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Found this diagram by Ross (of RWA) which is where I got the boot idea from. Boot straps by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

So, I guess I still have more to post. After not wearing the armour for a bit, I put everything on this weekend in preparation for a big troop this weekend. I knew I’ve been losing a little weight, but I am now swimming in my armour. Not awesome. So, added a bunch of temporary padding. I also added extra straps to my biceps/shoulder bells to keep the biceps from popping out. Thighs were the worst. Also picked up some liners for my gloves. They can be tough to get off when all sweaty. Then I packed everything up forgetting I wanted to cut some ABS from off the back of my thighs. Rats. I’ll do that tomorrow when I weather my new E-11 from Quest Designs. I also need to add a spring to the action. My 3D print and the Quest Design E-11. Packing - arms go in shins which go into the thighs which go into the torso. Temp lining in my tote. Wife hasn’t got around to doing some sewing for me. I think she is protesting the whole thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spend too much money together?

Fits pretty good! Excuse for a new suit?

So after 2 years I thought it would be nice to walk in comfort. In order to achieve that I finally added the half moons to the back of the knee on my suit. I first started with some reference. Specifically this image: Reference by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr To actually make the change I put some blue masking tape, feel free to other colours, and drew on a line as best as I could to match the reference. Marking up the half moon mod by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr This done I got out my trusty HPI curved scissors and started cutting. This was just as scary as I remembered, if not more so as it would be a nightmare going back. 2nd leg cut by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr After cutting all the shins and thighs I ran some 240 grit over all the edges to remove any sharp edges or nicks from the mod. Rear knee half moon mod by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Whilst stairs are still a little bit of an issue, I'd need to shorten either the thigh, shin or maybe both to get much more flex, I can walk around much more comfortably now. Whilst I was at it I also added some elastic tethers to stop the shins twisting inwards. I don't have any photos but this is essentially about 2-3" of elastic with a female snap on it, attached to the pull on the boot with a keyring. Then theres the male snap about half way up the shin on the cover strip side just above the bra hook. The elastic is ever so slightly tensioned so it pulls on the shin. Theory is the snap is slightly off set to one side, so the tension in the elastic holds it from turning which would stretch it more. Will need to see how well it works in practice but it seemed okay for the 10 mins I tried earlier. If anyone's interested I'll try get some photos of the setup.

I had my kit out for a pre season check up at the end of last week, and well curiosity of the better of us. She's lost about 4 stone in the last year and so now is smaller than me in almost all dimensions. Who's in my suit! by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Wife stole my suit! by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr She couldn't see a thing as she couldn't get her glasses in but she quite enjoyed it! The photos are above are with no effort made to fit it to her. A few straps would need to be shorter but not a huge amount.

You only have to look at the replies on Wyatt's merchandise threads from happy customers who have received their orders

The couple that troop together Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Loving this! The photo's are great! The look on your face! Now you have a mannequin that moves!

Tried adjusting brightness, still hard to make out full details

There has been a lot of negativity surrounding FISD and our former DMBO lately and I thought I would inject some positivity instead of the mudslinging that the Legion boards seem to have (sadly) devolved to. I don't know Wyatt. I've talked with him via PM in my role as an attache a few times at most. Regardless of charges or what you think of him, he has poured everything into the Legion and this detachment for over a decade, from handling nearly every merch run on FISD to running Imperial Gaskets. I know I've only been a Legion member since November, but Wyatt... thanks for everything you have done for us here.

Personally for any splits or tears I like to add some pieces of ABS behind and glue with E6000, with the E6000 it does have some give and does allow a little movement unlike a lot of other glues that will just split if you put any strain on them. I would also in a corner add several layers of ABS, this will help to reinforce the fix.

Cool.. I think I'm going to order one. I stopped by Andrew's house today with my kit and he thinks I'm on point so far.. also, also gave me some great pointers. But yeah when I get the belt in hand... I would be down!

Thanks for starting this topic. Most of all, thank you, Wyatt, for all you've done for FISD and all your wonderful swag!

