justjoseph63

Frank is 100% correct. Here are some Amazon links that may help: Shirt: https://www.amazon.com/Lavento-Compression-Baselayer-Crewneck-Long-Sleeve/dp/B0757MWGZQ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=men+compression+shirt+black&qid=1554888354&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Pants:------------

Here is the folding stock (outlined in red): This particular one is of the "functioning" type, but the ones that are molded in (Hyperfirm/Praetorian) as Tony mentioned are completely fine all the way to level 3.

You may want to get in touch with @ukswrath. When it comes to electronics, he has a ton of items for sale! Hre is a link that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35211-ukswraths-go-to-thread/

Hi Brian! Unfortunately, you may be limited to what type of kit you can use. The Doopydoos (link below) Hengstler counter is solid resin, but can be hollowed out with a bit lot of work and a Dremel tool and the right bits, and the scope can be hollowed out (to a point) as well. The barrell is also quite thick (but somewhat hollow) and would be more of a challenge. A 3D printed kit may be your best option, but will require a lot of sanding/filling to eliminate the print lines (very important, trust me). Just be sure that there are no obvious on/off switches as seen in the video. Since the electronics are installed in parts that are held on with screws, if it were me I would wait until after you get approved at Centurion to add them. The reason being is that for level 3 we are looking for the "ideal" weapon, and although the additions are definitely cool, they were not seen/used in the original films. You may be a "noob" (I prefer the term "future trooper) but that's what we are here for, so please feel free to ask any and all questions you may have... it's what we do here! https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp

You will also need to get some gray paint (Humbrol # 5 or Testors # 1138) and redo the teeth as shown:

Yeah, it seems that Anovos went from one extreme to the other on the frown paint. They used to carry it all the way into the gum line, and now it's too short! I would grab some Humbrol # 5 or Testors # 1138 gray paint at a hobby shop and re-do them all. Hint: Use a quality, soft bristle brush with a fine tip for painting, especially in the small V on the sides.

The issue I see with trying to bend that area is that the return edge will prevent it. If you do manage to bend it via a heat source, it will put a lot of stress on the area (see arrow) and cause the return edge to buckle. This will create an area that will more than likely split or crack the plate at some point (trust me). The alternative is to remove the return edge, which will make it much easier to bend. If you decide to go that route, be sure to remove the edges on both sides so that they match. Also, it may be a strange camera angle, but are both your chest plate tabs the same length? The right one seems to be shorter.

Willkommen auf der FISD, Christopher! Wenn Sie Ihre offizielle 501. TK-Nummer haben und sich hier an der FISD beteiligen möchten, melden Sie sich hier für den Zugang zur Legion an: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

In my humble opinion, you really don't need to go as severe on the weathering. As the old saying goes. "Sometimes less is more". If you look at many of the blasters in ANH, many (if not most) had a minimal amount of wear and tear.

OK, I just heard back from Dale, and they have several kits ready to ship! I gave him your email address, so he should be in contact soon. Hope this helps!

Note that for ANH Stunt and Hero Centurion approval the hand guards must be affixed to the rubber gloves with no visible strapping. Due to climate conditions, many troopers opt for Nomex gloves after Centurion approval.

As far as I know AM is still in business, Brian. I just sent Dale (AM owner) an email to ask if there is an alternative address, and will post the reply on here for you.

My apologies for the delay, but I am still waiting on Mike's name to be added to the program I use to generate these. Thanks for your patience!

My apologies for the delay, but I am still waiting on Mike's name to be added to the program I use to generate these. Thanks for your patience!

Sorry for the delay, but I am still waiting on Christine's name to be added to the program that produces these. Thanks for your patience!

GREAT to hear that you are aiming for Centurion!! In addition to what has been mentioned, for L3 you will need to change out the lower ear screws. For some strange reason Anovos uses the correct (slotted, flat topped countersunk) type on the top 2 but not the bottoms. As Glen mentioned, the Hovi tip screens in the photo are not too clear, but as seen in the above images the mesh should be of the wide type. I would also highly suggest painting the interior white. (). I know you haven't got to this part yet, but the Anovos supplied canvas belts (unless they have changed them) were saggy due to no interior support system, and also came with 4 rivets attaching the holster (Hero style). If it did indeed come this way, for level 3 the belt will need to be replaced, as it will need to be rigid and can not have any extra holes (even if they are patched). (). My last suggestion would be to take the Velcro strapping system they supply and toss it. Velcro can (and will) lose it's connective properties over time after repeated use, so I would go with the snap connections. Better yet, use the double snap system. This is what I and many others use, and although it takes a bit of extra time and supplies, you can rest assured that no connections will fail. Ever. If you need more info. on that just PM me.

