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As long as Garrison Carida is weighing in, I'll add my (Cadet-level) approval.

Aw, TWO garrison-mates commenting in one morning. Thanks, guys! I look forward to trooping with you soon.

Final Assembly and Fitting -- Part I Bet you didn't expect me back so soon. Mrs. Stormtrooper got home early, so she helped me attach and mark the arms for final sizing to determine the location of the snaps at the Bicep/Bell connections... and, for that matter, just help me get the damn thing on. I swear, I envy you guys who can put this stuff on by yourself. Then again, this is the first time I've put it all on, and I suppose it gets easier with time. Plus, the arms weren't attached when I did this. I'm rationalizing, of course, but hopefully it will get easier. We started by just getting on the thighs and torso assembly. Didn't bother putting on the shins as those are good to go, although I regret now not doing it. Would've been good to have a photo of them on with the rest of the outfit. (For that matter, I should have slipped my helmet on, too... Oh, well.) Remember now, this is a first full suit-up, so I know some things are off fitment-wise. Namely, the Thighs need to come up, and the Butt needs to come down. Meanwhile, the Back Plate slipped slightly over the top of the Kidney. However, I don't have the strap at the Cod/Butt connection yet (that will be the last strap I do the final measurement on), so nothing is being held together down there. I'm thinking that when I get that strap connection there that it'll pull everything downward and help to stretch out the rear portion of the assembly -- pulling the Butt and Kidney Plates down and allowing the Back Plate to ride up simultaneously. I may also need to raise the Back Plate a bit more by shortening the shoulder extensions, but I want to get that Cod snap in place first to see what that does -- with luck, I may not need to make any other adjustments on the rear. Otherwise, it all feels like it fits pretty well. Feels weird as hell wearing it, but it feels like it fits fine. I'm a bit dismayed here that the paint on the side rivets is already scraping off. I'll have to redo that paint before submitting. OK, let's get those arms on... We tucked the Shoulder Bell straps up underneath the shoulder elastic and snugged the tips of the Bells right up to where the Shoulder Bridges will be, then secured them in place with some small clamps. She then marked the Bell elastic and shoulder elastic where I'll need to put the snaps for those connections. Then, she slipped the Biceps up under the Bells, and Han-Hooked them in place on the retaining loops at the bottom of the Bells. *snap* That's the sound of me taking the above photo. (Note the camera remote control in my right hand.) We fiddled with the placement of each arm a bit to get everything where it should be and she marked the Biceps where they should go. I'll use the marks tomorrow to install a snap plate in the Bells, and a snap onto the end of the Bicep strap and the arms are finished. By the way, you know that this is AM armor, sized bigger than most. Boy am I glad I got it. I have very long arms -- note how low the Biceps are to maintain a minimal gap at the elbows -- and a small set of armor would have had huge gaps all over. I wish I could have had the Biceps up a bit higher into the Bells, but my arms are what they are. I'm really pleased with the fit for this first full suit-up. Yeah, I realize there are fitting issues: Both Thighs are twisted outward something awful so I'll need to adjust those garter straps, plus I know they need to come up some. Not only will that look better, but it'll remove the effective splint the create over both knees -- I cannot bend my legs at all at the moment. Tomorrow, I'll do those snap connections at the Bicep/Bell junctions, work on getting those Thighs up, install the snaps at the shoulder elastic, and maybe add the ABS Shoulder Bridges. I'll also create that strap for the Cod/Butt connection so I can get a true estimation of the fit on the rear of the suit. After that, it's making the Belt and gluing on the Ab buttons, and I'm ready to hunt Rebel Scum.

Go build! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hatnuts or another name is Pushnuts. This is another alternative. The trick is getting that excess away. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I found tiny plumbing valve caps at my local hardware store. They're made of brass so easy to sand and shape. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Looking good Jesse. Can't wait for your next update.

