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Geez, I had not even thought about that but you guys are right. The belt, which I'll probably cinch up pretty tight, goes right over that very area. I'm taking your advice and not worrying about it -- for now. I can keep moving forward and rely on the belt for closure for the time being. Maybe down the road when my build is done I might revisit the issue and refine it then with my A, B or C solution. But for now I'm just not gonna waste time with it. Thanks!

Simplest would be to do nothing - the lower snap-point isn’t needed as the belt will hold it closed. I know some would say the belt is not meant to be structural and all that but why not use it if it’s there, totally up to you of course

Updated vocoder! Matt and Mark, thanks for your direction. Put up your dukes, Ears, it's time for round three.

I agree with Daniel. When I first started trooping I would spend up to a minute trying to get that lower strap to snap closed, but after a while I realized that the belt was holding it closed and I haven't bothered with that strap since.

It;s definitely the right shin. They are paired up perfect;y and worn on the correct legs in the photos above, so something has gone astray since. It's nothing major anyway if they have been swapped over as the shins were all over the place in the movies, but you had them assembled correctly earlier.

Yes I agree to that, shouldn´t be an issue though with the CRL beeing as it is, it clearly shows a gap and the GMLs are instructed to use the Visual guide as well as the written text. However I guess there´s no harm in mentioning it even att basic. Suggestion and by no means intended as a finished product. Basic: Browtrim - A small but visible gap is required between the eyes and brow. See CRL pic for reference. L2: Browtrim - A clear gap between the eyes and the brow. L3: Browtrim - A distinct gap between the eyes and the brow.

I have very low brow on my stunt lol

I agree with TheSwede, this should be for EI OR centurion and not effect basic clearance.

You're fitting the knee plate to a right hand shin.

Not all need an expensive screen accurate costume to feel like a stormtrooper, here are just a few. *edited heading due to negative feedback*

Hi all, Following on from this below thread, it was suggested to start a new thread and try with potential suggestions. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45204-july-2018-request-for-crl-updates-thread/ In this case, the topic that I’d like to raise is ANH stunt brow height. As a huge fan of the ANH TK, the overall, or what I believe to be the “intended” look of our beloved stunt Trooper is very important to me. As well as items already covered by the CRL, such as hand painted helmet details (or decals that emulate this), correct style hovi tips, accurate s-trim etc etc, I personally feel that the brow height is just as important, if not more so, to the defining look of a stunt TK. I have prepared a series of photos below to support the theory that stunt TKs have at least 5mm (approx) or more clearance between the top of the eyes and the brow. (Around 10mm would probably be a better suggestion). Now, I know that there are examples of stunt TKs with a low brow, (similar in appearance to Luke’s hero lid), and I have pictured these below. However, it is my opinion that these low brow stunts are wardrobe malfunctions, not intentional. Example of “low brow”, hero style; Examples of “stunt” style *Below should read “bubble lenses” I believe the above indicates that the brow height is intended a certain way for stunt - higher for stunt, lower for Hero. We strive for accuracy in many areas, such as the minimum and max number of tube-stripes and how far these are from the cheek, how many ear screws or type of screw for various parts, how many ear bumps we paint, and many more small details, however, something as hugely defining as the brow height is not covered. I am not trying to bash those with low brow - I am simply raising that the brow, in my opinion, is equally as defining as many other elements of our beloved TK. I have discussed this with fellow troopers and some have mentioned that the low brow is “menacing”. That’s all well and good, but, does it look like an ANH stunt trooper or like a hybrid stunt/hero TK? I would appreciate any and all input on this from the community. :-) Dan

FISD: come for the detailed analysis and critiques of TK armour... stay for Matt's and Frank's banter.

How about a slightly crooked one for the TK that spent too much time at the imperial bar last night while off duty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So...back to order...usually I just hack away but this time I decided to draw some trim lines just in case it would be helpful to anyone. These lines are not meant to be the definitive way to trim an RS helmet but atleast it´s a start and I´m basicly just removing the extra plastic aka the flashing. I usually also cut more of the forehead than this but as one can see on the RS they left this on the Movie helmets and as this is a replica build so will I. Some more pics showing the RS helmet (screen used) Now...whats with the wierd color?? The originals were made of HDPE plastic and then painted white. I was to impatient to wait for a HDPE run so I will use this paint to emulate the khaki color. And if all goes well I will have some nice ANH wear and tear showing the "original color" As seen, the ears are pretty thin and this time around they came with suggested trim lines drawn on them. Good starting point. Well...I have the lines, time to cut. I´m using a tin snip except for teeth and eyes were I use a utility knife. And that´s a wrap for today.

Sorry for the confusion Lorelei, Paul is correct regarding which shin the sniper knee is to be mounted to, forgive me for not catching that I was solely focused on the knee only. Regarding the knee itself, the left shin inner will not line up with the edge of the sniper knee as seen in the provided screen shots above. Unless Tyrell (ATA) has changed his process the knee has a flared edge at the corner, the area in question. For the knee to look correct the flare will need to be trimmed off. Trimming the flare leaves the area in question a bit short of where it should be. The only reason I know this is I have an ATA and had the exact same concern and ordered a 2nd knee thinking somehow I'd messed up the first, nope, same problem. Hope this helps

Not drawing eyes on before I trimmed them out is definitely my #1 regret right now. of course with the duckbill on your FOTK it was even better! There, now I have a New Year's resolution. "Draw whimsical eyeballs on next bucket."

