CableGuy

Hmmm. Drool.....[emoji1] Those racks are equally fitting to the wonderful blasters and armour that they share company with. Excellent job, as always. :-)

Hi Phil, Do you have anymore pictures from different angles? Also, if you use the “direct” links from Imgur, your photos will show directly in the thread, rather than clicking and following the link to Imgur. :-)

Good luck on the 8th Feb. I’m sure you’ll have a great time, in kit or out. :-) Your blaster’s looking really nice. I also watched that video before painting mine and there are some good ideas in there. Just a couple of small things for your consideration. The t-tracks on the screen used E-11s were plastic, so would not have the metal effect weathering. (Same goes for the grip and the rear half of the Hengstler, neither of which you’ve weathered, by the looks of it). Also, although many hengstler counters had fallen off during filming (as, rumour has it, they were simply hot glued on), some of the E-11 reference material indicates that the hengstler counted would sit a little higher than you have yours. Following the FISD E-11 Blaster reference, the top of the Hengstler counter would line up approximately with the centre line of the scope. As below; Obviously, I’m not saying that you should make these changes, just some details I’ve picked up on over time. :-) Keep up the great work. Dan

Hi Santiago, When you’re ready with your updated thermal detonator screws, could you also post up clear pictures showing your thigh ammo pack fixings, inside and out, please. Thank you, Trooper.

They look great! Nice work. Be with you you very soon.

Great stuff. :-)

Hi Simes, No harm in going the DIY route with your boots - I did the same. However, personally, it took me two orders of white boot dye to get mine white enough, plus the many hours of coat after coat. My boots were also from amazon and around £20-£25. The boot dye was around £10 per go. So, ended up about £45. For about £20 more, RS Propmasters do some beautiful boots that are worth checking out. (Build link in my signature if you wanted to check it out). Just a thought. :-)

Hi Santiago, Thank you for your application. To allow us to proceed, we would kindly ask that the thermal detonator screws are swapped for pan head, slotted screws painted black, as per the L2 CRL. Type A below; Thank you in advance, Trooper.

Hi Mark, Welcome and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been posted. Your armour displays all necessary elements required by the level 2 CRL. On behalf of myself and the D.O. Staff, we would like to congratulate and welcome you to Expert Infantry, Trooper!.  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. If any suggestion affects any application, it will be listed separately in the section below. Firstly, that you for swapping out those Hovi-Tips (not pictured below). They look a lot better now. There are a couple of common areas that we discuss with the Anovos lid. Let's go through them; 1. Tube stripes - based on screen used examples, these would usually be approx a pencil width away from the cheek. You could consider removing the pre-installed Anovos ones and re-paint them a little closer to the cheeks. 2. Vocoder - as marked below, the current vocoder paint is a little undefined. You could consider defining the shape a little more, specifically the 2nd and 5th vertical bars. 3. Frown paint - whilst every screen used frown was slightly different, the majority of the frowns ended in more of a point. We would suggest extending the frown paint beyond the un-driller 5th hole to finish the frown off. Reference Frown paint examples; In an ideal world, the angle of the ears will roughly line up with the rear part of the trapezoid. If it will not damage your helmet, this could be a consideration. Reference: And, although it's not possible to tell exactly from the picture, it looks like the area in the blue circle might be showing a gap between the face and the back cap. If this is the case, then moving the ear might be good for this reason, also. Moving down to your main armour, overall your armour looks great and fits you well. If we were to make some dressing suggestions, it would be as marked below. Your left shoulder (pictured right) looks like it could come in closer to the chest. Shortening the shoulder elastic and possibly reducing the lower return edge of the bell (if required) could help to achieve this. Your right arm appears to be sitting higher than your left. This is mostly evident with the uneven gaps at your wrists. We would suggest lowering your right arm to match the left. To give you a little more room at the knees, (good for mobility and appearance), you could consider raising the thighs and a little and possibly lowering the shins a tad. They look to be sitting quite high on the boots in a couple of photos. Reference: Your back plate appears to be overlapping the kidney in a few photos. Ideally, there should be no overlap on these armour parts, so a simple strapping adjustment might help this. Reference: Another tiny dressing adjustment would be to raise your belt a little, so that the plastic belt is just below the lowest painted buttons. Reference: Centurion Suggestions:In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. The ear screws on Anovos helmets can sometimes be of the incorrect type. Although we can't be sure of the upper screws from the photos, the lower ones certainly need to be replaced if you head for Centurion. Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. We can't help but notice the filled in holes on your belt. If you choose to move on to Centurion, (which we highly recommend), we would ask that you replace the canvas belt for a cleaner look. Reference; Level 3 requires flexible hand guards. Whilst you are looking at the options for the hand guards, we would also suggest looking at replacement gloves due to the quite heavy texture on your current pair (although this could just be the photo). Flexible hand guards required - Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Blaster - For level 3, I'm afraid a more accurate blaster would be required. Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions. Check out the various blasters seen in other EIB and Centurion apps for a good selection of sources. That's it. Welcome to Expert Infantry, Mark Good job, trooper!! NB - don't forget to Request your EIB certificate here.

