justjoseph63

This is definitely an AM kit. I have pics of the new resculptured aluminum molds Dale made a few years ago, and these match perfectly and are clean, sharp pulls. The HIPS chest and back in the background are recasts of this armor, though. This gives me pause. As mentioned, not knowing how it was constructed is a red flag. If CA glue was used you can forget about altering it for the most part.

Wow, EXCELLENT job on painting those ab-plate buttons!

That's the way it was done in the films, and you can certainly do it if you like... BUT, those were not really meant for long-term use. Elastic will wear and stretch out over time, so I suggest attaching them using snaps. That way, you can replace the elastic as needed in the future instead of trying to peel it off the armor. I also suggest using snap/strap connection for all areas.

I have had a LOT of experience gluing hand guards to gloves, lol. I have experimented with CA (super) glue, rubber cement, and even Elmer's. The one that I found that works the best (pardon the pun) hands down is good ol' E-6000. CA glue can (and will) get brittle over time, and can peel off. E-6000 has the bonding and flexibility that I found works best. After scuffing up and them thoroughly cleaning/drying the rubber gloves, apply it just to the back of the hand guards. Smear it around evenly, making sure not to go too heavy near the edges. Lay the gloves flat, place the guards in the correct positions and then add a substantial amount of weight on top of each. (Several pounds). Wait 12-24 hours and that should do the trick.

As Tony mentioned, GREAT job so far.. keep it up, and and this rate you will be trooping before you know it! If you haven't been there yet, I would highly recommend checking out the FISD blaster reference thread. TONS of detailed info there.. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ Also, it looks as if you have been bitten by the "accuracy bug". Before starting on your Doopydoos E-11, I would suggest getting one of Tino's @T-Jayfinishing kits. Lots of items to bring you to the next levels of realism. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

If you ever have a question on how something should ideally look, Eric, always feel free to either post up a pic of the item in question and I assure you that you will get the correct answer here on the FISD.

It's all a learning curve, John. I think I made more mistakes on my first build than 90% of the troopers out there, lol. Keep up the great work!!

I would try AM ( [email protected]) or AP ( authenticprops@hotmail.com). Both of these makers are tried and true, and their armor should fit the larger/taller trooper with no problems. Both have great reputations for communication and customer service.

Unless you made these really loose, you may have a problem with them cutting into you while having your arm bent ("armor bite"). If you choose to remove the return edge as shown, I would do it before gluing, otherwise they will be too loose. As everyone here knows, I am not a fan of return edges, and not having them will not affect approval at any level. Just my 2 cents worth. Reference images (Note lack of edges on forearms, biceps and shoulder bells).

I wear my grappling hook box in lieu of a TD (in the center of the back), but always wondered why a TK stationed on the Death Star actually needed one, lol.

The rivets on the thigh ammo pack must be either 5/16ths head split (bifurcated) or single cap type, painted white.

Daniel is absolutely right, Sergio. You should cut all the return edges off of the wrist end as shown on the second photo, and note in the photo below that the return edges have also been mostly removed from the top part as well. Doing this will give them more flexibility, allow for a better curvature which will help take any stress off the seam. If you have any spare scraps from your build, KEEP THEM. You can use them as interior cover strips to reinforce the joins. Doing this on the forearms is not so important as doing it on the calves, which get a workout from being open and closed all the time while suiting up. Interior cover strips don't have to look good. They are not seen and will not affect approval at any level. As Daniel also suggested, starting a build thread is an EXCELLENT idea. We can help answer you questions all in one place, and you can post up photos of any areas you need assistance with. If you do get stuck, always post up a photo before cutting or gluing like you did above. We are here to help!

To quote a certain pet detective, "B-E-A utiful"! Really nice job on those, James!

I had every faith in you, Brendan, and congrats!! I see that you have already applied for Legion access, (perfect) and I hope to continue seeing you around the boards using those mad build skills you have now to help those that need it. "Troopers helping Troopers"!! Next up, EI

Congrats to you, Sara.

I have a list here that shows everything you will need: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ For the TD clips, Tony can hook you up: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32554-fs-screen-accurate-td-belt-clips-with-pan-head-screws/

Welcome, Linz! First, let me say that starting a build thread was a wise move. Please feel free to ask as many questions as you would like (no matter how small) and know that we have your back. Whenever possible, include as many detailed photos as you can (we LOVE photos)... they really are worth a thousand words. Also, if you are in doubt about something, always ask before moving ahead, i.e. cutting or gluing. Another piece of advice I always offer is to take... your....time. I know you want to get out there and get trooping, but rushing things only leads to mistakes. Again, welcome, and I look forward to seeing your progress!

I have 2 sets of Imperial boots, and after countless troops I have had no problems and could not be happier, and these things have been through hell. With Imperial, I suggest ordering a half size larger than you normally wear, as they run a tiny bit on the small side. As for the lower leg armor coming out of place, it's a matter of how you trim the calf (lower leg). The boots should not affect the bottom of the calf at all. A common problem some have is that the boot pops out from under the calf, but this can be prevented by not cutting the bottom too narrow or too short. If you should have that problem, there are a few ways to fix it. Some add Velcro to the bottom of the inside of the calf and at the top of the boots, or you can make stirrup style setups (easy to do). With all the knowledge here at the FISD, we can help you fix any problems you may experience... all ya' gotta do is ask and we have your back.

The 4 inch in the tutorial was just for an example, and I should have clarified that, John. I use the 4 inch length on my side kidney to ab connections, which gives a little room to work with while snapping them together. The other strap lengths can (and should in this case) be shorter as needed. This is actually a pretty straightforward fix, though. Just cut the strap as seen below and insert 2 new male sides, that way you don't have to remove the bases that have been glued to your armor.

I also have never heard of E-6000 reacting to ABS, and unlike CA (super) glue it does not heat up while curing. If I didn't know any better, I would say that the clamps you used to hold it on while the glue dried were really tight and actually made an indentation in the shoulder tab. The only ones I have seen you use are the plastic ones (and the metal ones for the sniper knee) which usually don't have that sort of strength.

Thanks for the updated pics, Jennifer, and really nice job on that armor! Unfortunately, we need one small fix before moving ahead. The actual tips themselves are fine, but the mesh (weave) in your hovi-tip screens is too tight, and as per the CRL for level 2, it must be a wider weave. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips There are a few places to get this, and if you need some sources just PM me. Thanks!

Absolutely. Be SURE to add a substantial amount of weight on top while they dry (at least 12 hours), similar to using clamps/magnets when attaching armor pieces together.

It will not affect your EI submission, but they should have a silver/chrome finish:

Wow, that was QUICK! Thanks, James! Note that at some point before applying for level 3 you will need to remove the black paint from the outside of the posterior plate snaps.

Hi James! Nice work on that armor sir, and thank you for your submission! One of us will be with you shortly, but in the meantime can you post up a few more photos for us? 1. Helmet right side. 2. Cod/posterior plate connection showing the rivet/snaps (inside and out). 3. Action shot with only you in it. 4. Close up of your bottom ear screws. Many thanks!!