justjoseph63

Bad news/good news,, Brendan. The bad news is that you will have to wait a bit... as you may be aware basic approvals are on hold until after the elections. The good news is that you should have no problems getting there, and that TK number will be yours before you know it! As we used to say in the service it's a case of "hurry up and wait". There are a few minor issues to go over if when you get ready to apply for EI and then Centurion but nothing major by any means, and I know you have some mad skills so I have every confidence in you! Great job, sir!

Apologies, Caleb. I didn't notice the topic. I would recommend using at least one snap on for the front part. This will keep the top tabs that go in between the ab-button plates in place. In theory, you could use Velcro for the back one, but I would use snaps (at least 2 on each side) for the back side. Putting a strip of Velcro in the center of the rear probably wouldn't hurt.

Not sure what you mean, Caleb, as cover strips are used to cover seams. Are you adding a shim to the kidney? If so, there is a tutorial here (just scroll down a bit to see the explanations/photos): https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30226-side-shims-on-abkidney-help/ If you have photos of the area in question we can better assist you in getting the specific help you need. We are here for ya'!

Hi Siu Kau, and thank you for your EI submission! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of myself and the entire D.O. staff, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves, and will include suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Great looking build overall, sir, but there are a few areas to work on, so let's get started! Starting from the top, the screws on your ears should ideally be closer in line with the rear of the trap above them. We realize that not all helmets can be altered to allow for this, but moving the lower part of the ear back (if possible) this would give a better appearance. Reference images The right shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection (no gap) could not be better, but the left one should be tightened up to match it. Reference image For a little more comfort while walking, we are recommending that you trim down the tops of the thighs in the rear. Reference image The arches at the top of your sniper knee plate could use 2 minutes of "Dremel tool love" by adding more of an angle Reference images We are suggesting that the amount of "brass" weathering currently showing on your scope be toned down quite a bit. A small amount is fine, but this seems to detract from the overall look. Masking off the rest of the blaster and then applying some black spray paint would do wonders. While the paint is still wet you can wipe off a few small areas to reveal a little brass coloring. It may be the photo, but it also looks as if there is weathering on the T-tracks. The screen used ones were made of black plastic and therefore should not have any metallic looking areas. Reference images Centurion Suggestions:In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Your wrist openings are REALLY close, but need to trimmed just a little more. As per the CRL: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Easy fix! Reference image For level 3, the CRL states that hand guards must be "..latex or latex-like...". (Flexible). Reference image (Note curvature) Unfortunately the split rivets are a lot farther from the edges of your ab and kidney plates than they should be, and as per the CRL the center of the rivets need to be "..about 10 mm from the edge." There are 2 ways of accomplishing this: 1. You can remove the rivets, move them closer, and fill the holes with ABS paste. (A lot of work), or, 2. Simply cut the edges of the plates (green lines) to where the rivets are in the correct position and then adjust the strapping. You have an overlap on that side so there is some room to work on that , so option 2 would seem the way to go. Reference image The snap you currently have on the lower tab of the ab plate need to be replaced with a split rivet or brad. CRL: A single split rivet or brad is present on the lower tab of the abdomen armor. Reference image You have a fantastic looking set of armor here sir, and obviously have a great talent for building. Hopefully you will take these suggestions to heart so that the Hong Kong Garrison can have another Centurion in the ranks soon! Great job!

Wow, that was quick! Thanks!

The red mark on the top of the forearm is a good place to remove the end, and the other side of the arm as well (sharp points will poke into you). I would also recommend trimming down the bicep for the same reason:

Thank you for your submission, Mathijs. Before we can move forward, please add the following: 1. Link to EI submission thread 2. Helmet maker 3. Blaster maker Required photos: 1. Neck seal 2. Lens color (backlit) 3. Wrist openings (close-up) 4. Thigh pack details 5. Sniper knee details. 6. Hand guards (showing flexibility) 7. Helmet S-trim Additional photos may be required. Thanks!

Nice work, Pascal! (Don't forget to paint the rivets on the thigh ammo pack).

Bump. Since you will need to wait until after the 19th of Feb., I would recommend those of you who are ready to go for 501st basic approval submit your photos here first: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/191-tk-pre-approvals/ This will allow you to get some constructive/positive feedback and make any corrections if needed, which will make your submission go smoother. Good luck, future troopers!

Perfect, and thanks! Almost done, sir!

