Leaderboard

Last Night in Review I did Things. Many Things. I feel quite accomplished, and so excited about this build in general. Look at all these [predominantly] smooth edges!! Woo! I got a round of advice and turned my oversized button plates into these marvelous masterpieces: And you know what else I did? Left my cutproof gloves in the rain and didn't wear them and cut BOTH of my hands in a matter of an hour. PPE, people, PPE. I'll be cleaning up all these edges a bit more but I'm still quite pleased with the work the ol' non-Dremel Dremel got done. I put it in the vise like so and gave myself the luxury of using both hands (not pictured - once more, where's my third arm when I need it?) to draw my pieces across the sanding disc. It made for a much smoother sanding time, bracing my elbows against my torso and swaying back and forth. Dancin' with Smudge already. Speaking of button plates, I followed this billhagram for initial sizing which matched my ATA ab in every dimension except one. The vertical sizing on the smaller button plate is glaringly different. Weird, huh? Oh well. I ended up sanding down past those dimensions a couple mm anyway, but it was a good jumping off point. The buttons on this ATA panel have always bugged me - they're just so BIG - maybe they look even bigger than they are cause they're skooshed into a shorter space? - but I digress. I also barely started trimming the ears. I stopped filing them before I got to the proper spot, I know. I've seen plenty of tutorials on working with them, but the fact that my kit came with two sets right off the bat makes me feel like I'll need them... these and the forearms are the only things really bugging me at the moment. The forearms are so so thick I can't seem to bend them at all. Taking the return edge down some more may help. We shall see. One last thing - the TD tube! I went with a generic Rust-oleum grey. Anybody following along think it's very important I use the Testors grey from the traps/tears/buttons instead? Over and out!

On the last day of my vacation I worked on the End Cap Clip. As many other blaster builders before, I did not have a pin with the right diameter . After searching in the basement I found a cable mount with a nail, which fit perfectly. I used the cutting disc of the Dremel and shortened the nail down until the right size was reached. For the scroll spring I used a ballpoint pen , thanks for the hint again, Tino! The next step I worked on was mounting the grip to the riffle. As the trigger switch needs to be connected to the Arduino mainboard, a hole needs to be hollowed out. The grip itself has been mounted with one screw, provided by T-Jays pack and on screw pin at the end of the grip, to stabilize it. To be able to get more stability on the scope, I will add some pins when the cut scope lens housing will be add again to the scope. Therefor I doubled the thickness of the lens housing. At the end I started with rasping down the resin at the place where the front sight sits. Here you can see the current progress of the blaster Again, thanks for watching and commenting.

Totally need pics of you playing with the dolls... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Items remaining: * Paint rivets and screws * Velcro shin to boot so it stops moving around now that sniper knee is attached * Remove decal from undersuit on left shoulder... * Tidy up interior of helmet. Getting excited

Great, thanks! We sell some Testors sprays at work, too - got one to try this evening. Primer really does seem to be the right color. Nice work-around!

Nice, hope that worked: I can see the images. Thanks Ensi!

Rat nailed it. If you take a look at some other build threads the most common remedy is a single piece of material (most commonly nylon webbing) that connects the two. You can use snaps and Rat has mentioned or glue it directly to the armor, and since it's not seen it has no bearing on any level of approval

I’ve used some paint that I’ve had laying around, primer grey then coated in clear gloss, came up a treat

