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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/27/2021 in Posts

  1. You're right L3- Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button. If you have any doubts, you can look at the CRL and the reference images (CRL - Reference Image Depository). Something that strikes me (may be the angle of the pic)....It looks like the clips are sitting above the control panel. You can round the corners of the clips a little(pic 1), otherwise they will scratch the armor when you put the TD on the belt. Also, you can put some velcro, (the soft side), on the outside of the clips, and this will protect that part of the armor as well (pic 2). 1. Reference image 2. Great job Alex!
    3 points
  2. With regards to how much return edge to leave... Aesthetically it's pretty much a personal choice how much return edge you leave on, but there are some practical considerations. There are some areas of your armour which are more prone to cracks through use. Common areas are the chest near the arm pits, and the angles cut into the butt plate (although cracks can form anywhere). You find small cracks very easily by shining a torch from behind the armour. Smaller return edges allow the armour to flex more before cracking, and this is one of the main reasons that I have very minimal return edge everywhere possible on all my torso sections. The only areas I have left a fair amount of return edge on the torso is: Bottom of back (where it meets the kidney), top and bottom of kidney, top of butt, top of ab (even though its hidden), and bottom of chest (where it overlaps the ab). On the limbs it's best to get the return edges to a place you're happy with before gluing, as the amount of return edge affects the fit. Best of luck, and keep up the questions and pictures
    3 points
  3. Great !! That's exactly. What I would do is to trim the lower section return edge a little more as below. Littel return edge References Check the distance and mark with pencil before to check again,
    2 points
  4. I have the Troopa Coola fans and they’re great. Good value for money. I don’t think it’s a must either to have a mic to hear what’s going on but it’s a choice thing. So far I can hear quite clearly so no need for me. I have an Anker 5700 power bank and works great. I also have the Tramp voice amplifier with sound affects and loops. Sounds brilliant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  5. Thanks for all the responses. I've been busy on a few projects. Aside from waiting for my BBB and finishing up a couple lightsabers... lots of helmet research. Seems that's the part I want to make sure is comfortable for what's to come. Here's what I've been looking at: Padding - I've been looking at the system TS (Trooper Stuff) has been putting together. Looks awesome: https://www.facebook.com/TrooperStuff/ Fans - Probably the Troopercoola system iComm system - Looks like this system from Ukswraith is the way to go: https://www.etsy.com/listing/525718278/stormtrooper-audio-system-wvoice?ref=user_profile&frs=1 EAS system: I'm told a hearing assist system is a must: https://www.etsy.com/listing/684966364/hearing-assist-speakers?ref=shop_home_recs_10&crt=1 need an ipod for trooper talk - Just picked up a shuffle for this Power Bank - I keep reading to get an Anker power bank. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm looking forward to next steps. Looks like 2022 before I'm able to submit and meet up with some of the Mountain Garrison!
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. the red line is ok, you can trim later when you try on the armor and walk around. Keep it up
    1 point
  8. Thanks for pointing that out. I haven't been totally thrilled with the buttons. Work was definitely required. A little research revealed the buttons should be 11mm. Mine were between 13 and 13.5. I drew pencil circles at the base and just painted to there originally and.... not good. So I drew some circles in CAD at 11mm and had the plotter cut them out of vinyl. Maybe non-white would have been a better choice for visibility, but it was in the plotter at the time. I cut a row of them, so I ended up with about 40 of these little reverse dots. The old buttons. 13mm and janky. Protective tape applied and paint removed. And let me tell ya - wow. That acrylic blue paint did NOT want to go away. The grey enamel came off relatively easy but that acrylic was on there. Still, I got it free and didn't make a blue mess everywhere. Then I stuck on the 11mm templates and heat-gunned them flat in hopes of making the best seal possible. It meant a little glue residue removal was required, but that's much easier than fixing 9/9 buttons. Paint applied. I painted from the edges to the center in hopes of not forcing paint under the vinyl edge. Vinyl and tape removed and cleaned up. And BAM!!! It looks SO much better. They're much more round, far less janky, and actually the right size now. One more from a slightly farther distance. I'm really happy with this. I'll give them a cure overnight and then armor up tomorrow for basic approval pix.