Something HAS gone astray - my mind! This must've been among the "brilliant" things I set in motion while sick and fuzzy-minded. Thank you for catching this, Paul! I'm excited to see how it lines up on the other shin Ok, for anybody here who may have historically had trouble with right and left , do you mean the "inside" of the knee or the "outside" should be close? Thanks! Thanks, Frank. Our flaws do tend to stand out to ourselves most. Trying to balance that with Centurion-grade quality and screen accuracy can be tough, though! ***Also, PSA*** - Hallmark stores have Christmas goods 60% off, including that amazing light-up tree skirt featuring Darth Vader & son's classic lightsaber duel. Guess who finally got one along with several Tie Fighter ornaments. Ooh yeahh.

Starting the first day of the year by tinkering with a Stormtrooper helmet - not to bad Not everyone seemed pleased about it though…. Hey! Watch were you are pointing that thing will ya!

Thanks for the feedback and encouragement, Dan! Your edits of my photos are really helpful. Whoops! You're totally right about the vocoder. I must have been looking at a wrong reference picture. I'll get that fixed up straight away. As for the tube stripes, I do see the difference there. I am shooting for Centurion - do you think mine will be an issue for level three clearance as they are now? If so, it's worth it to me to redo them, but if it isn't necessary I'd sooner move on to the other pieces. Thanks again!

Haha!! :-) Going back to your question, personally, I wouldn’t expect any cleared troopers to be asked to change to their brow height. They cleared based on the rules at the time. I just think that this would help maintain the iconic image of the two different ANH TK types moving forward. :-)

Good question. I was thinking of a max to stop people going way high, like the move along trooper, as I’m not aware of a TK with a brow that high. Looking back at the ref pics, this one of probably more like 15mm; Totally open for discussion - I’ve not made any actual measurements yet, just a guess by eye. :-)

Kind of figured this would be the case. The ears just happened to be something Tony noticed when I submitted for Centurion but not EI. I do plan on making the adjustments though. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Grandfathered But if you want to be ”up-to-snuff” so to speak then making the changes would be your choice.

I would just say L1: There should be a visible gap between the brow trim and eyes. L2: A gap of approximately 5mm must be present between the brow trim and eyes. No L3 needed as the requirements are cumulative.

I just had to go and check In keeping with the CRL pic, you are fine Sir () As they are I don´t see the need to change the CRL for basic as it clearly shows a gap but it might be a good idea to emphazise it for L2/L3. Agreed to all and maybe ad the "no paint on posterior snaps/cod rivet to apply at L2?

No need for a new one However when going back in the thread and looking at both your shins it do look like Paul is correct, could be the way you have it between the legs for the photo but might be worth to check

Yep - CRL photo supports this already. Personally, I’d totally agree that this should be at GML level and a basic requirement. You want low brow? Hero it is. You want stunt - a small gap must exist above the eyes, as per the majority of screen used stunt TKs. :-)

Positioning of ears wise, I hear you. This could require some serious work to correct so perhaps this could continue to be a ‘suggestion’ for accuracy that we highlight as DOs. Regarding the brow, and specifically Paul TM, he knows his stuff and is unlikely to make stunts with a low brow. A quick glance at the pre-builds that he’s made on his FB page confirms this with ANH stunt (the the 4 or 5 I just looked at). His hero lids, on the other hand, do feature a lower, hero-esc brow.

Roger that, which I why I used the terms "closely" and "approximately", and these were only meant for L3. These were just a few of the items that are commonly seen in submissions, and instead of asking troopers to change them after I thought it would be easier to give them a better idea of something to strive for beforehand. Points well taken, though!

Some more screen used Hero buckets:

In order to eliminate any ambiguity and make things clearer for those headed for Centurion, I am proposing the following changes to the CRLs for ANH Stunt and ANH Hero for level 3. I realize that there were small variations in the films, but I believe these follow the general overall look. 1. Ears shall be tilted back at an angle to where the screws align closely with the rear angle of the trap located above the rear of the brow. 2. Tube stripes are positioned no more than approximately 7/16ths (1 cm) from the cheek, (a standard pencil width). 3. Top section of posterior armor shall be in line with the bottom portion of the kidney plate. 4. Posterior snaps/cod rivet shall not be painted. 5. Minimal (or no) gap is permitted between the top of the shoulder bell and the shoulder bridge. 6. All abdomen buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor. No separate/added buttons are permitted. 7. D-ring on end cap shall be of a similar shape/size to the original Sterling type. 8. 3D printed weapons must be free of noticeable print lines.

