justjoseph63

In what areas are you getting the armor bites, Helen? Most of us have experienced this, and we can certainly help you get rid of them! Pics would help a lot.

I can't say enough great things about how well you built this armor, Jamie. WOW! Lots of detail work, and the paint on that bucket is brilliant! One thing that kind of stands out though is the sniper knee, which, as per the CRL for EI "...must be aligned with the ridges on the shin". This can be one of the trickiest parts for most people, but you did a fantastic job trimming the bottom. Many people don't remove enough of the return edge there to get it to lie flat against the calf, but you nailed it! But, as I mentioned the alignment is off, which is showing a lot of the top of the calf in front. I would highly suggest removing and re-positioning it. This may seem like a pain, (and it is... kind of) but not doing it will more than likely hold up your EI approval, and we don't want that! As an example (and to compare apples to apples) below (right) is a photo of another trooper's RWA sniper knee. Note how the plate is positioned at a much sharper angle, and how the front is in a straighter line. There is a small gap between the bottom the front of the plate on this trooper's sniper plate, but it allows the ridges to line up correctly. Here are some screen caps that will give you a better idea of what we will be looking for: As for Glen's suggestion to reduce the size of the ab button plate, that would be a MUCH easier fix than you think (I had to do the same thing on my first submission). Hopefully you used E-6000 to glue both it and the sniper knee, which will make the task much easier. Just use a razor knife and carefully slide it under the plate(s) and cut the glue away a bit at a time until it pops off. Should take less than 10-15 minutes to remove both. If you find the glue is too gummy, just pop the piece(s) in the freezer for half an hour. If you decide to do this, when trimming the ab button plate down note that the corners should have no curves. After all the hard graft you put into this armor, I genuinely hope you will take the time to work on these suggestions, brother. You have an outstanding build, and I have every confidence that we will be seeing an EI badge under your name very soon... then on to Centurion! You can do it, and if you need any pointers or help just ask.

Good call on this, Glen.. thanks! The drop boxes are an L3 requirement, Christopher, but following Glen's advice it's an easy fix will get you ready for when that time comes!

Before you do any more trimming, as mentioned I would post some detailed photos. Posting pics is really easy if you use imgur (imgur.com). Here is a link that will help with that: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42381-howto-post-images-in-threads-using-imgur-easy/ To re-size, crop or rotate your photo on there is no problem: 1. Scroll over the photo. That will give it a green outline with a small pencil (edit) and a trashcan (delete) inside. Click on the pencil. 2. Once you do that, the "EDIT" button will appear on the top right, above your pic(s). Click on that, 3. Using the mouse, crop as (or if) needed. Hit APPLY at the top. 4. To re-size, just manually change one of the numbers on the top right of the photo. Example 236 x 364. 5. When you are happy, hit SAVE. This will add it to your Gallery. When ready to post, click on the center of the photo and you will see a dropdown box on the right. I personally use this option: Paste it into your post here on the FISD. Done! NOTE: I have found in most (if not all) cases that if you remove or edit your photo on imgur after posting it somewhere it WILL DISAPPEAR FROM THE POST.

Looking SHARP, Robert! Really nice job on this AP armor, sir, and I see nothing getting in the way of you and your official TK number. It's obvious you put a lot of thought and care into this, and judging from the overall fit and details it looks like you are (hopefully) aiming for EI and then Centurion . I realize I'm jumping the gun a bit, and there are a few small details that will need to be addressed for those levels, but it looks like you the mad build skills to take care of them! One thing I would suggest (for comfort levels if nothing else) is to trim the tops of the forearms . When carrying your E-11 you will spend a lot of time with your arms bent, and those will more than likely poke into you making it mighty uncomfortable. 5 minutes with a Dremel and some sandpaper and you are golden. You may want to raise the ABS belt a bit as well. Reference images Gotta say fantastic work on trimming those ab-button panels... absolute textbook! Again, a super nice job, sir, and looking forward to seeing that TK number under your name.