Let's see those approval pics!!

Your best bet would be to purchase the foam at a craft store and go the trial and error route using the photo Daniel supplied as a guideline. BUT, I would use foam no thicker than 2 cm. The reason being is that if it's too thick it can cause your bucket to ride too high making it (even more) difficult to see, and also give a "bobble head" effect. I removed the foam from mine because of this, and now only have it on the sides.

Hi Joaquín, and thank you for your EI submission and patience! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of the entire D.O. staff, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. A nice overall build on this armor, sir, but there are a few areas that could use some work to make it look even better! Your brow appears to be a bit high, even for a Stunt trooper. Lowering it a few mm should be pretty easy, and will also expose more of the traps at the top. Reference image Reference image Reference images The paint on the teeth is positioned just right, but is very light and streaky. One more coat would cover them nicely, make them look a wholelot better, and should take less than 5 minutes. Reference images Your biceps are riding higher than they should, leaving a larger than normal gap. Dropping them 15 mm or so would greatly improve the appearance and reduce that gap significantly. Reference images Excellent job on the placement of the clips on your TD, sir. It's not a huge deal but worth mentioning that your screw placement is a little off. Reference image The connection of the thigh ammo pack on the outside is higher than the one on the inside, causing it to sit crooked. It can be arched up or down in the front, but should be consistent on both sides. Reference images Nice work on that E-11, but the Hengstler counter is too far back and should ideally be moved forward about 10 mm. Reference Images From the FISD Blaster reference thread Centurion Suggestions:In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Incredible paint job on those ear bumps, Joaquín, but you need to have one (no more) of the bars painted black. Preferable the rear one. SUPER easy fix!! Reference images Another really easy thing that needs just a few minutes to work on is the drop box alignment on your right side. The left is perfect! Reference image In looking at your overall build, I can see you have the talent to take these suggestions to heart and do a fantastic job, sir! Chalk up another EI for the Spanish Garrison!

Nice work, Mike! One of will be with you shortly, sir.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43831-tk-pre-approval-program-overview/

Thank you for the additional photos, Siu Kau, but we will need a few more for clarification. Please post at least one close-up photo (preferably a side view) of the bottom ear screws, and a close up of your rubber gloves. Thanks!

AM is designed to accommodate larger troopers, but can be effectively cut down to smaller sizes. I am 5' 10 160 lbs and mine fits great.

Fantastic work on the calves and thigh ammo pack, Brendan. Not sure if you were aware, but while getting suited up for a troop you can extend the handle on the bin and the tray fits perfectly inside. This keeps it handy/accessible and still gives you access to your armor inside the bin. Be sure to push the handle in snug after putting it in though. I had my bin for almost 3 months before I figured out I could do this, lol.

No worries, brother. See you at Centurion next!

Hi Adrian! The differences can all be found here in the 501st Costume Reference Library (CRL): http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL

First, congrats, Sven! The strap Tony is referring to is the elastic band that holds down your shoulder strap to the back plate. It should be in a position where it overlaps the tab on the top of the back plate in the area seen below.

As I have mentioned before, you have one incredible build thread going here, Brendan! If I could (yet again) make a few small suggestions, they would be: 1. Trim down the tops of your thighs a bit. Those sharp points will poke into your legs. It will not affect approval, but the thigh ammo pack return edges could be trimmed as well.

Not to worry, Ramiro. There are TK's (even TKCs) of all sizes, and we can help you get approved, brother! The front of your armor actually looks as if it fits pretty well, but it appears as if the back plate could come down quite a bit. Ideally, it should not overlap the kidney as it does now, though. If you drop it down a bit, that would help you better align the kidney and ab plates. You may even be able to trim down the top of the kidney if needed. Shims are always an option, but are not required for basic approval. Note that for basic approval for TKC the chest, back, ab and kidney must each have a flexible white U shaped gasket around them and that the posterior (butt) plate and kidney must be one piece. Keep posting up pics as you progress, follow the CRL as closely as possible, and know that we are here to help!

They are pretty close, and we have to save something for the EI review (hint hint, A.J.).

As for rivets and other hardware, many (if not most) armorers include it, but if you are aiming for the higher levels, some makers send the correct hardware, some do not. Once you get your kit you can compare what is sent to the photos in my Supply List thread. If you need any replacements I sell all those items at my cost, and if you need more that one type of item I give a big discount on shipping.