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Found 9 results

  1. I just found the greatest set of Stirling SMG scratch build templates I've ever seen. They are leagues ahead of the BBC ones and produce an exact 1:1 scale replica. Best of all they don't just rely on you to print the sheets out correctly, they include all the measurements taken from a real Sterling right down to the length and diameter of the cocking handle, as you can see in these preview shots: These things are so detailed, they also include the full interior parts and you can actually build a functioning Airsoft gun from them if you are so inclined. I purchased them from an Airsoft replica site, but since $8 (while cheap) is a bit of a rip to have a PDF file emailed to you, what's a fella to do except post them up here for all my TK brothers to download for free. Attached here: SterlingSMGPlansApr09.zip
  2. After having some of my blaster parts laser cut in acrylic I needed to jump on the strip heater to bend them into shape. It's a nifty device with an infinite variety of practical uses when manipulating plastic so I thought I'd share a quick "How To" for anyone unfamiliar with the magic of a strip heater. A strip heater is pretty much a long heating element (similar to the kind you would find in a toaster or electric home heater) that has an adjustable cover made of thick steel. This adjustable cover lets you expose just a "strip" (hence the name) of heat source at your desired width, which allows you heat specific sections of you plastic piece without affecting the rest of it. Unlike a heat gun or an oven you can heat very precise lines and very small areas individually, which allows for bends, sharp turns and shaping in only certain areas of the plastic. Think of taking a flat piece of any thermo plastic and bending it into an L shaped bracket for example. Of course, in my infinite wisdom it didn't occur to me to actually take a picture of the strip heater as I was working the parts, but basically they look like this: And work like this: It's an incredibly simple machine, and although it takes a little practice and care to get used to the plastic your working with, the heating times and the cooling times etc you can do some pretty nifty stuff very easily with this bad boy. So where do we start? First adjust your gap to the width that will suit the sharpness of the bend you are looking for. Obviously the wider the gap, the larger the area of plastic that will become flexible, so a small gap will make sharper turns, while a large gap will make larger softer curves. If necessary place some additional blockers to shorten the strip length wise as well, and place you piece of plastic on the bars, with the area you wish to bend directly above the exposed portion of the element. Here I am doing it with the flat cut out of the folding stock butt template: The length of heating time depends on the material and the thickness of that material - this 3mm acrylic took about 10 minutes to become fully pliable. You will know when it's ready as the plastic in that area stops being smooth and takes on a strange almost wavy appearance, as seen here: Don't worry - it's much easier to see in real life than it is in a photograph. At this point the plastic will take on the consistency of a stiff rubber. Remove the plastic from the heater and simply use your hands to bend the shape you want: The smaller the strip the more the plastic will naturally bend toward the intended crease. If you heat a wider area you must be careful to get the curve exactly where you want it. You have to work quite fast here as the plastic stops being flexible much faster than it seems to cool. (ie; it can still seem very hot to the touch long after it has lost it's flex and gone hard again) If you keep applying pressure too long it's likely you will crack the plastic. Much like working with a heat gun, It also helps to push a little further than your intended shape as there will be a little spring back. Once you've got the position right, hold it until the plastic has no more movement in it to ensure it stays where you want it. This is hard, as at this point the hot plastic will be burning your fingers, so don't wuss out here... The great thing is that once you've done one part, the strip heater will heat the next part while protecting the bit you just worked on from reheating and losing shape. Thus you can do one part at a time. This is my butt (oh ha ha - grow up <_< ) after heating and bending two sides: With a wider strip setting you can heat a bigger portion of plastic and bend softer curves like this: Of course this requires more holding and shaping with your fingers than a simple bend so you are really, really gonna burn your fingers doing this (if anyone says why didn't you wear gloves, it's because I'm really tough ) I also found that the smart thing to do was have a score line in your plastic where you want tight folds. It not only helps line up the piece on the strip heater, but it will bend more naturally where you want it to: (See the state of my hands? I repeat: your fingers will suffer and hate you - ignore them. They don't understand how cool it is to blend plastic to your will...) Now we understand the principle here's a quick series of photos showing it in action to make the arms for the folding stock: Rough test fit of the parts: You'll note the underside of the butt piece is a touch flatter than is accurate. I should have (and will soon) given that a slight curve by placing it underside down on a wider setting on the strip heater. All in all this a great piece of kit. It's much less strenuous than working with metal bending and using plastic allows for much more precision in shape. It would be ideal for making inner drop boxes too, or getting a better fit on your crotch tab. If you don't have access to a strip heater they are actually really quite easy to make (and let's face it: no workshop should be without one). They cost about $300-$500 but there's a great tutorial on how to build one for under $30 here: http://www.mp3car.com/fabrication/111936-how-to-build-a-heater-strip-to-bend-acrylic-for-30-bucks-or-less.html I hope this encourages other to give it a shot - if only because it's so much fun! Zero Over and out
