justjoseph63

Super! Just post it up here and she can get started as soon as possible. Thanks!

WOW!

Sounds great, and I can't wait to see them!

Nice job on those fixes, Brett! It looks like we missed an item on your EI submission () which will need to be taken care of. The paint on a few of the ab-buttons needs to be reduced just a bit (there should be a small area of the bottom that shows). Some non-acetone paint remover (even Goo-Gone), some toothpicks and a few cotton swabs should do the trick! Also, Sha Sha is taking a quick break, but she will be with you as soon as possible. This will give you time to take care of those buttons!

Looking GREAT, sir! Can I ask for one more photo from ya'? You did an awesome job on the rear thigh bottom gaps, brother, but I'd like to see a clear, close-up pic (no need to get suited up) so that I can use it as a reference to show those with the same issue just how nice it can turn out! Thanks!!!

You da' MAN, Glen!

Hi Diego, and THANKS for your EI submission! Before we can move you along there are a few items we need, sir. First up are some of the required photos (examples shown below). 1. Interior strapping 2. Wrist openings 3. Sniper knee close-up (right hand side) 4. Thigh ammo pack (left side close-up) 5. Helmet (left side close-up) 6. Helmet (right side close-up) 7. Helmet (rear) 8. Action shot (choose your own pose) 9. Frown (close-up) 10. Ab button plates 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8 9. 10. We are requesting that you add a quick coat of white paint to the ear screws, thigh ammo pack rivets and ab/kidney rivets. (EASY fix)! The screw heads on the thermal detonator will need to be painted black. You will need an ammo (Hengstler) counter mounted on the left hand side of your E-11, as this is a requirement. We will aslo need right and left images. Thanks, and I look forward to seeing the updated photos!

Es fantástico saber que harás los cambios, Leonardo! Puede publicar las fotos actualizadas en este hilo cuando esté listo.

Since Frank (rhapsodyred99) purchased this directly from RS he would not have a mold, but this may be what you are looking for: https://www.rspropmasters.com/store/snowtrooper/snowtrooper-blasters/blaster-e-11-empire-strikes-back-style-stuntbackground/

Plus, many folks refer to other's EI threads for builds and when getting ready for EI/Centurion.

A few others have had this issue as well, Brett. Not sure if it can be done (you may have to use a laptop/PC) but hopefully someone can weigh in.

WOW...great job, Jeklyn!!! I have a thread here something along those lines, but definitely looking forward to seeing what you do with this! (I am SO going to be using some of those images)!

We would rather you not delete any images from your EI thread, Brett. imgur has unlimited storage space (I have well over 1,200 stored there).

Looking SHARP (as usual) Justin! I know you will be going for the "triple crown" (Centurion # 3) with this awesome armor. Just watch those gaps .