    1 point
  9. Prefect is the enemy of done. So I've been messing about again. With new trigger 1 in place I decided I preferred the placement of it to trigger 2 (the rear blocky one). So I wanted to make this the switch that activates the torch. I now am able to use both triggers with a switch should I want to, with would be brilliant for a full sound and light effects if you're into such things. I am not I just want the torch and the red LEDs to work. I've changed the new trigger to allow the use of a micro switch which works really nice. The biggest issue was securing it, I could have used glue or something like that but I wanted to be able to remove/replace it if needed with out having to reprint the part. After a lot of messing about I opted for two M4 grub screws which centre on the mount holes on the switch. Sadly these will be visible from the outside but will be on the body side, and black in a black part so you will need to look for them to see them I think. The micro switch fits along the length of the blaster so the trigger will act on the switch nicely. The positioning is just perfect so that the switch will also act as the return spring, and gives about 3-5mm of trigger travel. It's not a huge pull but it's enough to know you're doing it. The extra big hole in the above part is to allow wires to come through from trigger 2 if needed. The microswitch being offset gives the room for the wires. Once sanded the holes blended in a bit nicer, I've tapped them M4 with a tap so the grub screws go in nice and easy and should mean the paint won't get trashed at assembly. The rear barrel will sit above the black part so I've updated it to add the extra holes for the wires from both the triggers to be able to come through. This is printing as I type. I also did an inventory and have noticed I either never printed or lost a few parts so I'll need to get those printed.
    1 point
  10. Armor really should be fitted TO you, maybe unless you are the perfect 'standard size', and even then. They are NOT one-size-fits-all, or even most, so very few reputable vendors offer premade/ready-to-wear armor, and the trend is towards building yourself or working closely with a vendor on a commission. Since fitting is an important step, the best course of action is to find someone local to you to help mentor, or you may still end up with an ill-fitting suit, even with a commission, and it's a somewhat expensive costume to risk it on. If you really want to be a stormtrooper, and look good, it's worth investing in the tools and skills to build your own, imo.
    1 point
  11. You didn't mention what kind of rivet it was, but I have a thread here that will help:
    1 point
  12. Nice job so far, gentlemen! One thing that jumped out at me was the sides of the butt plate(s). As seen in the second image, they need to be angled. BUT, when doing this I wouldn't suggest making the corners sharp, but rather rounded out a tiny bit to keep them from snagging on your under suit. Without seeing a close up, it looks like you did a nice job on the curve where the plate meets the tab (first pic). When trimming that area, it's important not to leave a sharp angle as seen in the second image. This can (and usually does) lead to stress cracks, so again, round it out just a bit if it's not already. Also, you definitely want to leave the return edges at the bottom of the back and the top of the butt plate which keeps them from over-riding each other. What you have now looks perfect!
    1 point
  13. To answer your first question, because a cover strip goes over the top of the seam, it wont matter so much how close they butt up as long as they are reasonably good. 2nd question, many kits have this as uneven. Align the bottoms of those and not the tops. Cut an angle at that end of the cover strip to account for the difference in height of each half if that makes sense.
    1 point
  14. Hi all, A few questions... I was lucky enough to attend a Build Party with TKMama a few weeks ago. She (and another members whose name I totally forgot) assisted greatly with me figuring things out and showing me precisely where to cut. As mentioned, I have an RS Propmasters kit. I am following along on their "Building a Storm Trooper" series on YouTube which is also super helpful. I am currently working on the Right Bicep and have a few questions. The seams aren't a perfect fit of course from the trimming. I have put 120 grit sand paper on a block of wood and have used it to get it fairly close. My question is.... How smooth should they "butt up" to each other? Second question. I know that the top section doesn't really show as it is hidden under the shoulder bell. Question though... The inside section sticks out about 1/4" above the exterior side when the bottoms are even. Is that correct with my kit? Working on reducing the photo size to post a photo to get it under 512 kb.
