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Thanks to a great friend, Derrek (DDay), I was able to obtain some nice sterling smg parts. Thank you billions Derrek! His kit paved the way to a whole new era of E-11 kit building and these parts were the backbone of his endeavors. Also these parts are in fact the exact ones seen in the Blaster Reference Photo Compendium. Some parts I have added to the lot recently for alternative molding choices and some to replace (the bolt). I am honored to be the next caretaker and hope to see what new life I can add to them. Another special thanks to Aaron (Usaeatt2) as he was instrumental in bringing each piece to its full glory. He put a ton of work into making these parts ready to mold part for part. He also helped guide me on a number of things with these parts like how to remove the D ring from the end cap undamaged. His knowledge on these parts has been invaluable and deeply appreciated. Here is what I have in total: (Some parts missing from the photo as they were being molded. Some smaller pins/springs and parts are missing and I will replace at a later date. The only main part I do not have yet is the barrel) Over a 2 week period during the midnight hours of my summer break I was able to make molds of the parts. Hoping to test them out soon. Unfortunately I had to leave the parts back home to avoid breaking any international laws. TSA actually upheld the box of molds and it was forwarded to me a few days after I got back to Japan. Luckily there is not offense to send silicone gun part molds abroad. So for now I will cast what I can with the molds and also create sub castings as my master molds for future castings until I get back to the US in the future. This is just a test and see project so hopefully the results will be good. Already there are amazing other resin blaster kit/part makers like RA Props (http://www.stormtrooperblaster.com/the-stormtrooper-blaster-project.html) and Doopys is not a bad option if you successfully get one, but since casting the resin scopes I have always wanted to try my hand at casting real sterling parts. I am not expected these to be extremely clean castings. These will be fairly raw with potentially lots of areas to fill or sand. No pressure pot to use as well so that puts a cap on what I can achieve as far as total quality goes. Stay tuned for updates in the coming weeks.

Looking good so far Rat. Teeth corners should be squared. Reference photo Eye sockets could have a little less return edge. Reference photo

Hi, roger that. Will do and post the new photos once ready.

Hi and thank you for your EIB application. Mario is correct, no decal is allowed and needs to be removed. We are going through several applications at the moment so there’s time for you to remove it and post new photos

Nice looking belt, just with the size compare it to the angled cuts on the end of the plastic section if you will be aiming for L3: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

This evening i spent about 45 minutes to cover all the parts that should not be painted silver... the paintjob itself took about 5 minutes in total... Tomorrow i will reveal the finish... Have a great evening guys...!

