gmrhodes13

Not too worry it was a suggestion and not specifically mentioned in the CRL

From the RS site: Boots: white leather “421” Stormtrooper boots made by Imperial Boots. Available in UK sizes 6 to 14.

Thanks for sharing the info

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With black Friday sales you may find RS are a little busy, I would give it a few more days and see if they reply. You have to be careful when purchasing plastic from other sources, many are of a different shade of white and you may find they won't match.

Very common to have gaps there, ears should cover these so nothing to worry about

Sorry to hear of your paint issues, I have in the past used a portable heater to heat up an area before painting which has helped when it's been cold. I also use automotive acrylic paint, dries a lot quicker and is less likely to run.

Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks trooper One other thing I noticed is a couple of your armor pieces have been assembled with the insides over the outside, generally with the "overlap" construction (based on ROTJ) the overlap is outside over inside. This isn't specifically mentioned in the CRL so just a suggestion but it would give a better look to your build These are just suggestions and not requirements Right bicep rear, should both be outside over inside like the left Shins should be outside over inside

Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks trooper

Depends where you purchase boots from, generally I have found boots to be the same size as normal shoes, although many who purchase Imperial Boots go half a size up, here is a thread full of info you may find helpful As for version why not both, there are only a few things different between the version so easy to purchase a few extra pieces and have both costumes, or even 3 if you include a few pieces for Hero. This pdf lists what is different between each version https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

RS and TM (Troopermaster) are the most screen accurate armor available, both from the UK. I have ATA which is Canadian and it's a little thicker plastic than other armor makers so it lasts a lot longer. At the end of the day it's what do you want, screen accuracy or longevity. Being from down under I pay the price on shipping no matter where it comes from

Thank you for your service to the community Daniel

Congratulations and welcome to the centurion ranks trooper

Congratulations and welcome to the centurion ranks trooper, that extra bit of work was well worth it

If they are the same as Rogues One then the flashlight used is an Element M300A Mini Scout Light which is actually an airsoft replica of a real SureFire M300 Tactical Flashlight

Hello and welcome to the forums, hopefully you have also reached out to the UKG https://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/

Personally I find the 1506 loud enough even at conventions, but I would suggest the issue would be the size of the amp 1506 3.75” x 2.81” x 1.08” (90mm x 70mm x 27mm) and the MR2300 5.31” x 3.74” x 1.57” (135mm x 95mm x 40mm), the 1506 fits nicely behind the chest plate or in a pouch for FOTK's. There is also the weight 1506 0.41 lbs and MR2300 0.99 lbs. From their site Note: This amplfiier does not work well with the iComm becasue it is too large to fit inside of a Costume. Please choose the MR1506 model or MR1505 model. I don't even think I've seen any builds using the MR2300. I remember reading once that there are some amps that had a power feedback which could damage the Icomm but couldn't tell you which, that was some time ago. Perhaps reach out to them to enquire [email protected] or [email protected] They do state on their site Not for use with the iComm: VoiceBooster models MR2200, MR2300, MR2300, AK38 and other brands of amplifiers. FYI I've just done a forum search and there are no results for MR2300

They look very similar to the FOTK

Welcome aboard trooper

Mine was ATA and like I said they have raised ridges so you can't trim any smaller or you cut those off so the fix is adding foam, many of us with skinny arms have to use foam and pad them. If you have a look at some of the centurion approval threads you will notice that a lot of people appear to have gaps in their biceps, it's a common thing with skinny arms, you will find too that once you have strapping from bells and forearms they will not flop around as much even without adding foam A bit of info in regards to sizing and measurements In this build he has left a lot of return edge, with that removed they would be very loose Another video on trimming biceps Another video

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Ok that helps, I first look at both pieces and see if they are the same width, I like to have my coverstrips in the center of the two pieces, if one side is wider I will normally trim more off that piece, I've never heard of never cutting down the inner side. So if they are the same width I trim equally of the inner and outer pieces front and back. You don't want to trim down to they are tight, having them a little loose allows movement, but also you don't want them too thin so they look out of place with the shoulder bells and forearms. I probably have two fingers of space in my biceps and have a small amount of foam, any thinner and they would look too thin. Hope that makes sense, I've only had one coffee this morning Here is another RS build with bicep sizing which may help Notice the width matches between the bicep and forearm

Here is Crickets build, Christine had to size down here biceps quite a lot, this may help

I have ATA armor and it has the raised edges so I didn't trim down thinner than those, I do have some foam inside to keep them a little tighter, I've got pretty skinny arms. Perhaps post up some images of how big they are on and that will give us a better idea how to advise you

Was my pleasure trooper, congratulations once again and welcome to the ranks