Hola Leornando: Es lamentable tener que decirlo pero tenemos algunas malas noticias para ti. Desafortunadamente hay varios elementos que impiden que puedas alcanzar el nivel de Experto de Infantería en este momento: Hi Leonardo, I'm sad to say we have some bad news for you, sir. Unfortunately, there are several items that are stopping you from reaching Expert Infantry level at this time. 1. Tu armadura presenta mucho desgaste,( marcas de batalla). Como se indica en el CRL para el nivel 2, varios componentes están "ligeramente marcados... pero no tan desgastados como un Sandtrooper", de modo que hay que remover la mayor parte: 1. Your armor has way too much weathering. As stated in the CRL for Level 2, the various components are "..lightly scuffed... but not weathered like a Sandtrooper", so much of it will have to be removed/toned down. CRL reference CRL Reference CRL Reference Video game reference Video game reference CRL Reference Video game reference 2. Aunque la Placas Lumbar y Posterior deben estar conectados (como los tiene), la longitud total es demasiado, lo que hace que se quede muy bajo en tu zona posterior y se vea demasiado lejos del cuerpo en la sección posterior inferior. Tomaría un poco de trabajo, pero podrías pensar en reducir la longitud como se muestra en el diagrama y luego volver a conectarlo para una MUCHO mejor apariencia. dado que el TKC se basa en la armadura ROTJ, incluímos una foto de referencia de cómo debería verse "idealmente". 2. Although the kidney and posterior plate must be connected (as you have it), the overall length is just too long and lacks any "contour" shape, causing it to ride too low behind you and sit too far away from your body in the lower rear section. It would take some work, but you might think about reducing the length by cutting it down as shown in the diagram and then re-connecting it for a MUCH better appearance. Since TKC is based on ROTJ armor, I am including a reference photo of how it should "ideally" look. TKC example ROTJ screen capture reference 3. Por último, como se indica en el CRL "El casco es preciso en detalle y en proporción a las referencias oficiales". Como puedes ver en las imágenes de referencia del videojuego y en pantalla a continuación, las aperturas de los ojos son casi idénticas en ambos lados. Aunque se espera cierta asimetría, desafortunadamente, el tamaño / forma de la abertura del ojo izquierdo no coincide con la derecha lo suficiente. 3. As listed in the CRL "The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references". As you can see in the video game and screen used reference images below, the eye openings are nearly identical on both sides. Although some asymmetry is expected, unfortunately the size/shape of your left eye opening does not match the right one closely enough. Video game reference ROTJ screen used helmet references 4. Para TKC Nivel 2, el E-11 debe ser del tipo ESB o ROTJ y no tener un contador de munición. 4. For TKC Level 2, the E-11 must be either the ESB or ROTJ type and not have an ammo counter. ESB ROTJ Sinceramente, esperamos que puedas tomar el tiempo para trabajar en esta armadura para que se vea aún mejor, pero lamentamos decir que será necesario reemplazar el casco debido a la apertura del ojo izquierdo. Dejanos saber si podemos ayudarte en algo. We honestly hope you can take the time to work on this armor to get it looking even better, but we are sorry to say that the helmet will need to be replaced because of the left eye opening. If we can be of any help, please let us know!

Congrats on posting the pics!! I am assuming that you are aiming for ANH Stunt, Aaron, in which case don't forget that for Basic approval the kidney and posterior (butt) plate are separate.

This is going to be tricky. Although the outside will bend easily, the return edge will not. At all. At some point in the curve you will get a wrinkle or two in it, (pic 3) which will cause a weak spot or crack. You can try reducing the width of the edge to around 1/4 inch, but you will need to keep a close eye on it during the bending process. Don't let this alarm you, though. Any wrinkle/crack can (should) be reinforced on the inside with scrap ABS to keep it from spreading up the edge of the outside.

You can find a set of the "Needle files" at Lowe's for less than 4 bucks, and as Glen mentioned, they really do give you control on the edges. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-6-Piece-Needle-File-Set/4777067

Here is a excerpt from my tutorial that may help, Aaron. Link to complete thread can be found here. In your imgur Gallery, LEFT click on the center area of the pic you wish to post, which will bring you to the area as seen below. 1. LEFT click on Copy next to Direct Link. 2. Paste into your post or thread. DONE DEAL!

If you decide to use CA (super) glue, just be VERY careful. If it drips onto your armor in places where you don't want it, it has to be sanded off, followed by a lot of polishing. The folks at RS are accustomed to working with it. but I only suggest it as a last choice. CA glue can become brittle over time and lead to separation. On my first build, I used it to attach the nylon bases to my armor (the ones the strapping connects to, as seen below). After 5-6 troops they started popping off, so I had to remove them all and re-attach them using E-6000. Not fun, but no problems after that.

The Testors Model Masters line comes in both acrylic and enamel, but unfortunately has a limited number of colors so I would go with their regular line of model paints. To remove the acrylic paint I suggest Goo-Gone or a similar citrus based product, NOT acetone or the like. Satin Black: Testors # 1747 for vocoder, trap/ tear/ear bar outlines/stripe(s), TD screw heads. Gloss white for all rivet heads (excluding cod rivet). (Hint: Sand the heads down first for better adhesion). I believe Dave supplies the decals** for the traps and tube stripes, but if you decide to paint them go with: Gray: Testors # 1138 for trap/tear drop/ear bar background, ANH frown and ab-buttons. French Blue: Testors # 2715 ForTube stripes/ab buttons. **Decals are acceptable for all levels.

CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST (for all non-FO TK costumes) Mandatory Information: PHOTO GUIDELINES ___ Armor Maker Photo size- At least 800 X 600 (preferably 1280 X 960) ___ Helmet Maker Good lighting ___ Blaster Maker A neutral (solid) background color is suggested ___ Link to your EI Approval thread ___ Permission photos social media: Yes IMPORTANT!- Example photos can be seen below, but all photos MUST be 800 x 600 or larger to show details. You MUST include a link to your EI Approval Thread with your submission PDF Available for download/printing here:CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST-converted.pdf Optional information: ___ Full name ___ Height/weight ___ Boot maker ___ Canvas belt supplier ___ Hand guard supplier ___ Holster maker Please be aware that all photos listed below are required for approval Full Body 1. ___ Front (Arms flat by side, no weapon) 2. ___ Back (Arms flat by side) 3. ___ Left side (Arms raised) 4. ___ Right side (Arms raised) 5. ___ Left side detail (arms raised) 6. ___ Right side detail (arms raised) Armor Details 7. ___ Cod and posterior plate connections showing rivet/snaps (exterior) 8. ___ Shoulder bridges- Front/rear/sides 9. ___ Thigh ammo pack connections (interior and exterior, left and right sides) 10. ___ Sniper knee plate (left and right sides) 11. ___ Wrist openings 12. ___ Abdomen button plates (close-up) 13. ___ Posterior plate/kidney connection (back and/or front) Helmet Details 14. ___ Front 15. ___ Left side 16. ___ Right side 17. ___ Rear 18. ___ Close-up of Hovi tips 19. ___ S-trim (side view) 20. ___ Ear screws (close up, left, right and bottom). Accessories 21. ___ TD (Thermal Detonator) front and rear showing screw type 22. ___ Hand guards bent showing flexibility 23. ___ Holster attachment 24. ___ ABS/canvas belt (rear, showing drop boxes) 25. ___ Boots (tops and sides) BLASTER 26. ___ Left side 27. ___ Right side 28. ___ Rear (showing D-ring) Important! IF A PARTICULAR DETAIL IS NOT CLEARLY VISIBLE, THE APPLICANT MAY BE ASKED TO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL PHOTOS. Model: Philip Aitken (Ruffalo) TK 41808 Armor type: ANH Stunt FULL BODY 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. ARMOR DETAILS 7. 8. (Front) 8. (Rear) 8. (Side) 9. (Left) 9. (Right) 10. (Left) 10. (Right) 11. 12. 13. HELMET DETAILS 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. ACCESSORIES 21. (Front/top) 21. (Rear) 22. 23. 24. 25. BLASTER 26. 27. 28. A big shout-out (and many thanks) to Andrew (Sly11) for doing the PDF for this!

Hi Stephanie! The kind of paint you have there is acrylic, which may adhere to your helmet (and ab buttons) at first, but unfortunately it will simply not last, and will flake/rub off very quickly. Water based paints simply do not bond to plastic the way enamel (oil based) paints do, so it's better to go with enamel from the start. (Trust me on this one). You can pick up small containers of enamel paint at any hobby/craft store, and I also suggest purchasing some quality brushes to apply it with, not those cheap "throw away" ones you find at discount stores. Bad brushes = bad results. I would also recommend picking up some mineral spirits to clean the brushes with (thoroughly) after each use. This is your build thread, so please feel free to ask ALL the questions you have... we are here to help every step of the way! Posting photos will be very helpful, especially when you come across an issue that you need assistance with.

Hi Aaron! As noted above, there are more than a few issues with Jedi Robe armor, as it is a recast (copy) of a recast, and unfortunately would probably not pass Basic 501st approval without extensive modifications (think time and money). If you can post up some detailed photos that would help us better gauge what you are looking at, but to be honest it would probably be best to sell it on ebay and go with one of our "vetted" armorers, who provide quality kits with great customer service (link here). All of these sellers provide kits that are 100% approvable for all levels of accuracy (when built correctly, of course) but that's where we come in. We are here to help every step of the way!

Thanks, Caleb! Andrew is working on the PDF at the moment so give him a bit of time. You, sir, ROCK!