justjoseph63

I forgot to add that the shoulder bells (as per the CRLs for level 2) should be more rounded at the corners. An EASY fix with 5 minutes and a Dremel tool!

Overall a GREAT job on this TKC armor, Aizenoso! That paint job is truly spectacular, sir, but there are a few issues that I could suggest. Some of these items may or may not affect level 2 approval, but are definitely things to consider for level 3 (which I hope you will be aiming for)! 1. You shoulder bells are sticking out very wide. Ideally they should lay (somewhat) flat against the biceps and probably should be trimmed down. CRL photo Reference images 2. Your ears seem to be way too far forward at the bottoms. The screws should line up with the angle of the rear trapezoid as shown, just as in ANH Stunt and Hero. Reference image 3. Since level 2 is optional, you will be required to have a weapon. The light saber is fine, but it must adhere to the CRLs as follows, and you will need to post clear, close-up photos of it before the D.O.s can get started. Lightsaber The hilt is Graflex style or has the characteristics of the Graflex, (reference Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from ANH and ESB). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow. Note: Double blades, small Yoda style lightsaber, or inexpensive non-FX Hasbro Lightsaber toys are not allowed. I have every confidence that you can do this, sir, and I look forward to welcoming you to the rank of Expert Infantry TKC!!

Shimming only the kidney plate is actually what you should do, Stuart. Rivets on the ab/kidney plates are not a requirement for level 2, but for level 3 they are and must be 10 mm from the edge. Since you will need to shim the kidney anyway for level 2, I would move them to the shim. Taking them off is really not that difficult.... just pry up the "legs" of the rivet (slowly, as not to snap them), use a pair of pliers to straighten them and then pop them out. You will have some holes, of course, but these can be filled with ABS paste.

I personally would echo the above opinions and go with ABS, which is what most of us have. It's not as hard to trim as you may think, and (depending on the thickness) it will hold up for a very, very long time. My Stunt and HWT armor are AM and I have put them though hell and back on countless troops with no cracks or issues. My Anovos (Hero) armor is a lot thinner, and even after a few troops it started developing cracks and splits which I had to patch/repair.

The one without the hole does look a bit wide, but perfect idea from Glen about using the permanent markers for the ear bumps, Jennifer. Note that it was normally the rear bump that had the stripe but there were several that had it in various places If you are (hopefully) aiming for level 3, there can only be one. AWESOME job on that ear alignment! The way you have the screws lined up with the rear trap is danged near perfect! You may want to drop it down just a hair to where the top is in line with the bottom of the brow trim.

Have you contacted Walt about that? He is a great guy to deal with and hopefully you can get this sorted out.

That may be a bit much for a Heavy Weapons Trooper, but I admire your zeal! As they say, sometimes less is more... As per the CRL for level 2 (and Basic in my opinion) the armor and bucket should be .."lightly scuffed (battle worn) but not weathered like a Sandtrooper". Here are some examples: joshsurf TK 27726 Templar726 TK 72627 justjoseph63 (me) TK 10973

Hi Ardeshir, and congrats on your second EI! Unfortunately, we don't have separate certificates for each costume (Stunt, Hero, etc.) Only one is issued per Trooper TK ID #, but you are more than welcome to make a copy of the one I issued on June 13th.

Way to go Greg!! Fantastic to hear that you are aiming for the higher levels, and we are here for any help you may need on that, brother. As Glen (Q) mentioned, "Pass on what you have learned". Now that you have been through the trials and tribulations of building a set of armor and being approved, you are now a part of the FISD family, so we look forward to seeing you stay active on the boards and passing on that knowledge!

While I admire the fact that you did a LOT of work cutting those templates out and painting them on,and the positioning is spot-on (about a pencil width from the cheek), I'm not sure they will pass at basic, Jennifer. That will depend on your Garrison's GML. Some are sticklers for details, others not so much. If they don't, there is an alternative, and this would be my suggestion: 1. Using some NON ACETONE paint remover, gently remove the paint. (This is not as hard as you may think). 2. Order a set of templates from Trooperbay (well worth the money): https://trooperbay.com/trooper-tubestripe-masking-templates 3. Position them so that the front stripe is the one that leans forward as seen below: Reference images 4. You mentioned that you had some "bleed through" around the edges. To prevent this, first hit them with a thin coat of WHITE paint first (this will help seal the edges) and let it dry for 15 minutes or so. 5. Apply the blue as needed. DONE! I know a lot of these details can seem frustrating (believe me, lol) but hang in there. You are doing a great job so far and I have every faith that you will have that TK # soon, so keep those photos and questions coming!

