justjoseph63

If the design was legitimately purchased (as it was in this case) but required some modifications to reach the particular needs of the person who paid for it, in my opinion I see no issue here. The "watermark" was not removed, so any future castings would be instantly recognizable, and I do not believe this trooper is out to recast them or make a profit from selling them in the future. He has simply taken the time and expense to alter your design slightly to better fit his goal. As one who has made many a silicone mold, it's not easy (or inexpensive). The fact that he has done this does not reflect badly on your design, but instead shows his desire to ensure that his end result is what he needs to make his armor look it's best.

In theory they should be the pan-head style, but we dropped that requirement a while back as that type is difficult to source for many folks. As long as the head is the right "size" (diameter) give or take and it is a slotted (not Philips) you are good to go.

Let the fun begin! My suggestions: Start with the easier pieces to get the feel of working with ABS, stay organized, post lots of photos, ask lots of questions (especially before cutting/gluing if you have any doubts), keep all the scrap ABS (for now) and most importantly take.... your.... time. Trust me.

Looking great so far, Christin! The images you are posting are perfect, showing lots of details, and there is no limit as to how many you can post per day.

Yep, we are down to only 12 spots left to become a part of FISD history... to be one of the original 1000! Who knew lo these many years ago that we would have so many dedicated troopers who would take the time to bring their armor to the next level of screen accuracy! For those who have already been approved, and those about to step up and set themselves apart, I salute you!

They would, as that tan strip above the sole looks way out of place. Something else to think about is the overall height of the upper, Lucas. If it's not tall enough, it can (and will) slip out from underneath the calf armor while walking. The taller the upper the better!

EI/CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST For all FO TK costumes (except Capt. Phasma) Mandatory Information: PHOTO GUIDELINES ___ Armor Maker Photo size- At least 800 X 600 (preferably 1280 X 960) ___ Helmet Maker Good lighting ___ Blaster Maker A neutral (solid) background color is suggested ___ Link to EI approval thread (if applying for Centurion) NOTE: Example photos can be seen at the bottom of this post, but all photos MUST be 800 x 600 or larger to show details. PDF available for download/printing here:EI & CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST FOTK.pdf Optional information: ___ Full name ___ Height/weight ___ Boot maker ___ Glove supplier ___ Gasket/Neck Seal supplier ___ Under suit supplier PLEASE NOTE Please note that since this particular armor style contains many details, there are quite a few additional photos required than for OT armor and all must be present in your submission. EXAMPLE PHOTOS SHOWN BELOW Full Body 1. ___ Front (Arms flat by side) 2. ___ Back (Arms flat by side) 3. ___ Left side (Arms raised) 4. ___ Right side (Arms raised) 5. ___ Action shot Armor Details 6. ___ Chest Plate 7. ___ Back Plate/Yoke (showing shoulder tabs) 8. ___ Chest/Back (Left side) 9. ___ Chest/Back (Right side) 10. ___ Yoke interior 11. ___ Thermal Detonator (Front) 12. ___ Thermal Detonator (right) 13. ___ Thermal Detonator (left) 14. ___ Shoulder Bell (top) 15. ___ Biceps (fronts showing greeblies) 16. ___ Forearms (close-up inside view) 17. ___ Forearms (close-up front view) 18. ___ Wrist Openings (close-up) 19. ___ Abdomen (front) 20. ___ Abdomen (left) 21. ___ Abdomen (right) 22. ___ Cod 23. ___ Posterior 24. ___ Thighs (outside view showing greeblies/holster base/holster) 25. ___ Shins (outside showing greeblies) 26. ___ Ankle Spats (outside, showing greeblies) HELMET DETAILS 27. ___ Front 28. ___ Right 29. ___ Left 30. ___ Rear ACCESSORIES 31. ___ Neck Seal 32. ___ Under suit 33. ___ Shoulder Gaskets 34. ___ Knee Gaskets 35. ___ Gloves (top, showing hand plates) 36. ___ Gloves (palms) 37. ___ Belt (left) 38. ___ Belt (right) 39. ___ Boots (showing tops/inside (zipper) WEAPON 40. ___ Left 41. ___ Right 42. ___ Rear 43. ___ Movable front handle (Centurion) 44. ___ Electronics/lights (Centurion) 45. ___ Functional holster ______________________________________________ Model: Jasper Tan (merkava74) TK 7867 Armor Type: TFA FULL BODY Photos for the full body should be a minimum of 1200 (heighth) x 800 (width) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. ARMOR DETAILS 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. HELMET DETAILS 27. 28. 29. 30. ACCESSORIES 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. WEAPON Note: Standard F-11D blaster is shown as an example, but any approved weapon listed in the CRL for your particular costume may be used. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45.

