justjoseph63

即使您在加利福尼亚，也可能要查看香港驻军站点。 我们的亚瑟帝国武官 (giskard8）属于该驻军，他是个伟大的家伙！ https://www.hk501st.com/hk501/actions/YHS-index.html/

Looks like you will be well prepared, Jessy! I always recommend that new builders get all supplies in place well before starting a build. Nothing worse than needing something and having to pause your build to go out and get it or worse yet have to order it! As for nylon or elastic, I would suggest getting both in various sizes, and here is why: Nylon: Good for areas that don't need to flex a lot. Very strong, and will basically last a LONG time. Elastic: Perfect for areas that need to flex, like the bicep/forearm connection. However, depending on how often you wear your costume it can get permanently stretched out over time with use. Hint: If using it, be SURE to fold over the ends at least once and glue them together before attaching a snap, as they can pull out over time with a lot of use. Another thing I always recommend is to use the "double snap" method on all attachments. Yeah, it costs a bit more to do because of the extra supplies, but you will be assured that none of your connections will ever come undone while wearing your costume (wardrobe malfunction). I used single snap connections on my first build, and on my very first troop the shoulder bell snap came loose from the shoulder bridge. Very embarrassing, lol. You can purchase elastic and nylon on eBay in rolls pretty inexpensively, and as mentioned in my snap setting thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/ a cheap ($10-12.00) soldering/woodburning iron will save you a TON of time making the holes. It is also great for sealing the ends of the nylon.

You have the option of removing some of the return edge from the chest (and back) plate or all of it. Anovos armor is famous for cracking in these areas, as well as the in the neck openings. Whether you opt to remove some or all of it, I suggest adding some inside shims made of scrap ABS in those areas. You can remove all of them and still be screen accurate: (Note lack of return edge on the top of the kidneys as well). Reference images

One thing I would suggest is to fill the pouches with something lightweight like foam board to "fill them out". Otherwise they look sorta' flat. You can even use an old Styrofoam cooler... just use a razor knife to cut it into strips that fill the pouches and them wrap each strip in black electrical tape.

I replaced a ton of parts on my last DD kit with aluminum pieces (including the folding stock, magazine well, front and rear ends, etc,) from a seller on eBay. Everything fit like a glove! https://www.ebay.com/itm/E11-STERLING-REPLICA-BLASTER-STOCK-ASSEMBLY/282798500837?hash=item41d81aabe5:g:MyUAAOSwjIVaT6Z3

So when does the build begin, Glen? I have 50 bucks that says you will have one of these by next year...

Cool! As long as they look like leather you are good to go. Can you provide a link to the source? This could help those who are looking for them. Thanks!

There are 2 things I would suggest, Asjha.. First is to tighten up the shoulder bridge/shoulder bell connection, which will bring it in closer and reduce the gap. Second is to trim off the raised parts of the forearm. You are probably finding that when you bend your arm that those raised edges (in blue) are poking into you, so evening them out would give you a nice gap without having to shorten the actual forearm and also make them more comfortable. Note that many of the "scoops" (the curved part of the opening at the inside top) extended all the way to the edge of the cover strip.

I used the Popit! food storage containers I found on Amazon (about 20 bucks). The set has all the sizes you will need, but you will have few left over to use at home. Just be sure to trim off ALL the raised edges from them. Heavy duty plastic "For Sale" signs are used to close in the backs. If you have any questions, just ask here or feel free to PM me!

Welcome, Don! I would suggest starting a build thread, https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ that way you can ask all the questions you need to and post up lots of photos... (we LOVE photos)! Can you post a pic of the (TK) Caboots? I would like to check them out. Thanks!!

MUCH!

It is not a requirement at any level for HWT, Derek. Yes, they were pictured the game (which this costume is based on) but they were sort of semi-circular in shape. Requiring one like that is impractical, just as wearing one is with the pack as you mentioned. There are a few HWTs who can wear one (mostly taller troopers), but I would omit it.

Absolutely, Ian, and congrats on your TLJ basic approval! As long as it meets the guideline set forth in the CRL for level 2 http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_TLJ you can submit it whenever you like! Here is a link to the thread, just follow the format for the title: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/ You may want to look over Q's (gmphodes) outstanding TLJ EI submission thread here to give an idea of what will be required: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43842-tk85421-requesting-tlj-eib-status-anovos-approved/ Having clear, concise photos will be a huge help. Once you submit, the D.O.s will review your application and make the final approval. Please note that they are volunteers, so this can a few weeks. If you have any questions, feel free to ask! Side note: Work will begin on updating this particular CRL soon. If you get your application in before the new guidelines take effect, you will be "grandfathered in" with the ones that are in place now. BUT.... note that if you (hopefully) choose to submit for Centurion level, you will need to adhere to the requirements in the updated version.