I agree with the 2 piece scenario. It can be difficult to "answer the call of nature" while suited up, so having them separate makes life easier. (trust me, lol). There are a ton of options out there, and compression tops/bottoms can get pricey. I would suggest going to Amazon, who I have found have among the least expensive. Just search "Men's compression shirt black" or "Men's compression pants black" and you will see what is offered. Here are 2 as an example: Shirt- https://www.amazon.com/ATHLIO-AO-BLS01-BLK_X-Large-Compression-Baselayer-Athletic/dp/B07JPDP4X5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2KS7QYY9XEBXV&keywords=SILKWORLD+Men's+Long-Sleeve+Compression+Shirt+Base-Layer+Running+Top&qid=1642370946&sprefix=silkworld+men's+long-sleeve+compression+shirt+base-layer+running+top%2Caps%2C289&sr=8-4 Pants- https://www.amazon.com/Compression-Baselayer-Underwear-Weather-Thermal/dp/B07HWQVVTW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=ZAB4ASHD8YY2&keywords=men+compression+pants+black&qid=1554455688&s=gateway&sprefix=men+compression+pantst+black%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-7 Just make sure there are no visible logos that may show while wearing your armor.

I would highly suggest losing that return edge around the area below and making the "scoop" larger as seen below. You will have your arms bent most of the time carrying your E-11, and it can will dig into you ("armor bite"). This is something you want to do before final fitting.

In a perfect world, the paint on the ab-buttons could be a bit smaller, (note in the reference photo that the entire button is not painted) and the small button plate trimmed a bit more but these will not hold you back from the higher levels. GREAT work on that bucket!!

The inside of the thigh is the main one I would be concerned about. The final test will be during (or after) your first troop while wearing/walking in the armor for a bit. Many of us find that there are little tweaks here and there to make it more comfortable, and you may find that little or no trimming is required! That was just a heads-up if you hadn't glued the backs yet, so I wouldn't worry about it for now.

Not to be "indelicate" here, but if you haven't glued the backs of the thighs yet I would suggest removing the return edge in the area shown below and then resizing them. Consider that you will be doing quite a bit of walking, and in doing so the lower part of the ab and the cod may apply pressure to those return edges (especially in the center) which can cause serious chafing. Just a heads-up.

No problem! I corrected the title of your thread to reflect Stunt, and I will remove the post I made. By the way, REALLY nice job on the ear alignment! I know that can often be an issue with Anovos buckets, did you change it?

I would leave as much of the length as you can. "ONE IMPORTANT QUESTION!!!!! Before I trim the shoulder bells, should I have the chest and back pieces put together and see how the shoulder bell will look/fit?" It couldn't hurt, but since the Walt's bells look wider than the RS bells (a good thing) you should have no problems. The main points you want are to have the tops of the bells sit next to (or very close to) the shoulder bridges and make sure that they rides close to the bicep as seen below. Otherwise you can get that "linebacker" look, lol. You can trim off as much of the return edges on the bottom as you like (or need to) as noted in the reference image below: Lastly, note that Walt's bells have the signature "swoop" on the bottom of the ridge. These should face forward, but is not a requirement at any level. Yours Reference image Screen capture

Looking good so far, sir. If I could offer one piece of advice, it would be to post photos of most areas before final fitting/gluing. This especially important for areas like the forearms, biceps and thigh tops, and here is why: Although many troopers like the "thicker" look of some armor pieces and choose to keep a lot of the return edges intact, I am not a fan of them in most areas. What I have seen many times is this scenario- The edges are kept on on the thigh tops (or forearms/biceps). After wearing it a time or two they find that the edges dig into or chafe the bejeezus out of them. But, if they are removed afterward they are way too loose. The original armor had most of them removed, as seen in the pics below. Note how the tops of your RS thighs are, and follow that for your present build. Just something to keep in mind. Keep the photos coming!

Never a bore, Jonathan! Starting a build thread was an excellent idea, and something that I always recommend for new builders. We are here to help, so never be shy about asking questions, and now that you can post photos easier we expect to see a LOT of them! They really are worth a thousand words. Have you received your basic 501st approval/TK I.D.? If so, I would suggest going to the link below to gain Legion Access here at the FISD: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ This will open up a lot of new forums on the main page and give you access to areas that you can't see now. Hopefully you are considering aiming for the higher levels (EI and Centurion) with your build to take it closer to screen accuracy. This is much easier to do during rather than after, but be aware that some of the CRLs will be changing shortly so keep that it mind. They will be listed in a post coming up soon. Take your time, and best of luck on your build!