If you're asking specifically about the pre-approval forums, the answer is...kind of. Most of us here aren't nearly as familiar with the Spec Ops requirements and CRLs as we are our own. You would post here at your own risk, knowing we might end up giving you wrong advice. That said, we could probably help with things like fitting. Maybe you could ask the detachment leadership over at Spec Ops to come up with their own version of the pre-approval program? It's definitely been helpful here.

Don't ever be discouraged. I won't borked up some shins and had to order new ones. It happens. It's the end result that matters, and learning/enjoying as you go.

Great minds think alike. I was even going to do two to ensure it had strength and will not pivot on a single snap

Sounds like a plan. Make sure the snaps are very strong in this area, I would glue them directly, but that's me.

Hooks are not a requirement. When I need to control and area of movement I use nylon webbing, elastic is like using velcro, never know what's going to happen.

Good to know that the hooks aren't a requirement. I'm having issues with my bicep hook placement on this kit. Off they go!

Wow brother you have some long arms. My suggestion, ditch using the hook. Drop the bicep down until the tops of the biceps can be seen in the front and back of the bell. Install a single connecting strap between the bicep and bell, dead center on the inner rib. Later if you feel they're moving around too much you can install front and rear strapping to help keep them centered. There should roughly be 1/2" gap between the bicep and forearm but not sure you'll be able to pull that off without creating too much gap between the forearms and hand guards. Find the sweet spot, balance between elbow and wrist then post more photos. Keep up the good work.

Fits her well. The armor actually fits her better than mine on me that I'm currently making.

Quick update from this last weekend: The blaster came in! Here it is as a pile of parts: Since taking this picture, I've cleaned it up and sanded the rough edges. I might have another progress photo but there's not much to show. The pesky trigger guard has also been removed. The next step is to do one last sand, then black gloss finish, then Alclad chrome on top. THEN I get to assemble it. Weekends are not long enough. Cape! So we've been playing with making the cape, and after a giant amount of experimentation with this wonderful bright red fabric that I found cheap enough to sacrifice for Science(tm) [I'm sure Captain Cardinal would approve, not that I seek his approval.] The one thing we learned about the cape is: It has a mind of its own, and how exactly the bunchy side looks is entirely up to how it feels like folding. The final product will almost certainly be much more dramatic in how it moves and hangs. Unfortunately, I could not remember to take more pictures of the prototype across the front (since I had a mirror, and the photos were for my own reference on how the back looked. Alas, I cannot see my own backside.) After way too long of standing about and trying to figure out a prototype we came up with something like the above, which my Lord and Saviour of the Stitching (Kylo Ren is a tailor when he's not wrecking the nearest comms console) somehow magically distilled into a working pattern and transferred it to the final cloth. If you found the google slides presentation including "that one cape pattern", heed the warning that says "This is how I made a cape that I did not like". It was a really good starting point, but plenty of information bits were not all that accurate. Oh, for anyone curious about pocket dimensions: The D3 cape seems to have a pocket aspect ratio of roughly 0.3:1, the size that I ended up using was ~3"x~10" but they aren't all exactly the same. One thing we did note is, it doesn't seem like there is a rhyme or reason to the placement of the straps/pockets. That said, the exact size of them might vary considerably considering we aren't all 6'90" and have different shoulder widths. You can see my super elaborate random squares of cloth pinned where the pockets should go. Notable: They don't sit in a straight line when laid flat, but somehow (I dunno how), it looks right when worn. Fabric is a mystery to me, but Kylo understands it, so that's good. Next weekend we're going to stitch the actual proper cape and finalize placement, so I'm going to actually reserve passing some information on until I have those pictures. This bright-red Cardinal-approved prototype is too messy for me to use as a "we did this and it worked well" example. I'm just posting here because #documentation and I'm a programmer so I document everything (that was a lie). THE CLOTH: The CRL for TFA LvII cert mentioned "diagonal weave canvas" as the material used. From what I could make of the images provided in this really super cool forum post that was the best reference ever, a black cotton bull denim looks about as armorweave as a canvas. The issue I ran into is, I can't find, if it exists, a canvas with a diagonal weave. However, bull denim is available in most craft stores. I'm not textile savvy but I think I levelled up in this hunt. This weekend I'll hopefully have the supplies to finish my armorweave, then we can stitch it. I've ordered a bunch of latex stuff so I can do some science, and share how I eventually coat the material, but the end result will be this fabric with a liquid latex coating. (Though it also looks like silicone might've been used, given the D3 pics, so I might try that if this doesn't work, but I'm about 82.1% sure that the latex should do fine.) So yeah, that's progress dump #1, tune in next week for more insanity that I can hopefully distill into something that's starting to look more like an outfit and less like a supply pile. I'm super jazzed about the armorweave cape, though. In other news: I'm going to poke Imperial again about gaskets (I've been slacking on those), still waiting on the TK Talkie to ship, and Jim will be back on the 6th of May from a vacation, at which time my kit should arrive. Then it's off to the people with the giant vacuum tank to make it Valhalla-approved Chrome. Ciao, Mau!

