Sly11

Hi Mike, As a rule of thumb, front leg cover strips are 20mm wide approximately, you usually go a bit wider on the calves for the enclosure, say 25mm. Now in saying this, if you can keep the front cover strips close to this , you can go wider on the back to try and cater for a wider girth. I know plenty of troopers who went with 30mm on the rear of the thighs because they needed a bit more. at basic i would be surprised if a GML pulled you up on something like that. On the arms again try and keep the front close to or around 16mm which is very close to accurate, and again if you really need to slightly wider on the back.

I can also recommend the Super glue 2 part kits. many troopers have used it with great success, myself included. My Plates are still attached to the rubber gloves now for the last 7 years.

Your armour bags are a cool and quite novel idea, well done John. PS, love your videos mate.

I saw Ardeshirs post with those photos yesterday, man what a beautiful shot that is. For what it's worth i will be adding it to our anniversary project because i think it;s the best FO TK shot we have seen in many aspects. Such a crisp photos, that just pop's, I can't express how much I like it. Now to you, thanks for the epic update. I have no doubt you will turn that kit into a first class FO TK when finished, also interesting to read of your thoughts and adjustment to your ROTK. Plenty of work ahead for you, that's for sure, and congrats once again on your wedding.

Exciting times ahead for you Dan, good luck with your build.

Indeed always be ware of armour on Etsy and Ebay, rarely if ever what it seems.

Wow Kevin, sorry to read of your woes. Looks like you are recovering from all this and heading towards the finish line. Best of luck with your approval sir.

Wow man nice work on the finish.

These are awesome photos Alexander, thank you for sharing.

Good luck Pat, hopefully you get a good run on completing your project this time.

Good, we will need images of both the TD and the correct blaster paint scheme for TLJ. We still need to get the language right for the blaster lvl 2 and 3 but those changes wont come into full effect until we can replace all the required images. As no blaster is required at basic, your F11 build can be more accurate and to the TLJ version, so you will have that all ready to go for the higher levels.

Awesome work Chris, you are inspiring me to do something with the F11 D I printed 2 years ago and it has sat in a box ever since.

At the stage we are now, we need a New Model with correct Cod, Fore arm cut and TD to move forward. Blaster section is going to need a substantial re write. I have requested access to the CRL to make the TD seam mod that we did for TFA to at least clear that up for the time being.

Page 28 complete - Sly11

Hi John You should start a build thread in the correct area based on the version of costume you are building (TFA or TLJ) Then place a link from it to here and rename this thread as your research and discussion thread. If you need assistance in changing the title I am more than happy to do this for you. Simply shoot me a PM so we can discuss. Great work on this by the way, looks like you have a few members and staff pretty excited with your work

Congratulations Kris, welcome to the rank.

Wow a necro post lol. There are plenty that simply wont use Rustoleum because of bad batches, and the fact there are superior paints available. here in Australia, Rustoleum isn't considered a great paint, and I have seen some crappy spray jobs done using it. Rustoleum has a primer and paint in one as does Krylon paint. this helps with adhesion to your prepared surface. Regardless of which of these two you chose, I can not stress enough that a prepared surface (filled, well sanded and cleaned before paint application) is the one major thing that will give you the best possible outcome for your finish. Rustoleum is also a high gloss and Krylon not as shiny when dry. Bare in mind if you are using Bondo or similar, you will probably need to use a primer or primer filler anyway to make sure your surface will be blemish free for your final coat. refer to my above statement regarding final prep before painting. Generally these paints are not expensive in the grand scheme of things, and experimentation is always something to ensure you are ultimately happy with the finish. No pressure pack spray can is going to give you the perfect result or type of result you can get from an Auto shop paint job, but it is also the cheaper way to go when it comes to painting armour. I hope this helps at least a little

Hi Tony and welcome aboard. We have another new member also building a WTF FO TK who may also be able to assist you with some questions he has asked. Now he is building the TLJ version but much of the costume assembly is the same and he is on the research trail. Check out his thread here Good luck on your exciting new journey.

Congratulations yet again Glen, well done sir.

Hi Pete and welcome to FISD.

Lots of posts missing images as links broken Glen, I would suggests sending all those to the archives. I corrected a few on Pages 32 and 33 but there are many that are no good without the imagery to show the work.

Congratulations Glen.

Go for it Danny.

Hi John, glad you found your way. Shipping to Australia from the US was around $150, but with recent pandemic issues the shipping has again escalated. The Aussie dollar is also trading low atm so once Sydney open up again I would expect freight to drop down again. Hopefully the dollar also recovers to make your purchase a little more palatable. Personally I have AP armour, but really any of the already mentioned armour makes can be built to basic approval and beyond, up to our additional accuracy level of Centurion with a small additional cost and a fine attention to detail. If you are up for a phone call, please send me a PM and we can have a chat where I can answer all your questions in great detail if you wish. We have troopers in Hervey Bay who are also well experienced and a little closer to you than Brisvegas, but hopefully you can make the trip down and check us out at one of the troops. It's a great way to see the armour up close and personal, and get a first hand idea of how it is constructed. Welcome aboard mate.

Nice work Dan, looking forward to seeing your project complete.