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The Best Sterling Templates EVER!


ZeroRoom

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I have a real Sterling L2A3 SMG i purchased 2 years ago (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24492-new-e-11-in-process-from-sterling-smg/). I have started making 3D files from the parts I have. I am using Solidworks 2005. I will share the .STL files when I get them finished. These can be used with any 3D printer. I have a Printrbot 1401 3D printer i am using to print the parts. I will post photos of the parts as they are printed.

 

I started with the front nozzle. I have it scaled 1:1 for a 1.5" OD pipe and scaled up 10% to fit US PVC 1.25" ID pipe which is 1.660" OD.

 

I am working on a M38 scope 3D model. I have a real M38A2 scope I am using to get the dimensions.

 

I will start a new thread for the parts as I get them completed.

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wow, it will be a great opportunity for us to build our own instead purchasing overseas but not sure it will pass the customs or not.

I have bad experience with customs regarding the resin blaster kit and the barrel.

 

Can wait to try your work Norman. 

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I have a real Sterling L2A3 SMG i purchased 2 years ago (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24492-new-e-11-in-process-from-sterling-smg/). I have started making 3D files from the parts I have. I am using Solidworks 2005. I will share the .STL files when I get them finished. These can be used with any 3D printer. I have a Printrbot 1401 3D printer i am using to print the parts. I will post photos of the parts as they are printed.

 

I started with the front nozzle. I have it scaled 1:1 for a 1.5" OD pipe and scaled up 10% to fit US PVC 1.25" ID pipe which is 1.660" OD.

 

I am working on a M38 scope 3D model. I have a real M38A2 scope I am using to get the dimensions.

 

I will start a new thread for the parts as I get them completed.

 

 

Wow, this is something that is seriously needed here, can't wait to see your files!

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Hi all,

 

I have taken what I can of the files and have started a 3D model and have attached a jpg of the work so far.

The dimensions are not all to scale or to the plans that I could find on the forum as they only seem to be image versions and don't scale well.

Also from a CAD modelling point of view, the paper template is not really a good reference (except the barrel housing).

 

I have only managed to find pdf versions of the barrel housing and the original stock before mods.

Did the others get posted here, elsewhere or just never got completed?

 

Pete

post-24257-0-32531100-1436837568_thumb.jpg

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I've done some updates to the model and it now looks like this.

I've been working on the trigger section so this will hopefully be a fully working model of the Sterling SMG.

A few more updates and it should be finished.

Then I can convert it to an E-11

 

Pete

 

post-24257-0-52909100-1437617694_thumb.jpg

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On 9/16/2011 at 10:44 PM, ZeroRoom said:

@ Lichtbringer - thanks so much for taking the time to do that! That's very generous and extremely helpful.

@Seantrooper - I'll keep you posted and you keep me posted!

@davej - Tell me about it! I've been hunting this down for a few weeks now in an attempt to locate 38.1 outside diameter pipe and wow the measurement system is crazy. The best thing I've been able to do so far is carry my 38.1mm resin muzzle casting around with me and just physically try fitting it to whatever pipe is stock. So far no match though...

I have found a stockist of Aluminium round tube with an outside diameter of 38.1mm and wall thickness of 1.6mm. you can choose various lengths and wall thickness. here is the link for Ebay.  

 -----------

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020
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Thanks to everyone who has shared so much info here.  I am looking at building my first E-11 blaster and really appreciate the templates, pictures, etc.

 

I am a bit surprised by some having difficulty finding the proper size pipe.  Those of us in North America who are near a Home Depot should be able to get 1-1/4 inch EMT there: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Allied-Tube-Conduit-1-1-4-in-EMT-Conduit-101576/100400410

 

Also, regarding 3d printer files, have many of you tried these ones on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:868160

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This is a great resource for the scratch builder. Thanks for all the efforts put into this. I have already put it to use and just waiting on some 2mm aluminum to arrive to keep going. I have found all the info I can use with the exception of a template for the rear site. Now I did see it included in the very first set of templates however that set was referred to as inaccurate so you guys made the accurate set. Am I just missing it or does it not exist or is the rear site in the first set of templates accurate? Thanks in advance. Kevin

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On 10/13/2011 at 8:55 AM, ZeroRoom said:

That would be awesome Brian!

 

Well guys I did a little experiment and got some parts laser cut using the templates.

 

 

 

Check out all the rainbow coloured goodness! Hasbro would be proud! The reason for all these wacky colours is that I lecture one day a week at the university here and a friend of mine runs their laser cutter and let me use it for free. It just meant I had to rely on whatever scrap plastics were lying around in the thicknesses I needed, so the colours of the parts are different depending on the thickness of that part.

 

The laser cutter is great - it will run right off the PDF files of the templates and basically cuts sheets of plastic like an inkjet printer prints paper. Here it is in action:

 

 

 

The cutting laser looks pretty Star Wars doesn't it?

 

When it's done you just pop the parts out:

 

 

(it looks like wood in this photo but that's actually the protective paper on this piece of plastic)

 

Here's some of the parts that are already in black plastic. I had both styles of trigger done:

 

 

 

You can see here how well the no-functional trigger fits into a resin grip casting - no glue here just a perfect fit:

 

 

 

You can also see what an accuracy of fitting the laser cutter gives you in the parts you cut yourself. If the folding stock was open it would sit like this:

 

 

 

And look at the level of detail it will cut: (excuse dirty fingernails!)