Looks like the ASP baton in the nylon holster like previously mentioned to me.

Nice work

I'd leave it there.

Bradberry00, I do not know if you offering the buckles in general or if you were directing your post to me. In any case thanks for the offer but I have already ordered mine. Ok guys, thanks to Mr. Paul, I ordered what Coleman’s is calling a Swedish Military 35L Backpack W/Frame at the same time I ordered my Norweigan Military Storage Box. What I got is “I think” a M75 frame? You tell me??? If it is a M75 then I ScoredJ Also in my quest to locate NGK floatmaster I ran across this if anyone is really desperate for a fishing pole and anything will do. Well, it is a Star Wars fishing pole… Anyway, I did post a link previously of where I did locate a US seller of NGKs and once it comes in I will update you all. Also, as promised, the OD green LC-2 shoulder straps came in and they are the correct LC-2 shoulder straps. Here is a picture with them next to the more common woodland pattern LC-2 shoulder straps. I also posted the link of where to order these OD shoulder straps from in the US in a previous post. I will be documenting my build in my ROTK build thread here

Looking good Jesse! I need to apply for my Centurion soon.

Un-paused (though helmet purchase TBD): In case you didn't read the thread, I'm converting my stunt belt for use with the Hero suit, so I'll need a new belt for this one to stay Centurion accurate. I've gone ahead and ordered a new (slightly shorter) belt from Rob. For the rest, well... Stunt Belt, Hero Belt & Belt Repair I bought a used Anovos belt off of the Legion forums a few months ago for $60. The seller had bought it from someone else and ended up not needing it. At some point someone had rebuilt it, but I wasn't a fan of how they had done so - they simply cut the plastic off of the canvas portion of the belt and then used a combination of glue and Velcro to attach it to the new one. Here's some pictures from the sale thread, for reference: Here's the same belt, one I'd received it and dismantled it: I'm going to be using the holster for my Hero belt, while the plastic bits are going to become Stunt Belt 2.0. There is too much glue on the canvas belt to re-use, sadly, even though the size is perfect. If anyone wants a 39" TKittell belt, it's yours (FREE!), just pay shipping. One of the first things I've done is give the plastic portion a hot water bath as it seems to have warped at some point. Before: After: I then drilled out the rivets and removed what remained of the original cloth belt: I haven't removed the caps yet. I'm a little scared because my track record isn't so great - on the first belt I destroyed two of them and sliced my thumb open. EDIT - Forgot to mention the holster! I had to measure and re-do the holes in the straps as it was mounted way too close to the belt, as well as making it work for two or four mounting points (stunt vs. hero for you folks who don't read CRLs): Old holes on the left. Strap is upside-down from original configuration. Top hole mounted to the holster, bottom hole was the hole used to mount to the canvas belt. There was zero gap between the two. I ended trimming roughly 1/8" total length to ensure a 1" gap between the holster and belt. I then used cap rivets to re-attach them to the holster (it used chicago screws previously) as well as replacing the pop rivet used to hold the strap that keeps the blaster in with another rapid cap rivet.

