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The other big component if not previously mentioned is that, there is no one right answer - there are LOTS of right answers, and plenty of wrong ones. It drives me up a wall to see (mostly on non-FISD Facebook pages), someone ask "What armor should I buy...?" with no further context, then a dozen people throwing out makers (usually RS) without any further context. It's silly! That's like joining a car group and asking, "What car should I buy?" and everyone just going "BUY A VAUXHALL ASTRA". What are you going to be using it for? How often do you drive? What country do you live in? (We don't get Vauxhalls in the US)... What is your budget? Do you prefer performance or luxury? etc. These type of questions MATTER when buying a car, and it's a similar process to buying armor... And it's why research is key and why I avoid just straight up telling people what armor to buy and where - you want the armor that's right for YOU, and that requires some work to know. The more you research, the happier you'll be with your purchase in both cases. But you're in the right place to start building that knowledge. Good luck! (Another component is also that many makers do not have websites, since at least in the US, it opens you up to legal liability/receiving a Cease-and-Desist order from the Mouse for profiting off of their unlicensed intellectual property, which they don't take kindly to. UK laws must be different or RS for example must not care, but that's why a lot of the best makers and their contact info are here on the forums, where you at least have to sign in and be actively looking for armor - buying on a whim off a website (or EBAY) is asking to trouble for many different reasons...)

Episode 4 of my Storm Trooper armour build now available to stream. One of the larger parts that took up a lot of space. One day I’ll look back at this from my huge fully equipped Tony Stark Iron Man style workshop and be amazed how I did it... Where there’s a will, there’s a way. VIDEO AVAILABLE HERE: https://youtu.be/yKlwKIu-TPs My special addition to the armour with breathable mesh interior.

It’s honestly awesome seeing what you’ve done with eva foam! One of the things that really stuck out to me was the fact that all the skills you learned from foamsmithing really does apply to working with hard kits as well! I’m still terrible at using bondo and sanding lol. Not only that, but you strive for accuracy as well! This is what the 501st is all about and I hope to see you get a plastic kit some day, but no rush! I am super glad that you are sharing your journey with us here! I look forward to your future posts!

David to the rescue!

OK, so I hate to throw a spanner into the works, but for clarity should this at least be somewhat defined? i.e. "Cod sides are straight, not curved like TFA and have distinct ridges on each side". TLJ correct cod is required. Must replace image with correct cod The first pics is an Anovos TLJ cod showing both the straight sides and the ridges. I copied it off of an app, so it has a green tinge from the background but it is a good example imo. Anovos TLJ Anovos TFA As seen above, these are WAY different.

POST 71 Collection of photos from the Hong Kong Garrison. More can be found at: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. And some form my personal trop log: 8. 9. 10.

Everyone, There appears to be some interest in finding alternative microphones for use with our armor amp systems. The few users who stated they have used a throat mic did not give too much feedback as to their success, impressions of said microphones or what did they do to make it work. There is a thread on how to rewire a throat mic so it would work with a personal amplifier like an Acker. (thank you for that) I too was one of these people looking for another solution as fitting the unidirectional headset mic that comes the Acker amp worked great for me if the following conditions are met: 1) it actually fits the user's head shape AND inside the helmet comfortably. (I had to rebend the right side of my headset metal holder because the Acker one is TOO big and when I put on my helmet it pushes the mic forward off my ears.) 2) the directional mic doesn't move around or is of the correct proximity to one's mouth. (I used a bandaid to hold the mic to my cheek) 3) when using an iComm, the sound effect level is not user adjustable so if the mic signal to noise ratio is low or inconsistent the squelch noise can be quite a bit louder than the user's voice. Solution? I had a few throat mics that I used with FRS walkie talkies when I used to play airsoft and thought why not try to make them work. Problem was they were all 2.5mm 3 conductor male pin type. Digging through my box of miscellaneous electronics junk and I found a female 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter I used to use for a wired cell headset back in the day before speakerphones or Bluetooth. I plugged in my 2.5mm pin throat mic into this adapter and then into the Acker and I was in business! I didn't need to wire in a 1.5v power source as mentioned in the other post but that could be beause the Acker supplies power through the mic input port. Of course in this application the ear piece of the throat mic was useless but at least the mic worked. I thought why doesn't someone make a throat mic without the earphone? There would be plenty of other applications for a mic only use right? Since I still had the packaging of the maker of my throat mic, there was the URL of their company and punched up the web browser. Check out the different ones that they offer here at http://www.ixradio.com/shop/computer-accessory/ This vendor seems to change their website every so often. If the above link goes dead just go to their home page http://www.ixradio.com/ and look for the mic only tab. Since it is the same company that makes the one I have and I emailed them about Aker compatibility, they responded shouldn't be any problems. I think we have a viable solution for those looking for an alternative to using an acustic mic. With these no adapters are required since they are 3.5mm male pin. Note that they also carry a few personal amplifiers (albeit pricy) as well, but I could not tell you if they are iComm compatible since the iComm draws some of its power from the Acker. My observations: Using the throat mic with the Acker directly was great. There wasn't any background noise (not that there were any previously using the headset) But the sound level was consistent and I can take off and put on my helmet without any interference or visible wires coming down from my head. The sound quality was a tiny bit hollow sounding so this added some electronic muffled effect to my speech. Not bad and I was pleased. But I'm a Stormtrooper and there should be a squelch click at the beginning and end of my transmission right? Since I also owned the iComm, I plugged it in and gave it another try. Again, I had to experiment a little with the optimum volume level where the squelch effect kind of matched my spoken voice. Here the solution was placement of the mic on my throat as that greatly affected my voice volume. Once I found the sweet spot, I knew I was in business. Now everyone's mileage will vary but for me, I think I found my microphone solution and will try it this weekend at two local Golden Gate Garrison troops and provide additional information. Thanks for your interest.