  3. Well I finally got a moment off work over Christmas and had just enough days to get obsessively stuck in to a new E-11 build. I'm building this one totally from scratch with the exception of a grip casting and a mag casting I had lying around. The rest of the build is my laser cut plastic parts and some found items. All my reference and measurements come from the "Best Sterling Templates Ever" thread that can be found here. I have used the actual templates we built up and relied entirely on the measurements and reference photos so generously provided by the team of real Sterling owners who contributed to that thread - sskunky, Christian, Lichtbringer and DaveJ - so a huge thanks goes out to them for giving me a chance to do a scratch build with accurate specs and skip the BBC plans altogether. Another huge thanks goes to Andy PlayfulWolfCub who made some corrections to errors I made in the blueprints and sent me literally hundreds of reference pics of his Sterling for me to work from. For those of you wondering when these templates are going to go public, the answer is soon. This build has allowed me to correct a few small errors and as soon as I'm done adjusting the template booklet I'll post it for all to grab Well without further ado - onto the build. I didn't get as far along in the four days I worked on it as I would have liked but these things always take longer than anticipated don't they? Here's what I've done so far anyways... THE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY I started with the trigger assembly. I know this is unusual but I have a plan to create a functional trigger assembly that will allow the bolt to be cocked and fired when the trigger is pulled. As a result I needed to build the rest of the blaster around the trigger assembly to be sure that everything was slotting together correctly. First I drew up my plans for how I thought a working trigger assembly might be constructed. This is basically a modified version of the real Sterling trigger function, greatly simplified after the manner of a toy dart gun: Basically the trigger should push the bolt catch down far enough to release the bolt and have it slam forward: Now heads up here: I have no idea of this will work. It's purely theoretical and until the whole thing is assembled I won't know if it succeeds or not. If it doesn't it's no big loss, I'll just have a static prop. If it works however it will add some fun. I started out with all my appropriate cut parts: The laser cutter cuts very sharp straight edges so I had to use the sanding drum on my dremel to shape the front portion of the trigger with the correct rounded edge. You can see the shape in this pic better: I glued the inner workings onto the right hand face of the trigger assembly in order to install the parts and rubber bands: I made short video of the parts in action but I can't embed Mobile Me gallery videos for some reason so if you're really keen to see it, you'll have to click here: http://gallery.me.co...3/TriggerAction This is the finished "sandwich" of parts: I've only painted the parts of the trigger assembly that will end up exposed after final construction. This is simply because paint and glue don't play well together and I want to be gluing plastic to plastic, not plastic to paint, for durability. The next step was to prepare the grip mount, which is this bit here: You can see in this image from Christian that, whereas most parts of the Sterling were butt braised on, the grip mount was flange braised: So I needed to create the flange edge for my grip mount pieces. I needed to make sure that the angle at which the flanges spread fit the barrel casing perfectly so I came up with this system: I took the plastic grip mount pieces and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood and set them in the oven for ten minutes Then I wrapped my receiver tube in foil to protect it from any heat transfer And literally pressed the tube into the soft heated plastic until I got a flange flare I was happy with: Then I had to set about making a trigger guard. I happened to find a strip of copper hanging around my man cave that was the correct 1.6mm thickness. I transferred the trigger guard template flat onto the copper strip with a pencil: Once I was satisfied with the measurements I clamped the copper strip down and cut it to shape using a jewelry saw: Lather, rinse and repeat for the other end and we're ready to go. The tricky part was the bending. The copper is soft so bending it is easy enough, but getting the precise shape of the Sterling trigger took some concentration. Initially I printed the trigger guard shaping template and bent the strip while laying it against this shape on the paper, but ultimately the best way to do it was to bend it in position against the trigger assembly using reference photos and some tricky yoga positions. This trigger guard shape varies slightly from the real Sterling trigger guard in that I've removed the small curl at the top front. It does however insert properly