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Then I can stop crying

After seeing some other cool videos today, I thought I’d stick this on here. I mentioned on another platform that I’d managed to get kitting up, solo, to under 10 minutes. Well, this prompted a challenge to make a video of kit up, kit down and box up. Although the GoPro didn’t like the artificial light, so apologies for the poor video quality, I did it and here is the result.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And...also subscribed just to put some pressure for future episodes

Ok Daniel, Since I couldn't post my school troop video, I put together a video compilation of trooper action shots. Prepare yourself for 3 minutes of heart-pounding thrills as I put my armour through it's paces. TK34575 Video Hopefully the link works - when it comes to video and youtube, I have no idea what I'm doing.

Based on the idea I saw in Ruthar's FOTK build thread I purchased a motorcycle half helmet liner for mine, it fits inside the helmet very well, it's comfortable, allows for some ventilation since it's not a solid liner, puts my eyes at the proper level, and prevents the helmet from moving around on my head. This one is a Scorpion EXO-C110 KwickWick liner in Large for reference (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDQ3P18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

That works. The main things I am seeing... Lose the Disney handcuffs. They aren't in the CRL and as such are an unapproved accessory (even though plenty of us, myself included, own and troop with them) Your holster is on the wrong side? It should be on the left hand side for ANH, right for ESB/ROTJ. Boots are not correct, you want something from ImperialBoots or TKBoots preferably. There are other options on Amazon that will at least get you through the door, but those aren't much more expensive and are much better quality, and more accurate. Your ab buttons are wrong - looks like you used a mix of the correct part as well as parts meant for your belt (to cover rivets). It should look like this: Not this: General fit of parts could be better. Shoulder bells are flaring out and may be too big. Cod piece is very low and covers up your thigh armor. Thigh ammo pack looks like it had the corners over-trimmed, may not be an issue but if possible you may want to look into fixing/replacing it. It should look like this: Probably more I've missed, those are the big ones I noticed right away though. Your suit is fixable, don't get discouraged. Hope this helps!

Don't see too many Legacy TK build threads... It's like watching a bizarro version of a regular TK build. Keep up the good work!

Congrats Mark nice work and welcome to EIB

Congrats trooper and welcome to Expert Infantry!

Angle of ears looking much better now Left: Right:

Hi Mark, welcome and thank you for your EIB application. Let's take a look. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All the required submission photos have been posted., your armour displays all necessary element as set out in the level 2 CRL, Congratulations. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. If any suggestion affects any application, it will be listed separately in the above or below sections. Very sharp indeed Mark, great build and it fits you so well. Hard to find much wrong here at all, so only some tiny little tweaks to speak of. The shoulder bells could still come in at the tops sp they are virtually if not touching the plastic shoulder bridge. one sits a touch closer than the other, so some small top strap adjustment will sort that out. reference The only other item is a nice to have for accuracy thing The screw used on a Thermal Det were slotted pan head as opposed to the dome head type. reference Centurion Suggestions: In this section we prepare you the best we can for Centurion. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. We can only again see one very slight adjustment to be made, this one is required to meet the level 3 CRL Your drop boxes out of alignment with the emds of the plastic ammo portion of the belt For level three certification (if applicable): Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. We find ourselves at the end of a great application, a wonderful and tidy build, and another successful Expert Infantry applicant. Congratulations Mark, Tony and i hope to see you in Centurion review soon.

Thanks for the input fellas. I have the day off an I’m snowed in so touching up details, painting rivet/screw heads and picking off bits of e-6000 here and there. Sniper plate is clamped and gluing with pics to follow. Just need to glue thigh garters on and done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahhh thank you!!! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

That's awesome!!! Mark

That's impressive, Dan! Armor is looking good! I do not yet have the confidence to broadcast me struggling through my kitting-up. And, I can't seem to get my second arm on without help - well, to be honest I don't think I have even tried. I like the idea of using a strap for the amp. My electronics are attached to the armor, so I have some fiddling around with wires when I put my helmet on - which I also need a second pair of hands for.

Have now, my friend. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I’m only a few days away from submitting my pre approval pics. Do you all mind looking over my helmet for any improvements? I built it early on before starting my build thread. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey?! And you didn’t on mine???

