CommanderZel

Aaaaaaaaand that's the picture I originally meant. Thanks!

I saw a picture of the Death Trooper sidearm a while ago, and I'm fairly certain that it's pretty much just an SE-14R, but I'd have to look again and I didn't save the photo. If I come across it again I'll post it here. EDIT: Not the picture I meant, but here's a good screencap showing what seems (to me) to be an SE-14R:

That's true! I just don't have anywhere to cut the pipe. I could do it with a vice and a table, but unfortunately I currently have neither of those things.

Well my only qualm about it was that I'm personally not well-equipped to cut any kind of pipe, but I know where I can get access to the hardware to do that. So I'll just make arrangements and get that done on a later date. Thank you both very much! I've got to get a build thread started so I can stop just posting on your build, Tony

Oh, good call. Thanks!

Hey Tony, sorry if this has been covered: You're right about the TD tube length being a little long, and after fitment (with the caps) mine is about 7.75". The CRL calls for "approximately 7.5," so should I try to remove the excess pipe or do you think I'll be fine submitting with a TD that's a little on the long side?

Okay, I've discovered the reason that I didn't think to do that originally: My d-ring doesn't have a space, so I can't bend it to pt it through a hole. Would the suggestion be to just buy a different d-ring? Edit: It might be helpful of me to include the fact that I have a trooperbay d-ring, which is completely closed.

I don't know why that wouldn't work! Thanks!

Hey everyone, I have a hyperfirm blaster and I have a D-ring, but I have no idea how to install it. I've heard that I should just drill out a hole in the D-ring holder, but then I don't know how to actually get the D-ring in. My thought was to use a craft knife to cut along the end cap wall down to the drilled hole to put the D-ring in, but I don't want to do something disastrous. Any tips?

Oh, that sounds pretty simple. Thanks!

Thanks, I knew it wasn't the worst thing that could have happened, but I do think I'll try it over again just to clean things up. Thanks for the encouragement! Interestingly enough, I actually had the pieces taped together on the back of the connection running lengthwise up the seam to help with aligning the two pieces since I'm doing this on my own. This situation was kind of the culmination of several issues I had with the right forearm. I think this time I'll try the painters tape across the top of the pieces. Just wondering, if I do take it apart (I think I probably will) what's the best way to take it apart? I know how to clean off the excess glue, but I'm not clear on total glue removal. And thank you both for your speedy and helpful replies!

Hey Tony, I've had a bit of a mess with the outside glue on the right forearm. While I was gluing it together, it appears that it all slipped a bit and the result was a gap between the two pieces and a visible slide of the cover strip. I have pictures. This is a basic view of the whole situation: This is a picture of the amount the cover strip slid off from where it was supposed to be: This is more of what the first picture is trying to show: In addition to these, I have measurements. The gap between the two pieces is about 2/5 cm and the distance the cover strip slid is about 1/2 cm. My feeling is that I should take this connection apart and redo it, but what do you think?

That's what I thought, I just wanted to make sure. Yeah, I'm definitely going to be taking my time. I'd rather go slowly than make mistakes!

Thanks! I've been working on it whenever I can, but it's been slow going because I've been so busy with work and school (and because I'm nervous for my first build). Thanks for the info, though!

I have removed the wrist return edge to what I believe to be centurion standards. I'm pretty sure the wrist is fine at this point. I just don't want to take too much off the elbow and end up ruining my chances for centurion. Also, should I assemble and glue the piece before I remove the return edge I need to remove from the top or should I do that before assembly?

Hey Tony, I've got a few questions about my left forearm piece. I'm a rock climber, so my forearms are a little disproportionately thick, and I've found that after prepping the forearm for assembly the top opening (the elbow) has too much return edge and is touching my forearm in three places. I've got pictures: This is where the piece touches my forearm on the two sides (taken focusing on the inside of the arm) This is where the piece touches in the same places (taken focusing on the outside of the arm) And this is where the piece touches my elbow So really my question is this: how much return edge can I reasonably remove and maintain the ability to make centurion? In addition to that, are there any other problems you can see with this piece so far? Thanks!

It looks to me like these E-11s(?) have a new attachment on the right side of the barrel. Possibly a laser pointer or something? I'd grab a couple of screenshots for better support, but I'm at work.

Right, that makes sense. I've also heard of people putting lenses in the scope. Is that necessary or even recommended? How would one go about doing that?

Hey all, I just received my B-Grade Hyperfirm ANH E-11 from Slavefive (and it is BEAUTIFUL), and I'm just not sure if there's anything I need to do to get it up to legion standards. It looks stunning from my first few glances, but I'm afraid I'm not knowledgeable enough in terms of E-11s to tell if there's anything I need to do. Are there any general recommendations?

Glad I could help! If you ever want those TK pep files in the future, feel free to PM me for them!

I'm only operating on advice given to me in my first ever post on these boards about a year ago by more veteran members. I think a pep build could be cheaper if you're a pep master and you're able to perform a build with no waste and as few resources as possible, but in general it seems to be cheaper to go with a kit. And even taller troopers exist! I believe it's Troopermaster that makes the best armor for larger troopers, but it might be Authentic Props (AP). I'm pretty small, so I haven't done much research into that kind of thing. For a helmet, though, with a kit from Affordable Trooper Armor (ATA), you can expect to pay $130 plus shipping and not including the tools you'll need for the build. ATA is about as cheap as it gets. For an isolated piece like a helmet rather than a full suit, it might be cheaper to go with the pep. I have no idea. I can link you to my first post, where people talked to me about the pep build idea. I haven't given it much thought since then.

Hey Kevin, we don't actually generally suggest the use of Pepakura for armor builds if you're trying to join the 501st. The armor often ends up being heavy, expensive, uncomfortable, and inaccurate. When I first got onto the FISD, I was planning on doing a pep build, and I was quickly warned away from it. If you still want to go through with it, I know where to find TK pep files. If you'd rather go a more tried and true route, I'd suggest looking at this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/to get an idea of where the 501st gets most of its TK armors. Good luck!

To be fair, I think he had help from an existing 501st member! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Hey, has anybody asked ANOVOS about replacement parts? None of mine are broken, but I'm thinking about trying to build a second belt assembly for stunt and keeping their hero assembly intact as a secondary belt. I feel like the rogue one TKs could end up featuring something like the ANOVOS belt assembly and if I make a separate stunt assembly then I'll have both on hand to switch out at will. If nobody's asked I'm willing to, just thought I'd check here first. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Let's see some pics!