into the trigger group like it should, but will be held with glue instead of a swiveling pin: All that was left now was to paint everything up. It may seem odd to paint the entire grip and trigger assembly up before it is attached to the barrel casing, but as this section layers black pieces on top of silver I needed to do it prior to assembly. Again I've taped up the pieces to prevent paint spray reaching the parts I want to glue: Painted the grip while I was at it just to maximize my fume inhalation opportunities: Here's a pic of my finished trigger assembly next to a photo Andy PlayfulWolfCub's sent me of his real trigger assembly: and here it is with the whole shebang assembled and the selector switch in place: You can see in this pic the great texture that the hammered black spray paint Seantrooper put me on to gives the parts. Very close to the wrinkle paint (sometimes incorrectly referred to as parkerizing) used on commercial Sterling L2A3's, and a pretty convincing metal simulation. The actual Hammered Black is gloss so it requires a satin overcoat to knock it back. THE SELECTOR SWITCH The selector switch was an easy part. Again I need to use the dremel to shape a curve into the base but then it was a simple assembly and paint job: I painted a layer of Krylon Crafters metallic on first and let it dry. Then I gave it a coat of the black satin and while it was still wet, I lightly whipped a piece of sandpaper over the switch to produce the weathering.
  4. Well guys I finally did it - I found a ready source (in fact several ready sources) of accurate pipe or tube for Sterling receiver tubes for E-11 builds! The whole problem seems to be that we've been looking for the wrong thing. We've all been using or shopping for PVC tube (possibly as a legacy of the BBC plans) which only comes in a 40mm OD. For those who don't want to use metal pipe, because (like me) they live in a country in which this could cause legal issues or because (like me) they have no metal working skills, having an accurate pipe but in plastic, is a god send. We should have been looking for polycarbonate tube or butyrate tube which comes in, not only a 1.5" (38.1mm) OD but also has the accurate wall thickness of 1/16". This means the outside diameter, inside diameter and wall thickness all match the original sterling receiver tube perfectly! No need for any more inaccurate 40mm pipe builds! Here is a link for the polycarbonate tube: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=27235&catid=841 And the butyrate tubes: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=35305&catid=704 And for anyone just looking for a quick order of a small amount willing to pay just a tiny bit more it's even available on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OMHJGW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=1278548962&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000OMHI0E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1D1CHZ8Z7TY4SBVWS6FB It's slightly tougher to drill or cut than PVC pipe but is also much tougher and crack resistant in the long run. It's also available at many other suppliers - just google it. With this info in hand there's really no reason why we should even need the 40mm templates anymore since it was just a default choice anyway. Having made the tube templates recently I can safely say that this tiny 1.9mm difference in OD does actually make a big difference in accuracy once you spread the receiver details out across the new circumference. So what are you waiting for? Get ordering!
  5. In the fall I cleaned out all three local Targets for the E-11's (each store only had one). On line they more than twice the price if you can fins them. Does anybody know of on line source or other chains stores that carry them? Thanks!
  6. So originally I had planned on doing ANH stunt like the majority of Troopers start with. I checked out thier blaster build threads and thought it would be fun to do the Hasbro conversion, so I bought a blaster off of the eBay, and ordered a Doopy kit. Well that was almost a month ago and in that time I have decided I wanted to go the less taken ESB route. I read up on all the differences in the ANH armor compared to the ESB. I bought different hand guards, made a my own holster, ordered the correct stickers for the helmet etc... Without ever really considering the difference in the blaster until today I recieved this box today and immediately jumped on the FISD forums with the intent of doing a quick build tonight. Then I realized that I was going to have to do some major mods to my blaster to be somewhat ESB accurate. So here we go with my first build of any sort on this forum. Removing the counter !!!!!!! This is what I am starting with. I had already cut off the barrel and scope pieces, as I had seen in every ANH conversion thread. To remove the counter I first used a Sharpie maker to draw an outline around the area I wanted to cut away. I then started scoring the lines with my exacto. After about 10 minutes of scoring the same spot over and over I started to get some penetration on the straight parts that needed to be cut away, but knew the exacto was not going to be usefull on the curved areas. I was also getting tired of the progress moving so slow, so I whipped out the dremel and bore a few holes through it hoping I could break the pieces off in smaller sections easier than the whole counter at once. Here is the first of the small sections removed. Now it is looking a little better. I am headed back to the shed now where will cut and sand the rough edges down and hopefully post some picture of the progress later tonight.
