Leaderboard

Oops, I did it again. Another BBB. It was actually a couple days ago but I’ve been too busy to open it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for kicking this off! We have very few legacy build threads but a surprising amount of legacy troopers in the Legion. Hoping this will become canonical

Thanks for all the feedback on biceps. I did the hooks, however did not do the straps in them. The straps will do the job perfectly..

For charging their Imperial Phone, (or iPhone for short)...

Bicep hooks can also help to keep things in place.

The practical popper method is popular. As below, one popper on inside of the bell and another popper on the inside of the bicep, connected by (approx) 1inch wide elastic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Gary, Overall, you’ve done a great job on your build - you wear it really well. :-) Just a couple of things have hit me, at a glance, that need adjusting for your target of Centurion. Your drop boxes should align with the outside edge of the main belt. Also, you could probably straighten the 45degree corners of the belt, rather than soft curves. (See reference gallery for examples - should line up with the canvas of the belt) The magazine on your E-11 appears to be backwards. Just a dressing issue, but you might want to try and line up the thighs and shins for a slightly neater look. One final thing I’d mention is the inside of the mic tips should be white to the inner edge. Easy changes. You’ve done a cracking job on that!

Happy to knock some up for you, Tom.

You need automotive spot putty, the same stuff they use on plastic bumpers. 90 degree flexibility. The PPG DFL1 can be found at your local auto body supply store. It has built in hardener so no mixing required.

Wook's got it right. Loose the return edge now and leave enough room to squeeze your hand through. The more form fitting the better. Less padding needed, and no popeye arms.

I used the Devcon (btw has come down in price significantly since my build) mainly for assembly and the top of the yoke as a filler. All other areas I used 3M or DFL1 spot putty (for areas under 1/8" thickness). The reason I highly recommend is the easy of use. With mixing tips it's almost impossible to screw up the process. The gun makes it very easy to control and manage. As for the glue itself, full cure in 45 minutes max, pliable (to an extent) and relatively easy to shape as a peak (a nightmare to work with in valleys). All in all it took me roughly 4 cartridges and a pack 10 tips for the entire armor plus reworks and paint prepping. I still use it today on many other armor projects. If $ is not an object and you want something that wont crack over time, and you plan to pro paint I can't recommend any other product (and I've tried them all working in the auto industry for 35 years). That said this is only my opinion. I've seen just as fine work from others using other products.

I was going to ask you where you got the numbers, now I know! Lol I'm still to do mine, just waiting for clearance and my TK number first Great work mate! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Name: Mark Bouillon FISD forum name: Mark_Bouillon 501st Member Page: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=25525 TK-26383 German Garrison Costume Information Mandatory Information Armor = TM Helmet= TM Blaster= RS-Props Optional Height 183 cm Weight = 79 kg Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = TM Hand Plates = TM Electronics= Selfmade Neck Seal = Selfmade Holster = TM Front viev Left side Left side Detail Right side Right side Detail Rear view Action Shot Abdomen Details Helmet Hovie Details Green Lens S-Trim Helmet Interior Shoulder Straps and Neckseal Interior Strapping Forearms no Return Edge Cod and Buttplate connection Ammobelt and Dropboxes Termal Detonator Thigh Ammopack Sniper Knee Blaster Thank you for your consideration.

Name: Greg Bell Height: 5’10” Weight: 165 lbs FISD Forum Name: Wook1138 Legion ID #: 34575 Garrison: Badlands 501st Member Page: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=27237 Armor: AP Helmet: AP Blaster: E-11 (3D printed kit from Blaster Master) Boots: TK Boots Canvas Belt: AP Hand Plates: Rubber (AP) Electronics: Trooper Talk w Aker 1505 amp Neck Seal: Geeky Pink’s Phantastic Gaskets Holster: AP Build Thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43437-wooks-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/ Pictures: Thank you for your consideration!

Logo was just to illustrate color reference anyway. Regarding colors... I kept what was there. If you wanted to start changing things I'd almost say make Chief Admin orange, then Admins can be a brighter red... but then I'd also want to make Attaché teal so you'd get a rainbow effect, e.g.: C. Admin Admins Staff IPM Attachés TK/501st Member Guest Dan, I like the current font because A.) it matches what we already have, logo-wise and B.) it tolerates heavy condensation, which is great for these long-winded user ranks in such small spaces. As for the cartoony feel, to each their own I guess? I wasn't aiming for photo-realistic to begin with.