EI/CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST For all FO TK costumes (except Capt. Phasma) Mandatory Information: PHOTO GUIDELINES ___ Armor Maker Photo size- At least 800 X 600 (preferably 1280 X 960) ___ Helmet Maker Good lighting ___ Blaster Maker A neutral (solid) background color is suggested, more info in this thread ___ Link to EI approval thread (if applying for Centurion) NOTE: Example photos can be seen at the bottom of this post, but all photos MUST be 800 x 600 or larger to show details. PDF available for download/printing here:EI & CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST FOTK.pdf Optional information: ___ Full name ___ Height/weight ___ Boot maker ___ Glove supplier ___ Gasket/Neck Seal supplier ___ Under suit supplier PLEASE NOTE Please note that since this particular armor style contains many details, there are quite a few additional photos required than for OT armor and all must be present in your submission. Full Body 1. ___ Front (Arms flat by side) 2. ___ Back (Arms flat by side) 3. ___ Left side (Arms raised) 4. ___ Right side (Arms raised) 5. ___ Action shot Armor Details 6. ___ Chest Plate 7. ___ Back Plate/Yoke (showing shoulder tabs) 8. ___ Chest/Back (Left side) 9. ___ Chest/Back (Right side) 10. ___ Yoke interior 11. ___ Thermal Detonator (Front) 12. ___ Thermal Detonator (right) 13. ___ Thermal Detonator (left) 14. ___ Shoulder Bell (top) 15. ___ Biceps (fronts showing greeblies) 16. ___ Forearms (close-up inside view) 17. ___ Forearms (close-up front view) 18. ___ Wrist Openings (close-up) 19. ___ Abdomen (front) 20. ___ Abdomen (left) 21. ___ Abdomen (right) 22. ___ Cod 23. ___ Posterior 24. ___ Thighs (outside view showing greeblies/holster base/holster) 25. ___ Shins (outside showing greeblies) 26. ___ Ankle Spats (outside, showing greeblies) HELMET DETAILS 27. ___ Front 28. ___ Right 29. ___ Left 30. ___ Rear ACCESSORIES 31. ___ Neck Seal 32. ___ Under suit 33. ___ Shoulder Gaskets 34. ___ Knee Gaskets 35. ___ Gloves (top, showing hand plates) 36. ___ Gloves (palms) 37. ___ Belt (left) 38. ___ Belt (right) 39. ___ Boots (showing tops/inside (zipper) WEAPON 40. ___ Left 41. ___ Right 42. ___ Rear 43. ___ Movable front handle (Centurion) 44. ___ Electronics/lights (Centurion) 45. ___ Functional holster ______________________________________________ Model: Jasper Tan (merkava74) TK 7867 Armor Type: TFA FULL BODY Photos for the full body should be a minimum of 1200 (heighth) x 800 (width) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. ARMOR DETAILS 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. HELMET DETAILS 27. 28. 29. 30. ACCESSORIES 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. WEAPON Note: Standard F-11D blaster is shown as an example, but any approved weapon listed in the CRL for your particular costume may be used. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45.

Got mine yesterday, and I think I need to take a relaxing day off to enjoy it thoroughly!

Looking good so far, sir! One thing I would suggest is to trim a little more of the return edges from the sides of the posterior plate. From what I can see, it looks as if the corner of the lower portion has a pretty sharp angle, which you want to avoid. Having a sharp angle anywhere you have return edges will increase the likelihood of splits/cracks. Rounding off those angles will help prevent this.