If you wish to find out more about a Vader costume head to the Sith Lord Detachment https://www.501stsithlords.com/

Hi John, Looking forward to seeing your progress

Looking really good mate. Good luck with your submission

Hello Colin, thanks for your Centurion submission!!!

Nice work good luck with approval

Hi Colin, Great to see your Centurion submission so soon !! I'll be with you shortly sir.

I wouldn’t worry about what the count of Vader’s there are or who wants you to be what character. You do what YOU want to do. It’s your hobby, costume, money and blood sweat and tears! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to add another UK option for commission builds.... https://www.facebook.com/TrooperStuff/ These guys use RWA parts to create commission builds, and RWA make all of their armour parts in both standard size and XL (if you're tall or chunky, or both). RWA is very popular in the UK Garrison because of its good quality, and Ross gives excellent customer service. Whichever supplier you go with, however much research you do here (or elsewhere), always have a conversation with the supplier letting them know your dimensions. Most of the independent suppliers will be more than happy to have that conversation.

There wasn't really much additional bend. It felt like the normal amount. I did think of the overcorrection and tried that, but still no difference. Maybe I will boil water and just try pouring it over the pieces? Thanks, M

Sanded the bondo on the top t-track and screws

Hey Spike, I see that you created another thread over here, and this is a good place to keep a running log of any questions you have as you go through your journey to joining and becoming a Stormtrooper. I would definitely recommend checking out the links provided to you previously in the other threads, and then coming back here to ask questions specific to your build, and we'll do the best we can to help. I also highly recommend taking your time to type out clear and concise questions and information so we can know what you mean and how best to help you. It looks like you're asking what would be the easiest way to purchase ready to go, complete armor so you can start trooping - I love the enthusiasm and will do my best to help, but there is no 'one-size-fits-all' answer. There are a handful of makers that can build custom armor for you on commission, but which one would work best will depend on you personally. What is your height/weight/frame looking like? If you're a bigger guy, I would consider AM armor (also out of Florida), or perhaps an RS Props commission out of the UK if you're closer to 'standard' stormtrooper size. Commissioning will always run you significantly more than building your own, but can be easier if you do not have prior costuming experience. *Update: I believe I saw in the other thread that you are 6' 5" and 300lbs with size 16 boots? That will admittedly be a bit of a challenge, but not impossible, pending your shape. I would skip RS then and look closely at AM, RWA, and Panda-MOD (formerly RT-MOD), and ensure that whoever builds your armor has your dimensions handy. Those makers are built a little bigger and are more friendly to a larger trooper. I am not certain Imperial Boots will carry your size, so you're probably looking at having Gio from Crow Props make you custom boots. Hope that info helps get the wheels spinning as well. I would use the forum search function and the links previously provided to look into both of those options, then come back with questions and we'll do our best to help! Good luck!

