Sly11

Good luck on your approval Charles, and welcome to FISD!

POST 94 TLJ Movie release QLD Australia Redback Garrison Photos by TK5065 Supatrooper 3. 4. Celebration Orlando Staff photo FISD 2017 5. The Rise of Skywalker QLD Movie release Redback garrison Photos by TK5065 Supatrooper 6.

Don't forget this thread is closing later on today, so get you best troop photos in.

LMO's have suggested trying a Matt grey with a gloss clear coat to try and emulate the semi shine of the figure and not the Matt finish of the animated character. You could try that on some scrap plastic to see how the finish looks and compare to the figure images. As to the tone of grey, paint swatches are going to be the best way for you to determine the right or closest colour. paint coeds will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and you will no doubt have access to different brands of paint than I do in Australia so this is not as easy as it seems.

If you look at the data sheet for the animated character, you can see they have used a different colour for each of the colours of the costume. The grey areas are indicated in pink so I would suggests it is not black definitely a grey. (the action figures show it to be grey as well) It is a dark tone of grey which seems consistent with the darker grey of the action figures. because we dont have enough information on this character, you need to use the best references you have. I have asked the LMO team for their feedback on this area.

Welcome to FISD Alex! Awesome to read you are here to get some shiny white plastic happening in your future, and I'm sure you will find our TK community ready and willing to help get you to your end goal. This is a huge forum with a massive amount of information so please ask as many questions as you need so we can direct you to the most relevant resources.

Great to see some progress and you had the opportunity to attend an armour party. It sure makes a difference when the help is first hand. Looking forward to seeing your next photos.

What we could do is a gallery and have a link from the list to that. Keeps the list clean and easy to peruse but if you want more, the gallery would have all the images and the makers name as a tag to the image. It's just a thought and only my opinion, others may well disagree Eventually we will also build the reference guides as we have for the R1 and many of our other costumes. Wingnut (Jeff) does a brilliant job of these and we link them to the appropriate sections. I am all for giving our members the best chance and a first off approval not just at basic but also at our higher levels.

Sorry for any confusion, I meant the other way around. Keep the list simple, titles highlighted in colour and links supplied, so the list is quick to read/reference. The bulked out version is good but very large. My thoughts were around quick reference and a streamlined approach. Don't get me wrong, I love the images in he R1 list, I would just like to build a sub forum for that newer section and have an easy list to fall under that. This is part of the FOTK list look. As you can see we have COO (Country of Origin) some descriptors which indeed could be fleshed out a little more, what parts they supply under headings and links to there platform and/or email addresses. Armor: Jimmiroquai - Origin PHILIPPINES: Kits are partially assembled/fully trimmed lightweight fiberglass (ready for rigging and painting). No issues with quality or service reported. Contact for delivery times/price details. Link Here, Email KB - Origin USA: Kits are made of ABS and will need to be trimmed and assembled. No issues with quality or service reported. Contact for delivery times/price details. Link Here, Email Here Armoryshop Props - Origin RUSSIA: Supplies a range of First Order Armour and Specialised 3Dprinted Helmets Link Here Armor vendors under review: 850 - Origin USA: Kits are made of ABS and will need to be trimmed and assembled. No issues with quality or service reported. Contact for delivery times/price details. Link Here Imperial Surplus - Origin USA: Kits are made of ABS and require trimming and assembly. Quality has been solid and service good when he is producing. Link here WTF - Origin USA: TFA and TLJ new kit awaiting member feed back and reviews for quality etc. Kit made of ABS with some resin parts. Anovos- Offers a "Pre-order" FO kit at this time, but due to legal issues and extended (1 year plus) wait times is no longer recommended. Soft goods vendors: Soft goods assorted (Soulart) - Origin CANADA: Neck seals, Harnesses, Shiny biker shorts, First Order gaskets, Phasma capes. Link Here Soft goods assorted (Imperial Gaskets) - Origin USA: Rubber gaskets, Pauldrons and Waist belts. FB contact Soft goods assorted (Trooper Bay) - Origin USA: Link Here

That's awesome Dino!

Good to keep these lists fluid, add and remove as necessary. Take a look at the FOTK resource list. It would be good to replicate that format here so ultimately all are vendor/component lists have the same look. What do you think?

Also looks like you have the correct bolt for the forearm, saw the holster post so followed up on that for some clarity as well.

Here is a screen used asset, hope this is helpful for your holster referencing. You will notice Torx security bolts are used (have that center pin) The bearing is also held in place with a Torx security bolt Dome head and the others are counter sunk. Screen cap wardrobe malfunction forearm.

Wow Glen, looking awesome! Good luck with your application.

Only a few days left to get you photo submission in. thread closing on the 30th August.

Saw your post in the FB group and have answered you there. Hope the info is useful but i thought I might copy it onto your thread as well for others to reference. S trim needs to be pressure fit. This means the trim needs to be longer than the required length. Start at one point and really force the trim along the thin ABS edge. When you get back to the starting point really push it along some more as hard as possible. Mark just past the cross over point of the two ends of the S trim then force that last end along to really squeeze in and but hard up against the other end. You can try some rubber contact cement to a few points but I have never needed to glue mine in place. Only time I manage to dislodge it is if my mic headset gets tangled and catches the edge and pulls it off the helmet when removing. Your next question Andrew Franke, thanks, that's perfect. The S-trim I have is probably about 9" longer than the overall circumference of the neck trim, so that makes sense, but is it supposed to go over that bottom part of the ears? Thanks for the assist. My reciprocating response. really will depend on how you assemble the helmet. If the ears have a slight angle following the line of the back of those traps on the dome, also the fit of the ears against the helmet. It tends to cover the base of one side more than the other as the ears are shaped slightly different at the bottom. Don’t stress about the S trim covering them both. It also depends on the type of S trim as in the profile. Many use the rounded S trim as it is easier to obtain. The flat version actually sits a little deeper over the bottom edge of the helmet and as such tends to better cover the bottom of the ears.

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Congratulations Colin, welcome to Centurion rank Sir

Need to see the other side of the forearm. There is a distinct extra strip showing on the Executioner image. This is what we need some more references of to make an educated decision on . We should not be inclined to make a change based on one blury image.

I think we accepted the black because most vac formed hand plates had a shallow slot. It’s also a carry over from the old TFA CRL that I think needs to be updated here. As a mod it’s relatively easy to do for ABS hand plates by cutting out the depression and backing it with a strip of scrap ABS . Alternatively you can buy cast from original resin hand plates, so the options already exist. I think this could be a level 2 EI addition quote easily.

We have had no luck finding a specific paint code that was used in production. If I were you I would be looking at some paint swatches and getting as close to screen colour as you can. Compare the Hot Toys to the screen and see how different they are when compared. Production also sometime develop their own colour so it isn’t as easy to match. thw CRL won’t just choose a colour, this is part of the research you need to put in when wanting a new to legion costume

Congratulations Ardeshir!

100%, we sure will address the details of the cod with an updated image and explanation on the shape. Anomalies in TLJ should be considered the same as anomalies in the other films and as such are not the norm.

Welcome to the 501st Tarkan, you will never forget your first troop, enjoy every moment of it and many more to come in the future. Congratulations.