The interior cover strips are there for functionality, so they don't have to look pretty and will not affect approval at any level.

Hi Ian, and THANKS for your submission! I will be with ya' shortly, sir.

LOVE IT, but I am SO going to steal that idea, Chris.... OTKD. You heard it here first, folks LOL.

Well, some of us do...

Looks great, Chris, and welcome to the FISD! The good thing is that you probably have most (if not all) of the tools you will need... now it comes time to choose your armorer. First, as you probably know I would avoid 99% of the ones on ebay/Etsy. We have a thread dedicated to those armorers who are tried and true located here, and you are always welcome (and encouraged) to ask all the questions you have.. we are here to help every step of the way! Since you are doing an ROTJ Vader, you probably want to go with ROTJ TK armor. For that, you can't get any better than a kit from Mark at CFO, and you can PM him here: @sskunky.

GREAT job on the trimming so far, Rob! You mentioned you were looking for bubble lenses and 3 bump ear bars, but if you are aiming for a Hero build the frown can only have 6 openings (3 on each side). The helmet you have has 8 (Stunt style). Note the extra opening on the ends on yours Hero Can this be fixed? Yep. I changed an Anovos Stunt Helmet to a Hero using ABS paste to fill those holes (not an easy task, though). I would steer well clear of CA (super) glue. Seriously. Although E-6000 takes 24 hours to dry, it is much more forgiving and can be removed easily if it drips on your armor. If you make a mistake, the bond can be broken with no damage, but with CA glue, once it's set it's set. Drips must be sanded off and the finish polished. Not easy. Trust me. Thread moved, title updated!

Some excellent advice from Glen and Randy there, Marcel, especially the "double snap" system (I swear by it). Here is an example:

I couldn't find anything on Etsy from "leather by gauth". Do you have a link? Thanks!

Welcome, Rob, and congrats on your ATA purchase! I see that you have a Stunt helmet, and you certainly can should head toward Centurion! You have a fantastic start by posting a build thread, so feel free to ask all the questions you need/want to and post lots of photos, especially when you come across an issue. One thing I would suggest is that you allow myself or another staff member to relocate your thread to the Build Threads area here and add (ATA) to the end of the title. This way it makes it easier for others to add suggestions and advice, and also serves as a reference for future ATA builders! My best advice at this point is take.... your....time. Rushing things can lead to mistakes. Trust me. Also, when in doubt about something, always ask before cutting or gluing. I would also recommend getting your under-suit as soon as possible. Wearing this during the fitting process will ensure that the various pieces sit correctly against your body. Some like the one-piece type, but most of us use the 2 piece. I have some examples on my thread here. Hint: Keep all the scrap ABS when trimming, as these can used for interior cover strips for strengthening joins.

Definitely not a TM ab, and the raised area on the small ab-button has an indentation in the center of the bottom, unlike ATA's which is completely flat on the top. They may have been re-worked to make it look original, though. Grunt props TM Grunt ATA

One quick favor... I added the info. to the top of your first post, but can you add a link to your EI approval thread below it? Thanks!

Hi Mister, and thanks for your application for ANH Stunt Centurion! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Centurion! On behalf of the DO team and myself, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Fantastic job on taking care of those issues, brother (especially the rear of those thigh bottoms)! Everything looks spectacular, but there is one small item I forgot to suggest... I recommend trimming back the brow trim a bit on the left side. A super easy fix that will take all of 10 seconds and bring you that one step closer to screen accuracy... (it's all about the little details). Just a hint here, but I would consider attaching some white Velcro (the fuzzy side) to the rear of your TD clips. This will prevent them from scratching your kidney plate, especially when sliding it on/off. (Trust me). And that's it! Once Lord Vader gives the thumbs up for us to get out and troop again, you will be rocking this armor and representing the Outer Rim Garrison with pride as it's newest Centurion. Well done!

Not to worry. The pan-head screw requirement was dropped last year, and the ones you have will be good all the way to Centurion as long as the head diameter is not too large.