Hi! Sick of photobucket being a slow, bloated piece of bantha poodoo (that now apparently charges you insane amounts for external hosting)? Wish you could just upload some images to your build thread to show off your sweet-an impolite person testfit of your armor after you've done all the strapping and not use 50% of that time closing popups? FEAR NOT! PSA: Keep a backup of your images! No one can predict the future, Imgur may not always be around (or may hold your images hostage like Photobucket). 1) CLICK THIS TO GO TO IMGUR.COM (Or you could click the mouse wheel, which opens any link in a new tab) 2) Make an account: 3) Fill in your stuff or use Facebook/Google whatever: 4) Go to your images: 5) Find your awesome picture: 6) Drag and drop your awesome picture right onto Imgur (or use CTRL C+V): 7) Click your newly uploaded picture: 8) Click the Copy button on the BBCode section: It will flash green and stuff, welcome to the future! This baby's almost ready for paint! Pretty painless! It also has albums, ability to auto-resize, you can even select several pictures from your folders and just drag them all onto Imgur. Pictures are hosted on imgur, and you are merely linking to them by posting them using this method. If you remove it from imgur, it will be removed from anywhere else you posted it using the link. Here's what all the sections do: Image Link: Links to the image, but on Imgur. [EXAMPLE] Direct Link: Links directly to the image, and nothing but the image. [EXAMPLE] Markdown Link: Formatting for Reddit comments, disregard this one. HTML: For embedding your picture onto your website. HTML Code. BBCode: For embedding your picture onto forums (like FISD and 99% of all other forums). Linked BBCode: Same as above but with a clickable picture that leads to the picture on Imgur. [Example below, click it!] HOW TO RESIZE YOUR PHOTOS FROM YOUR SMARTPHONE/CAMERA IF YOU HAVE BANTHA POODOO INTERNET CONNECTION (WINDOWS ONLY): If you're like me, you have a sub-par internet connection and a "regular" smartphone. Smartphones takes pictures with a large file size and it is not optimal for us with a bad connection wanting to upload it for web viewing. 3.5mb takes a long time to upload, so let's shrink those files while still keeping it high quality for the web. 1) Open up the pic in MS Paint Right clicking the image and clicking edit should open up the selected pic in Paint. If you highlight multiple images and do this, it should open an instance of paint for every selected pic. 2) Resize in Paint Click the "resize" button in MS Paint. You'll see this: Click TAB once and it should highlight the number, making you able to type into the field. I usually resize my pics from my Samsung S8 by 40-50%. Press OK (or just hit enter) and it should resize. Now you can go to File->Save/Save As.. or simply just press CTRL+S to overwrite and save to the file you opened. Now it only takes a few seconds to upload a picture, instead of a minute. Time saved that you can use on removing excess E6000 glue from your coverstrips If you have any questions i'll do my best to answer them. Ensi out!

Morning, all! I recently got inspired by a thread in the NCO Club (Off Topic) section about the differences between OT TKs and if a spreadsheet laying them out existed. We came to the conclusion we didn't think one did, and then on Friday I didn't have any real work to do at work, so I made one. It's OT TK only for now; I may make one for FOTKs someday, but that is not this day. There are spreadsheets for OTTKs and FOTKs- now including TLJ Phasma as per the recent update to the CRL! They are also now in PDF format for easy viewing! Here's the link for viewing/downloading (it looks terrible in preview- Google Sheets or download are the way to go). OT TKs - https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view?usp=sharing FOTKs - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GBkXIfRs9lYW6vnhVjqdEv5oNdp2ToTs/view?usp=sharing So my question is: Where should I post this for all to view? Armor discussion? Generic tutorials? My only thought is put it where it will be the most helpful, and I would prefer it not limited to the 501st-only areas, as it could help someone decide which TK to do for acceptance into the Legion (that was the point of the thread that inspired it). FURTHER EDIT: These have both been posted under the "Getting Started - Read this First!" Section. I note this post was pinned, but those weren't- those are the ones I'd recommend pining, as those are the ones I'll be updating with CRL changes.

Thermal Detonator done :). That was a lot more work than I thought it was going to be.

CURSES! SANDING ARMOR MY ARCH ENEMY! WE MEET AGAIN! (and thanks for the welcome even though I'm just currently a royal guard and a a 90% done snowie)

Hi, sorry for the delay. Revisiting this. Roger confirms he has not received any emails. I'm going to PM you his info so it's not posted publicly here.

Excellent job on this. I did notice a typo under the ANH Stunt on the holster section. You spelled worn “wron”. Not that it is affecting to usefulness of your wonderful spreadsheet! I will probably print it out and hang it up for reference.

If you don't like to hand paint I've found Testors 1238T spray enamel is a very close runner up to the screen accurate Humbrol #5 or Testors 1138, and can be found at most hobby stores. Michaels - http://www.michaels.com/testors-gloss-enamel-spray/10060926.html?cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_National_PLA_Shopping_Null_Null_All+Products_General-_-Crafts+and+Hobbies&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuafdBRDmARIsAPpBmVXP9vkmP095akiW2smqsYMRcwvRQeYwDkMSg324kcbKXHNOGnK3YqoaAsb9EALw_wcB

It's not that easy finding Chelsea boots that will pass because of various reasons, (wrong stitching, elastic, sole type/color, etc.) but if you find a decent set that will pass I always suggest grabbing them and using leather dye/paint to make them white. I checked a while back and found as set of brown ones, but they wanted $120.00 plus shipping. Ad the cost of the leather dye and time to do it and it was cheaper to get "regular" TK boots, lol. If anyone finds a decent ongoing supplier of quality ones I would like to add it to my reference book for the future.