Looking great!

I tend to purchase mine off ebay, a lot cheaper I have found than websites. Anything from China usually has free shipping BUT it is slow, 6 to 8 weeks so if you aren't in a hurry for them there isn't a problem. As I have found over time you can never have enough of them, the more the merrier

Agreed! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for your comments! The blaster is from RS Propmasters. She is a beaut! [emoji2] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always great to see a new build, Craig! Just take your time, ask as many questions as you need and keep the photos coming. One suggestion is to ditch the canvas belt that comes with the Anovos kit (they are really flimsy) and upgrade to something a lot thicker that is reinforced. I recommend getting one of Rob's (Tkittell), which are custom made to order for your size and super heavy duty: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ If you are aiming for higher screen accuracy, you should consider the EI and Centurion levels, which are much easier to do during your build rather than after. Here is a bit more info. on those: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/ I have a few quick tutorials located under my signature below that may help as well.

Hi Ignacio! Unfortunately, your links are not working. You will need to post the images on a site like imgur (imgur.com) so they can be seen here. Here is a link to a tutorial on that, and I look forward to seeing them! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42381-howto-post-images-in-threads-using-imgur-easy/

If you mean the cloth belt, Troy, that really depends on your GML. The canvas belt that is supplied with the Anovos kit is really flimsy, and may pass basic approval but certainly not anything higher. It's strange that their holster is very well built, but they cheaped out on the canvas. I highly suggest replacing it with a heavy-duty type, such as one from Rob (TKittell) located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ The quality is top-notch, as is the customer service. Plus, he custom makes them to fit you perfectly. If you are referring to the anovos ABS plastic belt, it is indeed approvable at all levels when constructed properly.

More progress today, e6000’ed the power cylinders on. And put a war machine end cap on the air soft Ground the inside down little with my mill, and finished with my Dremel. Since I don’t have a rotary table yet Some taps of the rubber hammer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Todays mission was shoulder bells...used my TM:s as a guide and well not much to it, draw a line, cut, sand and glue som elastic and you’re done And that’s it, time to shower and head home to watch football or soccer as some of you call it - it’s a derby - veeeeery important game

Okay, here we go... Very very close to done. This was a very quick build-time...going for maximum effect with minimal time and effort. Got it done in about 3 weeks, even out of town for business for some of that. I went a bit more minimal on weathering (wanted the look of a newish gun). Every mod I did do was with items sourced or made myself. I think this will be a good trooping gun and I'm not as afraid to break something if something goes horribly wrong. Thanks to Dan/Cable-guy for the Hengslter counter image. It's perfect! The one mod that I have left to do is the reset button. I'll do that in the next couple of days. Just did brass weathering on the brass parts, of course, but the screw in the Hengstler top cap is also brass, so a little weathering highlight on that sucker for realism. I didn't do the solder pins. Not all E11's have them, and I don't want those sharp pokey bits on my trooping gun. I used Rustoleum primer, flat black and gloss black. I didn't go for any texture, because I want to be completely true to the 60's Sterlings that were used. Also, I dry brush weathered, because I definitely like the look and control of that method the best and I'm thinking the overall paint finish may ultimately prove more durable. The Rustoleum flat black isn't quite perfect (as satin would have been), but I will be rubbing a light coat of bees wax on all the flat black bits. I've tested this and it creates a perfect satin paint over metal look, creates good depth and realism and just makes the detail pop a bit more. I'll do that when the weathering highlights are cured. Getting the lenses in is tricky, as others have noted. One of the more critical moments of the build. I went with E6000, placed in the cavity, right at the point that the lens would stop. I used a tweezer type of tool, positioned it best I could over the cavity, and quickly pushed the lens down with my finger into position. Worked well. I put the reticle right behind the lens, held in place by 2 tiny fragments of scotch tape...so that it's not visible at all. In stead of paying $50 for a pack of printable overhead sheets, I just had a single transparent page printed through Staples Copy and Print with the reticules on them. Cost me 3 bucks. Can't wait for my first troop! I'll put in my EIB and Centurion apps pretty soon too...I want them to be with leather boots though, so I'm waiting on my Imperial Boots order to arrive!

