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Congrats on finally making EIB! GO ESB!

Awsome! one more EIB for California

congrats! Nice AP build

Great job! Congrats, glad to see you finally applied for EIB. Well done trooper

Under Armor two piece, plan on getting a cold weather set. Voted!

Go ESB! Congratulations on making EIB after all the hard work.

Check off another EIB for California! Congrats!

Congrats on finally making EIB!

Great job trooper! Very nice armor.

Congrats! Nice job!

Just received mine in the mail today. Thank you for the wonderful book, I am really going to enjoy reading it! Thank again Christaan

I followed TK4510's move along tutorial for my build. If you follow that, you will be successful. I think it helps to leave more material at the bottom sides of the cap n back. One thing that will help with trimming will be wether you go for a high or low brow. I would suggest clamping the face to the cap through the eyes and see how the sides line up, then trim as needed. I have pics in my build thread that show where I trimmed the cap. I also trimmed the sides of the face a bit to remove the ridge. I removed the top part of the face, as well. I would suggest you leave excess material on the ears if you want a nice tight fit. My 2 credits!

I had my armor painted with autobody paint. My painter used an adhesion promoter called bulldog and then painted with a gloss white. You will need to wet sand all parts and be careful about what you use to dry them. Oils from your skin and other sources can cause a bad finish, the worse case is that you have to re-sand and repaint. There are a lot of good threads dealing with painting your armor and bucket, I advise you to review them.

This looks like contamination, but it could be a number of things. You will need to wet sand the entire piece and repaint it. 2000 grit should work and allow you to end up with a nice finish. You want at least 3 coats of paint, this allows you to wet sand and/or polish out future scratches from trooping. My 2 credits, hope it helps.

I would agree that buying the blaster and the mod kit is the way to go. I think you will find greater satisfaction knowing you did it. My total build price for mine was around $70, but I already owned the tools that i used( Dremel, sand paper,bondo etc..) The items I purchased blaster,doopy doos kit, T-track, paint and some oven bake craft clay( for my greeblies and sites ).

Go ESB!!!!!

ATA can be easily done with your budget. Your accessories will be $250-$300 easy.

Great job! It is such a cool feeling when it all finally comes together. I hope to someday own a TM!

Your ATA kit should have the strip sizes listed on one of the two flat sheets that came in the box. Trimming to fit will depend on your build. Make the front but joints the width of the strip and adjust the back to your build. I suggest you review all of the ATA build threads, there you will learn what to avoid and tricks to succeed. The arms are 5/8", the legs 7/8" and calf backs 1" for the strips. This is also the ridge width, if your thin you can make both side the same and add foam after assembly so your armor is not loose. I made all my strips correct and left more material on the back sides that butt together. It is nice to see another ATA build in the works!

Hey Guys, Just thought I would share what my painter used on my armor to make sure the paint adhered well. It's called Bulldog and can be found at most auto parts stores, it works great on many materials. Is designed to work on flexible materials, as well as rigid. Here is a pic of the can I believe this works as a primer, it is used a lot by auto body painters on parts that are difficult to get the paint to hold.

My ESB hasbro mod thread is on page 2 of the blasters section. I used a doopy-doos kit and made my own greeblies. I was attemting to mimic a screen cast blaster. There are a lot of good hasbro blaster mods, you just need to scroll thru the pages in the blaster section and click on the various hasbro mods.

Looking good! Great to see you finally finished. The only thing that I know of is that you have not requested 501st status, I could be wrong but I think you want to do this ASAP! Good luck with your EIB!

you definately do not want to run the strip all the way down, if you want it to look right. Here are a couple of pics of my thigh. Here is the finished look with strip stopping at the ridge. Note the seem and how I brought the two parts together. Here is an inside view, I epoxied a strip of scrap to hold this area together. I can only suggest you do something like this, ultimately it is your call! I hope the pictures help you, if you need any more pics let me know. You can review my build thread for photos, as well.( not tying to promote my thread, just lend a helping hand- everyone is different and I am not saying mine is the best or the right way.)

I used a regular Bic lighter to heat this area and then pliers to form them to the same level. I used some squadron putty on my seems, then sanded down to were the seem was still visible. I wanted visible seems to come thru the paint job, but not open gaps. I used a lighter to soften and bend parts for my blaster and some ares of my armor, It works great. I have read too many horror stories about heat guns and armor. The key is to not actually touch the flame to the armor just hold it under the area you want to soften and wait a little while, then do what you need to in terms of shaping. You can test on your trimmed off excess. Hope this helps

My armor is ATA. The name speaks for itself Affordable Trooper Armor! It is screen accurate quality for an amazingly low cost.