Some great info in this post https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42381-howto-post-images-in-threads-using-imgur-easy/

Thank you Joseph, his passing was so sudden. A new day and feeling a bit better, trimming continues. I like to add inside strips just for a little more strength, some don't but I think they are especially important on the shins, with the constant opening and closing some extra strength is a good idea. Plenty of ABS strips left from the trimming, so cut them down to size, sand and glue to the insides. Within no time you'll have all the inner strips attached. Continuing trimming, again the sanding block comes in handy for nice straight lines. Add a guide line to the plastic belt and knee ammo strip, will help when it comes to trimming. Hold the pencil in the desired spot, keep your fingers against the other side and pull the pencil along. Once you have everything trimmed you can mark out the holes and angled edges on the belt. After the rough trim of the ab plates you can measure against the ab and trim to match. Getting the drop box backs nice and flat, if anyone is interested these are trimmed to 15mm. Now I do prefer using a rotary tool, many like using the score and snap method, what ever works for you. The advantages of using a rotary tool is you can save a lot of time, downfall is you'll end up with a lap full of ABS filings, now as long as you have nothing else on your chair you can save these for later to make ABS paste if it's needed. Just make sure it isn't contaminated with any other particles or the colour can change slightly. I always advise people to do their research before starting their build, it's a lot easier having info and references close by when you are trimming rather than having to stop and go online and search with every piece, then in no time flat, trimming is almost complete.

Thank you Rat and Joseph!

But don't forget to taper them. Your body is not cylindrical, but rather conical. So the top of your thigh is larger than your lower thigh and so on. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Quick question on the note of trimming (again). Is it possible to take too much off to deform the thigh? Or as long as I take equal amounts off the rear butt connection on both inner/outer thigh, I should be ok? I basically measured 6cm overlap - and taking 3 cm off the outer thigh piece looks like this (which mostly cuts off the straight end at the top):

That is what I did. I put it all together and then decided to trim them out. Which if you're concerned about it for accuracy it is totally screen accurate. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

There's been a lot of debating and been dubbed "shingate" due to the split in it. Mine are to the outside and are okay. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Welcome to the TK life You can notch out the back of thighs and shins, but I would (and probably others) recommend you to get everything assembled and tested before you do that.

Rest well good sir, but I hear ya. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Hahahaha! No worries about that. I will only say I thought the same and was surprised to find I'm 99% good for Centurion. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Like Glen said they're not required for basic, but we do like to see troopers go for the higher levels. It is totally an option and up to you though. My kit, an Anovos, came as you see them above. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Congratulations Jose!

It's not a huge deal but the hovi tips screen mesh should actually sit just inside, instead of at the tip edge. Keep up the great work Reference photo

Great work so far Lorelei . Looks like you've got some great advice also.

For the tube stripes ensure a pencil width from the "cheek" is where they should start.

Dan got you covered - I´ll just move along

Yeah, few people can actually walk normally up the stairs. Even at 6' I can't do it without having to go up a bit crab-ways. I can run in armor at least, so there is that. The truth is that with the legs you can either look great (not much black showing) or have fantastic mobility (have a lot of black showing). Few get both.

Walking up stairs in normally a challenge, if you can turn your legs out it can help. Some do do cut out sections in the rear of thighs and top of claves but I find I can deal with it, not often we use stairs

I wasn’t happy with mine so I gave it a little heat on both sides and twisted and held until it cooled. Heat is one of things you have to be careful with though. You can also cut a little notch under the front so it sits central over the cover strip. Definately use as much securing as you can, tape, magnets, clamps As Tony stated it’s perfectly acceptable to be a little wonky

I Just made a quick video documenting the recent extra detailing I have done on this DLT-19. All the bits used to detail it are linked to on the YouTube page.

Here is a video demonstration of the E11. If you want different pics of videos just let me know. I want to thank everyone on FISD for their ideas and inspiration. Thanks

Pinned Awesome.!