Hello FISD! It's been a long time since my last update, but exams and holidays kept me from working on the E11. HOWEVER: today finally marks the day where the trigger mod struggles come to an end! This was the main issue I wanted to make my way round for a long time, but now that it's been done, it really wasn't that hard I started by fitting the nail and the trigger into the grip and filled up the hole with green stuff: Next, I glued the trigger guard and filled up the little spaces between the guard and the rest of the grip with more green stuff: And then I decided to make the most of the really warm weather in Germany right now and carried on in the garden and installed the bayonet lug and the end cap clip - both with little metal pins that I got out of snapping nails in two or three equally large parts: These updates now leave the blaster at this state: It's quite fascinating how simply adding the trigger and the guard suddenly turn this piece of resin into something that looks a lot like an E11 already - and I'm really looking forward to adding the other parts that are still missing. Also I decided to cancel my pre-order of the ANOVOS kit and as soon as my money is back in my account, I'll get an RS props kit - I've been waiting for the kit for almost 6 months longer than I should have, and this annoyed me quite a bit. So instead I am going to finally get my kit soonish, and sadly I probably won't be able to get it done by the 12th of May where the Role Play Convention is taking place in Cologne (unless I find someone who lives around Duisburg and is willing to give me a hand and build up the armor within less than a month), but the next event will come, and until then I will finally have my armor checked and will be a 501st member. And I can tell you, I'm very much looking forward to this day! Cheers, Freddy out!

Belt time...thanks to belts of the first order Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just finished it about 30 minutes ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ya, that's actually one of the smallest gaps out there haha. You'll be perfectly fine. PS, assuming you're using the default theme for the forum, check out the guy on the right side of the forum page's background. His gap is bigger than yours

Okie dokie well Spring Break came and went and I was on a hell of a roll. Would have been done guranteed! But... my TRamp mini scope display took a crap.[emoji21] had it all installed glued in the scope and then tested it and nothing. I about cried , worked fine before install. So I mailed it back to dude and maybe he can fix it? If not I will be buying another... blamming it on my 3.7 lipo. It was puffy and putting out over 4 volts now that I diagnosed it... but who knows. I will be trying a lithium ion next.. i sincerely hop it still fits in my magazine otherwise im screwed! So up until then I etching primered, 1 silver coat, 2 flat black coats and then weathered with light sanding. Wasnt getting that chipped look I wanted with the sanding just a bunch o lines, you can still see them. Then did a couple coats of Hammered black. Tried sand weathering again to no avail. Hit it with a light coat of hammered and then used silver run n buff to achieve that silver undertone. Can get carried away with the rub n buff, amazing stuff! For the scope I did a coat of gold and then flat black and hammered. Sanding didnt work so I ordered antique gold rub n buff. Just finished hitting it with that and i'm happy!! Flat black on the grip and half of the counter box. So my goal for the gun was to match the weathering on the real folding stock... I think I hit it pretty good and so happy I dont hate it lol the hammer finish dries heck fast and hecka hard. Still has a lil bit more of a shine than I wanted but we will see... Im sure there was a better technique for weathering than the sanding which I will now look into after the fact lol Now to wait for the battery and new Mini scope and figure out the holder and charger for it... soo close! Trying to think of a name for my sweetie... Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Scope before and after-now time to paint and weather.

Got the counter attached and the scope in place. I made some little metal contacts for the Counter. -Not sure if they are film accurate? All additional nuts, screws, and other "bits" now in place so ready for a coat of paint over the weekend. I made a basic stand with some aluminium rod and mirror perspex-except it lists to the side due the all the "extras" being located on one side but should be an easy fix.