CableGuy

Hi Eric, You’re correct about the check list and we will hopefully have that updated soon, however, the sniper knee alignment and thigh ammo pack fixings are requirements at L2 so we need to clearly see those areas for the review. Below are excerpts from the CRL; Level two certification (if applicable): •Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin Level two certification (if applicable): •Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. •The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. No pop rivets allowed. Hope that helps a little. :-)

Hi Lou, Looking good, Trooper. Could we kindly request images of your sniper knee (left, front, right) and your thigh ammo pack (fixings inside and out). Thanks in advance. Dan

Good shout.

Look at those lovely brows. ;-)

Welcome, trooper :-)

Hi Jennifer, Great job. One of the team will be with you shortly. In the meantime, could we please request a couple more photos for your application; Lens colour (with light inside helmet if required) Close up of thermal detonator screws Front, left and right photos of sniper knee plate Thigh ammo pack fixings (inside and out) Thanks in advance Dan

Hi Stephen Here’s a nice screen used example. Edited - got your name wrong - my apologies. :-)

No worries, chief. As I said, it was only a suggestion. :-)

Nice work. :-) If you want to go a little more into it, just be aware that the cocking handle is currently backwards and that the rear sight could sit a little closer to the end cap. As per the FISD blaster reference, for the rear sight “leave a little gap (about 2mm) to the raised end of the receiver tube (locking notch band”. Love those Doopy kits. Keep yo the good work. :-)

Hi Shaun, Thanks for the update. Let me know when you have the additional pics (no rush) and we’ll ‘move along’ with your application. [emoji1] Best wishes Dan

Hi Shaun, Welcome to the FISD and thanks for your application. To help us get started, could we ask for a few more details and photos; At the top of your post, Armor Maker = Helmet Maker = Blaster Type = Also, could we please have the following pictures; Lens colour (using a light inside the helmet if required) Close up of side details (ab/kidney area) Thigh ammo fixings (inside and out) Close up of thermal detonator screws Thanks in advance Dan

Hi Santiago, and thank you for your EI submission! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. On behalf myself and the entire D.O. staff, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Let's start from the top and work our way down. Overall, your lid is very well presented. For that extra pinch of ANH magic, we have suggested a few improvements. Firstly, your brow appears a little wonky in a couple of pictures, and in the below picture it dips down in the middle. As this is a stunt build, the majority of screen used stunt troopers had a clearly visible gap between the top of the eyes and the brow. Raising this, and possible securing it in place to stop it moving, would be advisable. Also highlighted here are the corners of your frown paint and the vocoder. As per the below reference photos, many Stunt TKs had the frown painted beyond the un-drilled 5th tooth/hole. Also, the 2nd and 6th bars of the vocoder usually extend a little higher. Reference; As below, it looks like your shoulder bridges are currently a little thick. Quite a bit of that excess could come off for a cleaner appearance. Reference; Moving down a little further, your shoulder bells are currently twisted very far round towards the back. These should be rotated are far forward as possible to get a neater look. Also highlighted here is the alignment of your limbs. With some adjustment to your strapping, you should be able to line up the cover strips a lot closer on the area and legs. Reference As below, your forearms are twisted quite a long way round. As per the reference photo of Luke below, the detailing on the side should run right the way from the top of the shoulder bells, through the biceps and right down the forearm. Reference; It looks like you might have quite a lot of excess plastic around the marked part of the chest armour. You could consider trimming this down a little. (We'll cover the drop boxes a little further down the review). Chest reference; Below, we've highlighted the alignment of arms, as we covered previously from the front photo.. In this picture, your belt appears to have dropped on the left hand side. This could be the weight of the holster and it probably an easy adjustment. As per the red markings on the photo below, the cover strips on the calves should not extend past the ridge. Reference; Thank you for upgrading the thermal detonator screws and moving the clips close to the end caps. Those are much better. Whilst it might not be possible with the existing claims/brackets, the screws would ideally be nearer to the ends of the clips. Moving on to your blaster, there are quite a few areas that are a little over-weathered. All of the areas marked below were made from plastic parts on the originals blasters - as such, they would not have the metallic weathering. We would suggest that these are painted black. t-track reference; Also, your Hengstler counter is quite a long way back. Moving this forward an inch or so would give a better appearance. Centurion Suggestions: In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here.Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. For level 3, "Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor." Your right hand side is looking great, and the left is only a small gap. A slight adjustment to your strapping might bring that in a little. Also, drop boxes must align with the outer part of the plastic ammo belt. We can see that your drop boxes have gone a little rogue. Those drop boxes would need to line up for L3. Reference: Ref - ab to kidney gap Well, that's it for now. Welcome to Expert Infantry - congratulations, Trooper. Oh, and one more thing - can we please request an 'action shot' (you kitted up holding your blaster) for our records? Many thanks...