Hi Christopher, and thanks for your application for EI! SUPER nice job on that ESB build, sir, but there are just a couple of quick things before we can proceed. 1. Can you post a close-up photo showing the bottom part of the frown? (Looking downward, so that we may see the lower parts of the teeth). 2. Although your overall fitment is pretty much good to go, as per the CRL for level 2, "Any gap between the abdomen plate and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" wide". Since holster belt loops are (on average) about 7/8" to one inch wide, comparing that width to the gap on your right side shows that the opening is unfortunately a bit wider than is required for approval. The left side is 100% acceptable for EI as it is, but know in advance that we are hoping you will consider taking this awesome build to Centurion after level 2 approval and for that there can be no gaps. To remedy this you can tighten up the strapping between the ab and kidney (suggested) or consider shimming (a lot more work, but may be more comfortable in the long run). It is also suggested that you line up the tops of the plates at the join more evenly, which can be achieved by raising the ab plate a bit. They don't have to be perfect, but could definitely use some attention. ESB reference images Now it's up to you, brother. I have complete faith that you can reduce (or eliminate) the gap(s), re-submit the updated pics for us, and I'm looking forward to seeing the results so we can get you approved!

WARNING: The following content may be controversial! DISCLAIMER: These are my opinions from years of experience, pure and simple. Over the years I have noticed many future Troopers doing an OT (Original Trilogy) TK ask about return edges before, during (and after) their build... If this is a subject that you are curious about, grab a cup of coffee or a tall glass of frosty blue milk (this is a long post, lol) and read on.... QUESTION: "What are they, what do they do, and should I leave them, trim them down some or remove them"? ANSWER: Return edges are part of the molding process and provide strength in certain areas on the edges of your armor. They also provide a heftier look to some pieces. To help you decide whether or not to keep them is why I started this thread. Here I will attempt to go into a few details about them. Know in advance that as mentioned I personally am NOT a fan of them in many areas for several reasons (listed below). Some people love them and some may disagree with my opinions... many of you may trooped for years with no problems which is AWESOME, but many folks have had issues and questions. 1. In most areas they are not screen accurate- In looking at the screen caps and film used armor photos below you will notice their scarcity. 2. They can (and in many cases will) get very uncomfortable- Many folks like the "thicker" look it gives their armor, but they can cut into you, especially in the area where your arm bends ("armor bite") and the groin area (chafing). As Troopers we do a lot of walking and arm bending carrying a weapon, so keep this in mind. 3. If aiming for higher levels they can cause fitting issues- Examples: A. If you leave them on your forearm openings and glue on the cover strips, they will need to be completely removed at the wrists for Centurion level, making the opening too wide. This can lead to you having to remove the cover strips, reduce the sides of the forearms and re-attach the strips. Quite a pain in the posterior plate to say the least. *** See EXAMPLE 1 below. B. If they are overly thick on the bottoms of your shoulder bells, they can prevent them from lying snug against the biceps. 4. They can cause splits/cracks- Especially on some armor areas. ABS is designed to flex, and in some cases a small amount of return edge is fine, but too much can cause stress on those areas. *** See EXAMPLE 2 below Over time that stress will take it's toll somewhere, and that is usually the return edge. Anovos armor is especially prone to this on the sides of the chest/back plates and neck openings. I suggest shimming these on the rear with ABS strips and E-6000 to prevent it. Let's start with the chest plate: Note how the ones below (including the back plate) have either no or minimal edges with no cracks or splits. Now here is a screen used one with a pretty prominent edge, Notice the stress crack. Now, onto the ab/kidney/back plate: To keep them in line and prevent them from overlapping, it is suggested that you LEAVE a fair amount of the edges on the top/bottoms of the kidney and bottom of the back plate, especially if using the "classic" strapping method. Yes, these can split/crack as well but not normally. Shoulder Bells Trimming off the entire edge on the bottoms is not only screen accurate (first two photos), it allows them to rest close to the bicep (bottom photo). Third photo shows "suggested" trim lines (red) of an untrimmed bicep. My recommendation is the blue line. Biceps/forearms For sheer comfort and a sleeker look, I recommend removing ALL of the top and bottom edges before fitting/gluing them. First, no one sees the tops (covered by the shoulder bell) and the bottoms can cut into your arms (armor bite). Suggested cut lines in red. Again, if you do get armor bite you will have to take them both completely apart, remove the edge and re-fit. Better to think ahead. Some (myself included) like to leave a bit of the return edge on the outside of the top of the forearm for a thicker look. However, I highly