You should be good to go then.

Bend/shape a piece of metal or plastic around the lip Not as screen accurate but looks way better with those supports.

Imperial warfighters (FB) has a great rubber blaster for Centurion level and at a great price

Finally I have made progress enough to actually feel like it’s worth posting on. With my left thigh I applied and removed my front cover strip four times and couldn’t get my edges tight enough to be satisfactory. I eventually had to accept the gap at the bottom and filled it in with ABS paste as Daniel suggested. I put the inner strip on first for a backing for the paste. I had already trimmed the right top to align before seeing MrSnrubs advice. I just cut it to match the same profile. For the thigh ammo plate I cut down the height to about 4mm from each box. For the length I only trimmed off the minimum of rough edge and that length worked out well. I used my TD to mark the corner profile. I put it in a hot water bath to make a nice curve easier to work with while attaching. I found a saucepan I had about the same circumference as the thigh bottom and boiled it for about a minute. Remove with tongs and hold in position wearing gloves to cool in place. Drilled rivet hole 10 mm in and down from back top corner of belt and aligned about 1/4 inch from back edge of thigh. Attached with tube rivets. I also slightly trimmed back the lower margin of the cover strip because it seemed like it would fit best slightly angled up and abutting the strip. Then applied glue and clamped. Final result I have also made good progress on the shins (last step!!!) but I’ll post that later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would be more concerned about if the cover strip is adequately holding the two halves together. If you think it's strong enough leave it. If the gap bothers you either finish removing the return edge or add scrap behind the gap to conceal it.

Hi Matthew very nice and accurate work. I see another Centurion joinig the ranks very soon

You can actually trim off the rear big tab of the shoulder straps, the original didnt have any, I just added those as a extention. Mark (AP)

Nice work, apart from what has already been mentioned, you could bring up your biceps a bit as the shoulder bell is not covering your right one on the back photo. Also on the back photo you can see one of your shoulder straps is sticking up and the other is contouring the back plate. Looks like your chest plate is just covering your ab on the side photos, would suggest a tighter elastic there, could also help to bring your cod up a little to give you some more room at your thighs. Good luck with approval

Everything in small steps, a heat gun on plastic takes some practice, if I saw then what I do with one now I'd freak

Yeah no more heat gun for me to close a call on the forearm. I may trim just a hair off the top and bottom. By hair I mean 1 or 2 mm which is mostly remnant anovos line. Sanding may do better than cutting. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Looking good trooper. Also,a great example of how a hot water bath can solve issues. No Heat Guns!!!

Nice work. That's scary stuff that ends up not being so scary.

The cover strip should cover that up no problem. And, adding an internal cover strip is a must. Shins see a lot of force on them when putting them on and off. Also, put the heat gun away! Try a hot water bath instead. Heat guns are not forgiving, and many have had parts ruined by their fiery breath. Keep up the good work!

Pictures would help, but as long as a cover strip will cover this area there shouldn't be an issue, adding an internal strip would also help to cover and add strength to the area.

Since a lot of the forum skin has rounded corners, I made a couple options for rounded (and more rounded) corners, thoughts? A.) Square: B.) Slightly Round: C.) Very Round:

Has come out really well, great work

Doubt anyone will ever notice. Nice work

Thank you both! It was a bit scary at first but really not hard at all. Here is the butt plate before sanding with ABS paste and now after sanding I don't think I need to smooth out too much more. What are your thoughts?

Progress Report for thermal detonator and belt: I ordered these screws to use on my thermal detonator from home depot online since they did not have anything in store. I cut about 3/8" off my TD and tapered the edges. I was planning on using the boiling water method, but after tapering the edges the end caps slid right on and I could not remove them. I could not use my magnets since the end caps were stuck on so I went with just taping the crap out of them. While the TD glue and black screw paint were drying I decided to take on the belt. Again I used Ukswrath Anovos build as my guide so not many in progress pics of the belt. The most difficult part of the belt for me was making holes in the TKittell belt. That thing is solid. I ended up having to use my soldering iron to puncture it. This next pic shows the s-poppers installed thru the torso again using measurements from Ukswrath build thread. I also used the pencil lead on the s-poppers to mark the belt hole locations. I believe all I have left are the shoulder covers and holster.

A good place to keep making progress is the biceps...that's where I started! Just be sure to double-check the sizing before you trim at the joint.