Well done, trooper. :-)

Hi Lee, As per the picture provided by@theSwede, the chin strap is just elastic. Depending on how you fit the foam at the top, you might not need a strap. Regarding the foam, unless you’re going for a replica build, just roughly cut the shape. You can then adjust it in the helmet to the nicest fit for you. :-) Personally, I didn’t get on with the foam star so used tactical pads instead. Fits like a dream and no strap required. Personal preference, however. Best wishes Dan

Looks good to me. If it’s good enough for these fellas.... ;-)

Congrats, trooper. :-)

Whoop!! Ross’ videos are superb. You’ll do fine with those. (Don’t forget to listen out for the snoring dog [emoji23])

Aside from my head, I have my self-built fan system, tactical padding and an EVA foam lining.

Nice work. Progressing nicely. :-) Coverstrip corners can vary from build to build, however, here’s some lovely reference pics if you wanted to angle those corners a little. Shins look great, btw. :-) Keep up the good work.

You rang, Sir. ;-) Lovely job on the traps, tears and vocoder so far, Lorelei! For the tube stripes, I’d just suggest the ‘approximately a pencil width from the cheek’ rule. This is for the actual stripes themselves, not just the edge of the template (if you’re using a template). If you’re using a template such as the “Dave-M” template, see the below for the correct orientation. The front few stripes should lean towards the frown. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/ Keep up the amazing work. :-)

Bump

Hi Josh, I’ve posted in your build thread. :-) Dan

Hi Josh, I saw your other post about your lid. I think it might be that the face is not angled down enough. This is happening in lots of builds at the moment, leading to little or no gap between the eyes and the brow. Here’s a nice screen used example. Following the green line from the back cap leads nicely to a parallel line above the eye sockets. As you’ll see, it looks like yours could possibly drop by about a centimetre or so. If you imagine the ear as a pivot point, just angle the face down a little. This will give a nicer gap above the eyes and help reduce that face/back cap gap. Yours isn’t far of so just a little adjustment and you’ll be there. :-)

Welcome aboard, Trooper. :-)