    1 point
  15. You may want to remove a little paint from your ab buttons if you are aiming for higher levels as they are a touch on the large side If you compare to the reference image below you will notice they should stop just before the lower ridge
    1 point
  16. I got the shoulder bridges glued in place and seemingly lined up well. These have thin aluminum glued inside with a wrap of fuzzy-side velcro over top (underneath?) to prevent scratches. I did the fuzzy stuff after finding scratches from this test fitting... Not bad IMO! They're decently straight, angled well, and close up flush. I, of course, managed to not snap a front pic, but these side ones give a feel for how flush they are on the front as well. A tiny bit of heat gunning to get the front outer edges bent down very slightly to hide the edges of the aluminum really gave them a clean fit. And here's the buttons glued on about as high as they'll go. This low angle might over-emphasize the button overlap a bit. Hopefully this belt alignment works tho.
    1 point
  17. You can trim the cover strips down if they are a little long, I normally trim them to match the piece they will be attached too before adding glue. Good idea to nip the corners off too so they don't stick into you when moving, original armor had cut corners, references: Some leave to dry for 24 hours but I like to leave it longer, especially any pieces that may be under slight pressure, 48 to 72 hours. Also make sure you rough both areas with course sandpaper before applying glue, gives the glue something to grip too. Some areas of armor are more difficult to get a perfect fit just with magnets, I use a combinations of magnets, clams and painters tape. If you apply downwards pressure and hold when adding tape around the whole piece you can basically squash the cover strips down so the lay flatter. Here's a few examples
    1 point
  18. Things left undone after the 4 day armor fest: - ab buttons - shoulder bridges - rear shin cover strips and attachment method - thigh garters - misc smol details like screw paint, glue removal, and knee trimming. The shoulder bridges have metal reinforcement and inner ABS void filling. I got them as close to the correct angle as possible and stuck them on. Fingers crossed that they're in the right spot. Rear shin cover strips have been gluing about 24 hours at this point. I'm gonna let them sit a bit longer before adding the velcro strips. I'd really like to not have that E6000 pop free. Also, the garter snap plates have been glued in and the ab buttons are in place. Excess E6000 is slowly being worried free and screws/rivets are now painted white. Everything on my list has been addressed and will get crossed off SOON!
    1 point
  19. Got some work done this morning... more than I figured I would. After doing a simple fix to the thigh straps, I was trying on the legs to get an idea of how big the mobility cuts needed to be and I noticed my shins kept riding up. It's going to make getting dressed out a little more challenging but I have decided to add elastic stirrups to them. The snaps are glued into the shins and drying. With these 2 issues taken care of I'll decide how much to trim tomorrow. The other issue I noticed is that my shoulders didn't seem to sit right. I know the RS TK shoulders aren't identical which makes it a little challenging but I think this is more of an issue with my 50 year old posture not being what it was. I replaced the left shoulder strap with a new one that has the arm attachment button around 1/2" further forward and it made a huge difference. Finally, I've been adding electronics into the wonderfully spacious helmet. No challenge at all given the cavernous dimensions! I have the fan kit installed and now taking a break from this to get some yard work done. Before I do any more, I'm taking the dremel to cut the brass bolts off so they stop scratching my nose every time I twist the armor on. Then I'll go back to figuring out how to get the voice package installed in a manner my head will still fit. On pace to post a photo package for review tomorrow to make sure I'm ready for my submission.
