justjoseph63

Good call! I wasn't even aware that was necessary... how do I go about that?

Looking sharp, Eddie! You will probably be asked to remove some of the paint from a few of your teeth for level 2 approval. As stated in the CRL for Basic approval, Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. If I may make a couple of other observations that will help you look your best, they would be: You have a pretty large gap between your posterior (butt) plate and kidney. Tightening up the side connections may help reduce this. The paint lines on your vocoder are pretty sharp, but should extend all the way up to cover the raised areas. Easy fix! There are a few other small items to address, but the D.O. staff will go over those with you. On a side note, GREAT to see that you didn't use the Velcro strapping system that came with your kit and went with the classic strapping method and snaps. Nice job, Trooper!

Roger that. Looks like you could take just a hair off of the fronts as seen below to get rid of that tiny ridge. I would suggest using sandpaper instead of a Dremel tool, though, that way you can better control how much is removed. OUTSTANDING job on the bicep/forearm cover strip alignment!!

こんにちは！ D.O.の前 スタッフが申請を進めることができます、あなたはもっといくつかの写真が必要になるでしょう。 1. E-11の左側面図 2. E-11の右側面図 あなたのE-11の背面図 4. TD（Thermal Detonator）の背面からネジを見ます。 5.左側のすべてのリベットを示しているあなたの腹部プレート/腎臓の関係の側面図。 また、私はあなたの投稿のタイトルを修正しました。 どうもありがとうございました！

Really nice work so far, Dan!! I was looking through your photos, and although it's (honestly) not a big deal it appears that your shoulder bells are backward. Some armorers (like RWA) have the "swoop" on the bottom of the side ridges (some don't) and ideally the swoop should face the front. Again, not a biggie, and it won't affect approval at any level but just thought I'd mention it. Keep those photos coming!!

Sae-san, yōkoso! Mōsukoshi shashin ga hitsuyō ni narimasuga, hitsuyōna shashin no risuto wa kochira ni arimasu. E - 11 burasutā no shashin mo fukumeru hitsuyō ga arimasu. EIB no teishutsu o tetsudatte kureru buraian @Bulldog44 matawa Asa @SgtGarand(Nihon no tame no watashucksachi no teikokudaihyō buchō) to renraku o toru koto mo o susume shimasu. Ganbarou! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22604-expert-infantry-application-photo-checklist/

Looks like a small batch of ABS paste is in your future, Andrew. @kman has a great tutorial here if you need it: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ Keep the questions and photos coming!

Oops. My mistake, Brian. I thought those were the wrist openings, but it wont affect approval at any level, though.

I'm a little late to the game, but you will need to shave a bit more off of the "bump" area as seen below: " I left enough room at the wrists to allow for going over gloves/hand guards..." Don't worry about this... the gloves go on after you suit up. Great job so far, Brian! Keep those questions and photos coming!

Done

OK, I am finally settled in and have internet again! (Now I know what the residents of South Park felt like, lol). I have a ton of things to get up to speed on and a pile of PMs to answer, so thanks for bearing with me during my hiatus.

Hi all, As many of you may be aware, I am in the process of moving to South Carolina. Unfortunately, a series of events have caused me to be incommunicado for the last 6 days due to no internet access, so my apologies to those who have PM'd or emailed me in that time. I will get back to you, I promise, and I appreciate your patience! We leave Georgia this morning and will be in our new home by this afternoon , but we will need to get settled for a bit. I will have full internet access (AT LAST) and will be back in business by this time tomorrow and will begin my replies. Again, thanks for bearing with me. Moving is hell, but not being able to go online or check email is worse.

As mentioned, return edges are not needed in many places. Keep in mind that in several places they can actually cause "armor bite", which means that they can cut into you. Some troopers like the "thicker" look return edges give, but I'll sacrifice looks for comfort any day! Areas of concern include the tops of the thighs, tops of the forearms and bottoms (sometimes tops) of the biceps. As Greg noted most of the screen used pieces listed above did not have them, and removing them will not affect approval at any level. BUT, if you decide to remove them (recommended) be sure to do it before final fitting/gluing. Otherwise, the piece will be loose if you do it afterward. I am adding some screen used armor pics below as examples. Lastly, as Glen brought up you will get a lot more help if you post your photos directly on to your thread. I see that you are using imgur, so all you need to to is click on the photo, and when the options list pops up on the right select "Direct Link", copy and paste it right here. Easy peasy. Hope this helps, keep the questions (and photos) coming, and don't be shy about asking all the questions you want! Sides of chest/back Shoulder bell Wrist opening

