justjoseph63

As a few of you may know, I semi-retired, sold my house and bought a new 5th wheel to hit the road! Finally got my "TK man-cave" organized, but needless to say at 10 ft x 8 ft. it's tiny! While it's probably what most might would definitely consider TK overkill, it makes me happy so I thought I'd share a few pics.

Those tube stripes should ideally be a Proximal Phalanx (finger bone) distance away from the upper mandible.

こんにちは。私たちはあなたのアプリケーションを前進させるために要求された写真をまだ必要としています。 以下に必要な写真の例をいくつか含めます。ありがとうございました！ 日本語は私の母国語ではないので、私の間違いを許してください。 1 .鎧の後部、あなたのそばで武装します。 2. アクション 3. タラ/後部接続 4.インテリアストラップ 5. TDの裏側 6. ネックシール 7. Hovi-tip / vocoderの詳細 8. 左側のブラスター 9. 右側のブラスター

Not to worry, Nick. Even though the ridges don't match perfectly at the join you are not that far off. One thing I would suggest to make the gaps a lot less noticeable is to cut some scrap ABS and glue it behind them (photo 1). If you want to go a step further you can also fill them with ABS paste. This would take some effort, but the finished look would be much better. In the second photo (screen used thigh) you can see how although the bottoms are not even, the gap has been filled making it a lot less noticeable. Nice job on those cover strips!

Looking at the recessed Hovi-tip screen as well as the top and bottom of the (separate) vocoder it's SDS.

Sounds like that will be the experience of a lifetime, but it's not going to be inexpensive that's for sure (depending on where you stay). The Mouse has a lot of hotels, most of which start at over $200. and go to over $2.400. (Yes, that's per night). I read that the "immersive" SW resort hotel will cost (seriously) well over $1000.00 per night, and you can bet it will stay packed. The cool thing about this package is that you get to explore the areas without thirty or forty thousand others at the same time!

I'm with Q on this one. "Off white" is one thing, but it appears that is bordering on beige.

I was going to suggest that as well. In your EI submission photos the wrists look like the return edge still needs to be removed in the "hump". 2 minutes with a Dremel tool and you will be golden!

As long as it is posted in this thread you are good to go, sir! NICE JOB!

It sounds as if they may be a bit tight, JC. I love my Imperial boots, but I always suggest that those ordering them get a full or at least half size larger than they normally wear as they run a bit small. This also allows for the addition of comfort insoles (like Dr, Scholls). While not in use, I keep shoe stretchers in my boots to keep them in shape:

Really nice overall job on this build, Mario! For level 2, you will probably be asked by the D.O.s to remove some of the paint on the teeth of your frown. As stated in the CRLs for Basic approval: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Reference images At some point you will also need to extend the frown a little further (as shown in blue in the photo). A super easy fix which should take just a few minutes. There are a few other items (especially for level 3) that the D.O. staff will go into detail about, but I have every confidence that you can go the distance, Side note: Outstanding job on your tube stripe positioning, and those ab/kidney connections are PERFECT... Well done!!

Use ABS for that, Andrew, BUT... as Tony suggested they could use a hot water bath to give them more of an arc first. If you decide to do that, bend the reinforcing strips to the same exact shape before attaching them underneath. If you don't, the reinforcing strip will straighten them back to their original shape. If you decide to paint or use Plasti-Dip inside your bucket, I would highly recommend the following: Sand the interior using 120 (or so) grit sand paper first and then clean it thoroughly. This will give whatever product you use something to better adhere to. The reason being is that if you decide to attach anything inside (fans, battery packs etc.) using Velcro it will not peel off the product nearly as easy when you want to move (or remove) it. If you decide to use Plasti-Dip (a rubber-like coating) it will smell awful for a day or two but will dissipate after that.

Just wishing I could jump like that in armor!

I just noticed this Trooper in a group photo in @Pyrates Hall of Fame thread and it caught my eye... Not sure who it is, and I realize that they are jumping (not an easy feat, I'm sure) but it just struck me as odd, especially with the placement of the DLT-19s underneath. Strange, but cool at the same time.

There are no stupid questions here on the FISD, Dan, and that is actually a great one! I'm not sure what area your home base/local Garrison is, but that is the one you will use to submit your armor for basic 501st approval. Once you are ready to submit, contact their GML (Garrison Membership Liaison) and he/she will explain the procedure. After you are approved, you will be welcome to troop with any Garrison, Squad or Outpost you like. When I was in the Florida Garrison, we had visiting troopers from all over FL (including Canada, Australia etc.) at events. Note that you may need to sign up at the Garrisons that you want to troop with, as many do not list their upcoming events for the public to see. You will also need to sign up for any troop that you want to be included in. Here is a thread that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39382-your-first-troop-a-few-tips/

Try @sskunky. He is located in the UK but has a U.S. distributor.

Nice job on this armor, John.. always great to see another Hero headed for EI! There are a few issues that will not affect your EI approval, but will need to be addressed before you apply for level 3. The D.O.s will give you more information on those. One of the things that I noticed is that you have a pretty large gap between your shoulder bells and chest plate. You did the absolute correct thing in removing all the return edges on the bottoms (screen accurate), but it looks like the curve is too tight (photo 1). This is also causing the bells to not sit flush with the bicep (see reference image below). You can use a hot water bath to gently re-shape the bells to give them more of a flare (photo 2). This will allow them to sit closer to the bicep and reduce that gap quite a bit. You should also tighten up the connection on the shoulder bridge/shoulder bell connection on the right (the left one is perfect) which will help as well. If you need any info. on how to do a hot water bath, just PM me. Reference image You may also be asked to add a photo of your abdomen armor showing the snap on the top right side (known as the "Han" snap). This should be silver/chrome in color with the inside of the snap facing outward. One quick item that will not affect approval (but you may want to do) is remove the small bit of ABS at the top of your right thigh. The reason being is that it can snag on your under suit. It should also stop it poking into you while you walk, lol. 30 seconds with a Dremel would solve this quickly! Overall a sharp looking set of armor, John, and I expect to see an Expert Infantry badge under you name soon!

That depends on what kind of car you have:

wiseguy...

I actually glued the elastic that holds the drop boxes directly onto my Stunt and Hero belts, no loops. If the tops of the boxes are snug (barely touching) the bottom of the ABS belt, they shouldn't flop around too much. The way you have it shown (below) would make any Centurion proud!

Looking GREAT, Simon! The connections (highlighted in blue below) are absolutely spot-on.... NICE JOB! I would recommend raising your ABS belt, though (trust me). The top should cover the bottom of the ab button plate. In a few of your photos the drop boxes are in the proper position, but as seen below there needs to be a minimal (or no) gap between the tops and the bottom of the ABS belt, and the outer edge needs to align with the outside edge of the ABS belt. Keep up the fantastic work, Simon. At this rate you'll have no problems reaching Basic approval, then it's on to Expert Infantry and then Centurion!

I used a single snap on all my connections during my first build, and on on my first troop one of the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connections came apart, as well as one of my ab/kidney connecting snaps. Kind of embarrassing to say the least. After that, I removed all the snaps and changed to the "double snap" method, which is basically using 2 at every connection as seen in the photo above. It costs more at the beginning because of the extra supplies, but I haven't had any "wardrobe malfunctions" since. Here is a tutorial I have which may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/

That is a question for the ages, my friend. When I figure it out I'll let you know.

OOOOHHHH. I did that before I left the Mosquito Humidity Tourist Retiree Sunshine State, lol, so I am in good shape!