Haah! It was awesome! Worth the wait The armor looked great

I’m already waiting for Episode V - The Housework Strikes Back. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha ha. You subscribed? I guess I will have to do another one eventually.

Haha. Love it!! (FYI, I’m your 1st YouTube subscriber) [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha that video is hilarious on some parts - really enjoyed it. Really nice shots and good work as always!

That was an awesome video! Very nice!

Yeah I feel a little bobblehead like with the hard hat liner, maybe I will get some padding and try it. I like to have options. Thanks guys Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

That is awesome! A true stormtrooper at work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wear a hard hat at work, it was an easy transition for me. I have Motorcycle and skateboard helmets. When there's excessive shaking but movement for ventilation I prefer padding, when in costume when a majority of time I'm just standing there I prefer a liner, better ventilation IMO.

Mimic is finishing the first half and shipping today (whatever that means across the pond) I got my message while I was asleep. Still grinding away on my FO Pilot softgoods for that ship soon, just having some paint issues I think I'm gonna wait to paint till days that are 60 and above anytime I try to paint anywhere near 50 the paint makes a weird cracking thing

Definitely not a TM.

Your strapping is too tight which is causing the overlap on your waist. The back section is butted up too tightly as well. The parts want to be loose so the armour can move as you move. I like to leave a small gap between the parts. Regarding the shoulder bridges, glue 3 or 4 of the thin strips onto your chest plate to allow more coverage onto the back plate. I have built armour for people 6' 6" before so it can be done

Got a chance to talk to Del and have her sign my copy of Phasma at Emerald City Comic Con this past weekend. She's lovely and I dearly hope she gets invited to the next Celebration. She'd love to see some of the Phasma and Cardinal costumes in person. She loves and is shocked by just how strongly Cardinal has grabbed some of us who read the book. She said someone from the 501st has e-mailed her several times to work things out for the costume. I assume that's the LMO? And she reaffirmed pretty much what I said prior -- that Cardinal is essentially a standard First Order Stormtrooper, except for the bits she consider's Captain's accoutrements: Cape and boot armor. And, like me, she refuses to believe we've seen the end of Phasma in TLJ. She's survived and overcome too much to let something like that take her out.

Love to see more ESB - good luck!

Last night I started off by gluing the read thigh inner strips. Then it was on tho the front cover strips. To speed things up, I went back to CA glue for the rear shin strips. Note to self......don’t use blue tape and hinge method on strips visible from the outside. After setting up I was left with tons of blue tape residue that encountered the glue. I spent about an hour cleaning things up using various techniques. My awl worked best. Finally, I installed the white closure velcro. Since everything else was drying I built my trooping hangars elastic bands. Fast forward to the next day.....hand guard elastic glued to hand guards. And finally tonight, attaching elastic strips to the shoulder bells. Now, I need to let everything dry. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Https://jasonmaurer3511.Imgur.com Here is the correct link. I know my suit sucks so be gentle with comment. I got my costume from anovos.

Start a new topic here

Awesome Paul, Centurion all the way! I guess you report to yourself, how’s that going to work Lord Vader. Matt

Ugh! I am very jealous of your painting skills. It makes me want to go back and re-work mine lol. Well done on your bucket!

Great work! The painting on that trap is really neat! lol - I know what you mean with the kids. My five year old wears my old lid and walks around saying “move along, move along”. Btw, that looks like a beautiful collection in the background.

Beautiful. Thanks heaps. I’m having mine laser cut from acrylic tomorrow. May or may not be strong enough. But trying to make as much as possible myself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As many of you know, the 501st elections have come to a close. The FISD membership has spoken. Congratulations to our 2018 FISD Detachment Leader Paul (Daetrin)!!!!