  7. The EIB component of the CRL for blasters says the D-Ring must be "mounted" to the end cap. Does this mean the moulded D-Ring on a resin end cap must be sanded down and replaced with a functional one?
  8. Of late I've been mulling over various ways to make the ever elusive accurate T-track and have come up with several different methods worth trying. I've decided to try them all and thought I'd share them here one by one as I go. So here's method number one - aluminum T-track that anyone can make at home with nothing but a book and a ruler! Now I'll pre-empt this by saying all my following experiments will be based on the assumption that the screen accurate dims for T-Track are as follows: Now, I don't claim any expert knowledge here or solid evidence. The dimensions and shape have come from research here and on the RPF and they are, to the best of my knowledge, correct but don't hold me to it - we know the T-Track is a slippery beast, and while I don't purport to have caught one this info comes from some pretty experienced fishermen... Start by getting a roll of aluminum flashing from your local hardware store: It comes in various thicknesses - I've chosen .3mm for the balance between ease of bending and strength. Cut of a strip to size. I suggest going a little longer than you'll need for the finished length. I worked at about 190mm long by 38mm wide. Next you will want to score your aluminum to make the various folds easier to manipulate and sharper in the finished job. After a lot of fiddling and paper patterning I made this diagram to show the distances between the score lines that will result in the correct finished shape: Use a ruler and a stanley blade to score your lines according to these measurements: This bit can be tricky and I had a lot of fails along the way. If you score too lightly the metal will not bend sharply or will bend in places other than the intended fold. If you score too heavily it will simply snap when you try to fold it. This was simply a matter of testing and practice. I ran the blade several times over each score and found that once the sliding started to feel "rough" I had about the correct amount. I also found that it helped a lot to graduate from heavy scoring in the inner most lines outwards to lighter scoring. This is because of the order in which we want the folds to be made, and it helps the metal go naturally in that order. Here is a diagram where black represents the heaviest scoring getting lighter: At this point my aluminum strip looked like this: Next, I measured and marked the exact centre of the strip: Grab an old hardcover book. The non spine edge has a nice approximation of the shape and size of the centre rail of the T-Track right down to the inverted U shape. In this case I'm using the same out of date diary I'm using as a cutting board: Using the centre marking as a guide I bent the aluminum over the edge of the book cover. Lining this up straight was a right PITA but if you get it wrong (and I did a few times) you end up with horribly lopsided T-Track: I simply pressed and pressed along the fold until I got it very flat. It should be almost so tight it's stuck to the book. I also found this process was made easier by holding a metal ruler on each side of the aluminum strip and clamping with pliers. Do not apply the pliers directly to the aluminum or your T-track will end up looking like Pruneface's head... Once that was done, I slid a ruler under the lip of the aluminum strip to keep it flat and bent it upwards. If the scoring is good the metal will naturally start to fold at the innermost score line: I did this on both sides and then removed the strip from the book cover. I found it helps to bend this first bend too far as it will naturally bend back down as you fold the other parts down: Then it was a matter of some simple origami to fold each section one by one to shape: When the score lines were good this was easy - when they were bad it was a nightmare... I lost a few efforts at this point. However once I got the hang of it I was on to mass production! Once shaped the track is surprisingly strong. Remember - the arch is one of the strongest shapes in engineering! The good thing about using the aluminum is that with some care and strength you can use pliers to get a nice bend on the end that slips into the vent holes without heating it: Sure - the ends are messy but they won't be visible so it doesn't matter a bit. I'm pretty happy with the results, but this is a method that requires care and the sharp aluminum edges did my manicure no favors. It's definitely worth trying but it won't stop me continuing to experiment with other methods. So stay tuned for method number two - here's a sneak preview:
  9. I was wondering if anyone who has experence in scratch building an E-11 with the temps and sheet metal, happened to be living in the orange county area of NY and willing to assist me in building one. Thanks you can pm me
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