Hello again, I grey prime major components leaving out the central capacitors. I then followed up with flat black. As for the ceramic tube, I followed up with semigloss to seal in the orangey color with brass highlights. This also adds shine and reflectivity to it. To ensure maximum adhesion for gluing, I masked away those parts of the cylinders that will have end caps glued overtop. I also thickened the 'wings' with platicard. Bottom plate will remain a bit thick so to accommodate my chosen and scratch-built resisters. 10BA screws still need to be installed and putting together of the resistor wirings and sleeves. Capacitors I will try to bundle and glue in place some how then black wash them...to be continued [emoji38] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Sorry Pat, I am following so many E-11 build threads, sometimes its hard to correctly remember who did which modification. Sorry for the confusion. What about filling up that hole with green stuff and making a new, smaller one? Or is there any chance to re-inforce the clip with a thin layer of metal on the bottom? (just brainstorming...)

Give it a try, Patrick. Leave it as thick as possible and pick a small drill bit for the hole in the middle. In case it brakes, there are 3D printed versions available from Chris (themaninthesuitcase).

I am 6’2” and 240lbs. I have an Anovos Kit, and made proper mods to fit in. While I’m not familiar with ATA, I’m sure similar methods can be used to make the armor work.

Haha. Don't let Matt scare you - he has no patience and overreacts all the time. That said, the thighs are not as straight forward as the arms. If you think you need to trim the tops for height - do that the best you can before fully fitting them for width. And be sure to leave a little room in the thighs - it is better to have a little extra space (you can always adding padding) than having them too small. I've seen a lot of people undersize their thighs. Also, the right thigh front coverstrip ridge is slightly curved. I found gluing half (lower or upper) of the coverstrip on first then forcing the other half into place later (and holding with good clamps) worked - forces the coverstrip to follow the curved return edge / seam. If that makes sense. Arms look very nice! Great work, trooper!!

Damn. GC taking over this thread... lol. Keep up the great work. Kylo always needs target shields

A-hem... sorry had to clear my throat. I think it looks good too. A-thirdgarrisonmatetocomment-hem, sorry still gotta clear my throat, it’s been a crazy morning. Huh look at that it’s still morning. Anyway I’m in Garrison Carida and I approve this message. (Subtle enough?) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet deal. Troopers are great and I'm always in awe when I see them... even now. I'm partial to the dirty side as I hate to polish anyway, but this is fantastic to see. Good luck with the build. Plenty of great people on FISD to answer all your questions. Cheers!

Maybe someone with experience on airbrush techniques can answer this. I finished my builds only with brush and spray can.

Thanks Matt! Thank you Dan! I can't wait! You'll love having one if you get one! I'm still trying to find a good full body mannequin, my first one stayed standing for about 12 hours before it tipped over in the middle of the night (likely due to flexing plastic + foot mods needed to slip the thigh armor on). Fortunately no major damage to my kit, I just had to get the Novus out for a couple of scratches. It was summarily transferred to TIE Reserve duty. But the half body mannequin I use is very stable and it looks like a 1:1 Gentle Giant bust sitting in the room. My wife wants it back at some point though. lol

Damn! Nice work on that Holster!

Welcome back, Eric. Thanks for such a wonderfully presented application. We'll be with you soon. BTW... I really want a mannequin now!

Excellent work on the scope. Yes, drilling the holes out can cause some problems if done without care. Little room for mistakes when working with small delicate parts. Glad to hear the manual helped. The rubber rings are a great idea to hold the small lens in place. Great job adding that. I finally got an order of o rings now to supply with my kits. Not sure if they still need to be glued in placed to hold the lens but from my testing them out they hold the lens nice enough.

I have the Icomm and the Aker speaker and mic. If I were to do it again I would get the Icomm only for the static burst but everything else from@Ukswrath. The Aker takes up a lot of space and the included mic is uncomfortable and a pain to get positioned correctly.

Hi Fernando, Thanks for the extra photos. Unfortunately as @gmrhodes13 pointed out, your TD screws will need to be replaced. Yours are close, but note in the reference photo that he posted above, the top of the screw is flattened, not rounded like yours. I believe that @justjoseph63 has TD screws available, but if you need help locating some, let me know OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and be black (two per clip). Since you will be replacing the screws, if it is possible to slightly reposition the clip to get rid of this gap between the clip and the TD end cap at the same time, that'd be a nice touch. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Finally, could you please add photos of your left side ab/kidney connection (with no belt - you don't have to wear the armor) so that I can see the rivets? Sorry I missed that the first time. Thanks for your patience.

