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HSM76

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About HSM76

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany

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  • Name
    Sven
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  1. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    Those are the measurements I got from RS: But keep in mind , if you are very broad in the shoulders, these might be to small. Okay, if you are very broad in the shoulders, the RS bells are also to narrow.
  2. It's not split but double cap rivets *smartass mode*
  3. As addition to Freddy: 4. Those are for the bizeps to forearm connection. 5. I think those were intended for the ABS handguards to work as loops. Did not use them. 7. Yes, that's the side connection. 8. With the split rivet in the bag, that has to be the crotch strap. Connecting the an plate to the button at the bottom. 9. Correct, this is for the shoulder bell, the snap for the top, one of the other pieces (the longer one I think) for the loop around the bizeps, and one for an optional connection of shoulder to bizeps. 11. Spares I would say 13. I think they are intended for the ammo packs, but I used Chicago screws for the belt and single cap rivets for the ammo pack on the knee.
  4. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    Look much better would have been the goal...
  5. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    Will the placement of the back cover strips be a problem with Centurion status?
  6. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    Thank you Paul for the Information! When cutting the back of the thighs I kept the cut off on both sides equal, that was the mistake I made here. I should have left the thigh backs until the very end of the build, or at least until the Torso would have been done. Maybe I try to order new thighs from RS at some point in the future and redo them.
  7. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    The cover strips are there, you have to look at the pictures in a zoomed version. I worked at some of the points this evening. I reworked the forearm and the shoulder and tried to find out how to set the thigh straps. Here are some pictures of the thigh tests, I think now the elastics might be right: As I hoped, the drop boxes seem to be right, it is only a thing in conjunction with the thigh placement. Matt, Paul, here you can see that I have cover strips on the back of the thighs they are just a little shy in pictures and try to hide. The top of the thigh is the thing I am not quite sure how to cut like this?: (Even better view on the cover strips) Excuse the crappy lines, but the mobile phone is not so precise for drawing lines. But I think this is what @troopermaster meant, is it not?
  8. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    Thanks Matt. Yep, as I wrote above, this is cooling system Is on the list. The forearms should be the same circumferance but I will look into it, thank you. The thighs were the main reason for the pictures and there is still some work to be done I know that.
  9. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    Concerning the hight of the biceps I just checked some of the RS Centurion applications, of people roughly my hight, it looks the same as with my armour. (Like here: ) @CTID: while looking through the RS Centurion application I saw, that the belt seems the same as with them. I think, the left Dropbox was pushed into a strange position by the thigh. But I will look into it tonight.
  10. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    @CTID: I'll look into the belt issue, thanks Marc. This will get interesting... I was using the marks made by RS, seems those were a bit off @Frank75139: I kept the gap between forearm and bicep as on orientation to have this as narrow as possible, if I pull up the biceps either I get to much gap to the forearm or to much gap to the gloves. The cooling system is made by CTID, named Troopacoola. I have the digital veriable speed version where you can set the speed of the fans in certain levels.
  11. Tino is right, wrinkle paint is not the right for the scope. They have a war time finish and are a rather rough cast, but the paint is simple. I think it depends on what you want. Here are two pictures of an a M40 1943 and an M38 1942 it is between flat and semigloss, but I think it might have been more glossy at some point, when they where new.
  12. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    We had some problems with the photos, first of all I forgot the gloves, then we got to make the photos late yesterday and finally the SD Card of the camera was a bit uncooperative, when we finally got the pictures on the PC it was to late for another set, with corrections. But it was the first full suit up and I noticed a few things: - I have to make sure where the belt is sitting. Even so I lengthened the loops, the thighs ended up in the same height as last time. - the right shoulder bell will ride out some bit if I raise the arms. See portrait picture, where I think it is okay. - I have to look into the Helmet padding, as the bucket is a bit off center. - the cooling system is visible from the back, advertising for @CTID (And last, I have to give my Girlfriend a list of things she has to check ) Any more things you guys noticed
  13. HSM76

    ANH Stunt TK in Germany

    Marc: that's the plan! Aaron: its the belt with suspenders. But everything is okay I just closed the loops with safety pins as a first test, at a point where I thought it might be right. I will see the shut after I have worked out the correct fit.
  14. HSM76

    Newbie Dave's Anovos build

    No sweat if you use E6000, you can get the off. There should be no problem. Pull the carefully off and you are fine.
  15. HSM76

    E11 Blaster upgrade with BlastFX

    Just a small update right now. I will use an acrylic tube to replace the barrel and hold the LED strip of the BlastFX as well as the muzzle LED. But I had some problems with it holding in the front. This coupled with the missing retainers of the muzzle screws made me think to build a front for the new "barrel". Thus I am rebuilding the front part. Here is a picture of the two parts in rough form. The white is 4 sheets of 1mm ABS glued together, the clear part is the cap of a small plastic bottle, which fortunately nearly had the size and form of the front of the original barrel. It needs a bit more work but here is a first picture of the two parts:
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