Firstly, congratulations on getting your RS armour, it’s great to work with and looks fantastic when completed. Forearms... left has 11 indents Right has 12 indents, The inner forearms ... right has a scoop on the inside, where your elbow goes, it’s also longer than the outer piece ... also the front cover strip fits on the ridge , which makes it stand out more, the back of the armour doesn’t have ridges Biceps.... the left inside bicep has the dint in it , the right inside doesn’t have a dint Shoulder bells.... the left shoulder Bell is the one that has the little curve at the bottom of the raised ridge, the curved bit faces forward Left thigh trimmed, right thigh un-trimmed The greaves/ shins are the same for the left and right leg This was my RS armour when I got it And this is what it can end up like Hope this helps, any more questions, just ask Cheers Stephen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Painting Gloss Painting With the primer down, sanded, and ready to go, I pulled out the cans of white gloss. I used Rustoleum 2x gloss white. It took another 6 cans of the gloss paint to cover all of the pieces. As before, I began with a semi-coverage initial coat followed by a second light coat to finish the coverage. Here are some in-progress shots of those coats: Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr After the first two coats, wait about 15 minutes for the paint to be dry to the touch. Then, sand the surfaces with 1500 sandpaper to remove all of the small particles that may have found their way into the paint. Sanding between these coats of paint will significantly help the effectiveness of the gloss at the end. Once the sanding is finished and the parts are debris free, proceed with the third coat. I go a bit heavier now with this third coat as we are hunting for a glossy finish. You can see the pieces begin to shine now that the paint is applied more heavily. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr At the end of the third coat, sand once again with a very fine sandpaper (I moved up to 2000 from 1500 for this last preparation phase). Remove any and all debris once more before applying the final, heaviest coat. During this fourth and final coat, I use a headlamp to hunt for any imperfections along the way as well as check the effectiveness of the gloss. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr After the final, heavy coat, leave the armour undisturbed for a handful of hours to start the drying process. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr After 5-6 hours, I moved the parts inside to dry in a more controlled environment. I wouldn't suggest moving the pieces much sooner than that as the paint is still quite receptive to markings and blemishes while the undercoats are still drying. Here are some final shots of the painted pieces after a full day of drying indoors. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr I suggest leaving the pieces to dry for another few days if possible. Maximum paint adhesion on plastic is achieved in 5-7 days (according to the Rustoleum can printed directions), and there is a whole lot of paint (12-13 cans total!) on these pieces, so just be patient and let the pieces settle before any major handling.