Pretty nice interview with FISD former DL, former LMO and current LMW, Eric Brager aka @Darth Aloha https://www.dailydot.com/parsec/stormtrooper-costume-uniform-design-politics/

Tapered the width of the trigger guard from 12mm at the front to 10mm at the back, as seen in the reference picture of a real Sterling. 20190107_233152 Thanks again for pointing me to this detail that I overlooked master builders!

Thanks guys! I realize now that I completely misunderstood the tapering remark... I thought that was about the middle of the guard being thicker than the sides. But I see now that at the front it’s a bit wider than at the back. Will definitely replicate that as well! I knew I could rely on the collective knowledge here! You have impeccable eyes for details.

Looks great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WOO-HOO, Brendan! EXCELLENT job on both the forearms and biceps!

I would follow ^ ^ advise just above

Zeddy, page 4 of my build has a respectable paint guide. As for glossy vs flat. Everything white is glossy, all the details on the ab plate and sides are glossy. The grey on the TD and helmet is flat. the black brow is flat and the neck seal ring is flat. I shot my entire helmet then applied a gloss to everything but the brow and neck. Then i went back and sanded the grey stuff to make it flat.

Update, I have replaced a lot of the Velcro and I think one of the largest factors on why so much of the Velcro failed at dragon con was the heat. Additionally, I think I have fixed the shin armor from rotating. First, someone at some point in one of their builds mentioned a contact cement called Bison. I ordered some of this stuff from Amazon and used it to stick the Velcro inside the shin armor that attaches to the boots. In the two hours I wore the shins and boots walking around my shop, it looks like it will hold. Next, I added some snaps inside the shin armor and the boots that should further ensure that the armor does not rotate. Lastly, some good news about the shoulder straps. I stopped by The Engineer Guy and spoke to some subject matter experts on what products to use for making the rubberized straps. I picked up some Smooth-On Simpact 60A Urethane Rubber. I will be making a test set of the straps in the coming week and I will let you guys know how they turn out. If they work out, I will make a few sets to sell to whomever wants to buy a set. Additionally, I investigated some options to make a rubber version of my RO T-21. I think we have narrowed down the product to use but the cost is going to be significant. My investment beyond already building the T-21 will be a lot of silicone and Smooth-Cast for the mold and some Mold Max for the actual rubber gun. I would need several gallons of this stuff so I expect that my investment would be close to $1000.00. This would allow me to produce several of the guns that I would attempt to sell. I am not sure what the asking price would be. Needles to say, it will be some time before I make a decision on this project and I would need to see interest in the T-21s before I even attempted it. Well that is the update so far. I will update on the shoulder straps once I get them made. Thanks for the interest.

You can always remove more as needed. Much harder to put back on.

Hi Brian, yes after building some experience with the “coarser” stuff I felt that I was finally ready to tackle the more delicate scope build. The most tricky part was drilling the holes. Apart from that it was pretty straightforward thanks to your excellent manual. I cut a few rubber rings to size to keep the small lense in position without gluing it. 20190102_113321 Still waiting for the electronics though, so the miniscope is not fitted yet. I will probably also add a red LED behind the small lense, like Marko did in his build. My DoopyDoo’s trigger guard also has a bit of tapering, but on the reference pictures from a real Sterling it appears to be flat. So I’m not sure which is more accurate. Maybe some of the other experts can comment on that? Thanks for your kind feedback! Best regards, Patrick

HAHAHA Bring your stuff over Walter let's do this

It's not a race YOU CAN DO IT!

wow, amazing.. how the hell can I get this into Australia!?

Thanks for all of the input, this is very helpful. And Cricket, of course seeing your build is incredibly helpful! Hmm... I asked for short thighs, I hope that's not a mistake! I do have short legs though, I have to hem petite pants. I'm sure I will come up with more questions as I try to get organized while I wait on the armor