Cool thnx will pm you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hit me up am in Sacramento we have a build party coming up soon. Could meet some of the CCG fam and maybe get some insight on what direction you want to go in.

D ring info added.

About the D-Ring of the F11D(I would add a couple of details): - D-Ring(rectangular) shall be present on the rear end cap. D-Ring and the mount painted white.

Glad I found this thread on throat microphones, I started researching these last week. I found that the TK helmet mounted speakers did not have sufficient throw for my liking and coupled with the feedback being generated by my iComm and amp both mounted in the helmet pushed me towards a chest mounted solution. I mounted an old Aker and iComm with velcro behind my chest, matching that up to the Aker headset again provided too much feedback once again. After reading this thread I have ordered the following: Dual Transponder Throat Microphone - 3.5mm (1/8") Connector - XVTM822D-D35 Question for other troopers that have used this throat mic, how did you loom the cable which drops down the rear of the neck, do you loop it over your shoulder or run it under your arm? In the meantime while I wait for this to be delivered to Australia, I have order the below to get my comms up and running. Headset with Throat Microphone

I realize that. Misunderstood that it wasn’t intended to be my actual advice to him, but my opinion on what I’d like to do. Sorry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just with the helmet should we also include Helmet The clip greeblies must be the correct TLJ version and do not completely fill the recess areas (as they are shorter than TFA) Not sure how far you want to go with blaster details, there are a few differences, cocking lever either side, also slot, end cap has a slightly different tapper. F-11D Blaster Blaster may be scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. · Details to be painted black, white and silver per reference photos. Blaster may have a picatinny rail on right side of barrel Blaster may have a sling attached OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Rear sight is painted black D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap and painted white 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Working lights and working front torch are required. Front handle must be movable Blaster must have a picatinny rail on front side of barrel (majority have this detail) F-11D Blaster Rifle (Heavy) Blaster may be scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Similar to standard F-11D Blaster with extended stock attached. Details to be painted black, white and silver per reference photos. Blaster may have a picatinny rail on right side of barrel OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Rear sight is painted white 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Working lights and working front torch are required. Front handle must be movable Blaster must have a picatinny rail on front side of barrel Riot Baton The baton has a white base with two black triangles on both sides, a silver pommel, black side grips, and a silver handle perpendicular to the base. The end of the base has an extension roughly 1 foot long with 5 silver bands equally spaced apart. There is a black strip running down the center of both sides of the extension. At the end of the extension, there are two white half cylinder arms each with 5 silver bands equally spaced apart. The end of the half-cylinders are angled at roughly 45 degrees. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): 3-D printed riot baton can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Riot shield and riot baton must both be present. Pauldron, backpack, ammo pouches and ammo vest shall not be worn with riot baton/riot shield combination. Baton should have working lights, down length of the both sides of the barrel and top of rear housing, center of the black triangle area Electroprod Blaster may be scratch-built or 3D printed. Details to be painted black, white and silver per reference photos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is a small tube which runs from halfway of the shaft to head. 3-D printed electroprods can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Electroprod must have working lights, rows of red in top silver housing and blue in end prongs.

I agree that the description of the center detail isn't great. I had to read it a couple of times to understand it myself. We need a better description for it, perhaps a few more words can help. "The top center of the chest plate has a recessed section. The upward facing surface and sides of this have black details which can be painted or decals."

Yes I’ve spoken with [mention]ukswrath [/mention]about reaching out to members but never heard back. I’ve been slowly plodding along with my kit, and I know members are busy with their own stuff… but it’s hard to keep motivated when you can’t socialize with anyone local or go to events because you don’t know when they’ll be there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I must also agree, JR's post is spot on. One thing you will learn by spending time on our forums is the fact we have a lot of members who are very eager to help. We offer the best advice available, have the largest resource for Stormtroopers anywhere on the internet period. If a stormtrooper is where you wish to start your journey into white armour, 501st or otherwise, then we have your back. It has been mentioned already that research is the key, and that is 100% correct. In fact when you think about it, that serves for any hobby or sport a person wishes to look into. There is far too much information to fit in any one post, and it's too easy to lose that mass of info we have in a Social media platform so the forum is to this day still the best place to spend your time learning. Become educated, make the right decision for you, and let your journey into this awesome hobby begin. Best of luck with it Spike.