Welcome, Austin, and you are doing the exact thing I always recommend, which is asking questions! Although this site can appear a bit overwhelming with all the info available we are here to help guide you through. The link Mario gave you is where you will find many of the answers you need, but always feel free to ask if there is something you can't find. When considering an armorer, the ones in the "vetted" section are tried and true: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Note that depending on your body shape/size, some armorers have variations for taller/larger troopers. It's also important to know who NOT to buy from: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/ Again, we are always available for any advice you need so don't be shy about asking!!

DANGED fine job on that armor, Jennifer! If I could make a few small suggestions, they would be as follows: 1. Trim down the tops of the thighs a bit, There should be a small gap between the tops of them and the cod area as shown: This is a really easy fix with a pair of Lexan scissors and perhaps a Dremel tool. It will give you a greater range of mobility and prevent that "clicking" sound (which you may be experiencing) when you walk. If you opt to do this (suggested) just follow the existing lines when trimming. EXCELLENT job on lining up the back/kidney and especially the posterior/kidney.

Looking AWESOME! Hope you will be weathering that armor as well!

I think "Those that shall not be mentioned" does make a plastic polish, but please allow 24-36 months for delivery.

I gotta' say those are the worst pieces of armor I have ever seen. I can't believe those were even shipped to you! It's not just the strange indentations/wrinkles, but the pull is crazy soft as well.

Not to worry, Erick! I don't think there has been an armor build in history that didn't have some sort of temporary glitch.... it's all in how you deal with it. Sometimes stepping back and taking a day off is the best thing to do. The good news is that using E-6000 was a wise move, and having those gaps will actually save you some time when removing them as you can carefully use an Exacto or razor knife to cut through the glue. It looks as if the glue didn't set completely. Did you wait at least 24 hours? One thing that (again) may help is to remove the return edges at least at the bottom. Having those on does not permit the ABS to flex as much into the oval/round shape you need, and can cause the seams to bow out and the cover strip to not sit tightly. If you decide to re-do the biceps as well, I would remove more of the "scoop" and re-size them before re-gluing which will make them more comfortable. Also, try to get rid of any sharp areas (red circle) which can pinch you or potentially snag on your under suit. Hang in there, sir, and don't let this get you down. Enjoy your day off from your build, and know that we are here for ya' when you are ready to jump back in!

GREAT job, Caleb! I took the liberty of adding a link to this in my "Your First Troop..." thread if that's OK. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39382-your-first-troop-a-few-tips/

Not a problem, Erick! Those on here that know me know that I am not a fan of return edges in most places on armor. As I mentioned above, it looks cool, but at the price (in most cases) of comfort/mobility. The reason you should do it before you glue is that the openings will be too large if you choose to do it afterward. Trust me on this one. You don't want them jangling around on your arms/legs, and it just looks awful. You should be able to fit about 3 fingers between your wrist opening and wrist, and about 3-4 on the top opening and wrist The same goes for the thighs. The originals had no (or very little) return edges on the tops. Keeping those on the tops can lead to some serious chafing, especially in your uh... let's say "cod" area while walking. And the sides of the chest/back plates: I would not recommend using Velcro on your forearms. If you leave just enough room to slide them on your arms you will be good to go. Gloves are put on last, and then tucked into the opening. I'm not saying can't do it, and it may pass Basic approval (depending on your GML) but not higher levels, which I hope you will be aiming for. Keep the questions and photos coming!

