justjoseph63

Have you tried imgur? It is a free photo sharing site that most of use use since the Photobucket fiasco. Really easy to edit, post etc. Here is a link that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42381-howto-post-images-in-threads-using-imgur-easy/

WOW, Arthur! I've been waiting 5 months for this! Outstanding job on those helmet fixes, brother. Just need the rest of the photos!! For those of you who may not be aware, I have asked Arthur to be the new ESB CRL model for the upcoming updated version, and he has agreed. Well done, sir!

It still looks as if they are too tight and may have more of a U shaped opening and should have more of a C shape. You might consider a hot water bath to re-shape them. This is what I would do: Get a large pot of water, heat it to near boiling and grab one of your biceps. Place one shoulder bell in the water for a minute or so, remove it (use tongs, trust me) and press it down onto the bicep quickly using a dish towel and "mold" it around the bicep. (Keep it in place while it cools, or it can revert back to the original shape). This should widen the bottom/sides and help them conform better. It may take some experimenting for the amount of time you keep the bell in the water to get it to the right temperature for bending it.

You're off to a great start, Derek! In case you need it, I have a thread (link below) which will help you get all your supplies in order. Best to do this beforehand so that you aren't scrambling around during your build. Be sure to ask all the questions you have (especially before cutting or gluing) and post up lots of photos! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ Here is another thread to consider: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

Relocating the holes is a bit of a pain, but as Tony mentioned it will indeed need to be done for Centurion level if you (hopefully) choose to aim for that. You would have to remove the existing rivets of course, then whip up a small batch of ABS paste, fill the holes, sand them down and install new rivets. If you are up to this tack and need a new set of rivets, just PM me and I will send you a set no charge. Here are a couple of links that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42737-how-to-remove-bifurcated-split-rivets/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ Here is another pic of a screen used ab for reference:

File this under useless trivia: I had a chat with Brian Muir at a Con in Tampa and asked him specifically about the thumbprint. He said it was not actually in his original sculpt and had no idea how it got there or why it was only seen on the left side.

Then I probably met you! I have been at all of Gary's APs for the last 3 years. Great to see that you are ready for approval!

REALLY nice job on this armor, Alicia, especially since you had to cut it down quite a bit! I can see no major issues that would keep you from Basic approval, but of course that would be up to your GML. A few small issues that I would recommend (especially if you are hopefully aiming for EI/Centurion) are listed below, but none that should affect basic. Best of luck on your approval! 1. Paint the kidney rivets white. 2. Change out the bottom ear screws to the flat countersunk slotted type. (The same as the top 2). 3. AWESOME job on the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection! The gap in the front is also perfect, but the gap in the back is a little wide. Removing all the return edge from the bottom of the bells will help bring them in a bit. 4. The strapping on your bicep/forearm connection is causing them to sit unevenly, resulting in a difference in the size of the gaps. 5. The bottom of the back plate wants to ride out. Some additional strapping towards the ends or reducing the length of the existing straps may help. Since I am a member of the Makaze Squad, I gotta ask about the "Honorable Mention" thing, lol.

While we (honestly) appreciate your views, Dustin, at the moment (with a few exceptions) the D.O. staff are bound to follow what is written in the CRLs which we know are ever evolving so we are not "dismissing" your evidence. Details that may have been missed when they were initially composed are noticed, which is why we are in the process of performing updates. Please realize that updating the CRLs is not a simple task, and that those doing so are volunteers, so things take time. We will be doing the CRL updates in "batches", with OT TKs coming first, as those make up the vast majority of level 2 and 3 approvals. Immediately after those updates are approved and posted, we will be starting on FO TKs. We have several troopers who are current FO TKs (including one or our LMOs) that have an incredible working knowledge of these costumes who will be advising on prospective changes when that time comes, so yes, we DO have FO TKs who will be involved. At some point during the proposed changes there will be a discussion opened up for all members to contribute, and I hope your voice will be one of those. Also, consider that we are the largest Detachment in the 501st, and therefore the D.O.s have 19 TK costumes within the FISD that they are expected to approve at higher levels. No one can honestly be expected to be an expert in every single one, so they depend on the CRLs to supply this information. As a former D.O., I can assure you that they certainly try, though. In closing, bear with us, voice your opinion when the time comes, and know that it will be heard and considered. I promise you that.