Hi Corey, and thank you for your EI submission! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. On behalf myself and the entire D.O. staff, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Firstly, thank you for swapping out those Hovi-Tips - the new ones look much better! Moving on to the rest of your armour, let's start from the top and work our way down. Overall, your helmet looks really nicely put together. There are some areas which could be improved, which we will run through below. At present, your ears seems to have quite a lot of extra material to them. If you're up for the challenge, you could consider trimming them down to achieve a slightly neater look. Also, your grey tears below the eyes might be a little on the small side. You could consider extending the paint to fill those tears a little more. Reference As below, if you were to consider trimming down the ears a little, you could consider leaning the left ear forward a little to match your right ear. This would help to cover the excess of the face plate that is showing from under the ear. It will also bring the angle of the ear a little closer to some of the screen used examples. Suggested trim lines for the ears. Reference; Suggested trim lines. Reference Round to the front, as it stands your frown paint looks like it could be extended a little on the teeth. There is quite a bit of white on show above and below the grey paint. Whilst this was the case on a few screen used examples, you could consider filling it out a little, like the example below. We would also suggest evening out the vocoder paint by matching the right hand side to the left. NB, as a side note, you might see a slight difference in the tube stripes against the reference photo. This is a very common occurrence when the tube stripe templates are applied to the opposite sides. If you were looking to go all out at some point with your armour, you could consider re-doing them so that the front few stripes lean towards the frown. Moving down to your limbs, you currently have quite large gaps at the elbow. Although it's hard to tell from these pictures, it looks like your biceps and forearms might be a little on the big side, too. For a sleeker look, you could consider trimming down the circumference of the biceps and forearms (leaving about a fingers width around the arms), tapering the forearms towards the wrist, and lowering the biceps closer to the forearms. Reducing the girth of the biceps might also help to bring the shoulder bells closer to your chest armour. Also marked in this picture is the excess material above the ammo packs on the plastic belt. There is currently at least a few millimetres that could be trimmed off. Belt reference; It might also be worth taking another look at your thigh ammo pack. This is currently leaning quite significantly and is possibly mounted too far round to the left side (when viewed from the front. Various screen references show that the third of the five ammo packs is usually mounted a little off centre but to the right of the coverstrip (again, when viewed from the front). Here’s an example of what I mean. This is could be down to the specifics of the armour and the ammo pack, or, it could simply be mounted to far around. We’d be happy to make suggestions if you wanted to provide additional angles of photos after your review. Round the back, it looks like your kidney has slipped down under the butt plate. This has possibly lead to the slight gap between the back plate and the kidney. The butt and kidney should sit nicely against each other rather than overlap. Adjusting your strapping should help to keep the kidney close to the back plate and stop the overlap of the butt. We've also highlighted your rear cover strip on your right thigh. Compared with the left one, it appears to be a little angled rather than straight up and down. Depending on the cut lines underneath, this could be a simple case of removing and reapplying the cover strip. Reference: Thighs This shot also shows the butt plate overlapping the kidney. Adjusting the strapping should remedy this. Reference: butt plate As below, your ab plates and buttons could so with a little TLC. The smaller of the button plates could do with some additional trimming to lose all of the return edge and flashing. As per the reference photo, this should be quite flat with square edges. If you wanted to, you could also consider reducing the size of the painted buttons themselves. A couple things come to mind regarding your TD. As you'll see below, we've highlighted the size of the detail plate on top of the main tube, but also potentially the length of the complete TD. They are usually around 190.5cm in length. It might be just the photo, however, yours looks like it might be a little long or a smaller diameter than the screen used versions. To help with the overall look, you could consider reducing the length of the details plate on top, roughly where the red lines are marked below. On to your blaster, the weathering is a little strong in places. (I know that this is a pre-finished unit so this is no reflection on your build). Areas that might be worth looking at would be to tone down the brass effect on the scope, and also considering repainting the handle - the original handles were made of plastic so would not have the weathering effect that yours currently has. Blaster handle/grip ref: Centurion Suggestions: In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos are requested that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. If you wanted to move up to Centurion, there are a few areas that would need to be addressed, as per the L3 requirements of the CRL. These would include, but are not exclusive to, the below; Looking closer at your belt, the holster attachments are a little on the high side. As per the reference photo, these were traditionally a little lower on the screen used suits. As we touched on before in a previous photo, there is quite a bit of excess material above and below the the ammo boxes on the plastic belt. Also, the corners are a little over cut at this stage. As per the below mark up, you could consider trimming down the excess and adjusting the corners. This would also allow you to get the correct drop box alignment. CRL: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Belt and holster references; Holster attachment; Additional areas for L3 include; Side gaps (Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor) Side rivets (need to be present and close in appearance to screen used) Han Snap (must be present and correctly positioned) Rubber/flexible hand guards Elastic for shoulder bridges Also, some of the above suggestions, like some of the armour alignment issues, would likely come up again at L3 as Centurion is all about the finer details. Congratulations once more on achieving your EIB. We hope to see you back for L3 in the future.