    1 point
  20. Looking good, you can find some references of the thigh/shin notches here
    1 point
  21. NEW In Memoriam Detachment Leader Census 2021 Merchandise Hall of Fame Just For Laughs Around the Detachment Costume Totals Update Your Build Threads INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS Common FISD Acronyms and TK Glossary Pre Approval Forum 3D Section Field Exercise Award Imperial Attaché Program Fire Teams EIB & Centurion: What do these terms mean? Advanced Tactics Awards Public Relations Staff List 2020 Follow FISD Günter Hense (ID-22247) passed on 9 December 2020. He loved life, was a healthy, active and happy person and he was always grateful for the people around him and the happiness he felt as a result. He always took that as a gift and never for granted. He greatly enjoyed being out and about with his Garrison at events, philosophizing about costuming and life in general during regular meetups, and seeing all the wonderful places that were open to troopers, through his beloved hobby. Many visited him and his family at home in the bicycle workshop, had good conversations with him and, above all, laughed a lot. He was very grateful for all of that. And he was incredibly happy when he was accepted into the German Garrison, and was "officially" allowed to take part in the outreach programs in costume. Since it was he who introduced his son (ID 55255) to Star Wars as a child, it was clear that this was also a family activity for him. Our condolences go out to his family, friends. "Buckets Off" Tessek and Mon Calamari Officer Gerald Home Dies, Aged 70 Just days before his 71 birthday, sad news Gerald Home has passed away following an illness with cancer. He will be remembered by Star Wars fans for his roles in Return of the Jedi as Tessek and a Mon Calamari Officer, and to many others as Mr Muscle. He was a popular face at numerous conventions all over the world. Our condolences go out to his family, friends. "Buckets Off" Greetings fellow members, and welcome to the October edition. In last months newsletter we discussed the forum work that has been taking place and an update was coming soon. I shall now expand on what that entails but stop short of divulging the entire scope of works until launch time. We understand the importance of keeping the forums up to date, relevant, exciting and ultimately the most welcoming and friendly forums in the legion. One of the more critical areas of our vast forums is the New Recruit section. It is generally the landing point for anyone new to FISD, non 501st, and Legion members starting their TK journey. There is a mass of information just in that block of forums alone, making it an important sector of focus. We have completed a clean up sweep of the area already, so now we move on to rearranging and revamping,, pinning and corralling more of what could be considered, the more important posts for ease of use and location. There will also be renaming of some forums and consolidation of others taking place, again to streamline the entire section aiming to make it all easier for new comers to find the information they need quickly. Along with this work, we are looking to create a new staff position so there will be someone to drive and participate in discussions, and develop a new section we are planning. Hopefully the next time we are talking about this section, it is to launch the changes and introduce you to a new staff member. IPM news. Imperial Propaganda Machine It gives me great pleasure to announce a new member of the IPM team. Since he has arrived on FISD's doorstep, he has been enthusiastic, helpful, goes out of his way to not only greet new members, but offer as much help and advice as he can. He quickly became an attaché, and hasn't looked back. Please join me in congratulating TK46116 CallMeMrTibbles, Richard Tibbetts! Good work sir, your ethics and dedication has not gone unnoticed. Attaché Outstanding Achievement Award I have been informed that TK-12953 (jsilvius) James Silvius has sent the last shipment of coins out this past week, and I would like to personally thank him for the monumental and at times stressful service he has has performed for the detachment. As we have in the past, I would like to officially award James the Attaché outstanding achievement award for exceptional service to the detachment for undertaking a large scale merch run. He not only helmed the Anniversary coin run, but did it efficiently and shipped all coins out in record time. Brilliant job James, the staff are truly grateful, as I am sure the membership are also. You are a credit to FISD. With Unquestioned Loyalty Andrew Franke TK11469 "Sly11" Detachment Lead 501st Legion 2020 Census has begun, it is the responsibility of all 501st approved members to fill out the census each year which you can find here You must be registered on the main forums to participate in the census:here I didn’t’ troop because of Covid-19 Due to Covid-19 many didn’t get the opportunity to troop during this census period, Legion Command has advised that GCO’s will determine how