Some updates! This may be a long one... Realized that I don't think I ever posted my helmet... but here it is! Arrived safe and sound. The detail is impressive and while it is decently sturdy and very lightweight, I will definitely be reinforcing it - I don't think it would take impact or a fall from any height well. I also mentioned having had my undersuit tailored... well, here's some pics of that too! It fits much better now that a lot of the slack was taken out. It's still a bit loose so I have good mobility, but we'll see if I end up needing to have it taken in more once there's armor on top. I'm wearing a black t-shirt underneath so you can't see where the mesh is that well, but the internet didn't need to see my back and stomach lol I also went and dug around until I found the velcro-based strapping kit that I pulled out of my Anovos suit when I switched to snaps. I will likely use it to help start mocking up fitment for the suit. Sure, I'll waste some Velcro, but I think it'll be worth it to learn and size the kit properly. I will also likely let any of the other group build members try mine on so they can adjust and mark theirs for trimming, if needed. Mine may need some off the top of the barrel, and I will likely be splitting the back of the thighs at the cover strip to overlap them and size them down a bit. The kitten's name is Zero and at 10 weeks old, he was terribly curious about what was going on. I also started playing around with coatings and ended up spraying the back of one of my handguards with Flex Seal to test it out. I was pretty pleased with the finish and it stopped the itchiness that the armor still caused, even after a thorough washing with a red Brillo pad. I'll probably be spraying the entire inside of my kit with this stuff after I have reinforced it (still figuring out how to do so). I was also pleased to see that industrial Velcro still stuck to the finish and was able to attach the handguard to my Endor Finders gloves securely. The gloves are awesome and the lining is very comfortable, if likely a bit warm for us out here in CA. Finally, I started trying to mock up and assemble the forearms and biceps - it's been a topic of much debate how we want to end up attaching the pieces together, but I decided to give 1", regular (non-industrial) Velcro a try. I wasn't super stoked on how it came out - it's pretty visible, though mostly from the back. I may try to reposition it further from the edge and see if that does anything. The thickness is also somewhat concerning, but we need to be able to get these apart, as I confirmed that there's no way my hand will fit through the hole at the wrist without opening them up. I'm hesitant to use glue pretty much anywhere on the suit as a result. There's some discussion of Boba-gauntlet-style magnets, but we'll get to that. Can anyone also confirm that this is how the pieces are supposed to sit? Feels kind of awkward for sure. From the elbow down: And from the wrist down: I also realized that when we distributing all the pieces after the bulk shipping, I ended up with two of the same outside bicep, when I need with a cover strip on each side for it to assemble properly. Gotta figure out which of the 7 other guys has the same problem and switch with them! D'oh! Anyways, more test fitting with some assistance coming soon. I mocked up the chest how it should assemble (except the shoulder straps will go UNDER the chest plate - I just couldn't get it to sit like that for the photo), but I think I'm going to hang the cod, then use that to help position the barrel, then fit the chest OVER that. Gonna need some extra hands though, so not today. Aaaand finally, I was able to take the kit to my paint guy Andrew "Bondo" Babish with Paint by Bondo - he quoted $500 flat to surface prep, prime, and paint the whole kit with flexible automotive quality paint, handpainted color details on the helmet and ab, and clear coat on top. Not too shabby and this is likely the route I'll go. Just for fun, he sent me a pic of a helmet he painted for the big 501st TK Helmet art exhibit they had a while back. At the time, he was painting for West Coast Choppers, so there's Jesse James next to him if anyone remembers that guy. Pretty cool. Plain white paint and a couple helmet details should be no problem for him, I daresay. More updates soon, but things are moving and we're problem solving as we go!

Very nice, great to see there may be another option for purchasers, at times they can be hard to find. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Thanks Glen. Yeah it can be red, pink or anything in between. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Awesome, very nice

Nice work so far, amazing how the red can appear a different color depending on angle and light.

I found using ABS paste gives you a little more strength and is less likely to crack, where as filler (bondo) cracks very easily with flex

Thanks Tino. It’s all a trial and error project with no set goal to make full kits yet. Just praying I made decent molds so I can get started.

Awesome, thanks for the heads up! I’m off on Sundays so I’ll shoot for the 8th.

The Facebook group is great. They’ve been tremendously helpful in getting me back on track with my armor build. Hopefully once I finish my build I can finalize my build thread for others looking to use Andy’s kit. Honestly, it’s a great bucket and great kit.

In addition to what Dave mentioned here's a decent video illustrating how to install kidney shims ---------------

Wow Brian, great to see this Sterling parts kit in your hands. Considering your striving for accuracy on the hollowed scopes, this can only become an outstanding blaster kit - in case everything works. However, I keep fingers crossed for this...

I will forever recommend AM and RT-Mod/RT-Panda- for basically everyone. But, they are also especially suited for taller and/or larger troopers. I have AM. I'm 5'11'' and it was great for me, and could easily do someone taller, or shorter. Good thickness and quality, too.

Thanks!

I made some progress over the last few days. Installed some snaps and rivets, I still need to paint the rivets white on the chest plate. Added buttons to chest plate: Added a hook to the back of the bicep plates to keep the elastic in place. I assume this is ok? The shoulder bells seem big but we'll see what the final fit looks like. Also need to clean up/trim those cover strips on the biceps. Fits seems fairly good but a little off centered/rivets don't line up and would like this to look a little cleaner. I may need to lower the back piece a little by making the elastic in the shoulders a bit longer. Suggestions and feedback?

