justjoseph63

Awesome! One of us will be with ya' as soon as possible, so hang in there. Thanks!

Truly sorry to hear that, Rob. Although DD makes a great kit, their customer service/communication is horrible. I have ordered several of these, and they always took well over 2 months to arrive. The last time, I contacted PP (as you did), I heard back from DD the next day and received the kit a week later. PP will usually step in quickly, and I think DD realizes that if they have too many complaints PP can (and will) drop them as a payment alternative,

SO CLOSE, Brett! Looks like you have done well posting some of the pics, but we need a few more to get you going, sir. Interior strapping Close-up of cod/butt plate snaps/rivet (inside and out) Neck seal Thermal Detonator (front/side/back showing screw type) Interior strapping Close-up of cod/butt plate snaps (inside and out) Neck seal Close-up of ab plate details showing buttons Although not required for EI, we would also like a pic of the "Han" snap on the top of the ab plate (as seen below). No need to get suited up for these, just snap some clear photos of the individual pieces and post em' up. Thanks!

These should help give you a good idea...

I have been on a lot of troops, and never heard of any type of SW costume being excluded. The only exception may be children's hospitals, where characters like this (or even Tusken Raiders) may be a little too intense or scary for very young kids.

If it were me, I would reconsider using a 3D printed rail, JR. The reason being is that it will be pretty thin, and since you will have not only the scope, but the Hengstler counter as well mounted to it, if it gets bumped hard the rail could break. Ouch. I would seriously think about using steel or aluminum. You can pick up a 3/4 wide strip from Lowe's for a few bucks (in the hardware area), cut it to length and cut/bend then end. There is an EXCELLENT tutorial here that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?do=findComment&comment=414706 Although you can order the one piece metal ones (bracket attached to the rail as seen on your 3D printed one) online, I just bought an L shaped bracket (Lowe's), screwed it to the counter and then to the rail.

DEFINITELY! Most of the time the public just sees white armor, and since the differences can be subtle to the "untrained" eye they rarely notice them. BUT, as Tom mentioned, once you are familiar with the various types of armor the differences will stand out. If ESB is your favorite choice, I for one say follow that gut feeling and you can't go wrong! One thing I would strongly suggest is that you not only look over some of the build threads here, but start your own. This way, you can ask all the questions you may have (and there will be lots) and post up photos. Posting photos is very important, and I can't stress that enough. You can not only show off your progress, but if you have an issue we can better give you more precise information on how to remedy it. It takes a little extra time, but trust me on this one. We are here to help every step of the way.

That is not one I am familiar with.. do you have photos or a link to view it? If you could only pick one, it would be the cocking handle. Since it's pretty thin and sticks out it can be prone to snapping off, so a metal one would be the way to go. The resin folding stock should be fine as long as it is well secured to the barrel. If you do decide to go with the metal folding stock shoot me a PM and I can give you some pointers.

PM sent

Not a problem, sir, and glad to hear that you will be getting on this!

Hi Laura, and GREAT to see the new photos! One last thing before we can get started, trooper... unfortunately the D-ring on your E-11 is a rectangle and needs to be more of an oval shape (rounded on the sides) as seen in the reference images below. One small fix and we can get going on your submission. THANKS!!

Hi Brett, and thanks for your submission! (Great looking set of armor, by the way)! Before we can "move along", we need some information as well as more photos as listed below. Please add them to your original post so that we can get started as soon as possible for ya'. Thanks! Mandatory info: Name Armor maker Helmet maker Blaster maker Boots Optional info. (Helpful) Height/weight Photos required: Helmet- Close-up of front, left side. right side, rear. Lenses back lit to show color. Close up of Hovi-tips/vocoder. Front view- Arms flat by your side ** Close-up of ab plate details showing buttons Close-up of kidney/ab plate connection left side and right side ** Wrist openings Interior strapping Close-up of cod/butt plate snaps (inside and out) Neck seal Thermal Detonator (front/side/back showing screw type) Close-up of boots Canvas/ABS belt rear Drop boxes (rear) Hand guards (showing flexibility) and gloves (rubber) The only photos we need you to suit up for are the ones marked with a double asterisk (**). The others can be taken on their own. THANKS, and I look forward to seeing them!