they want to proceed in regards to a members trooping activity and status, as such check in with your local garrison command. Here's what the charter says about activity definitions: Operations Protocol/Membership An Active Member is defined as a member in good standing who meets the following requirements: Meets all 501st Membership Requirements (i.e. ownership of an approved costume, is over 18 years of age, etc). Has an approved membership record in the 501st Legion Membership Database Maintains active contact with their Garrison CO or GML. Active contact and participation will be confirmed during the annual Legion Census held each year during the month of October. Maintains contact information/membership record in the 501st Legion database either through their Garrison CO or GML. Participates in at least one Garrison or Legion activity per year while wearing an approved 501st costume owned by said member as recorded in the Legion Census. (One year is defined as the period from Legion Census to Legion Census). Examples of an activity include, but are not limited to conventions, charity events, or any activity designated as an official event by a coordinating administrative unit of the Legion. Members who serve in military branches are exempt from activity level requirements if their service renders them unable to meet these requirements. These Minimum Activity Level Requirements should be administered as justly and with as much common sense as possible. A member may retain active status, even if they do not meet all of the requirements listed above at the discretion of their unit Commanding Officer or Legion Command. Filling out the census only takes a few minutes and you also have the opportunity to update your contact information ie: address, email, phone and so on. THE LAST EVENT TROOPED is the most important piece of data. Because our trooping year was cut short due to Corona-virus, Legion Command has recommended membership status changes are left to the discretion of the Unit Commander so please check in with your local command prior to filling out your census. NOTE: members who were not able to troop should enter "COVID-19" as their last troop. Any questions you have in regards to the census please contact either your GCO (garrison commanding officer) or your GML (garrison membership liaison) Census form layout With the last forum update the viewable area of the census may not be full page, as such change your page magnification to 75% and you should be able to see the whole page. Note: make sure you tick the box "Is the above information correct?" please tick YES If you have any problems with the logging in please contact the LWM team here: [email protected] So stand up and be counted troopers, you have until 31st October. FISD 15th Anniversary Coin CLOSED Run is now CLOSED, coins have been shipped, please note shipping can take some time depending on your location. For more info head to the sales thread here Expert Infantry Coin (15th Anniversary Version) OPEN (Only 20 Coins Remaining) The time has come for the new run of EIB gold challenge coins! The 15th Anniversary gold EIB coins are available now. PLEASE NOTE: You must be an Expert Infantry member to purchase one of these coins. If you've ever purchased an Expert Infantry gold coin before, from any run, you cannot purchase another one. These are once per EI! You can find the sales thread here Please join me in welcoming TK - 54185 Georgia to the Stormtrooper Hall of Fame!Well done Trooper!https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51226-3-tk-54815-troop-log/ With Unquestioned Loyalty Aaron Gibson TK-99725 "Pyrates" Curator Hall of Fame "Morgi's Memes" Thank you to Luca "Morgi" TK66744 for starting a FISD specific meme thread, hope to see more of these in the future not only by you but by others as well. You can find the thread here "ANH Stormtroopers are all left-handed" myth busted. A great comparison of left and right handed troopers put together by Colin TK25622 "OddViking327", you can find the thread here Currently (as of 9th October 2021) there are 32,344 approved costumes in the legion, out of these homed under FISD there are 5,809. Interestingly the larger the legion costume totals grows the smaller amount of TK's there are with now only 17.96% of all approved 501st costumes, this is the first time this number has dropped below the 18%. WE NEED YOU TO UPDATE YOUR BUILD THREADS As most would be aware we are diligently working through the forums updating watermarked images, missing images and broken links, this has taken over a year so far and has been a monumental task but there is still a lot of work ahead of us. Members build threads are one of the biggest areas of watermarked/missing images and we are asking you the membership to help and update your build threads yourselves as this is just too big a task for staff. Build threads requiring updates are being moved over to this area https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/241-build-threads-requireing-maintenance/ Thank you in advance for your