Sorry for the delay, brother... here you are!! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/32568-centurion.png

Congrats on your BBB day, Derek! Once you get the chance to open it, you will probably have the same feeling most of us did. You will rip into it like a kid Christmas and then realize "Oh crap, I have to put this thing together"! Not to worry... My suggestion would be to start a build thread here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ Yes, there are already a ton of them, but having your own will allow you to post photos of your progress as well as ask as many questions as you like. Walt makes a fantastic set of armor, and there are many who have built them not only to basic approval but to Centurion level, (something to consider). https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/ Know that we are here to help every step of the way, and never be shy about asking for help. It's what we do here on the FISD!

Nice job so far, Jim! If I could make a small suggestion, it would be to sand down the rough edges on the trigger guard and trigger before painting. The reason being is that these areas will get a lot of use simply from inserting your fingers and cause the paint to wear off, showing the white resin underneath. Doopydoos makes a great kit, and before long you will have a blaster you can be proud of!! Keep the photos coming!

You can pick up a set of needle files at Lowe's for about 4 bucks. I found these things to be invaluable for detail work- https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-6-Piece-Needle-File-Set/4777067

Please note that those are prospective changes and not set in stone yet, Eric. It would be a good idea to use them as a reference, though, as you will not be "dinged" if you follow them.

WOW! I agree with Cricket 100%, Fabio! Outstanding job on those updates, brother.. One thing that you will be asked to do for level 3 is to remove the weathering from the T-tracks on your blaster. Since the ones used in the films were made of plastic, they would not have any metallic looking finish to them. A few dabs of black paint and you will be good to go, sir! Reference image Vedo presto un distintivo di Fanteria Esperto sotto il tuo nome!

All you need is either Humbrol or Testor's gloss white in the 1/4 oz. size, available at most craft stores or online. Be sure to get the Enamel as opposed to the Acrylic, though.

All you will need is a small paintbrush and you should be fine, Greg. One thing I would recommend before painting the rivets is to sand and then wipe down the heads first, which will allow the paint to adhere better.

If I could make a suggestion, I would order half a size larger than what you normally wear. Imperial Boots are great but run a tad small.

Just as Dan Mentioned, the FISD Galleries section has a ton of references for trimming: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/ Some troopers like to keep return edges in most places, which gives the armor a "thicker" look, but in reality you have to think about comfort. Return edges left too wide or not removed in the wrong places can cause pinching or chafing (armor bite) after an hour or more of having them on. In the films, most of these were removed, as seen in the photos below. The areas I always recommend removing (if nothing else) are the tops of the thighs, tops (and sometimes bottoms) of the biceps, the tops of the forearms and of course the wrist openings of the forearms as Dan showed. If your shoulder bells sit too far away from the chest or flare out, the bottoms of these can be removed as well. If you are thinking about removing any return edges, it is very important to do this before final fitting/gluing. Otherwise, the piece will be too loose if you decide to do it after. Side note: In case you missed it, if you slide the handle of your bin out (not all the way, though) the lift out box sits right inside the opening. This allows you access to it as well as what is inside the main area. The inside lid is also a cool place to mount you favorite patches (I use double sided Velcro).

Hi Andrew! AP includes flat lenses with the helmet kit. As for the lens type, I have a quick question: Are you going for ANH Stunt or Hero? The reason I ask is that I noticed the TK Laser sword (lightsaber) which is used with Hero armor. If you are indeed doing a Hero build and are aiming for Expert Infantry (and above) you will need the bubble style lenses, remove the center ear screws and cover the holes with ABS paste and modify the ear bumps to 3. If you choose to wear the Laser sword for basic approval (and above) you won't need a holster, though! If you are going for ANH Stunt, the flat lenses included with the kit are fine, but don't wear the Laser sword for your approval photos. As for the neck seal, I have always recommended Darman. They are made to order for your specific neck size and the customer service is awesome: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/

It may also have been that Clinton received it by error. He was acting as an "agent" of sorts, but is no longer involved with AM. If anyone has any trouble getting in touch with them, just PM me.