suggest removing all from the inside part (the "scoop") where your arm bends. Again, an armor bite issue. This should also be done BEFORE final fitting. Here are some screen used examples: For level 3 (Centurion) all of the return edge on the wrist opening must be removed, including the area inside the "hump" as seen below: Posterior (butt) plate: Again, it is suggested that you leave some of the return edge on the top (and bottom in most cases) to keep it from riding under/over the kidney. Now, the BOTTOM of the posterior plate is where we often find splitting issues. Should you leave some return edge? Sure! BUT(T), when trimming the corners, (see below) be SURE not to give it a sharp angle... this is where the trouble usually starts. Instead, give it a slightly rounded angle (as shown in green). Thigh tops The tops of the thighs are where we see a lot of questions. I recommend removing all the return edges from the entire upper parts, and here is why: As mentioned above, you will be doing a lot of walking. If you have the edges (or at least a large portion of them) intact, the friction and inside facing angles can really chafe the heck out of you, especially on the inside of the groin area. (Ouch). If there are sharp edges/points on the tops (below) these will poke into you. When trimming these, just follow the existing line. Also, if you do your final fitting, glue everything together and find this out afterward, you will have to take the entire thing apart, remove the return edges, trim down the sides and then re-build/glue them back together. The reason is that afterward the opening will be entirely too large and you will have a giant gap all the way around. Not a good look. Easier to do it beforehand, trust me. As seen below, there were no return edges (or at least minimal ones) used in the films. Sniper knee plate The bottom of this piece is an area often not trimmed enough. To allow it to sit flat (or very close to flat) against the top of the calf enough for the glue to adhere properly I suggest removing most if not all of the bottom edge. Note how in the first and third photos how the sniper knee is parallel to the front of the calf. Last up, a photo that best illustrates my point about return edges and how they were not really present in many places on ANH armor. *** Example 1. of what happens when you have to reduce the return edge(s) after attaching cover strips. NOTE: For the example below I am using an ATA bicep (first 3 photos). Be aware that ATA makes the "suggested" cut line on their return edges pretty slim (a GREAT thing in my opinion). As seen on the armor in the 4th photo, if followed, the "suggested" cut line makes the return edges much wider (red line). Top view Bottom view For the purposes of this tutorial, we will assume that the ATA has those wider suggested return edges. Okay, let's say you really like the thicker look the return edges give your armor, so you left them pretty wide during fitting and then glued on the cover strips. Enough to get your arm through with a little extra room. Should be good to go, correct? BUT, you find that after having your arm bent for a while they cut into you (armor bite), so you find you have to reduce or remove most or all of it. No biggie, right? Just break out the Lexan scissors or Dremel and cut away, leaving the cover strips attached. Easy! So you remove it and then you run into the fact that the opening is now enormous. This is not a good look, and can result in the piece(s) jangling around and not being approvable at higher levels (or even Basic depending on your GML). What I am getting at with the above info. is that if you decide to remove them, it's better to do it before final fitting/gluing. Side note: Many biceps have an unusual shape at the tops (in red, below) normally located on the inside. This can be completely removed. Doing this will not affect approval at any level, and is screen accurate. It sits under the shoulder bell so no one sees it anyway! Screen used bicep USELESS TRIVIA: Many have asked about the "thumbprint" that many armorers have on the left bicep (screen used example below). Some think it is so you can tell them apart, but I was speaking with Brian Muir a few years ago (he sculpted the original armor used in ANH) and asked him about it: "To be honest, I have no idea... it was not in my original sculpt, and must have been a mistake in casting". There you have it. *** EXAMPLE 2: What causes cracks/splits: ABS bends pretty well, just as it's designed to. BUT, when there are return edges involved that changes the game. For the below example I used a 2 inch wide strip of ABS with a 1/2 inch "return edge". Looks pretty solid, right? That's because the edge provides stability. Now I am bending it up/in to simulate use over time. (More than it normally gets bent in many cases, but only to prove a point). That stress has got to go somewhere, and it's the return edge that takes it all and gives way, again causing cracks/splits. The red arrow shows a weak area where the stress in concentrated and cracks can form. Even if trimmed off afterward that area will be prone to splitting, so a small shim behind it is suggested. To sum it up, return edges are not meant to bend a lot. I suggest inspecting your armor occasionally to spot any existing/potential cracks/splits so that you can catch them before they get worse. I hope this helps answer any basic questions you may have, and always feel free to ask more detailed ones here or offer differing opinions.

