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TKModder421

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About TKModder421

  • Rank
    Sergeant
  • Birthday May 6

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah
  • Interests
    I'm a computer science major, but I've found a lot of interest in Star Wars costuming and armor building lately.

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  • Name
    Greg

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  1. Alright, I'm ready to move on. I was thinking I better wait to build the shins until I've got boots that I can do a test fit with So I'm gonna start working on the abdomen. On my initial fit tests of the abdomen and kidney plate you can see how oval the two are. This makes them fit fine front to back, but it gives me a decent gap on each side. Looking at reference pics I can see the abdomens look much more tubular and form fitting around the abdomen. So I'm wondering what direction I should take with this. Do I trim and hot bath the shape to be more round and form fitting? Or is this just normal? Pushed to my right side with still 2 fingers width, I have a significant gap on the other side
  2. Oh forgot to ask, if there is a particular white paint I should be using?
  3. I went ahead and attached the ammo pack to the right thigh, after which I realized I should've painted the rivets first I won't make that mistake with the rivets on the abdomen and kidney piece
  4. Next, the back... I followed James advice and glued on half the strip first because of the curve of the two pieces where they butt. After letting them set for a day I attached the other half
  5. To fix the cover strip on the right side, I ripped it off and rubbed all the E6000 off the strip and the thigh. I didn't take a pic but I used painters tape in addition to the clamps and magnets to really hold down the cover strip and in place to conform to the curve of the ridge. Here's after I got the tape and most of the E6000 mess off
  6. So I did a 2nd pass. Slipped a couple times and there's a couple spots where -once you brush it, there's no going back-, and you just gotta make it work somehow. But overall I like the way it turned out with the dry brushing of the silver. I also decided to paint the ejection port with the same silver - one of those moments I mentioned before - so I just painted it all in. Not sure what else to do with it. Eventually I'd like to clear coat it to prevent the paint from being worn, since I plan on using it as my cheap blaster for troops. What type of clear coat do you all think I should use? I'd like to keep it similar to how it looks now. Not planning on using gloss right? I don't want it to look wet. So should I do matte clear coat? I've even seen satin? Anyway, let me know what you think. Any suggestions for weathering, the ejection port or anything further are welcome.
  7. Overall, I like how it looks after being painted, but it looks too nice, it still pretty much looks like a plastic toy. It doesn't look very realistic just as is, so thanks to Shane from Alpine Garrison's advice I'm going to do some silver/metallic dry brushing to give it some wear and tear. Make it look used! Which is definitely one of the classic charms of the Star Wars universe. So I started by looking up some tutorial video's on dry brushing and prop weathering. This one was extremely useful. So after watching some videos I decided to give it a go. I had some Tamiya Mica Silver spray paint left over from my Shadowtrooper mod so I just used that. I just sprayed some into the cap and used that since I only needed very small amounts. I followed some of the dry brushing techniques they discuss in the vid above and did a first pass.
  8. I didn't do a great job of documenting this mod/build. I managed to not take any pics of my painting or gluing process but after I painted the original blaster and all the individual conversion kit pieces with a flat black Rust-oleum rattle can, I glued them onto the blaster with E6000 and held them in place with rubber bands and painters tape. Then after the glue dried I did another couple of passes of black I think I could've done a better job on the screwhole-epoxy job. Oh well...
  9. That's what I've heard of other local troopers doing as well, so I thought it would be fun and a good build experience. Good luck on yours!
  10. So previously I had trimmed and sanded the pieces that Doopydoos sent me. Unfortunately I didn't document any of that, but some needed a fair amount of work. And I feel now that I probably could've cleaned them up a bit more, but they're decent enough for a toy conversion, so I think I'll stick with what I've got for now. Moving on... So I started gluing the the magazine well onto the blaster body (the magazine wasn't being glued in yet) Then I realized that I didn't want to worry about white showing up in gaps between the kit pieces and the base blaster, so I decided to paint all the pieces and the blaster body before I proceeded with gluing. So I carved out some plastic on that center bar in the nozzle and tucked in the LED a bit further. And then proceeded to (sloppily) paint the inside of the muzzle black I also filled in the screw holes with epoxy and sanded them down
  11. So I watched a couple YouTube vids about the conversion and they all start with sawing off the tip of the muzzle and the front of the scope to replace them with more accurate pieces. So I sawed 'em right off! I left the red LED and ended up tucking it in a bit further so it would light up inside the muzzle if I wanted to install batteries. And then proceeded to cut off the front of the scope as well
  12. I recently recovered my son's Disneyland E11 blaster that he was about to sell in a garage sale and decided to mod it with a Doopydoo's conversion kit to make it a little more accurate looking and use it as my initial trooping blaster. Eventually I'd like to do a full kit and do an accurate ANH build, preferably one with a working folding stock, inner bolt and ejection port. But in the meantime I wanted to post what I had done with this conversion. Here we go... Here's the toy my son was getting rid of
  13. Good to know! Definitely applicable towards me, having skinny legs as well. Fill the gap? Such as adding some foam padding?
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