justjoseph63

Remember being a kid at Christmas, tearing into those gifts like there was no tomorrow? This is sort of the same thing. At first you think "Oh wow!" But now, it seems like "Oh Crap... I have to put this thing together? lol. Not to worry, though. You have an entire Detachment here to help you out every step of the way, Kris. You did the right thing by starting your own build thread, and we are here to help! Be sure to ask any and all questions you have (no matter how small) and post as many photos as you can during your build. When in doubt, ask first before cutting or gluing. Also, remember that building this kit will be more of a marathon than a sprint. In other words, DON'T RUSH! Take your time, do your research, and if there is an issue all you have to do is ask us and we will be there for you. "Troopers helping (future) Troopers!

Really nice job on this ATA kit, Peter, and I see an official TK number in your future soon! Whether you are aiming for basic or higher levels, in addition to what has already been mentioned I would suggest the following to make this set of armor look it's best: 1. The ABS belt could definitely stand to come up some more. Ideally the top should cover the bottom of the ab-button plate. The drop boxes should align UNDER the ABS belt. This one may hold you up on basic approval. Easy to fix those by lengthening and adjusting the straps. The outer edges of the drop box should align with the outer edge of the ABS belt. Reference images Your biceps are twisted out. The "thumbprint" should be on the inside. Reference images The following items will not affect your basic approval, but are just recommendations... 1. Your shoulder bells are on backward. As noted in the photo, the "swoop" should face forward. Not a biggie, but more of a heads-up. Also, removing the return edge from the bottoms of the shoulder bells (screen accurate) will allow them to ride closer to your biceps, which will help to eliminate the gaps between your shoulder bells and chest plate. Reference images 2. Some Troopers like the look of return edges which make the armor look thicker, but if you want to go for a more screen accurate look there were none on the originals. Again, no biggie, it's just a matter of taste. Reference images Speaking of return edges, I noticed that you still have some on your upper thighs. This will not affect approval at any level, but you may find that they cut into your thighs while walking and those sharp points can snag on your under suit. 2 minutes with a Dremel tool would smooth them out and make them more comfortable. Reference image These are just suggestions, and you can opt to address them or not. You did a fantastic job on this kit. and I look forward to welcoming you to the FISD as an official Stormtrooper!!

Congrats on your approval, Derek! Now that you are good to go, you are fortunate enough to be in Makaze Squad territory (my last Squad). They have well over 200+ troops a year there. so you have the opportunity to attend a ton of events. If when you meet Gary senior (or junior) please give them my best. One thing I would suggest is applying for Legion Access here at the FISD. It;s easy to do, and it will open up many new areas here that you can check out. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

Like these Troopers did:

If I could make one small suggestion, it would be this: After applying the decals and pressing them down firmly, hit the edges with a tiny bit of white paint first and let it dry for 10 minutes or so before applying the blue.. The reason for this is that if there are any tiny gaps where the decal is attached, the white will fill them and the edges of the blue will come out clean and crisp without bleed through.

Sarah is spot-on about those gaps, so you are golden. I gotta' say you did a spectacular job with the ear placement revision and counter-sinking the bottom screws, Mark. WOW! Many would have just let it go, but you really went above and beyond, sir, and for that I salute you. I can see no problems with this when you apply for EI and then Centurion.... GREAT job! Keep those photos and questions coming... can't wait to see whats up next!

Way to go, Joaquin! Welcome to the rank of Centurion, brother

You are correct on those AP submissions, and as mentioned it's not the biggest of deals so it shouldn't affect Centurion status as it is just the way they are made. I can't say I blame you for not wanting to drill extra holes as it can weaken the area if they are too close together, but if you do decide to do it I would suggest gluing on a small ABS patch inside to strengthen the area before drilling. You may also want to countersink the bottom ear screw(s) a tiny bit more. It will help the S trim fit tighter in that area. Again, just my OCD kicking in, lol.

Your EI number is 917, and your Centurion number is 439. Hope this helps!

Overall a really nice job on this, Mark!! The only thing that jumped out at me was the difference in the height of the ears in relation to the brow. The right one overlaps it a bit at the top, while the left one sits farther down. Not the biggest of deals by any means (and Heaven knows the originals had their own peccadilloes) but something to consider. I doubt many will notice (except for those with OCD like me, lol). If you do feel up to the challenge of adjusting them, you could also center the tops a bit and bring the bottom(s) back if you have the room without exposing the join. In an ideal world, the screws should line up with the angle of the trap above them and the center of the top of the ear should be right below that. Again, not a huge deal, as many of the originals were far from perfect but just food for thought. Keep up the great work!!

If I could suggest one thing, it would be to give both your pack and armor some light "weathering" for HWT. Although not a requirement for Basic approval, it is for level 2 and above. It's just my opinion, but when I see a HWT with no weathering it looks like they just stepped off a transport ship for the first time with no battle experience, lol. There are quite a few products that can be applied to your armor which can be cleaned off if you want to go regular shiny-white TK. Just remember any weathering should be black, not tan/brown etc. like a Sandie.