Great photos! Great armour

Thanks for the feedback, folks. Firstly, I’m really pleased to hear that the idea is not an instant no-no. [emoji1] Based on the content of the existing L2 requirements*, I would have to ask the question - Would Joe public be more likely to recognise, or relate to, the iconic stunt trooper because of; a/ the brow height b/ the number of bumps on the side of the ears (for example) Personally, I think the answer, cut and dry, would be the brow height (based on the photos above). Based on this, my suggestion would be that this is a fundamental part of the Stunt TK and would be a fair requirement for L2 (if not basic). After all, if a low brow is desired, the option is there as a Hero. (Not trying to preach - just presenting the foundations of why I’ve brought this up and why I feel it’s important). * Level two certification (if applicable): •Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. •Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. •Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. •Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

I've already congratulated you on the garrison forums, but again welcome aboard David and look forward to trooping with you. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

I like the rework. I thought the original was good too. It’s not gonna be perfect none of them where. I hate how my ammo belt is on my right thigh. I bugged AM for months to get a replacement. I felt like it was the worse thing in the world and people were laughing at me and every time I would say something at a troop everyone was like it’s fine. Ended up getting the replacement and still haven’t changed it. You’ll see a lot of perfect builds on this forum but I’m willing to bet just about everyone has that one thing nobody notices or cares about that ticks them off. Or you could order a new one, ultimately it’s your time and money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ATA sniper knee, even a replacement will NOT line up on the right side, they're made small, just an FYI. The left side should be close. That said, we have several ATA L3 badge holders with imperfect sniper knees. Though Daniel is correct in pointing out they should be aligned with the return edge you will not be held to that standard because the manufacturer didn't make them big enough.

Slight rework to see if I need to get that new knee in the mail. This thing was HARD to pry off! Go E6000!! Not a perfect vertical, but not the slope it was, and not so far from the shin corner either. I don't love how it ends up on a slight diagonal but that seems to be screen accurate, so... Obviously there's more trimming of the sides to be done and sanding etc but here's the concept.

Great looking armor

Looking awesome, Tino!! Love the idea of the troop count on your battle box. I might have to adopt a similar method. Frohes neues Jahr, Tino. :-)

Update 10: - review 2018 It is the last day of the year, so I just wanted to post a few nice pictures from troops during 2018. Yes, have been pretty active in 2018. But there is still enough space left on the Stanley box... Wishing you all a Happy New Year 2019!

Greetings troopers. During the month of December there was a run of challenge coins offered by Endor Finders in our Detachment Merch section. Many troopers are starting to receive their coins. As you may notice there are imperfections on the edge of the coins. While there are no imperfections reported on the faces of the coins, these imperfections on the edges have been reported to us. We have been in contact with John at Endor Finders and he is offering to replace any coins that you feel are unsatisfactory. This will be up to the individual customer to contact John if they choose to have replacements made. If you are happy with the coins then you do not need to do anything. You may contact John at [email protected] and he is asking you to title the email as "Replacement." In the body of the email please provide your order number, your address and any other pertinent details about your coins (eg. EIB coin number). John is asking that the customer pay for the return postage and the postage to send out the replacements as he volunteered to do this run. If you have any questions regarding the replacements then you may contact John at the above email address. With Unquestioned Loyalty, Steve Sheades DCOG TK-10466

It's due to arrive today! It's actually at my local post office (according to Canada Post....), so if they actually attempt delivery it should be good. I'm working today, sadly, but worst case I can hit the post office before they close.

Odds 'n' Ends -- Part II Now that I'm nearing the end of the main build, I'm finding lots of smallish things I also need to do, so I'm peppering them in as I think of them and need a break from the main build. (Truth? The next part of the main build would have involved spending the day running around my workshop in my undersuit, but I forgot to turn on the heat in my basement workshop. Yeah, time for some odds 'n' ends instead...) One of the things I wanted to do with my armor is to arrange an alignment method for the right side where the Ab and Kidney meet. No issue with the left side, since that's riveted with a rigid ABS/webbing hinge, but the right side will be closed with straps. To keep the alignment correct and prevent one side or the other from sliding up or down, I decided to use a "tab-and-slot" arrangement that many of you have used. I made the slot plate with a length of white ABS scrap (the 3-1/4" length allowed it to fit nicely between snap plates), raised at each end with smaller squares of ABS glued in place. The opening of the slot matches the thickness of the tab that would go into it. For the tab plate, I used some black ABS (scavenged from the black plastic case one of my DeWalt drills came in),and cut it into the tab shape with a long gluing surface matching the length of the slot plate. I made this with black so it'd blend in with the undersuit, rendering it invisible through the seam where the Ab and Kidney meet. Not how I scored the gluing surface on the back of the tab plate. I then closed up the armor and put both pieces in place on the right-side closure between Ab and Kidney and traced where they needed to go. Starting with the slot plate on the kidney side, I glued it in with E6000 and clamped it up. While that was drying, I did the same thing with the tab plate on the opposite Ab side. You have to be careful when gluing these in, and make sure they stay on your traced lines when you apply clamping pressure. Parts glued with E6000 are notorious for sliding all over hell and back until the glue sets. I let both sides set up for several hours, then removed the clamps to test the fit. Perfecto! Up next, heat the damn basement and pick up where I left off with the main build.

Plasti-dip is now dry so cleaned it up and put the head-gear back in. Before After

ok pipe build e11 guys made you a few tubes