cooperation. INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS For a full list of FISD awards head here Are you new to the FISD and wondering what the heck all those abbreviations and strange sounding terms mean? To help you @justjoseph63 has started a list of the most commonly used ones that will give you some insight. If you have ANY questions about a particular term that is not listed or suggestions for new ones please contact Joseph. You can find the list here Pre Approval Forum allows future Troopers the opportunity to submit photos of their completed build to be reviewed by the Staff, Imperial Attaches and others in preparation for forwarding it to their GML for approval. Any and all advice/suggestions given will be specific, constructive, helpful and respectful. Please note that this program will NOT take the place of your local GML, as Detachments are not chartered for costume approval and can not override a GMLs decision, but is instead a peer review program designed to help you look your best and offer guidance and positive feedback. For more information on this program, please visit the link here Don't forget to visit our 3D section when next surfing the FISD forums, there is plenty of useful information to potentially help you on your next TK adventure. You might be feeling may generous and share with our community a new TK related 3D file and maybe win yourself a 3D contributors award so check out the details below and be part of the in house 3D community. Here is a link to the FISD 3D Contributor program. Don't forget to create a troop log here on FISD and get awarded for your adventures The list of accomplished troopers keeps growing, so get on board and register your troops today Simply start (or update!) your troop log, keep the running total in the title, and post (at least!) a date and name for the official 501st event where you wore your TK! Once you've hit a milestone count, go over to the "Field Exercise Awards -- Post your milestones here" thread to request your profile be updated! Simple, right? Award Recipients September - October TK20466 "Alay" Sarah - TK36036 "MrGrave" Grave - Are you an approved TK that spends more time on the boards than the average Trooper? Do you enjoy using your knowledge to help out future and existing Troopers? If so, we would like to invite you to join the Imperial Attaché program! Members of the I.A. team are chosen to help out not only those here on the boards, but on a local level as well. Our aim is to have at least one in each and every Garrison, Squad and Outpost in the entire legion to be the eyes and ears of the FISD on a local level. For a complete list of Imperial Attaches, go here Some of the benefits: Access to exclusive Attaché merch., including patches, IA patch , IA Rocker For a complete list of Imperial Attaches, go here You may also be in the running for an Imperial Attaché Award Imperial Attaché Award for those attaché's who have gone above and beyond [minimum 1 year of service]. You can find a list of prior recipients here Want to setup a "Fire Team? the Fire Team program is completely optional, and is intended to help form a common identity and spirit of camaraderie among 501st Legion Stormtroopers in the same geographic area/garrison that troop together. Fire Teams are not officially recognized by the 501st Legion nor the FISD, although they will be able to access a Fire Team sub-forum on the detachment website. You can find more information here So what exactly are and levels? These programs were designed for those who choose to take their armor above and beyond the minimum requirements for basic 501st Legion approval. It gives you the chance to show a level of dedication and pride that takes your armor closer to being as "screen accurate" as possible, without as much extra work as you may realize! You can find more information on the programs here This area lists all those who have gone above and beyond basic approval toward screen accuracy and obtained EIB or Centurion or both. FOR September - October the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment would like to congratulate: Expert Infantry Badge Award: Jacob "Pistolsheets" TK86267 EIB HWT - 2nd Award Kris "Crampeat" TK23410 EIB 1032 Glen "gmrhodes13" TK85421 EIB HWT - 9th Award GREAT job on your approval, now on to Level 3! Request your free EIB certificate here You can find a list of multiple award recipients here --------------------------------------------------------------- Centurion Badge Award: Brett "Cleantrooper" TK9593 Centurion ESB - 2nd Award Jacob "Pistolsheets" TK86267 Centurion HWT - 2nd Award Glen "gmrhodes13" TK85421 Centurion HWT - 9th Award Outstanding job on reaching Centurion, Troopers! Request your free Centurion certificate here You can find a list of multiple award recipients here If you see any of these Troopers around your Garrison or Squad, be sure to congratulate them! Newsletter If you have any interesting stories or photos or something you think newsworthy please send them to me via pm. For anyone interested in having a look through any of the older