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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/06/2019 in all areas
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Big News! I just got Basic Approval!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am now officially TK-98695. Thanks to everyone for their help. I'll be asking and posting more as I work towards Expert Level now LOL3 points
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Today i spent some more time in assembling the blaster and some minor details, like adding more realistic letters on the scope with a wax crayon... on the back of the barrel you can see my TK ID , 24717, hammered into the resin with hammering letters, sorry for the wording, but i cannot find the correct translation. The number 4 i have to do again, as the wax is not remaining inside. Now it looks more and more like a blaster and i am getting happier and happier when i see the result :-) :-) :-) A detailed pictore of the charging and programming port... in the end cap clip you can see the speaker, which had to be replaced twice already... meanwhile i know the reason why it blew up twice :-) Here you can see the main switch, placed in between two magnets of the completion kit from Tino. Only if this switch is switched on, the blaster can be activated. More pictures are following once everything has been checked and if it is working properly. Have a anice evening guys!2 points
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Looking good Rodrigo. Buena suerte salao !! Lio2 points
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Like Alay, I have built multiples of both kits and each has their pro's and cons. The AP of which I own is thicker than the RS kits Ive worked on, and is definitely a different white. AP has changed the ABS they use in recent years so those kits seem whiter again than their older version. AP: Pulls are still pretty darn good and not as soft as some others makers out there, but the RS kits are a touch more detailed. The stand out differences are The helmet as mentioned, AP is a cleaned up version but still cast with movie lineage as is most of the suit. The Ab plate is also cleaned up and I believe cast from an RotJ suit originally. more symmetrical and aligned. The fore arms and Biceps are identical as the suit cast from was missing several pieces, these are a cleaned up version. Both shoulder Bells are identical. Originally the back and butt plates were joined but Mark has since separated these and uses individual molds. Overall AP is a more sanitized version but a very hardy and quality kit. RS: Not as white as the AP kits pulls are sharp as the ABS is not as thick. The Helmet is full of original detail all paint runs etc bumps and lumps very visible. Most of the suit is cast from an original so both the arms are different from each other. (number of dimples along the ridge of forearms and differing length, different shaped biceps) Ab plate: is slightly twisted and asymmetric compared to AP Legs both have a fair difference in shape around the top. Shoulder bells are both different in shape. There are more differences but I think you get the idea you cant go wrong which ever you decide, cleaned up idealistic, or warts and all original they both look impressive.2 points
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Thanks, I’ll post pictures later today or tomorrow Good eye, I was just wearing the left on the right for the picture1 point
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Thanks for letting me know. Are Shepperton blasters good enough for higher level approvals? In the meantime might I make a special request for all the costume fixes I'll need for EIB and Centurion please? So that I can get those done while waiting for my blaster and be able to submit the pics with fixes and blaster in one sitting. Pretty please with chocolate sprinkles on top.1 point
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That's a left shin you're wearing on your right shin.1 point
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Thanks for suggesting that, Lou. Unfortunately, Walt's kits are bright white, and would really look odd next to the off-white coloring of the RS suit. It shouldn't be a problem to get Andrea over at RS to help me out. She's been awesome with getting parts to me in the past.1 point
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If you need new bells, Walt's makes a larger set now that you could use to trim down.1 point
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Wow, thank you all for the helpful and detailed advice! I really appreciate you guys taking the time to answer all my questions. And I think I'm going to go with AP! Time to start saving! Haha1 point
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Updated. If anyone needing access for the racing shirt is running into issues feel free to pm me directly.1 point
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Hello friends! If you need any more photos do not hesitate to ask. I am happy to help. Hugs!!!1 point
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So, after some more test fitting, I need to redo the biceps. Took them apart, did some trimming, reshaping, and some shimming to get them a bit slimmer so they were not pushing out on the bells. The refit is a lot better, just need to get some paint on them and reattach the cover strips. Once thats done, an attachment strap from the bell to the bicep so it wont flop out. Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk1 point
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https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=256221 point
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So....tighter attachments and the belt dont need to go really tight, so it can go to his place. Enviado desde mi SM-G955F mediante Tapatalk1 point
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Clamps, clamps and more clamps, true armor builder lol. Fantastic build. Oh, and the armor looks outstanding also1 point
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Firstly, Welcome to FISD Mr Cricket [emoji4] You are looking awesome and are extremely lucky to have such a talented wife building your armour. Great work Christine, not long now [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Preface: Both makers are amazing. I've owned 3 different AP sets, and I've helped build 2 others. I've helped build 2 RS builds, as well as knowing 3 people who actively troop in one. Either choice is gonna be perfect. Everything below is my personal experience. That said; I think the AP ABS is thicker. Honestly AP might be one of the thickest ABS pulls out there. This leads to softer pull details in some spots, but it does make it super resilient to trooping damage. I've only developed 2 cracks in my crotch tab, and that's because I sit down in armor because I'm a lazy person. I've been actively trooping in my main trooper costume for 3 years now. I know of one trooper in my unit who has several chestplate cracks on her stormtrooper from RS. She uses a bracket system though, and that will put extra stress on areas. I think most cracking with any costume will be mostly based on how your treat it and how well you distribute stress. There's a slight difference between the RS and the AP ABS. I find the RS ABS to be a slight off white. I've not compared to a PVC kit. I've not seen yellowing issues with either. My AP ABS is still stark white after years of trooping. I have zero experience with PVC, but have heard drawbacks to it and that it is more prone to cracking. Don't take my word for it though. You're gonna be fine with either kit at your size and weight Two things to note about the AP/RS. The RS helmet is slightly bumpy like the original screen used helmets, and is probably the most faithful to the original for that reason. The AP helmet is a smoothed and cleaned up version of that, so if you don't like the bumps that's probably better for you. However if you're super about those movie accurate bumpies, then RS will suit better. The thighs between the two also look a little different to me, so preference there.1 point
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I am sorry I can't answer a lot of your questions but I do have a RS PVC kit and I really like PVC. According to the RS website, PVC won't yellow over time unlike ABS plastic. While I am currently building an ABS TK, I have noticed that PVC was easier to mold with hot water treatment compared to ABS when I had to reshape certain pieces. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk1 point
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You don't have to use the pre approval forum here for 501st approval its just a nice way to iron out any issues before you submit your application to your GML. The application is done in two parts, you need to fill in the 501st online application and supply 5 sets of ID numbers, you pick 5 in case some are taken while your application is being reviewed, link here https://www.501st.com/members/join_form.php You then send high quality images to your GML (garrison membership liaison) check on your garrison forum as some GML's prefer them sent in different ways. Once the GML gives you the OK the process then goes back to the 501st to finalise the application and issue your TKID (set of number you picked) once you have this set of numbers it is with you for life, you will then be notified from the 501st. Hope that explains it a little better.1 point
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I am building up a screen accurate ANH hero suit at the moment and thought I would share some photos with you guys. I am hoping this build will inspire more people to have a go at making a screen accurate suit. The original strapping really feels awesome when you wear the suit and you get a feel for how it was for the actors on set. The kit is made from glossy 1.5mm ABS and I am using all vintage Newey fasteners, wire strapping brackets, split rivets and elastics just as they did for the movie suits. I am trimming the parts using a sharp craft knife and cleaning the edges using a knife blade. No sandpaper will be used on this kit as I am trying to get it just as was back in 1977. I will be making a multi layered canvas belt, a leather holster from my new template, and latex hand plates from my new mould. Here are some photos of what I have done so far and I will continue to post more as I progress1 point