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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/2021 in all areas
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Aw - many thanks, Jesse. I'm too deep into the rabbit hole to get out now!2 points
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Time for another update! A suit is never really "done", right? So I have officially submitted to my GML as of last Saturday the 14th, but there were still a couple upgrades that I wanted to make before considering submitting for EIB - the biggest among being the fit of the posterior armor. I read through @yoshix's thread again (I should have paid more attention to it the first time around...) and decided to cut my posterior armor the same way he did. My fiancé was kind enough to let me know that a higher, cheeky bikini cut is much more in vogue at the moment (ha), and it also matches the reference material better, so I cut about 3/4" off the top, and almost 1" off the sides and bottom of the posterior with my Dremel cutoff wheel, then sanded the edges back to smooth before brushing on some gloss white by hand. I'm much happier with it and hopefully everything sits better the next time I suit up. If I haven't mentioned this previously, I really wish I would have taken the time to fit everything better, even going as far as strapping everything, BEFORE PAINT. If I had one piece of advice for anyone building one of these suits, it's that. Jim actually crafts them so that most of the pieces (maybe not the shins/forearms as much) can fit a wide range of troopers, and the posterior is probably intentionally a bit oversized if you're a "standard" sized person like I generally am, so I really should have trimmed it from the get-go. Live and learn. I also wanted to replace the tube vent backing material - I admittedly submitted with pieces of blue painter's tape behind the tube vent cutouts. @TK 14166/Matt was kind enough to send me a piece of the same blue material he used on his build, which I am super grateful for, so we can match when we troop together! I trimmed a couple of pieces to fit, then used some more 3M VHB tape to secure it in place. That stuff is tricky to work with because it's so sticky, but does a great job. I tried to push it a bit INTO the vents instead of taut so there was little gap. It probably isn't super noticeable, but I'm way happier with it! Hopefully these little fixes help and my approval (or feedback) comes back in the next week or so, then I'll be over to the EIB thread soon! Thanks for reading!2 points
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In the last update the brown MUJI box got added to the 'utility belt' and I thought about what it could be for. A red cross came in my mind but we all know there is no 'First Aid' in the Star Wars Universe – there is Bacta. That made me think of something else - and that belt looked so empty with nothing else attached to it… Looks okay, maybe I change it later because the canister wobbles a little and the wires can be seen... In the opening post I mentioned gaps between face plate and blast shield. These needed to get filled. Did that with some black foam - plus something to hide the foam… The original plan was to have cable ties also on the rear ends of the flashlights. But they perfectly fit between the ear caps and the blast shield, additional cable ties aren't needed for that display piece. List of modifications so far: 1 - Blast Shield 2 - Black Interior 3 - Two-tone paint job 4 - Antenna and radio 5 - Utility belt 6 - Universal supply box 7 - Bacta canister 8 - Helmet flashlights Next update comes in one week. Thank you for reading.2 points
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Trooper Info: Forum name: Starkiller_2021 Legion ID: 22021 Garrison: Spanish Garrison Mandatory Information: ___ Armor Maker: Armour Factory Props ___ Helmet Maker: Armour Factory Props ___ Blaster Maker: Armour Factory Props Optional information: ___ Full name: Guillermo Chicón Lorente ___ Height/weight: 1,82 m/85 kg ___ Boot maker: Armour Factory Props ___ Canvas belt supplier: Armour Factory Props ___ Hand guard supplier: Armour Factory Props ___ Holster maker: Armour Factory Props EIB Approval Full Body 1. ___ Front (Arms flat by side, no weapon) 2. ___ Back (Arms flat by side) 3. ___ Left side (Arms raised) 4. ___ Right side (Arms raised) 5. ___ Left side detail (arms raised) 6. ___ Right side detail (arms raised) Armor Details 7. ___ Cod and posterior plate connections showing rivet/snaps (exterior) 8. ___ Shoulder bridges- Front/rear/sides 9. ___ Thigh ammo pack connections (interior and exterior, left and right sides) 10. ___ Sniper knee plate (left and right sides) 11. ___ Wrist openings 12. ___ Abdomen button plates (close-up) 13. ___ Posterior plate/kidney connection (back and/or front) Helmet Details 14. ___ Front 15. ___ Left side 16. ___ Right side 17. ___ Rear 18. ___ Close-up of Hovi tips 19. ___ S-trim (side view) 20. ___ Ear screws (close up, left, right and bottom). Accessories 21. ___ TD (Thermal Detonator) front and rear showing screw type 22. ___ Hand guards bent showing flexibility 23. ___ Holster attachment 24. ___ ABS/canvas belt (rear, showing drop boxes) 25. ___ Boots (tops and sides) BLASTER 26. ___ Left side 27. ___ Right side 28. ___ Rear (showing D-ring)1 point