An SDS blaster would not be my first choice, (it's missing the charging handle and I'm not sure if it has a D-ring). For the same money you could get one from Quest Design, which is a lot more realistic looking: https://www.questdesigncanada.com/collections/frontpage/products/star-wars-stormtrooper-e-11-blaster-prop-replica-stormtrooper-v3 If you want to make it even more screen accurate, I would suggest one of Tino's E-11 finishing kits. They are AWESOME! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/ If you enjoy building things yourself you can also go with a resin Doopydoos kit. Be advised that delivery may take a month or so, but they are awesome and can be customized like crazy. https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp

AWESOME tutorial, A.J.! Pinning this one, brother.

What I use is something I ran across at the Dollar Store. I saw a small thing of women's black eyeshadow(?) and thought "Hey, that could work" so I purchased that and something called a "blush brush" there to apply it with. It stays on really well (although it can smear a bit) but can easily be removed if you want to go shiny white TK with a household cleaner like Fantastic. I touch it up a bit every 6-8 troops and it works perfect.

I would echo Andrew's thoughts on Rustoleum. Although it can be a bit pricey, this is what I use for all projects when painting plastic of any sort: If you feel ambitious, I would also suggest sanding down all the surfaces to be painted and them cleaning it thoroughly before applying it. This will rough up the surface a bit and give the paint something to better adhere to.

Absolutely not, so get out there, show off that great build and have some fun!! As Sha Sha mentioned, you will be doing upgrades for months to come. One way to find out what sort of adjustments you will need is to simply walk around your house/yard wearing your armor (and actually trooping, of course). I would suggest not cutting out the entire back at first, but rather do it in stages until it is comfortable. If you haven't trooped yet, I have a thread that will give you a few pointers: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39382-your-first-troop-a-few-tips/

If you really need to trim those, Greg, I would keep the cut lines above the raised ridges (as seen below). You have a super nice build there and hopefully you will be aiming for Expert Infantry and then Centurion. If you cut below them that would eliminate you from even applying. While some of the costumes in ANH had those backs cut out, many did not. (I guess it depended on the individual actor). One thing I would suggest is that you sand the edges really well, which will help them from snagging on your under-suit.

He is not using an original ANH suit and I can guarantee that.... he is a re-caster, plain and simple. He has a reputation of copying other armorer's hard work and passing it off as his own at a cheap price. I can speak of this from personal experience, Chad. Before I was aware of the FISD and 501st, I bought one of his kits. During my research, I came across these sites and found out that because of the differences it was not eligible for even basic approval (the helmet alone is GIGANTIC). I ended up building it anyway (for the experience) and then sold it on eBay as a "Halloween costume". Lesson learned. You get what you pay for.

As Hassan mentioned, priming is the key to paint adhesion. After masking off the hardware (use blue painter's tape), make sure it is super clean and free of dust, etc. Know in advance that it will take several cans of paint, and that it will take some time. Here are some tips: 1. After priming, let it dry for 3-6 hours. 2. Apply the paint in THIN coats. If you put it on too heavy, it will run and cause drips. 3. Although it may seem dry and ready for a second coat, enamel paint needs to "cure" after each coat for durability. Don't be in a hurry. 4. Before removing the painter's tape carefully cut around the edges with an Exacto or razor knife. Otherwise, you run the risk of peeling off the paint from the surrounding areas.

NICE job on this Anovos kit, Andre! You should have no major issues for Level 2, but for level 3 there are a few which the D.O.s will discuss with you. While waiting on your application, I would suggest raising your ABS belt. Reference images I would also recommend posting up photos of your wrist openings and a close-up of the bottom ear screw of your helmet. They will probably ask for these, and it should only take a few minutes. All 3 screws on each ear should all be the countersunk flat headed slotted type. For some reason Anovos uses the correct ones for the top two but not the bottom ones. Reference images From a comfort and aesthetic standpoint, I would also suggest the following: Trimming down that point at the top of your forearm will not only look better, but it will help keep it from snagging on your under-suit and poking into you. Reference images You may want to think about cutting down the back of the thigh tops. It will also keep those sharp points from snagging your under-suit as well as give you a little more mobility. If they "click" when you walk you will know what I mean. Reference images See you Expert infantry soon!!

Many (if not most) of us use a 50 gallon tool box like this:--------------- Tons of room, and you can fit your entire kit (and helmet) inside.

OUTSTANDING, and a big congrats, brother! If there is anything we can do to help with your jouncy towards your Expert Infantry badge (and beyond) just let us know!!