I can understand that the hobby is really intimidating when you first join FISD, and when I was much younger, I felt the same as you. To the point I *gasp* bought ebay armor because “what does it matter? Armor is armor!” sure enough, I opened the box and realized just what I got myself into. Between poorly made parts, tons of inaccuracies, and just in general, terrible part quality. Thankfully I was able to return the armor for a full refund. Didn’t sign back onto the forums for a long while since I felt so discouraged. Then I decided to go to the page Gmrhodes posted and ended up making that my home page for a bit. Weeks go by as I started to really study the different armors to figure out which one was best for me, between quality, durability, and accurateness. I started reading other people’s build threads to get a better idea of what I can expect. I got in contact with my local garrison and they arranged to have dinner with me in just the span of a few weeks! All for a total stranger no less, but they were excited to meet a possible future trooper! Eventually I settled on an Armor Master 4.5 kit. A kit that costed twice as much as the 400 USD ebay armor I got! And let me tell you, I did not regret it. All the research payed off and I was able to get help from everyone on the forums. Not only that, but one of the troopers at the dinner turns out to live just a few minutes from my place and offered me to work on my armor in his basement. He basically was a guiding hand helping me every step on the way and was the one who helped me take my submission photos. What you get for joining the 501st is finding a second family as it turns out lol. what sets the 501st apart from other costuming groups is the fact that we strive for movie accuracy, to aim for a level of authenticity that even Lucasfilm even recognizes. That’s not to say that there aren’t other costuming groups of similar standards, it’s just that in a lot of ways, the 501st is the gold standard. I suppose at the end of the day, you will need to ask yourself why you want the stormtrooper armor. If you want to dress up as a stormtrooper from time to time, it is perfectly fine to do so without the strict guidelines of the 501st. However, if you want to go the extra mile and be part of a group that helps others and has a lasting impact both to star wars and her fans, then maybe this is the place you want to be. Sorry for the long post, but I think it will give you a better idea of “why we are the way we are”. The 501st isn’t for everyone, but unlike Yoda, we are certainly open to people who at least try.

May not have been hot enough, was there any bend to them once heated. You also need to bend more than required as when cooled they will relax a little.

I'm starting to think that the cap extension difference occurred based on how far the inner tube was inserted into the carriage on the TD's. They are clearly two separate parts, well 3 if you include the back plate. Also after reviewing TroS yet again, 90% of the troopers seen have the narrow TLJ style COD piece reinforcing the fact this is the most common used by far and that is also similar to the numbers seen in TLJ. Therefore this is the cod to be used for both those CRL's without a doubt. TFA parts were an anomaly and most probably because they required more armour for a couple of scenes. The exception and not the norm.

OK, I normally work behind the camera at work so please excuse the unflattering single camera angle. To answer Dizzy's question about feedback. I don't get any unless the speaker is turned and faced directly at my throat. However with normal positioning of the throat mic and with my Acker / iComm mounted behind my chest armor, I had the amp at 100% (this was off camera) with only a tiny hint of feedback. So I would say this works well in terms of controlling feedback. Plus it does NOT pick up any breathing. I just wish the iComm squelch effect level was user adjustable, but that is a different story. Personally, I like the sound quality from the headset mic better but after having to fumble with the mic position relative to my mouth by grabbing the end of the headset with my lips and twisting it into position inside the helmet and then not sure if it is correct or not was kind of frustrating while trooping. I couldn't make the youtube embedding code work here so here is the link instead to the video. So without further delay... http://youtu.be/KWtsmFSF0Xg I am scheduled for two troops this weekend and I will provide an update of my results. Of course while filming the video, I received in the mail, a promising self-contained battery powered, 2.4ghz wireless point to point set up that would work for those who are still interested in using a headset mic and perhaps not satisfied with the Memorex wireless solution. The transmitter/receiver units are about the size of two match stick boxes side by side each and accept a normal 3.5mm stereo male plug for input/output. Range is up to 20 feet. I'm thinking this may work for someone to remotely control sound pumped through the Acker's line in port or two way scripted or adlib conversation Stay tuned for my testing of this unit.

Nice post Adam. Giving the space limitation on my new bucket I may be forced to change my voice input method. Great tips here. Let us know how the trial and error goes.