Nice job so far, Eric! Something you could think about before gluing the other side of the forearms together is that there is quite a bit of return edge on both ends, and they look a little ragged. Removing it all is not a requirement for Basic approval, but I would suggest trimming them down (before gluing) for 2 reasons: 1. If you will be (hopefully) aiming for level 2 or above, removing all the return edges from the wrist side will be necessary. If you glue it first, when you go to trim them down the openings will be a lot wider. Too wide in most cases. 2. Removing them (at least at the top) will help prevent "armor bite", which is when the edges cut into you while you bend your arms (which will be a LOT). I am including some photos of screen used armor to give you a better idea of what I mean. Reference images Reference images Some folks like the look of return edges, which give the armor a "thicker" look, but depending on the particular piece these can be an issue for some. For instance, trimming all the edge off of the bottom of the shoulder bells will allow them to ride closer to the bicep. Keep up the great work and keep those photos coming!

If you really want to take it to the nth degree, I would suggest on of Tino's completion kits as well. All the cool extras that will give it a more screen accurate look. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

As Q mentioned, E-6000 is pretty easy to remove as opposed to other bonding agents, which is one of the main reasons we use it!. What I did was to use a razor knife and safety gloves (important). Just carefully slice along the line, cutting through the glue a little at a time. Try to angle the blade to where the tip isn't cutting into the calf itself, but rather the back of the cover strip. Should take about 10 minutes or so. If you want to remove the left shoulder bridge this will work as well. Any remaining E-6000 can be removed by rubbing on it with your thumb. I'm sure there are other methods, but that is the way I did it. TAKE YOUR TIME, though. If you have any problems, post up pics before moving ahead. Here is a crude diagram (forgive the odd looking "razor knife", lol, but you get the idea).

WOW! Great job Ivan

In looking over your pics again I did notice a few other items. The first one is a requirement for basic approval, so you have a little work ahead of you. Don't get discouraged, though, I have faith in you! The cover strip on your left rear calf seems to be attached on the wrong side. As per the CRL. "The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg". Your right one is perfect! It appears as if you have several small pieces of Velcro holding it on. I would suggest using one long strip. Hopefully you used E-6000 to glue it on, as that will make it much easier to remove/re-position. Note in the reference photo how the opening is on the inside. Reference image Although thigh ammo packs were all over the place in ANH, yours could stand to come up a bit (at least enough to cover the bottom ridge). You can take it as high as shown, which is not only acceptable at all levels but would also cover the gap at the join. An easy fix with a few dabs of E-6000! Reference image Lastly, your shoulder straps are a little askew. The right one is good to go, but the way the angle sits on the left one is causing it to sit much higher and not flush on the back plate as the right one does. Maybe not a deal-breaker for Basic approval, but something to think about for higher levels and to give you a better look. Reference images I realize that these items (and others mentioned) may seem like a pain, and just when you think you have it nailed along comes all these suggestions. Trust me when I say it's happened to all of us! (My first Basic submission was a disaster, lol). However, you have mad build skills and we are here to help with any issues you want/need to tackle. You are also welcome to PM me if you have any specific issues.

I had the pleasure of meeting you in Tampa a few years ago, but didn't realize at the time that I was standing in the presence of a film legend. On behalf of the countess TKs who continue to purchase and wear your armor design to this day I salute you, and thank you for allowing us to live the dream of actually becoming a living part of the SW family.

Here is my take on this, and I'm glad you brought this up. As per the CRL, the pack is mandatory, as it is not listed in the "Options" area so this can obviously be confusing. While some HWTs have the room to wear a TD, most do not because of the room that a pack takes up on the back. The TD does NOT take the place of a pack. In the past, I have seen those who identify as a HWT simply because they carry a T-21 and have a few pouches. This is NOT a HWT, which is why we changed the CRLs . The argument came up that "Well, not all Sandies wear packs". Well, HWTs are not Sandies. We wear packs. Period. If built to specs, they weigh less than 4-6 pounds, so wearing them for extended periods is no problem. Becoming a Heavy Weapons Trooper is not inexpensive because of the additional costs of the pack build and accessories, but I feel it's worth it. I will be requesting a change in the HWT CRLs to eliminate the TD entirely, so please take note. If there is anything I can do to help you with your HWT build or any questions you may have, please feel free to PM me!!