For Centurion level, the requirements for the E-11 are listed towards the bottom of the CRL page here, Luke. When deciding on which type you prefer, it comes down to a few things: 1. Rubber- Good points: Basically indestructible, and many (but not all) are approvable at Centurion level. A nice choice when you want to let someone hold it for a photo. Bad points: Not as screen accurate/realistic. (But then again, 99% of the public won't notice) . Can cost several hundred dollars for a quality one. 2. Doopydoos- Good points: Fairly inexpensive and can be modified to look incredibly realistic with some attention to detail and replacement parts. Great for those with mild OCD (like myself) and a lot of time on their hands to do this. Bad points: Being made of resin, they need to be handled a little more carefully. I personally never let anyone hold my weapons, saying something along the lines of "The Emperor/Lord Vader forbids it" or "It's against Imperial regulations" when they ask. I have built and trooped with several DD resin E-11's through the years and never had a breakage issue. Long wait times for delivery (often out of stock). 3. 3D print- Good points: Relatively inexpensive. Can be very accurate depending on the designer and can be modified in certain cases for a more realistic appearance. Bad points: Can be somewhat fragile (like the resin type). Also, depending on the printing method there can/will be a LOT (think hours and hours) of sanding/filling involved to smooth out all the print lines, a requirement for Centurion level. A lot of it also depends on your budget. Being a little lot on the OCD side,I modified the heck out of my last DD build using a real Sterling magazine (modified) link here. I also used this same seller to replace the resin folding stock, rear cap, cocking handle, magazine well, front sight assembly and a bunch of other items with metal ones. This may seem a little extreme, but being an accuracy nut it was worth it. And, of course, I personally would never do a DD build without one of Tino's crazy-accurate E-11 finishing kits.

Lookin' sharp, Caleb! I see nothing that should hold you back from Basic approval, sir.

All Chicago screws are like this. Some have a Philips head on one side, but the slotted type (like you have) are what you need.

I would remove it all, Luke (as seen with the blue arrows below). Any return edge will eventually wear the paint off of your boots from friction. Sanding the edges down super smooth will help prevent that as well.

One last photo, Dani. Please post up a clear, close-up photo of the ab/kidney rivets (no need to suit up). Thanks!!

Nope, not imagining things lol. But normal oil based paint is not meant for porous surfaces or items that flex (like leather).

Good point, Shawn. I would go with the 12.5 size and see how they fit. If they are a bit tight there are products that may help in stretching them if needed like this one on Amazon. If you get them to the "ideal" width, I would suggest using shoe (not boot) stretchers to keep them from shrinking, and installing them after each use,

The folks at RS are experts in fitting armor and will make any necessary adjustments as needed for your height, so not to worry. If there happens to be an issue, their customer service is second to none.

Glad to hear that you are not rushing your build, which often leads to mistakes...My old adage here is "consider it a marathon, and not a sprint". GREAT to know that you are aiming for Centurion , which is where your patience and attention to detail will come into play. Since AM includes all the correct hardware and such, you are way ahead of the game, so now it's just a matter of asking lots of questions when you need to (don't forget the photos) and allowing us to steer you in the right direction. Once you get started, I will be following your build thread and chiming in when asked.... BUT, that comes at a price. When you collect the Imperial candy tax in October some fun-size Butterfingers would be nice . Just kidding, but if you need specific help I am always available via PM.

Probably paint (dye) specifically designed for leather. Oil based paints dry to a "shell" like finish, and would crack as soon as the leather was bent.

It depends on how "screen accurate" you want to be, Jose. The originals were painted Chelsea style boots, and some like the beat-up look of them which I think adds to their charm. However, I think most of us prefer the pre-dyed version from the manufacturer (like IB).

Welcome to the FISD, Shane (and son)! AM is a fantastic set of armor no doubt, and Dave's customer service is second to none. My AM has held up for years without any cracking, splits or yellowing and I couldn't be happier with it. One thing I would highly suggest is to start your own build thread(s) in this section. This way, you can (and are encouraged to) ask all the questions you want to as well as post lots of photos of your progress. Posting photos is especially important when you run across an issue, and we are here to help every step of the way! You are located in Parjai Squad territory in the Florida Garrison, so if you haven't done so already I would join up there and introduce yourself. While you "hurry up and wait", there are a few tutorial links under my name below that may help, especially the one for the supplies you will need. Best of luck to the both of you on your white armor journey!!

Looking SHARP, Darren! That is definitely a Hero bucket, so If that is what you are applying for you don't forget that the holster has 4 rivets instead of 2 like the Stunt style. Also, at some point you may want to raise your belt as well and make sure it's level. Ideally, the top of the ABS portion should ride over the bottom of the large ab-button plate. Here are some reference images for when you get to the point of painting/trimming the ab-button plates: If you have any questions, just ask!