submitted my own pre approval thread. Everyone is great and an even better resource. The command staff is amazing and super helpful. Best of luck!

Agreed with Glen's comments! Minor thing that won't affect approval but you see on your right side how the ab and kidney aren't vertically lined up, and they should, ideally. You could add something here to help them line up. Don't think you'll encounter any issues with approval once you address those minor issues. Good luck!

T-track weathering is no more.

Hi everyone, I realized that I did not upload my Praetorian DLT. So I just added that to the timeline of the submissions and also posting it here. I feel that I owe this photo for future references as well. Thank you everyone for all of your support. The other is a heavy duty fine 3D printed DLT that I sanded and coated with layers of paint that made it much stronger. It is pretty darn durable and light weight. Then painted it. This is the Praetorian DLT and it is much heavier but also that heavy duty foam rubber. So it is very durable and resilient. I thought I owed this photo as I listed the blaster and did not present it. So here it is. Thank you again everyone for all of the encouragement and support. By the way, my changes for Centurion are already done, now I just need to have time to photograph it all. Just a few photos to show the changes and it will be up. Thank you. Ardeshir

Hey everyone! Back with another update! First off... Shins I've glued the outsides of the shins together, and then added a strip of Velcro down the insides. Now the shins are almost done. Here's a funny looking picture of the glueing setup. Also I took a page out of TheSwede's book, er build thread and clipped the corners of the inner strips. Just because no-one sees it doesn't mean it can't look nice! Shoulder Connectors Trimmed and almost ready for glueing. Knees Knees are trimmed as well. Untrimmed Trimmed Forearms The forearms are almost ready to be glued, I just have a question about the wrist end. At the moment, I can get my hand through, although it's kinda a squeeze. So can I take any more of the edge off? Or is it about right. (I also need to finish sanding) And thats pretty much it. Until next time

This community is awesome. I've spent months looking over the forums checking out the various reputed dealers. Can't decide between a biker scout or ANH build but so excited to get started. Just wanted to thank all those that have come before, your enthusiasm has made this a far easier world to enter.

I noticed that your brow also is a bit long. That’s typical for rs. I’d cut the brow back a little, it shouldn’t keep you from basic but still want to be as accurate as possible.

That's funny you mention weight, because.. that's how much I weigh. 5'8... 135 lbs... I thought the Emperor stopped using clones for his armies!

Thanks Daniel! That's the pic I was thinking of.

How shoulder bells idealy is trimmed. The left is what to aim for, bell from the Lucas archives and the right is a shepperton with a straight edge. On my phone so it was the best pic I had at the moment. I suggest you leave atleast a slightly return as it add to the feel of actuall armor. The armor is not designed for comfort or to have a great range of motion, I think you look great.

It is 3D printed but it’s something I got off eBay or maybe ETSY ages ago. I’ll see if I can dig up old emails. It’s not bad hey!

Hey Thomas, looking good so far! As far as the fit of the chest piece, I wouldn't go trimming things just yet. Check out the fit of the chest pieces on this pic and how the shoulder bells sit. There isn't much space between the shoulder bells and chest. If you want to trim anything, you could trim the shoulder bells a bit so they flare out at the bottom. Check out the trooper second from the left - his left shoulder bell appears to be trimmed more at the botton (away from the chest). Sorry I don't have a better picture - I am resource limited right now. You can also see that the forearms sit pretty close to the bicep. You want it to be comfortable to wear, but just remember it is easy to trim plastic off - it is tougher to put it back on. Keep up the great work.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, like you said there are plenty of ways to do the strapping. Do you not like snaps since you can't really adjust the size after the fit? Me and my Dad are being careful with the CA Glue, and we do know the downsides. Not to toot my own horn or sound up myself, but me and him do have a lot of modeling experience (like tanks, airplanes you name it) so we are confident in ourselves in not making a mistake. That being said if we do make a mistake it will be harder to reverse. We may be building a second set of armour after this first one, so we may use E-6000 then

Hi, reading from the following post : To keep them in line and prevent them from overlapping, it is suggested that you LEAVE a fair amount of the edges on the top/bottoms of the kidney and bottom of the back plate, especially if using the "classic" strapping method. Yes, these can split/crack as well but not normally. I think You can start by trimming little by little the sides. Cheers

SMALL UPDATE Since me and my dad have decided to go for Cert 3, we need to do another shopping run! Thin White Elastic (for the shoulder straps) White webbing 38 mm (for the shoudler straps) Black Elastic 38mm (to hold up the thigh plates) Paracute buckles (to construct the under belt) Various foam (for inside padding) Tube pipe 65mm (for the thermal detanator) Split rivets 8mm (for the side rivets) and then the paint for my bucket!

I think you need to get clarification from the GML as to what they want you to do. Is it possible to meet up with the GML? Maybe get some hands on guidance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always best to check the CRL's and with your GML when every in doubt, some members may have been approved long before updates had been made. Standard thigh, notice the raised ridges are just next to the coverstrip Compared with yours which are extremely wide and then you have triangle cover strips which are half that gap. A lot of people add in shims, ideal way would be to cut the sides add space them out so the ridges come back to the middle not like you have there, then add ABS paste in the gaps/joons, sand and polish, sometimes paint and some filler may be needed depending on how the ABS paste dries and it's coloring. ABS paste thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ A rough example of what I mean You could give your GML a copy of the image above and ask if that is what they are desiring I know a few garrisons have approved really large triangle cover strips in the past but it's not a very nice look and most GML's won't approve them.

Copy that

Fast work, and great job! Looks heaps better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Alrighty, KB forearm mod is basically completed, just need some black styrene. I think it looks much better, and it was relatively simple to do! First use the cutting wheel tool of the Dremel to make a small cut. Then go in with Lexan scissors and make it bigger, but not too far. Finally, finish cleaning up the edges with a needle file and, done!

In addition to subtle weathering, something you might consider is applying various shades and sheens of paint. This can make the prop look more realistic when the individual components work together. Using real fasteners can also add realism to the prop. For my resin build I used a variety of techniques and paints.

I have some tutorials here and here that may help as well, but as Tony mentioned the pieces are cut to fit your body. As I recommend to all new builders, start a thread in this area so that you can post photos and ask all the questions you want to. If in doubt, always ask before cutting or gluing!

Here's a vocoder on an original ANH helmet. Judge for yourself.

They made great base stands for 3.75" and 6" Star Wars figures :>

Just making my annual post to stay active on the detachment forum. Hey folks. No changes to my membership, armor updates, or anything. Everything's good.

Here's my take on some additional wheel covers : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4127480

Best advice I've heard....wish I could win the lottery and fill my closet with armor instead of clothes

Hey all! Got an early Christmas present in the form of a receipt for an ANH stunt kit from Paul over at TM! This is my first kit and I'm BEYOND excited to get to join the ranks of the 501st as well as make some great memories for myself and others. I do have some trepidations, however. In a nutshell, I fit the height for the kits at around 5'10", but am way on the skinny side, especially in the waist at 30". I've seen talk of people padding armor, and others bending it w/ a heat gun. What would you folks reccommend for someone in my position? If you're in the same boat as me, what did you/are you doing to offset it? Thanks in advance!

Hi Chris, I used the routing piece on the dremel.