gmrhodes13

It really comes down to strapping with gaps, I had to adjust mine a few times to get everything sitting nicely. You'll notice while trooping sections that are really close together will catch and can cause armor bites (red marks). It does make it handy if you can have someone taking photos that knows the costume and how it will look, I know from experience and having more than a few body pain issues that it's hard to get in the perfect pose on your own. You are very lucky being able to run up stairs, I crab walk

No not me, although I would like to do one

Nice work again, just a couple of things, be mindful of your armor gaps, thighs are a little mismatched in gaps between them and cod, notice it a lot more on the rear, a thigh is hitting the butt plate. Gaps at your elbows are different. Sniper plate is sitting under your thigh, I'd suggest adding foam behind to push it out or it will catch when walking. TD clips should not have rounded ends closest to plate Good luck with approval.

That was for their higher level program

Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks

Almost there

Forgot to mention a tip if painting, first use white paint then if there is any bleeding the white will fill those areas before you go over with blue paint.

Congratulations trooper

You could try these, you just have to play with print size, width of tube stripes should be 16mm

Great news, congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

I normally tap a Philips head screwdriver on the post, this helps spread the post out then finish with the snap tool

You really don't want to see any gaps from the sides, it is best to use E6000 glue especially if you need to remove for any reason. Glue normally takes at least 24 hours to dry so apply one coverstrip, wait at least 24 hours before applying another. Magnets, clamps and painters tape can help to keep coverstrips down while they are drying, the painters take you can apply some downward pressure to the parts before applying the tape, it will hold them down nicely. Also nip the corners of the coverstrips off or they can catch.

You need a steady hand with the cutting disk or drum sander For getting straight edges I use blocks of wood with sandpaper stapled to them, some are straight, some with a curve.

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks, that extra work was worthwhile, looking forward to seeing you at EIB, good luck.

You need to provide a link to your 501st profile

Having some pictures of what you are talking about would help. For all my trimming I use a rotary cutting tool, has swappable heads, I use a fine cutting disk and drum sandpaper roller.

Velcro may work but the issue is your kidney/butt is angled in (as is your back plate) and you have a triangle gap on the sides, these really needs to be straightened. You could put some padding behind the kidney plate, that would push it backwards but the downside is it would make a larger opening at the sides. I'd probably stick with Velcro on the belt and then see what the DO's say about your side gaps.

Forgot to mention earlier that I have had dye from an Aker amp mic bleed on to boots, wouldn't come out and had to use a boot whitener, glad they where an old pair I was going to use for a Sandy.

Nice work on the helmet, just watch the pain on the teeth, from the CRL: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area You may just want to remove any excess paint from the gums, this can be easily done with toothpicks

Your belt is a little high at the back, also take not of the gap in the sides, it's quite big at the bottom, you may want to even this out so the sides match.

Hello once again and welcome to the legion. In regards to images on armor the only garrison which is allowed to do so is the UKG, if you aspire to higher level approval EIB or Centurion you will have to remove those stickers. Welcome again to the ranks.

Great work, very similar to what I do but I stop the extra plastic before the backplate so it's not seen on the rear. Thanks for the share, another great tip for addition to the longevity of armor

I'm not going to go through all your links, basically you only have to generally resemble the CRL, does not need to be exact so you can use on areas not seen on the CRL It's mainly the look after you have finished weathering it which will probably be more crucial

Looks good to me, but for piece of mind and a definitive answer for higher level approval I suggest perhaps PM'ing the DO's: Joseph @justjoseph63 Daniel @TheSwede Sha Sha @shashachu Mike @msouza

Actually from painting plastic for props I find industrial enamel the best, has a little more flex and it's a little thicker. I've tried acrylic but it cracks easily as does cheap enamel paint.