Looks good Paul. matt

Superb, Paul. Great work!

Nice work good luck with approval

Take your time, and we're here for any questions you might have! I just finished my AP build a few months ago and couldn't be happier with it. I'll be applying for Centurion once I have my E-11 done, AP makes it easy.

Thanks for the frame tips, guys. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As many of you know, the 501st elections have come to a close. The FISD membership has spoken. Congratulations to our 2018 FISD Detachment Leader Paul (Daetrin)!!!!

Alright, thanks for the replies and help everyone. I can't wait to actually pick it up next weekend!

Starting to get happier results. After having a meltdown and panic attack my armor is on the way soon. Should be shipping in next 3-4 days I'd estimate. Lots of members are getting parts in and we are starting to see amazing results. I suppose it was worth the wait I knew it was gonna be awhile but I suppose I was more hopeful of timelines, seems like the yoke, back and ab parts have been a big challenge to lay. Hoping once these first halves (torso, chest, yoke, back, shoulders, butt, and cod) are shipped that rest should be smooth sailing. Still waiting on updates on the biceps, forearms, both legs all the way up (spats to the top) From what I have seen everything is beautiful, amazing and accurate. I'm looking forward to starting my rigging soon and posting in here more often. I'm also almost done with FO Tie Pilot so first order will be well represented from me.

@TheSwede : I guess I’m going to have to go frame shopping now...

FWIW, I used snaps where possible so the position of "stuff" doesn't change as compared to velcro. I do use velcro for my thigh garter straps, but (protip) I used a silver sharpie to add a reference line so they are same every time.

So, I have made som changes and submitted to my GML. Dropped biceps and fore arms a little to get a more reasonable distance from the hand guard. Tigthened the elastic between back and kidney. Reduced the thickness of the drop boxes and adjusted the position of the hip. Thanks for the help.

In this HOW TO I'll be illustrating how to modify and attach Wyatt's Imperial cloth gaskets to a FOTK under suit from stormtrooperundersuit.com. After receiving my gaskets from Wyatt my first impression was they appeared flat in thickness in comparison to the rubber gaskets. No disrespect to Wyatt's wife for making these excellent gaskets however, being I can never leave well enough alone I decided to add to the perfection and increase their thickness. Something that also frustrated me about most the gaskets out there was having to buckle the left and right arms together or velcro the gasket to the armor. I wanted something that would basically be part of the under suit itself so that I could step into my armor with less effort, like with a OT TK. To do this I found it easier to just sew the Imperial gaskets directly to the under suit. Items needed: Cloth Imperial Gaskets Under suit form stormtrooperundersuit.com 2" x 6" black Velcro (sew in type) 2 yards of 1/2" polyester filler 2 yards of fabric backing to seal in the filler Tools: Scissors Exacto or similar (split seams) Fabric pencil or similar Sewing machine Imperial gaskets Stormtrooperundersuit.com under suit Starting with the legs, measure, cut and sew filler and backing to underside of knee gaskets. Next, remove stitching from shoulder gaskets seems Sew in filler and backing. With the shoulder gaskets turned inside out, sew the seams together that you separated earlier. Before After. Notice any difference? Returning to the legs. Locate the center of the leg gaskets. Cut a 2" x 2-1/2" section of velcro. Note This only applies if you currently have velcro retaining your knee cap armor. If not you may want to switch or find a way to incorporate your mount into the gaskets. Place the velcro on the fabric and outline Sew in place At this point there's two ways you can go here, either sew the seams together creating a round gasket where the outer diameter is the same at the top and bottom, or you can taper it, like the shape of your leg. If you want to taper it, using a fabric tape ruler measure the upper and lower legs where the gaskets will reside when finished. Cut the fabric accordingly giving yourself 1/2" extra for the sewing seam. Another way to do this is to turn the gasket inside out, wrap it around your leg overlapping one side, using a fabric pencil mark the over lapped section. Don't forget to add 1/2" for seam. Sew the seam. After With the armor knee cap. With under suit With armor, test fit Ready to sew in place Install leg and shoulder gaskets. Mark under suit and gasket locations. Sew in place. Cut of shoulder gasket connecting straps as they are no longer needed After, front side After, back side Finished I'll try to get a few more pictures with better angles.

Hi all. Starting painting last night. Satin black (85) for mic tips and vocoder. Not completely finished these bits yet but first coat is looking okay, I think. ;-) More to follow shortly. :-)