I need also the inner grip frame... This is going to be an awsome project! Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

That sounds really promising! Thanks for sharing that with us! Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

Thanks! The trigger assembly, inner grip frame and grip have been molded separately so hope that turns out well.

I will definitely order your molded parts bro if you are selling! I am very excited on the trigger assembly which is the missing piece on my e-11. Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

Hi Mario, thank you for the observation. Actually this is the decal of our garrison and it's a part of our safety policy.

Done. Another little "accident" : I use latex glowes for painting. They're full of a white powder (talc ?). I didn't see with the first layer that the powder goes everywhere and I can see my fingerprints when I take the parts. Fortunately the powder is easy to remove. So one advice : wash the glowes before painting !

That's a great start. Bring on another HWT!!

The ears are going well though. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Hi Dave, So my Hovi tips were painted correctly, but then I incorrectly painted the interior of the hovi white as well based on the CRL and my previous centurion build. So then it was brought to my attention that the interior of the Hero helmet hovi tips are actually black, on the interior walls, and the tips had light weathering, so then I corrected it by repainting them black. Hope this helps and good luck with the rest of your modifications. Kill it Brother and look forward to seeing another approval.

Holy crap on a pancake! I've been staring at that helmet for months and never noticed. Damn your eagle eyes. Delete this thread and hopefully no-one will notice... Kidding...sort of... I did a quick measure of the teeth and gaps. The center tooth is slightly lopsided to the right (as you wear the helmet), with more material there. The gap to the right of the center tooth is about 2mm narrower than the left gap. It would be much easier to sand off 2 mm on the right side of center tooth than add material to the left. Do you think the larger gap would be too much? The left gap doesn't look too large. On a better note, I submitted for EI. Let's see what the Imperial Inspection God's say...

Hello Justin. I am 6'3" and 200lbs with the Anovos kit also. You should be able to make it fit so let me know if you need any pictures.

Thanks. I've missed some sectors. Will apply primer on them tomorrow.

Hi, just a suggestion, looking at your armor, I think the D.O. will probably ask you to remove the RWA sticker from your left shoulder bell. cheers.

It does, a huge load off my mind in fact. Thank you. Looking at ATA and ANOVOS build threads for next steps with chest, back, ab, and posterior trimming.

Nice job so far Tim

Welcome to FISD Tim. Looking good . Starting following your thread. Good luck.

Hello and welcome aboard. with imgur once you upload your images you can select copy and paste directly into your forum post, sometimes that doesn't work on mobile then use the "direct link" Coming along nicely, just watch sharp edges, noting worse than armor bites while trooping.

Thank you. As for my other costumes, lol, that's a loaded question. I have the following: ID - Imperial Staff Officer/Warrant Officer IC - Bridge Crew/Scanning Crew IN - Standard/Dress/Rogue 1 TI - Reserve/ANH IG - 3 variants IS - AT-ST Driver (Marauder) SL - Emperor Palpatine and of course now my TK I have had a busy few years. Love being a part of the legion and have done 3 TK troops so far with adjustments being needed after every troop so far. doing some work tomorrow to fix some things.

Hi all, Well, I put my new lid with my armour yesterday and I’m really pleased with the colour match. There’s certainly a subtle difference, however, there was also a different in ANH between armour and lid. So, I’m happy with that. And yes - I need to re-paint my ab buttons...;-)

I think I am going to redo the coverstrips, too much of the raised edge showing on the biceps and forearms something I overlooked originally. I plan to cut a few mm off of each of the raised edges, then cover with 15mm coverstrip. Should still allow plenty of room for it to fit. Agreed?

100% agree on the Tino completion kit, they are the perfect addition to the Doopy’s and take it so much closer to the screen used look Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you really want to take it to the nth degree, I would suggest on of Tino's completion kits as well. All the cool extras that will give it a more screen accurate look. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/