Great job, Adi! If you want to get a head-start on your EI submission, it would help a lot to post up some close-up photos of your wrist openings, ab plate details and bucket.

The unpainted one (pan-head) on the right is correct and 100% approvable at Centurion level.

Nothing strikes terror into the soul like a TK brandishing an Imperial Issue toilet brush.

Welcome to the FISD, Dawn! Your timing could not be better. We will be soon be beginning to get our CRLs up to date and I look forward to working with you!

When ordering anything I would highly suggest only using PayPal and selecting the "Goods and Services" option. I have conducted hundreds of transactions through them and never had a problem. If you do, they are fast in getting your money back. I won't order anything online using a different method. I can assure you that Rob is an outstanding seller with a sterling reputation, so your card was skimmed or the site hacked.

I wouldn't recommend gluing any elastic directly to your armor, especially the white shoulder elastic. The reason being is that over time elastic will wear/get stretched out. Although this was the method used in ANH, those costumes were not meant for long-term use. I have replaced the elastic in my shoulders several times over the years, as the snaps that hold the shoulder bells in place eventually pull out due to repeated use. I suggest setting the snap parts that attach to your armor itself with nylon (as seen below). I normally use E-6000 for these, but the shoe-goo would work.

Sorry for the delay, Darrell, one of the D.O.s will be with you soon! Thanks for your patience.

Nice job on the paint fixes, Josh! Glen is spot-on in his suggestion for trimming the ab-button plate, and the small one should have square corners as well. As seen in the reference image he supplied, ideally the outside of the large one should be well inside the raised area. For a much better look, this is how I would suggest trimming it:

Can you show views of the sides, Phil? Also, when using imgur select the Direct Link option (second from the top). This will allow them to be seen on your thread.

Nice work on this armor, Josh! We appreciate the additional photos, but can you post up one more? Please add one showing a close-up side view of your large ab button plate. Thanks!!

Looking pretty sharp there, Art! Speaking strictly from a basic approval standpoint, overall there are no big issues. Your GML may ask you to replace the canvas belt, as even though it looks as if you have removed the top screws that hold the holster on the holes remain. They may also mention that your forearms could come up a bit to close the gap between the them and the bicep. You have done a great job of fitting this armor, especially as you are a bit taller than the average trooper, and should you wish to apply for Expert Infantry there are a few items that would need to be addressed but nothing insurmountable I assure you. Though again, not required, I would suggest painting the ab/kidney rivets white.

There are quite a few options, Zylo. Below are a few links that may help, but before purchasing one (either pre-built or a kit) I would ask for opinions here on the FISD before ordering. There are a ton of them on the market in a wide price range, but not all are acceptable at the higher levels. 1. https://www.etsy.com/market/e_11_blaster 2. https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Blaster-Functioning-Spring-Mechanism/dp/B07NSF18QX/ref=sr_1_4?hvadid=33784295951&hvbmt=p&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=e11+blaster&qid=1552127614&s=gateway&sr=8-4&tag=geminipcstand-20 3. https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp Note that 3-D printed weapons are permitted, but will need quite a bit of work (filling 3-D print lines, LOTS of sanding, paint, etc.) and must have the details as required.

In the original films, (especially ANH) there were all sorts of costume issues (as seen in this thread). When applying for basic 501st approval, we go by standards set forth in the Costume Reference Library (CRL). These represent the way an "ideal" costume should look. For basic approval, the standards are not as strict as the higher levels. Troopers who choose to bring their armor to closer levels of screen accuracy can apply for Expert Infantry status and even move on to Centurion status if the standards are met. The requirements for each of these is listed in the CRLs as well. Here is a link that will show you a complete list of FISD costumes, as well as the requirements for each. Hope this helps, but if you have any questions please feel free to ask in the appropriate area. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL

Much better! On a side note, there should be no weathering on the T-tracks. These were made of plastic, and would have no "metal" showing. Reference image

Hi, David, just a note to let you know that we are still awaiting close up photos of your TD showing the correct screws. At present you have 2 different types, but unfortunately neither are correct as required in the CRL for level 2. As seen below, #1. is a Fillister head, #2. is a truss head. Fillister head Truss head Pan head (correct style) We realize that this may seem like a small issue, but because it is specifically listed in the CRL for level 2 we must insist on the correct type before moving forward, and look forward to seeing your updated photos with the new screws. Thank you!

Nice job on that cover strip fix, Eric!!