newsletter they have now been moved to a new archive sub forum which you can find Here With Unquestioned Loyalty Glen "Q" Rhodes TK-85421 "gmrhodes13" PRO Newsletter Staff List 2021 Detachment Leader (DL): Andrew Franke (Sly11) TK11469 Executive Officer (DXO): Tim Waychoff (Dark CMF) Chief Deployment Officer (DCA): Joseph Pedigo (justjoseph63) TK-10963 Deployment Officer: (DCA): Mario E RT (TKSpartan) TK-48117 Deployment Officer: (DCA): Jose Maria Sanchez (Chemi) TK-30173 Lead Provost Marshal (DCOG): Steven Sheades (starsaber25) TK-10466 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Chris Pearson (themaninthesuitcase) TK-10911 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Dan Branton (CableGuy) TK-42911 Personnel Officer (PER): AC (Novatie) TK-5597 Fire Team Relations (PRO): Mark Ryner (Captsafe66) TK-4584 Content Editor At Large (PRO): Christoph (Danny) Lauber (Ripper_L) TK-55550 Content Editor Support (PRO): Tony Jobe (ukswrath) TK-10116 Content Editor Awards (PRO): This will be handled by the XO Newsletter Publisher (PRO): Glen Rhodes (gmrhodes13) TK-85421 HOF Director (PRO): Aaron (Bronx) Gibson (Pyrates) TK-99725 Attaché Ambassador (PRO) Frank Peranteau (Frank75139) TK-75139 Social Media Relations (PRO): Teresa Nuthall (Soulart) TK-41307 Social Media Relations (PRO): Jim Ferrell (Rat) TK-95970 Systems Administrator (DWM): Eric Brager (Darth Aloha) TK-9674 Systems Administrator (DWM): Mathias (Locitus) TK-2959 Detachment Founder (DF): Paul (Daetrin) TK-8020 Trading Cards Content Support (IPM): Eric Ho (Hoda) TK 77520 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Brien Edick (Harbinger) TK 92802 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Jeff Salt (wingnut) TK 50297 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Richard Tibbitts (CallMeMrTibbles) TK 46116 Facebook: www.facebook.com/whitearmor Facebook Group: 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment (FISD) Official Twitter: www.twitter.com/FISD501st or @FISD501st Instagram: www.instagram.com/fisd501st On behalf of the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Command Staff and the Imperial Propaganda Department
    1 point
  22. Welcome to FISD Bobby! Looks like you are well on your way. Looking forward to watching your build thread!
    1 point
  23. Glued the barrel and the base together with super glue, then sanded the seam to clean up the excess glue. I'll add a bit of spot putty to the seam later.
    1 point
  24. Hello and Welcome to FISD. RS Props, clever choice. good luck.
    1 point
  25. Hi Bobby, You've certainly been doing your research!! I can't talk about those two suppliers from personal experience, but there are a lot of guys on here that have used them before. Best advise I can give is to contact them both and discuss your measurements and requirements in detail, but I've not head of a costume yet that hasn't needed some small degree of tweaking. If that's the case then don't worry, the help you'll get here and through your local garrison is second to none. Ask lots of questions and post lots of pictures, and you'll be trooping in no time.
    1 point
  26. Update #27 - Cables without labels We now come to the last chapter of this build, which covers the electronics. As shown in update #08, I had planned to run the wires like this: Meanwhile I decided to place the speaker inside the end cap, because this is easier with the wiring and will hopefully sound better inside the receiver tube. Also swapped positions of the LEDs (as the lower LED is easier to see in the front muzzle). Placed the circuit board in the middle, because all cables had to meet there. Starting with the LEDs on the front, I wanted to run the wires along the inner barrel. To get it out of the receiver tube, I had to remove the magazine and bullets. After these were out (and broken) it was still not possible to remove the inner barrel, because the curved ends of the T-tracks prevented it from sliding anywhere. That means I had just damaged my magazine for nothing Had to find a way to install the cables while the barrel is inside the receiver… Prior to the permanent installation, it was time for a quick test to ensure everything is working correctly. Used these nice thin wires because black is best to hide in the blaster, but ended up with a lot of “cables without labels”. However, it worked and that really made me happy As a last step, I completed this blaster by (again) adding the rail with scope and counter. Then suddenly it was all done. Here is one last short video that shows how the electronics work. The rotary switch clicks nice and although the light from the red and blue LEDs is hard to see, it is very bright as a matter of fact. So, this is it. We’re done. I would like to end this update with a little addition that has recently been given to me by Stefan (Turrican). A very fine gift which perfectly fits to this Lucky#Eleven. Thank you very much. Enjoy your weekend, Stormtroopers and Cadets Feel free to leave any comments and questions.
    1 point
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