So far so good, Clay! When trimming any of the parts, it's always best to leave a little more than you think you will need... you can always remove more if required. Use the old adage "Measure twice (or 3 times), cut once". Keep those photos coming, and if you have (or think you have) an issue, be sure to ask before you "move along".

Welcome to the FISD, Michael! As Q mentioned, we need to know your location to best help you. There are 501st Garrisons/Squads all over the world, and many hold "armor parties" on occasion, which are designed to help new folks with their armor. Assuming you are building a "classic" TK you can also look over some of the build threads here which will give you an idea of what to expect: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ Know that building a set of armor can be a long process taking time and patience, but we are here to help, so always feel free to ask questions!

Way to go, Denis!!

Thank you, John! Working on your app now, so please stay tuned!

Good question, Jessy! If you go to the Social Security Administration site (and other places) you can find out this out. Note that those names were just for the U.S., and just for that year. Who knows how many more were done all over the world! After TFA was released in 2015, Kylo was was the fastest growing baby name for boys. Here are some stats for 2017: Leia- 1005 girls Kylo- 238 boys, 7 girls Jedi- 32 boys Anakin- 303 boys, 7 girls Rey- 254 BOYS, 63 girls Not sure why you would name a boy Rey, but hey, this is the 21st century and I guess anything goes!

GREAT to hear that you are doing those mods, Stuart! If you look at the screen used (first 3) ones below, you will see a "swoop" at the bottom that faces the front. This is the left shoulder bell. Some armorers have this original design incorporated into their shoulder bells, and some do not. RS armor does include this detail. The one without the swoop (4th pic) goes on your right. Note that having them on the "wrong" sides or not having the swoop present will not affect approval at any level, but it is suggested that if they do that they be on the "correct" sides for better screen accuracy. Hope this helps!

I can totally see where you are coming from, Andrew. That is indeed one fierce looking weapon (and I'm envious as all heck of anyone that owns one)! However, the current HWT CRLs are based on the original Battlefront game, and the weapons contained therein. I can certainly appreciate the fact that you want to get this approved, believe me, (I could seriously use a new project) but at some point we need to draw the line as to how many weapons we can wield as HWTs. Being as t was only used in one film, it would honestly make it pretty difficult for it to be included in the CRL. Plus, in looking at all the details involved this would not be an easy build. I have built more E-11s than I can count, as well as DLT-19s and T-21s, but this would be a challenge even I would be loathe to take up. SIDE NOTE: Once you are approved as a HWT, you can carry any weapon you like!

Hi Denis, and thank you for your application for Centurion! Before we "Move along" there are a couple of simple items that need to be addressed, and looking at your build, I am sure you can get these done in no time! The first one concerns your wrist openings. As per the CRL it states that: "No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed". 30 seconds with a Dremel type tool will get rid of the return edge on the "hump". Easy stuff! Reference images It looks as if your right (and left) shoulder bells are still not quite as close as they could be to the shoulder bridges. I see you took the advice and removed the return edges from the bottoms (NICE WORK) but you may want to try a hot-water bath to widen the openings a bit. It should take all of 5 minutes and would give you a more refined look. If you need advice on this, just PM me. Lastly, the issue with your blaster will hold you up from Centurion: Again, as per the CRL for level 3: ..."T-Tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic". The original T-tracks were made from black plastic, and therefore could not have a metallic appearance as yours do. Some flat (or satin) spray paint could fix this in about 2 minutes! Please add an updated photo of the t tracks and one unobstructed shot of the grip to your application. Thanks!! Reference images

Some fantastic advice so far, Stuart. As mentioned, a lot of the details will be determined by your GML, but I see no reason why (with a little tweaking here and there) why you couldn't be applying for Expert Infantry level right after basic 501st approval! RS makes a killer set of armor no doubt, and with our help you could have that EI badge under your name before you know it! I may be am jumping the gun, but if may add to the list a suggestion to get you closer to screen accuracy it would be as follows: 1. As Q mentioned, you could definitely stand to raise the ab plate some. You may have to adjust your strapping a bit, but it will be worth it. I am thinking you hear a "clicking" noise when you walk due to the top of the thighs hitting the cod. This is not normal and can lead to chafing/red marks on your inner thighs, not to mention making it mighty uncomfortable to walk after a while. I need to mention that AWESOME job on your cover strip alignment.. absolute textbook! Once you get your Basic approval, I expect to see your application for level 2!

