Sly11

That's awesome Dino!

Good to keep these lists fluid, add and remove as necessary. Take a look at the FOTK resource list. It would be good to replicate that format here so ultimately all are vendor/component lists have the same look. What do you think?

Also looks like you have the correct bolt for the forearm, saw the holster post so followed up on that for some clarity as well.

Here is a screen used asset, hope this is helpful for your holster referencing. You will notice Torx security bolts are used (have that center pin) The bearing is also held in place with a Torx security bolt Dome head and the others are counter sunk. Screen cap wardrobe malfunction forearm.

Wow Glen, looking awesome! Good luck with your application.

Only a few days left to get you photo submission in. thread closing on the 30th August.

Saw your post in the FB group and have answered you there. Hope the info is useful but i thought I might copy it onto your thread as well for others to reference. S trim needs to be pressure fit. This means the trim needs to be longer than the required length. Start at one point and really force the trim along the thin ABS edge. When you get back to the starting point really push it along some more as hard as possible. Mark just past the cross over point of the two ends of the S trim then force that last end along to really squeeze in and but hard up against the other end. You can try some rubber contact cement to a few points but I have never needed to glue mine in place. Only time I manage to dislodge it is if my mic headset gets tangled and catches the edge and pulls it off the helmet when removing. Your next question Andrew Franke, thanks, that's perfect. The S-trim I have is probably about 9" longer than the overall circumference of the neck trim, so that makes sense, but is it supposed to go over that bottom part of the ears? Thanks for the assist. My reciprocating response. really will depend on how you assemble the helmet. If the ears have a slight angle following the line of the back of those traps on the dome, also the fit of the ears against the helmet. It tends to cover the base of one side more than the other as the ears are shaped slightly different at the bottom. Don’t stress about the S trim covering them both. It also depends on the type of S trim as in the profile. Many use the rounded S trim as it is easier to obtain. The flat version actually sits a little deeper over the bottom edge of the helmet and as such tends to better cover the bottom of the ears.

Page 222 complete Sly11

Congratulations Colin, welcome to Centurion rank Sir

Need to see the other side of the forearm. There is a distinct extra strip showing on the Executioner image. This is what we need some more references of to make an educated decision on . We should not be inclined to make a change based on one blury image.

I think we accepted the black because most vac formed hand plates had a shallow slot. It’s also a carry over from the old TFA CRL that I think needs to be updated here. As a mod it’s relatively easy to do for ABS hand plates by cutting out the depression and backing it with a strip of scrap ABS . Alternatively you can buy cast from original resin hand plates, so the options already exist. I think this could be a level 2 EI addition quote easily.

We have had no luck finding a specific paint code that was used in production. If I were you I would be looking at some paint swatches and getting as close to screen colour as you can. Compare the Hot Toys to the screen and see how different they are when compared. Production also sometime develop their own colour so it isn’t as easy to match. thw CRL won’t just choose a colour, this is part of the research you need to put in when wanting a new to legion costume

Congratulations Ardeshir!

100%, we sure will address the details of the cod with an updated image and explanation on the shape. Anomalies in TLJ should be considered the same as anomalies in the other films and as such are not the norm.

Welcome to the 501st Tarkan, you will never forget your first troop, enjoy every moment of it and many more to come in the future. Congratulations.

Great photos Don, we look forward to seeing more of this project in the near future.

Discussing with LMO's now. Couple of things firstly lets try and not mix all the references. Animated is animated and action figures show a more realistic version. I know I've said it before, action figures really should not be the sole source of a costume if it's not seen on screen, but what are we to do in all honesty. LMO's will allow it then we work with it. I'll add to this that as LMO's change, so do the views of their office and what is and is not allowed. We can also push back to a degree. I'll now move this back around to your current questions. Use the action figure and I would suggests the Black series to determine the correct colour grey. If that looks shiny then we go for shiny. If it looks Satin, we go for satin etc. This also means that the brow trim 100% will need to be gold as per the references. The twin II on the calfs will remain as that was decided upon/approved by an LMO last year. keep up the great work Dino, cant wait to see this fully complete.

I think it's safe to say, we will be replacing all photos in this CRL with a new model at the top included. As to the fore arms, this may be a little more difficult. Currently we have no maker that supplies them accurately. If this mod is not reasonably easy to make, then we are basically stopping many from reaching Centurion based on this item alone. My take on updates is simple. If it's generally an easy mod, then make the change. If it is not, then work towards making it easy, like I have done with the Thermal Detonator. (commissioned someone to make a 3D file so the changes that should be present are present and make it accessible for any that want to achieve that accuracy). If we want to make a change like this, then I would suggest we need more imagery and clear shots from several angles to make sure we have enough information and at least attempt to get someone onboard to make it available so anyone can achieve it, not just a few that are well practiced or skilled. Glen will state most things are easy but he has built more costumes and armour than anyone I know lol, so that doesn't count .

This is an interesting one Dino. In most cases, TK's are shiny, gloss finish, and when looking at the two action figures, one is more reflective than the other. The only time we see a Matt or non gloss finish is on the TLJ Executioner troopers black details like Shoulder bell, helmet and Yolk of the back plate. If there is no clear descriptor for the grey areas, then I will discuss further with the LMO's and get back to you. In saying this, when looking at the animated images, it looks to be more a Matt finish than it would a shiny one. I'll keep you posted.

Each costume has its own or forms part of, a Detachment. We look after Stormtroopers, but even they are categorized and spread into different Detachments based on colour, weathering etc. Glen has given you a link to the home not only of our dark lord himself, but other Sith lords from the Star Wars universe. You may find other costumes you one day might also like to build. You are always welcome here to keep us up to date on your journey into this great hobby, so whether you decide to be Vader or something else, always pop in and say Hi!

D ring info added.

Yes I think at centurion we can push for the finer details on the blasters for sure. Electro Prod and Riot Batton additions look good

I agree that the description of the center detail isn't great. I had to read it a couple of times to understand it myself. We need a better description for it, perhaps a few more words can help. "The top center of the chest plate has a recessed section. The upward facing surface and sides of this have black details which can be painted or decals."

Yes I am aware of the link, maybe I should have been a little clearer on what I had meant. The front facing image could have the tabs in place without the need to use the gallery or link. The same would go for an updated TD showing better detail. If we want the best representation, the model images should be taken from a centurion approved model. We can still have an extended gallery for close ups, but that is of no use if someone has simply downloaded the CRL via PDF and the links are then gone.