 

 

 

rear sight assembly test:

 

 

 

What's even cooler is that the laser cutter doesn't just cut it engraves too! Which meant I was able to get that waffle texture on the relevant parts. It's a little hard to see in the photos but you can get a decent idea:

 

Selector Switch:

 

 

Stock Clip:

 

 

The laser cutter cuts very sharp edges so some pieces like the trigger will need sanding down to give that bevelled curve, but other than that it's good to go without you having to do much of anything! Plus you get an accuracy you'd be hard pressed to achieve by hand. I'm loving it!

how do you bend the plastic parts? like the laser cut folding stock? what is the material of the plastic used?

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Hey all!  First post here... just found this place.  Outstanding amount of information.  Love it.

 

Bending the plastic could be done with a heat gun & a makeshift press/brake.  You could clamp a straight edge (ie:plywood.. something sturdy): one at the bend line and another a few mm away (at least material thickness to allow bend), and then heat up the plastic in that exposed area.  When it gets pliable, bend it & let it cool.  I first thought aluminum would be good to clamp as straight edges, but AL is a great heatsink & may hinder heating the plastic a bit.  Wood takes a lot more heat than plastic before getting unworkable (ie: burnt), but would also retain more heat than AL which might help with the bend. 

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Hey all!  First post here... just found this place.  Outstanding amount of information.  Love it.

 

Bending the plastic could be done with a heat gun & a makeshift press/brake.  You could clamp a straight edge (ie:plywood.. something sturdy): one at the bend line and another a few mm away (at least material thickness to allow bend), and then heat up the plastic in that exposed area.  When it gets pliable, bend it & let it cool.  I first thought aluminum would be good to clamp as straight edges, but AL is a great heatsink & may hinder heating the plastic a bit.  Wood takes a lot more heat than plastic before getting unworkable (ie: burnt), but would also retain more heat than AL which might help with the bend. 

Thank you Joe for this great tip!

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I keep checking this thread when there's new activity in the section to see if Lucas has maybe resurfaced. I've been worried about him since he poofed. I know Australia's a deathtrap, but...

 

In other news, since I re-read the whole thread for nostalgia, I realized no one corrected a major sticking point. Everyone's having trouble finding pipe the right size... because y'all're looking for pipe. Pipe sizes go by nominal inner diameter, regardless of material or thickness. What you should be looking for is tube, which is measured by outer diameter. There's plenty of 1.5" tubing out there in a variety of materials and wall thicknesses.

 

So get back out there and keep building. :D

Edited by Peregrinus
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4 hours ago, Peregrinus said:

I keep checking this thread when there's new activity in the section to see if Lucas has maybe resurfaced. I've been worried about him since he poofed. I know Australia's a deathtrap, but...

I managed to track him down once as he lives locally, was going to meet up, then changed to he would post me what he had, then never heard from him again and this is going back about 4 years, I’d say we won’t see him back now.

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Hello everyone, random visitor here, loving th work you are doing, have done. I used one of these way back in the late 70s as a cadet in West Germany, and early 80s.

I was only 14 the first time and it was great fun, had to do the classroom bit first of course as all military training requires competence in the basic handling before you get on the the range for live firing.

Had a great time at an agricultural  show here in the UK where a couple of squaddies were manning a display with one of these chained to a table, I just happened to mention I could strip and rebuild it almost blindfolded, ( we had to learn how to do it in the dark as well!) They overheard me and didn't beleive a freckle faced kid in school uniform could, so they bet me £5 and I proved I could, easiest fiver I ever earned!

Anyway, I am interested in building one of these as a display model and have been trying to find the files to download and print A4 for 38.1 mm tube, all the ones I see aren't usable as is and I really want to do this right. Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

Thanks for such a fantastic project, you have done great work!

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  • 1 year later...
Em 09/06/2011 às 21:18, ZeroRoom disse:

Sim, de fato Vern - Mark incluiu ambas as medições e elas foram levadas em consideração.

 

Então... o momento que todos aguardam - o primeiro modelo ajustado do tubo receptor de 38,1 mm.

 

Estas são as mudanças com base nas medições fornecidas por Mark e outros tópicos de pesquisa aqui no FISD:

 

 

Orifícios de ventilação espaçados de forma correta e uniforme

corrigir da mira traseira para guia de tamanho de posicionamento

Tamanho e posicionamento do clipe de atualizados

Distrito do Slot de Armação Corrigido

A porta do ejetor foi alterada

Colocação da porta ejetora corrigida

Colocação e tamanho da montagem traseira do estoque dobrável corrigidos

Tamanho e posicionamento do guia de posicionamento do alojamento Mag corrigido

Tamanho e posicionamento da mira frontal corrigido

 

Este é um jpg de visualização do resultado:

 

1RPOyt2.png

 

No interesse de um trabalho melhor, também anexo o arquivo PDF na parte inferior deste post para que as pessoas possam baixá-lo e verificar as coisas. Salvei-o para que seja legível um PDF para que seja legível e mantenha todos e mantenha sua escala adequada, mas salvei com "Preservar recursos de edição" intacto, alterar-o-o-ocultar um arquivo de 'reservacó aberto' que qualquer pessoa possa editar ou corrigir, se necessário. Se você editá-lo, garante-se de postá-lo volta aqui para os nossos benefícios e detalhar suas mudanças!

 

Em seguida, postarei a versão para tubo de 40mm após ajustes.

 

PDF:

Tube38mm.pdf

 

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