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Hi Jim, Thank you for your patience Trooper. You have made a great improvement with your armor fixes, it looks much better. As you may know, Centurion Level is all about details and after discussing with the D.O. team, sadly there are some details that need to be addressed before we can get the Centurion Badge under your name. let see: The vocoder looks almost perfect, but it is necessary to refine some areas, indicated in yellow . This is an easy fix with a short painting session. Reference images As you can see. your neck seal rides passing the shoulder straps, one possible solution could be to trim it down as shown bellow: When present, Sweep on the sides of the shoulder bells is normally forward not backwards Your right bicep seems to be lower than the left one, looks like a simple strapping adjustment . Reference Images Your right forearm looks like being upside down, curve is at the top . You may want to check both forearms to confirm the correct position. Reference Images Unfortunately you over trimmed the sides of your large ab-button plate. It must have a flat area surrounding it so will need to be fixed or replaced for Level 3. Reference Images A possible fix for this issue could be to add a piece of ABS plastic behind the plate and seal with abs paste and make some sanding. It seems like your back plate is overlapping the kidney armor. Strapping between the chest plate and backplate could be tighter, appears loose in the second image, this would help bring the backplate in and up off of his kidney plate. CRL L3: Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Reference Images by the other hand, you may want to check out the Ab/Kidney rivets to assure that they're into the correct position. Crl L3: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. A single visible seam line is present. Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. Also, You may want to cut down the shoulder strap rear large tabs , for more accuracy . Reference Images Looking to the right side of your Ab section, Ab plate is overlapping the kidney armor. Adjusting the straping may solve this issue. Moving down to your TD, the clips are sticking out under belt, also the control panel should be rotated to see the O detail, and sit central (or higher) on the belt, it's sitting quite low and too much clip showing at top Reference Images Also with your TD, you may want to check the dimensions, it does appear quite long, the gaps between the panel and end caps differ a bit. Finally, looking at your E11 Blaster , a little weather looks nice, The T-tracks and grips on must not contain any "weathering" (silver color) as the screen used ones . A few shots of black spray paint will fix it. Easy ! Reference Images Following detail is not a L3 blocker but all the D.O. team is curious about the Shoulder Bells additional horizontal straps on the fronts and backs of the shoulder bell interiors you have. We wondered if you could need some help with this particular armor section? . Certainly , it looks like a lot of work ahead but we are confident you can deal skillfully with all of them. Let us know if you need some assistance.1 point
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Hola Guillermo! Good to see your application. There are a couple changes that will be needed before continuing with your approval. First, thanks for posting new photos. However, your shoulder bells are sitting too far away in the front (they look fine from the rear). It might be a dressing issue, or you might need to shorten the strapping that is holding the shoulder bells on in order to bring the tops in closer. There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. Reference Image: Next, I know you're struggling with the ab/kidney gap, but it's still larger than we'd like to see for Centurion, so we're asking you to try to reduce it furtaher. The gaps in the full-body photos look better than the closeups, so again it might be a dressing issue before you take your photos. Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Reference Images: Finally, I think you have corrected it, but can you post new close-up photos of the backs of your thigh armor to confirm that you've filled the gaps? Thanks!1 point
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Helmet is looking good dude!! Now we’re officially uniform!1 point
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Many thanks for your kind comments, Brian. Glad to hear you like it so far. Ha what a funny coincidence, because I am working on aurebesh letterings right now. You will see the result in the next update, coming on Friday.1 point
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Just when I thought you were winding down on this helmet you go and add more amazing things to it. The flashlights take the cake. This gives the helmet a more search & rescue/First aid/special Op feel. If you add lights to props you have my full attention. As a kid I loved any toys that lit up. The mini bacta tube idea is super. I think a small addition of some aurebesh text on the tank or box would look cool too. Just an idea.1 point
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Wow Jonathon, just wow. Beautiful clean presentation. Good luck but I don't think you will need it.1 point
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More work done, here is the progress. And then things got weird... Next update probably comes next Friday. List of modifications so far: 1 - Blast Shield 2 - Black Interior 3 - Two-tone paint job 4 - Antenna and radio 5 - Utility belt 6 - Universal supply box Have a nice weekend.1 point
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yup. still screwed. looks like they are only pushing star trek shucks too.....1 point