I know what you mean! I must have spent 30 hours (seriously) sanding mine down. Being a detail freak, I didn't want ANY print lines.

Wow, Peter, gotta' say that is one SWEET DLT-19, brother! I am SOOO glad to see you took the extra time to sand all the parts down smooth. We see a lot of 3D printed weapons here that get little (or no) sandpaper/filler love, but you went above and beyond and now you have a BFG you can be proud of! Nice job!!

Nice close-ups, sir, and thanks! Sorry to be a pain, but we still need the rear calf (lower leg) shots.

Hi John, and thanks for your application for EI! Before proceeding, we will need a few extra photos, brother, (listed below... but don't worry, you don't have to get suited up again just yet)! Gotta say GREAT job on painting the traps, ear bars and vocoder on that bucket, and I'm glad to see you went with the double-snap method on your torso. (Better safe than sorry). SUPER nice job on the ear positioning as well! 1. We will need clear, close-up shots of your connections for each thigh and calf in the rear. Please include the entire areas highlighted in blue 2. Your shoulder straps are looking a little askew in the back. Can you add some photos of the front and back of the top of the chest plate showing the positioning of them? Reference image 3. Please add a shot of your forearm openings as well. As soon as you get those in we can begin, and THANKS!

According to the U.S. Social Security Administration (2014) the following names were given/recorded in that year alone: Anakin (218) Kylo (8) Lando (4) Obi (12) Leia (605) Finn (770) Luke (10,431) Mace (61) Padme (14)

I have always used Plasti dip (available at Lowe's or Home Depot in the paint section) for the inside of my buckets. They have 2 kinds... the spray-on and the brush-on type. I personally used the spray. The smell is REALLY bad until it cures, but it holds up great. One hint, though: Whatever product you use be sure to lightly sand down and clean the surface well before applying it. This will help with adhesion.

Just trial and error, brother. Congrats on your HWT approval, and now that you have weathered that armor I hope to see you apply for Expert Infantry with your HWT! (Hint hint). BTW, if you see Gary, Gary jr, Randy or any of my old Makaze Squad mates on a troop be sure to tell em' Joseph says hello!

I was wondering the same thing. At first, I attached my shoulder ammo pack directly to the pauldron and had that issue, but I ended up adding a short length of nylon to the front of the left strap with 2 snaps. The loop goes behind the top strap on the rear of the ammo pack. Keeps it low and allows me to turn my head!

Dear fellow Staff members, Troopers and future Troopers, As Sarah mentioned in a previous post, it is with a heavy heart that I am stepping down in my role of Executive Officer of the FISD. Over the last few months life has thrown me more than a few curve balls, including personal issues, 2 deaths and a hurricane to boot, which in my opinion have precluded me from having the time to effectively perform my duties, and for that I add my sincere apologies to you all. Those of you who have known me over the years know that this Detachment and the people here have honestly meant the world to me, and it has been both an honor and a pleasure being a part of such an incredible group of folks. Although the dust is finally beginning to settle (at last), it will be several weeks before life allows me to get back into the swing of things here 100% as in recent years, but I promise I will get there. After speaking with Sarah, she has graciously offered that I step back into my previous role as Deployment Officer. This will allow me the chance to serve the FISD in the area that I know best, and I look forward not only to returning to assisting future Troopers, but helping those aiming for EI and Centurion attain their goals as well. A big THANK YOU to all of you for bearing with me. Your kind thoughts/comments and personal PMs have helped get me through the recent months more than you will ever know, and an extra big thank you to Sarah for her understanding and keeping me on as part of the Staff. Also, I'm sure that you will all join me in welcoming Brien as our new XO. He is a true treasure here, and I am sure he will continue to go above and beyond to make sure that this Detachment continues to be the best one in the 501st! My very best to you all, and I will see you on the boards a LOT more. Troop on, Joseph