So, a lot of people jump in with both feet not really knowing the cost ramifications of going 100% complete on their TK. We look around at armor makers and get their pricing and think, "wow thats a lot, but ok." Then they realize there are accessories to add to the suit, and tools to build the suit and strapping, snaps, bolts and so on. So my goal here is to help people by laying out a general cost reference for the stuff they will ned to buy. This way you can make an educated decision about your finances how you will make a TK work so it does not break the bank and have you selling it a few months later. This will be a range type pricing. There are parts that are more expensive and some that are lower cost. At the very end, to help you with the accessories and armor, I have put links to the ongoing accessories listing and well as the approved armor vendors listing. These posts help compile ways to contact the sellers who have the required parts. One little tip as well, just because something is a different cost then another doesn't make it worse/better than the next item available. When you read through the sale thread for the individual items, you can also read the reviews to get a feel for the quality of an item. People with a bad history or a bad product aren't allowed to sell here. So do the research and make an educated decision. The FISD does not dictate pricing to sellers, so you are the only one who can decide what price is right for the item you want, thats why there are multiple sellers for most items. To start, the most important bit: The armor (with helmet) - The pricing ranges widely depending on accuracy, type of scupt (fan vs screencopy) and quality. Some of the lower end pricing does not include a helmet! Keep this in mind when you do the research on armor makers and make sure that you get a helmet with the suit as well. Price range: $550-$1500 Any set of armor that you can find here on the FISD through the approved sellers will look great if you build it right. The suits on the higher end of the spectrum are like luxury cars. Do you need them? Not really, but it's so nice to have them and the attention to the finer details really sets them apart. The Rest - This is the part that people sometimes forget about. These are pieces like the boots, the cloth belt, holster and so many other little things that help you to complete the suit. These parts I am detailing aren't optional (with the exception of the blaster) so in order to get approval from the Legion and join us, you will need every single item I am detailing. Many of these prices do not take into account shipping fees, since I can't detail them all and they vary wildly between sellers location and your location. Most are very fair here on shipping costs though. I will detail the expected pricing for these parts and then will recap everything at the end. Boots - There are several options for these. There are sellers who have white leather bots that are made especially for stormtroopers. These are the accurate style and the leather is dyed white so you never have to worry about chips to the paint. The other option is to go with black Jodphur boots, get some white leather paint, prep and paint the boots. This is how they did it in the films and is likely to be cheaper then the white leather route, but involves more work, up front and in the end. So you have to decide on if you're willing to trade ease of use for film replica style. Price range: $60-$100 Neck Seal - This part is generally custom made to order from a few different sellers to fit your neck size. Zippers, velcro and other closure types are available. Price range: $35-$80 Rubber Gloves/Hand Guards - This is one of those parts that isn't 100% required. The gloves yes! However they do not need to be rubber for basic approval, they can be black form fitting gloves, just check on the CRL for the specific requirements depending on the level of certification you are aiming for. Most armor vendors will include a set of ABS plastic hand guards with the armor, so unless you're going for a higher level of accuracy certification with the FISD, the ones with the armor will do. On the other hand, if you want to get centurion LV3 certification, you will need to get rubber gloves and latex/silicone handguards. Price range: $25-$50 depending on options Undersuit - Easily overlooked, this is one of the most important parts of the whole setup! You will want a plain black suit either 2 or 1 piece construction and it should be form fitting with no excess fabric hanging around. The best is any type of compression wear made for under sports clothes/suits to keep the wearer cooler/warmer based on the weather and construction. The best place to find these are at any general department store like WallMart (US) or a sporting goods store. If you decide on a 1piece suit, make sure there is a zipper to go pee. It's hard enough to get out of a 1 piece without having to worry about bathroom pressure. Price range: $30-$120 for the top and bottom. Holster - Most times these are made from leather, but can also be imitation leather. Price range: $30-$70 Cloth Belt - This is the belt that the ABS ammo belt attaches to and goes around your waist to connect at your back and you hang your TD on. Price range: $30-$70. E-11 Blaster (Optional) - The blaster is optional for Legion acceptance. Not all countries allow for even toy weapons so the legion does not require them. The price ranges widely here because you can get these as kits or fully built. Most kits are pretty easy to put together and paint yourself if you have the time. Price range $80-$800 Tools - Now this is a hard to peg hole. You will need curved scissors for cutting plastic, a drill/hole puncher, a rivet tool, tools for setting snaps. Price range: $20-$100 Strapping supplies - You can go with screen accurate brackets, or you can use straps and snaps to put your armor together and hold it in place. You will need some skinny black elastic, skinny white elastic, wide black elastic, wide white elastic. For details on how skinny/wide and so on check out the replica section. You will need snaps as well. Price range: $20-$100 Recap! Here is the pricing once again, in one place with no descriptions: Armor: $550 - $1500 Boots: $60 - $100 Neck Seal: $25 - $80 Gloves/handguards: $25 - $50 Undersuit: $30 - $120 Holster: $30 - $70 Cloth Belt: $30 - $70 Blaster: $80 - $800 Tools: $20 - $100 Strapping: $20 - $100 In total: $870 - $2990 For my knowledge, most people will be right in the middle, around the $1200-$1500 range for a fully complete wearable Stormtrooper costume. Now here are a couple of this that aren't included in this list... Time required to build. Time is money. Time building it time away from your friends, family, dog, work and so on. Unless you find a way to include them! But it's not like you're working, it's a hobby and you're having.. at least you should be! You can bank about 40-50 hours of build time for your first build. This does not include time spent researching on the computer, waiting for glue to dry and so on. This is purely time sitting on front of a armor piece working. There are people who offer a build service for a price. Average cost.. ??? Not cheap. Lets break down these costs a little. An experienced builder will take 20-30 hours to build your kit, and make sure it fits to your body as best as possible. This is a specialized skill, in a niche market which means there aren't so many people doing it. If they were being paid by the hour... say $20 a hour, which should be a good rate for a specialized job. $20 per hour for 20 hours is $400 bucks. However, a builder who gets a kit done with a high level of quality and workmanship in this time frame will ask for a bit more, more like $30. Now these are just estimated. If you have questions about a builder for your armor, post on the forums, or do some research you'll find people who do builds for you and they can answer your question directly. Links: Combined on-going accessories listing Various types of armors and where to find them Good luck with your build and have fun!

Never been true at all. Is it easier to join 501st with a different costume? Certainly. A stormtrooper is far more difficult to build than some other costumes, like a crewman. But nothing stops you from going with a TK straight off the bat.