Hi Eric, Thank you for your Centurion application. Let's drive straight in... CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos appear to be present. Firstly, I would like to thank you for making the suggested changes suggested in your EIB app. Secondly, on behalf of myself and the FISD Deployment team, I'd like to welcome you to rank of Centurion. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this area we discuss any areas still needing some improvement. Though they will not hold you back from Centurion, Centurion is the elite level of accuracy and what we suggest here will help you reach that. Thank you for taking the time to adjust the sniper knee. We appreciate that the sniper knee can be a real pain sometimes, however, that little change has taken a beautifully built set of armour to an even higher level. Aside from the sniper knee, another minor detail is the thickness and shape of your E-11 D-Ring. As below, yours appears to be a little thinner than the originals, with a different overall shape. FISD Blaster Reference Apart from those two things, we have nothing else to say. Well, apart from many congratulations again! Get out there and make the Empire proud.

Nice progress. :-)

Ah yes, Joseph beat me to it. [emoji1303] Joseph’s right. No need to buy new ones. Changing the mesh and painting the inside is the easiest option. Here’s one way that the mesh can be installed. I’m sure there are other methods, too. Look forward to seeing back soon, Corey. You got this! :-)

Hi Eric, Thank you for such a well presented application. You've made a great job of your armour and have not really left us with much to say; however, we can't help but notice the alignment of your sniper knee. We all know that these are tricky little things, (I'm sure they're sent to us by those pesky rebels), but it looks like you could cut the sides of the sniper plate a little shorter, allowing you to hike up the left hand side (right hand side when viewed from the front) to help with the horizontal alignment. As Centurion is all about the finer details, we are going to have to ask that you take a look at adjusting this area before we move forward with your application. It's very clear from the rest of your armour that this small change is well within your grasp and that your Centurion award is just around the corner. Reference

Hi Christian, Just to add to what Q said, from an aesthetic point of view, the EFX helmet is symmetrical- the originals were asymmetrical. If you’re looking for a more accurate helmet, the vetted sellers that Q linked would be a great place to start. :-) Dan

Hi Corey, Thanks again for providing the extra photos requested. At this stage, I'm afraid we have hit a small road block with the Hove-Tips. The CRL requests "Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips." and when looking closer, the mesh on your current Hovi is quite fine and they are black inside. What we would suggest to move forward for EIB is to paint the insides white and replace the mesh with something closer to the originals. Hopefully this shouldn't take too much extra work to achieve, so just post updated photos of your helmet when the new mic tips are installed and we can carry on with your app. (No need to kit up again). Thanks in advance, Dan Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only, Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

Well done, Luis. Great job. :-)

Hi Corey, I believe we are up to date with pictures. Just in the process of running through your application. Shouldn’t be too long, Trooper. :-)

Hi Mark, Thanks for the additional photos. The light on the TD screws makes them a little hard to see clearly. With a bit of zooming, they possibly look cross-head rather than slotted. Could we ask for a clear picture of them, please? Thanks in advance. Dan

Welcome back, Eric. Thanks for such a wonderfully presented application. We'll be with you soon. BTW... I really want a mannequin now!

Same here. First met them at Legoland 2015. I couldn’t stop grinning!! You’re in good company - they’re a great bunch. :-)

Nice work mate. Sounds like you’re really enjoying this. And I don’t blame you. :-)

A good old Doopydoos kit. Nice choice. There’s some excellent reference and build tips in the link below, if you fancy some light reading. Even if you don’t do any mods, it has really handy tips on positioning the parts and paint methods. :-) https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

Hi Jack. Nothing wrong with those gaps, matey. Looks like you’re all over this build. :-)

Yeah, agreed that they vary a little. Here’s a nice reference montage from the RS suit.

Thanks, Corey. Much appreciated. For side on photos of the sniper knee, I meant a little like this; Thank you in advance.