You can build your own if you have decent skills and time to do it, and there are some great build threads to check out. The main one I used was Tony's @ukswrath but used a few ideas from my buddy Charles' @Templar726 build as well. Just be sure that you don't add the antenna, as it is no longer acceptable even at basic level. As stated in the CRL http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_hwt, it cannot contain any extra "greeblies" (lights, video monitors, etc.). Tony's thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30034-hwt-backpack-build-part-1/ Charles' thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30222-templars-hwt-pack-build/ If you don't want to build your own, Shawn (@Crookknight) makes some incredible packs, which are 100% approvable at all levels. https://crookknight.com/home

I like this idea, Shawn. Thanks for stepping up! (When are we gonna' get together for lunch)?

こんにちは これについての更新は？ ありがとうございました！

Not sure if anyone has tried Trooperbay's ArmorWhite gel for this particular issue, but it could be worth a go. I have heard several positive comments on it's ability to remove yellow from ABS. I would be interested in seeing if it works on these type of stains. https://trooperbay.com/trooperbay-armorwhite-plastic-whitening-gel

Got the order and will have those in the mail today! ALWAYS feel free to ask any questions you may have, Brad... we are here to help! Great job so far, and as Andrew (Sly11) mentioned, keep the photos coming .

Great to hear that you are considering going HWT, Eriberto! Yes, the CRLs changed a few years ago. The MP40 pouches must be "Leather or leather-like" and can no longer be of the canvas type. Good news/bad news, though... They are available online, but they aren't cheap. Also, you have to order a set, so you are stuck with one extra. (You should be able to sell it pretty quickly either on here or the MEPD site, though). These are about the least expensive sets I've found: eBay If I can be of any help, just let me know via PM!

EXCELLENT job on that Anovos kit, Greg, and I honestly can't see anything holding you back from basic approval. It's obvious you put a lot of care into this build, and it certainly shows! I am guessing you should have your TK number very shortly, and once you do I would suggest applying for Expert Infantry level with this armor. There are a few small details that will need some adjustments, but nothing you can't handle for sure. Here are a few suggestions when you get ready: 1. For a sharper look, the cover strips should line up as seen in the CRL photo. This can be achieved by some simple strapping adjustments. 2. Your ABS belt could stand to come up a bit. Reference images 3. The inside edges of the Hovi mic tip should be white. (Easy fix)!! Reference images There are a few other small items, but you have done a fantastic job on this armor and I am hoping you will consider taking it to the next level!

Awesome! Keep us up to date on the outcome, and if there are any issues we can help ya' take care of them!

Really nice job on this armor, Malco, and great job on making those necessary changes for EI! Since it looks as if you will be headed for Centurion next, I would recommend using ABS paste to fill those seams (necessary for level 3) once you get them aligned like the diagram Sha Sha showed. Making ABS paste is not really that difficult, and the end result will look a lot better once you get it sanded and polished. It's well worth the effort, and if you need any help just ask! Here is a link to a tutorial that may help, and best of luck on your approval! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

I believe those are where the ABS paste was over-mixed a bit too much, allowing air bubbles to get in. Some sanding may take them out, but you may have to fill those with a super thin layer of JB weld and than give them a final sand. Looking GREAT, though... awesome job! Can't wait to see the final product!

Looks a LOT better, Gilbert! For basic approval, although it looks cool you can't have any attachments to the pack As per the CRL for basic: Backpack must be styled after and closely matches the backpack seen in the Battlefront series as seen in reference photos. No video monitors, extra greeblies. lights of any sort or attachments not seen in photos can be visible This includes weapons and the antenna.

As Brien mentioned, Doopydoos (link below) is a great kit. The cost (with shipping) is about $85.00, and you can also upgrade it with one of Tino's finishing kits to bring it to a much higher level of accuracy. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/ https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp Here is a fantastic resource for the build if you decide to go that route: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

The best answer(s) to this question can be found here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

Always fantastic to see another great looking set of AM armor, Robert! There are a few issues that I am sure the Mike will be going over, but overall a nice clean build! As I am sure you will be headed for Centurion next, here are a few items to think about in the time being: 1. The tube stripes on your left side should better match the ones on your right. The left side seems to be arching down in the back. Not the biggest of deals, as many things on ANH TKs were a bit wonky, but something that may have to be addressed. As per the CRL, there should be no return edges on the wrists, especially in the raised ridge. Even the small return edge shown should be taken out. 5 minutes with a Dremel and you will be golden! Reference image I love AM armor... (it's what I mostly troop in) but it has it's little peccadilloes. The edges at the bottom of the back plate tend to flare out like little wings, causing an overlap. @A.J. Hamler has a fantastic tutorial on how to fix em': https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47357-how-to-fixing-the-am-armor-back-plate-overlap-issue/ Hope these help, and see you at level 2 soon!